FlashVAPE
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
OF
Well-Known Member
Indeed it is! Love the little guy...I had a hard time with running it through a bubbler until I finally mastered my technique. You are on the right path, wise one.
Keep dropping them bread crumbs....right behind ya, boss.
Thanks for the tip. It's making me rethink glass.
OF
OK, have had my first night last night to give a small test drive. Doing the instructions gets a small hit but really not what I was hoping. Now I know I'm in training and have never experienced the MFLB so hard to judge what I should expect. After a few small puffs I tried a bit more. Started to find the counting and such very hmmm, frustrating. Noticed the heat would start pittering out faster then expected and the batteries get very hot quite quickly.
This really brought back memories of the start up troubles I had with the T1 over a year ago. I managed to cook my T1 batteries in no time and wrote it off to over heating because of the learning and heightened frustration levels. So stopped driving the batteries into overheat mode.
Well crap, that left me with no batteries and a little put down. You know me, patience not in my dictionary. Since was given some confidence that it could take the 3.7 volt but hard to control and the screen markings were normal......out come my reserves.
First off, my AW 3100 protected Li-ions would not even fire up. Light would flick on only. Meaning the protection on the battery was kicking in doing its job. Made me scratch my head as to the power requirement. Will get to that later.
Next up, EFest 1500 V1 IMR. Holly snappin arse holes batman. Now that's what the doctor ordered.
My prescription for sure. Not for everyone because you can miss the target big time. BUT, for those who want to ride the edge and get huge clouds as a pay off, might be interested here.
Start off holding switch for 2 seconds starting to draw slowly feeling for heat/flavour with tongue. Release switch for 1 second and back on for 1-2 seconds. Keep repeating and the heat/flavour builds. Change the duty cycle (off/on ratio) as needed but don't go over 2 seconds on at a time. As the load get drier the pulse will need to be quicker and towards the end the combustion risk gets higher.
I checked on the battery from time to time and it never got that hot. No where near the LiPo4s.
Completed 2 bowls on the one battery before battery temperature started getting questionably warm.
I pulled it out and put in my ecig to find it still good to go.
Next a MNKE 1500 IMR
Behaved much the same as the EFest but noticed the battery would get a little hotter.??
At this point I was running out of consciousness. Good thing I made notes...LOL mind you hard to read.
So I basically like using in the 3.7 volt mode if the unit and switch can take it. Here is a pic of my screens today after last nights testing. Some of the black spots have changed to white.
Now I know it looks ugly but really think it's just colouration and the actually ss is not loosing it's integrity. At least I hope not. But hey, like I said before best to find this stuff out now so others can benefit.
Flash, please say it's OK....
And can the button take the repeated abuse?
Now to the power of this puppy and how it reminds me of the T1. I suspected the power consumption must be huge as to the battery temperatures and short life. The fact that the protected Li-ion protection kicked in had me wonder as they work fine with a 1 ohm load. While I had it apart I measured the SS from the conductive rods. It measured .5 ohm and flicked to .4 a couple times. Therefore let's say .5 ohm. Doing the math at 3 volts we're talking around 18 watts or 6 amps. Running this beast at 3.7 volts pushes it to close to 28 watts or 7.4 amps. WOW.
In conclusion I still have to master the use with factory 3 volts batteries so too early to comment too much. Factory suggested method works well for smaller wispy tokes.
OTOH, using in 3.7 volt IMR mode rocks......if unit and button can take it.
IMR 1500 cells seem to work and last longer then factory. Shorter learning curve for large clouds. Batteries do not cook as easily. If going too far into discharge might get very hot very fast so particular attention should be paid to the battery temperature. (from experience in other device)
One last thought, that pic Pak posted of the top screen starting to shred from the ceramic. I'm betting that happens while trying to unscrew the window piece. Caught myself when unscrewing myself, thinking I should remove from bowl first, Sure enough noticed that while holding it still grinds as you fight with the top. Would be good practice to always remove the cap from bowl when taking the glass off. Thanks for that warning pic Pak.
All in all, a fun product for sure and glad I got it.
A PA would make it the cat's meow.
Pipes
This really brought back memories of the start up troubles I had with the T1 over a year ago. I managed to cook my T1 batteries in no time and wrote it off to over heating because of the learning and heightened frustration levels. So stopped driving the batteries into overheat mode.
Well crap, that left me with no batteries and a little put down. You know me, patience not in my dictionary. Since was given some confidence that it could take the 3.7 volt but hard to control and the screen markings were normal......out come my reserves.
First off, my AW 3100 protected Li-ions would not even fire up. Light would flick on only. Meaning the protection on the battery was kicking in doing its job. Made me scratch my head as to the power requirement. Will get to that later.
Next up, EFest 1500 V1 IMR. Holly snappin arse holes batman. Now that's what the doctor ordered.
My prescription for sure. Not for everyone because you can miss the target big time. BUT, for those who want to ride the edge and get huge clouds as a pay off, might be interested here.
Start off holding switch for 2 seconds starting to draw slowly feeling for heat/flavour with tongue. Release switch for 1 second and back on for 1-2 seconds. Keep repeating and the heat/flavour builds. Change the duty cycle (off/on ratio) as needed but don't go over 2 seconds on at a time. As the load get drier the pulse will need to be quicker and towards the end the combustion risk gets higher.
I checked on the battery from time to time and it never got that hot. No where near the LiPo4s.
Completed 2 bowls on the one battery before battery temperature started getting questionably warm.
I pulled it out and put in my ecig to find it still good to go.
Next a MNKE 1500 IMR
Behaved much the same as the EFest but noticed the battery would get a little hotter.??
At this point I was running out of consciousness. Good thing I made notes...LOL mind you hard to read.
So I basically like using in the 3.7 volt mode if the unit and switch can take it. Here is a pic of my screens today after last nights testing. Some of the black spots have changed to white.
Now I know it looks ugly but really think it's just colouration and the actually ss is not loosing it's integrity. At least I hope not. But hey, like I said before best to find this stuff out now so others can benefit.
Flash, please say it's OK....
And can the button take the repeated abuse?Now to the power of this puppy and how it reminds me of the T1. I suspected the power consumption must be huge as to the battery temperatures and short life. The fact that the protected Li-ion protection kicked in had me wonder as they work fine with a 1 ohm load. While I had it apart I measured the SS from the conductive rods. It measured .5 ohm and flicked to .4 a couple times. Therefore let's say .5 ohm. Doing the math at 3 volts we're talking around 18 watts or 6 amps. Running this beast at 3.7 volts pushes it to close to 28 watts or 7.4 amps. WOW.
In conclusion I still have to master the use with factory 3 volts batteries so too early to comment too much. Factory suggested method works well for smaller wispy tokes.
OTOH, using in 3.7 volt IMR mode rocks......if unit and button can take it.
IMR 1500 cells seem to work and last longer then factory. Shorter learning curve for large clouds. Batteries do not cook as easily. If going too far into discharge might get very hot very fast so particular attention should be paid to the battery temperature. (from experience in other device)
One last thought, that pic Pak posted of the top screen starting to shred from the ceramic. I'm betting that happens while trying to unscrew the window piece. Caught myself when unscrewing myself, thinking I should remove from bowl first, Sure enough noticed that while holding it still grinds as you fight with the top. Would be good practice to always remove the cap from bowl when taking the glass off. Thanks for that warning pic Pak.
All in all, a fun product for sure and glad I got it.
A PA would make it the cat's meow.
Pipes
You're welcome if it helped, but your theory doesn't explain the shredding, because I've never unscrewed the top of the swivel cap while it was on the FV. I've never unscrewed the top of the heater at all.
I don't think your screen has suffered at all—yet. My worry is that too many combustion incidents might cause soot buildup that clogs the bottom screen. Carbon is a bitch to get rid of.
Yeah, I was checking out what unscrewed and found it comes off quite easy. The ceramic top just pulls straight out and has 2 guide pins so easy to put back. Never touched the heater screen at all while open. Just measured the resistance along the side rails. Would make it easy to clean the ceramic cylinder though.
Actually, I combusted less with the 3.7 volt except finding out about going shorter on time (faster pulsing) as load dries.
Hopefully will get self trained, looking good so far.
And yes, thanks for the heads up pic Pak, does make a difference of the care free twisting.
Pipes
OK, have had my first night last night to give a small test drive. Doing the instructions gets a small hit but really not what I was hoping. Now I know I'm in training and have never experienced the MFLB so hard to judge what I should expect. After a few small puffs I tried a bit more. Started to find the counting and such very hmmm, frustrating. Noticed the heat would start pittering out faster then expected and the batteries get very hot quite quickly.
This really brought back memories of the start up troubles I had with the T1 over a year ago. I managed to cook my T1 batteries in no time and wrote it off to over heating because of the learning and heightened frustration levels. So stopped driving the batteries into overheat mode.
Well crap, that left me with no batteries and a little put down. You know me, patience not in my dictionary. Since was given some confidence that it could take the 3.7 volt but hard to control and the screen markings were normal......out come my reserves.
First off, my AW 3100 protected Li-ions would not even fire up. Light would flick on only. Meaning the protection on the battery was kicking in doing its job. Made me scratch my head as to the power requirement. Will get to that later.
Next up, EFest 1500 V1 IMR. Holly snappin arse holes batman. Now that's what the doctor ordered.
My prescription for sure. Not for everyone because you can miss the target big time. BUT, for those who want to ride the edge and get huge clouds as a pay off, might be interested here.
Start off holding switch for 2 seconds starting to draw slowly feeling for heat/flavour with tongue. Release switch for 1 second and back on for 1-2 seconds. Keep repeating and the heat/flavour builds. Change the duty cycle (off/on ratio) as needed but don't go over 2 seconds on at a time. As the load get drier the pulse will need to be quicker and towards the end the combustion risk gets higher.
I checked on the battery from time to time and it never got that hot. No where near the LiPo4s.
Completed 2 bowls on the one battery before battery temperature started getting questionably warm.
I pulled it out and put in my ecig to find it still good to go.
Next a MNKE 1500 IMR
Behaved much the same as the EFest but noticed the battery would get a little hotter.??
At this point I was running out of consciousness. Good thing I made notes...LOL mind you hard to read.
So I basically like using in the 3.7 volt mode if the unit and switch can take it. Here is a pic of my screens today after last nights testing. Some of the black spots have changed to white.
Now I know it looks ugly but really think it's just colouration and the actually ss is not loosing it's integrity. At least I hope not. But hey, like I said before best to find this stuff out now so others can benefit.
Flash, please say it's OK....
Now to the power of this puppy and how it reminds me of the T1. I suspected the power consumption must be huge as to the battery temperatures and short life. The fact that the protected Li-ion protection kicked in had me wonder as they work fine with a 1 ohm load. While I had it apart I measured the SS from the conductive rods. It measured .5 ohm and flicked to .4 a couple times. Therefore let's say .5 ohm. Doing the math at 3 volts we're talking around 18 watts or 6 amps. Running this beast at 3.7 volts pushes it to close to 28 watts or 7.4 amps. WOW.
In conclusion I still have to master the use with factory 3 volts batteries so too early to comment too much. Factory suggested method works well for smaller wispy tokes.
OTOH, using in 3.7 volt IMR mode rocks......if unit and button can take it.
IMR 1500 cells seem to work and last longer then factory. Shorter learning curve for large clouds. Batteries do not cook as easily. If going too far into discharge might get very hot very fast so particular attention should be paid to the battery temperature. (from experience in other device)
One last thought, that pic Pak posted of the top screen starting to shred from the ceramic. I'm betting that happens while trying to unscrew the window piece. Caught myself when unscrewing myself, thinking I should remove from bowl first, Sure enough noticed that while holding it still grinds as you fight with the top. Would be good practice to always remove the cap from bowl when taking the glass off. Thanks for that warning pic Pak.
All in all, a fun product for sure and glad I got it.
A PA would make it the cat's meow.
Pipes
... you got nothing to worry about... discoloration is normal with use, and does no damage to the FV. However, please do not open up the FV the same way Pipes did folks, you can do some real damage in the process. It is not necessary for cleaning, NOT recommended.
...the screen and all electricals can be safely used with 3.7v high drain cells... so have at it if you want. However, I must state again, it is not recommended to use 3.7v cells in the FV with the original setup as the average user will more likely burn the load in a flash. If you find your method or drawing works well on 3.7v, there is no reason why it will not work on 3.2v, with a little adjustment to timing, draw speed, etc. Of course, 3.2v is not the same performance as 3.7v for sure... but for alot of users, it will make the FV even harder to control (with the original setup, designed for use with the 3.2v cell). As mentioned earlier, are working on a mod that will be released in around 4-6 weeks that will allow safe application of 3.7v high drain cells in the FV. It will be in the form of an add-on kit, and will include 3.7v cells. For the time being, its probably best for most users to master the usage of the FV on the more gentle 3.2v cell, as it will be much easier to toy with 3.7v power later with the release of our mod.
Thanks Flash, love the news. I should have added that stripping down is not a normal thing to do, but I'm not a normal guy. Have a terrible habit of wanting to know what makes things tic. I can see once apart that the exposed ss heating element is very vulnerable without the top ceramic locking it down.
I must say that this is put together very sturdy and well thought out. Parts go together very nicely and very accurate machining. High quality materials all the way.
Just curious though, what is the ss mesh gauge? 400 or finer?
It's nice to know that I'm not just burning this unit up. I like the idea of the upcoming mod.
Pipes
I must say that this is put together very sturdy and well thought out. Parts go together very nicely and very accurate machining. High quality materials all the way.
Just curious though, what is the ss mesh gauge? 400 or finer?
It's nice to know that I'm not just burning this unit up. I like the idea of the upcoming mod.
Pipes
OF
Well-Known Member
Kinda late with that second part, aren't you? Better late than never I guess?
I guess it's fair to say that bit of news doesn't surprise some of us as much as others? Still an important step in your returning to fit society.....we're proud of you, Pipes!
OF
Can you be a little more specific in terms of what you mean by efficiency so that your question can be answered more precisely?
From now on, I'll watch the postman !
I don't saw the postman today.... but he lets me a paquet from Canada in my letterbox !!!
I HAVE IT IN MY HANDS !!!..... I just open the box and I'm reading the instructions Do I need to clean it or make a dry burn before the first use ?
I don't saw the postman today.... but he lets me a paquet from Canada in my letterbox !!!
Do I need to clean it or make a dry burn before the first use ?
no need.. you can start right away, however, you may wish to give the battery a full charge before you start
enjoy!!Thanks for the reply. efficiency as in ratio of subjective highness level achieved to amount used..
Thank you
Yes, when you insert the battery, the LED on charger will turn RED when charging, and when finished charging, the LED indicator will turn GREEN.I guess the charger light turns green when battery is charged ?
Great vape in the hand, I can feel the quality
I guess the charger light turns green when battery is charged ?
Great vape in the hand, I can feel the quality
About the charger: when I got my FV I carelessly inserted the battery in the charger upside down (positive pole on the spring) without noticing. I was puzzled when I looked up a few minutes later and the light was already green. Since the other battery needed a lot of time to charge, I was suspicious. I put my "newly charged" battery in and sure enough, the light went dim and faded out immediately. I put the battery back on the charger and my stomach churned when it lit up green. So... bad battery or bad charger? Then I noticed I'd put the battery in upside down (again). Flipped it, light went red, and a couple of hours later green again. Summary: battery
, charger , pakalolo* 
.* The warranty has expired on pakalolo.
JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
They shipped on Sunday, I received on Thurs, pretty good imo!
I think 3.2v has enough power, it's just you have to charge the batteries after each bowl because the next bowl on the same battery will have less voltage and less heat and it throws off everything you think you know about counting...
Add in the fact that as the bowl vapes you have to reduce the heat times and you can see it's hard enough just to use, if your a heavy user and like that thick vape, without having to worry about a low battery making you question your own technique.
I think 3.2v has enough power, it's just you have to charge the batteries after each bowl because the next bowl on the same battery will have less voltage and less heat and it throws off everything you think you know about counting...
Add in the fact that as the bowl vapes you have to reduce the heat times and you can see it's hard enough just to use, if your a heavy user and like that thick vape, without having to worry about a low battery making you question your own technique.