Vitolo

Vaporist
Owners of colored M's, how do you deal with maintaining the tips and caps once they start to get gunked up and plated black with carbon?
There should never be any carbon, unless the DynaVap is combusted in repeatedly.
The color doesn't go away or fade.
I take it apart, and throw all parts except gaskets in a glass of 91% Iso.
I have been using this colored "M" since 2021.
No fading, no carbon, it always tastes fresh.
 
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Tellus

Human (H. sapiens x H. neanderthalensis)
Is that the Grav Helix Chilum? Do you think it could cool ither 8mm vapes like the Tempest?
It's similar. It's the new Dynavap, the H2. The stem's made by American Helix Glass.
Seems like the H2 is the complete setup. With helix tip and glass stem. But stem is available by itself and looks like dynavap just calling it the American Helix Glass Stem.. :)

 

budski

cantre member
pro tip' buy the 15% off gift card 1st, then use it on sale Items!
algorithms or divine providence, I stupidly lost my stash bag with hyperwynd:bang: and a couple burl/helix, so merry xmas to me I guess, as I was settling in to wait for the blue helix and BAM! I get to replace my blue helix and will pickup a sunset too.
I'll miss the hyper body, wish they'd drop the hyper parts.

ps flame never touches my colored caps unless I'm changing the color on purpose.
 
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SmokeyDope

Herbal Engineer
Just got my helix stem and the tip won't stick in at all, very sad. Definitely could use some new O-rings for the tip, they're shot and mushed down after 6 months of hard daily use. Still, hope I didnt get a stem thats a little too large in tolerance the insertion point seems slightly bigger than bb6 or m theres some wiggle room thats for sure. What a shame, ill order some new rings and hope that does the trick :( In the meantime will still try to use and hopefully a bit of resin buildup will make up the difference
 
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Just got my helix stem and the tip won't stick in at all, very sad. Definitely could use some new O-rings for the tip, they're shot and mushed down after 6 months of hard daily use. Still, hope I didnt get a stem thats a little too large in tolerance the insertion point seems slightly bigger than bb6 or m theres some wiggle room thats for sure. What a shame, ill order some new rings and hope that does the trick :( In the meantime will still try to use and hopefully a bit of resin buildup will make up the difference
mine's kind of loose, too. The Helix it came with stays in, but some tips don't. I'll probably just use it as it came; changing o-rings to use various tips sounds unfun. If you don't mind dedicating a tip to it you can get bigger rings for sure or you can wrap a bit of unwaxed floss or thread around the groove and replace the o-ring. It should fit better, and can be adjusted with more or less floss,
 

SmokeyDope

Herbal Engineer
mine's kind of loose, too. The Helix it came with stays in, but some tips don't. I'll probably just use it as it came; changing o-rings to use various tips sounds unfun. If you don't mind dedicating a tip to it you can get bigger rings for sure or you can wrap a bit of unwaxed floss or thread around the groove and replace the o-ring. It should fit better, and can be adjusted with more or less floss,
I only have the m+ tip, guessing its one of the ones that has a harder time staying in. Resisted the urge to get another tip for a long time now, but maybe with the christmas sale going on its a sign to finally cave and get either a m7 or a ti helix tip. I wonder if the 5 fin ti tip with 4 o-rings could stick on better than the helix?

I suppose that another reason they might use titanium tip is because its less dense and doesn't pull itself away from the glass stem against gravity as hard as steel would.
 
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I only have the m+ tip, guessing its one of the ones that has a harder time staying in. Resisted the urge to get another tip for a long time now, but maybe with the christmas sale going on its a sign to finally cave and get either a m7 or a ti helix tip. I wonder if the 5 fin ti tip with 4 o-rings could stick on better than the helix?

I suppose that another reason they might use titanium tip is because its less dense and doesn't pull itself away from the glass stem against gravity as hard as steel would.
I think the tolerances are not as tight as they could be and that fit will vary between individual tips as much as it might between tip types. My impression is that AH erred a bit on the side of caution but not a huge deal since it can be mitigated. If it were sometimes too tight it would be less fixable. But you bring up an interesting point, does one or the other metal expand a lot more with heat?
 

SmokeyDope

Herbal Engineer
Dynavap stainless steel alloy types (taken from George himself on a reddit AMA )
"All parts of the M are 316L. The cap is 304."
Thermal expansion coefficents for steel vs titanium taken from here.
Material / Thermal Expansion Coefficent value
Ti / 4.8 TE
SS316 / 8.8 TE
SS304 / 9.6 TE
I believe that titanium's low coefficient value means it expands less than stainless steel while heated up.

I feel frustrated about the tip not fitting right, but part of the issue is my own o-rings - so I can't blame everything on high tolerance. Like you said, it's a easily mitigated issue; that's a decent silver lining. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
IMG-20240726-192129-HDR.jpg

On the positive side of things, This is my stop-gap solution until I figure out what to do next. I actually really like the experience of combining the BB6 and the helix stem like this. Like, very thoroughly enjoy it. The helix is to the BB6 what the M7 adjustable mouthpiece is to the M; the essential extension I never knew it needed which just completes the setup.

The BB6 stem adds that extra air path and a regular carb for fine tuning the airflow. The helix bubble is just far enough away from my eyes to watch the vapor combine with air and form a vortex tornado-type swirl through the piece - it's fun to watch! A little top heavy on the helix side, but it feels real nice to hold. Great to operate. Now thats a magic wand!:brow:
IMG-20240726-200208-HDR.jpg

Being able to see inside the bubble also helps keep track of how dense your vapor is. I feel that I can get more use out of the half-bowl by making sure to back off the heat when the vapor becomes just visible. If you start hitting before the vapor is fully visible, then cut the heat and hit it long enough for the vapor to go away - this makes for a perfectly satisfying terp-chaser hit.
Doing this over and over can help squeeze many extra cycles out of a half-bowl. I think that adding a low-temperature cap and titanium tip would make this setup an efficiency beast.

Truthfully, though, I have a love for my sole SS M+ tip and trusty captive cap - they've always worked faithfully for me and I know how to work them to get terpy efficient hits all the same. In my experience, intelligent energy application with these two is far more important than any material differences.

To conclude, the glass absolutely does help cool the vapor. The way the air is introduced by the small sharp angled air hole helps mix it really well and adds some precious extra time swirling in the air path before hitting the lungs. It feels nice to hold and the vortex adds nice visual flair as well as a great way to meter the vapor density.
 
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coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Have you tried it with the TA ?

Found some o-rings. I replaced the lower one and the fit is snug.
IMG-9046.jpg
IMG-9048.jpg


Tried it and it actually cools pretty darn well. The first several hits are really nice and as it warms it stays pretty tolerable. The vapor path is short and as you roast through the bowl it gets a little harsher/warmer. I think I'd have to use it more before I recommended it but I can definitely see doing the flavor hits direct and then dropping it into glass to finish up.
 

Radwin Bodnic

Well-Known Member
Found some o-rings. I replaced the lower one and the fit is snug.
IMG-9046.jpg
IMG-9048.jpg


Tried it and it actually cools pretty darn well. The first several hits are really nice and as it warms it stays pretty tolerable. The vapor path is short and as you roast through the bowl it gets a little harsher/warmer. I think I'd have to use it more before I recommended it but I can definitely see doing the flavor hits direct and then dropping it into glass to finish up.
Thanks for testing it !
My TA dedicated stem is actually a very simple one hitter (without carb). The glass restriction in it has a kind of swirling action, but I only take shorter pulls (under 10 sec) so it never really get harsh. (The stem get hot though).

I'm not sure the helix will function properly with shorter pulls. Any thought about it ?

I also like vaping the reclaim in the one hitter by simply heating the glass. Not sure it is really possible with the helix...

I'm kind of interested in the swirling function of the helix but I'm afraid I won't like it as much as the one hitter and it end up collecting dust...
 

zymos

Well-Known Member
Just following up from a page back, I’m a fairly new Woodwynd owner.

There are almost infinite combos in the DV ecosystem and I enjoy reading about everyone’s experiences. I’m pretty simple compared to most folks here, I just want a quality tool that works well.

For me, no matter what type of vape, I’m packing one hitters. I’m looking for all the taste and a satisfying hit in one lungful. Then I dump it, even if there may be more goodies left. It’s backyard produce and I got plenty.

I got my Brute, and, Pow!
That thing gets hot and can easily combust. But waiting just a couple seconds after the click is perfect.

[I wanted to use something other than butane, it just seems really inefficient to ship tiny flammable cans of gas all around. I’m sure assembling batteries, shipping them, and charging them from your wall outlet has plenty of implications too

But most importantly, an induction heater seems to work best. ]

I think even if you twiddle while you torch, the surrounding heat can’t be beat.
(And yeah, that IS a lyric from my new song)
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Is that a 10mm wood pipe? That is exactly what I have been looking for. Where did you find it?
It's a custom 14mm ceramic steamroller. This is where I got it, but he doesn't seem to carry them anymore. Maybe if you asked he'd do it, he was great to work with. It is a fantastic piece, very flavorful and able to cool anything, Anvil to ZX.
 

Kebo1923

Well-Known Member
It's a custom 14mm ceramic steamroller. This is where I got it, but he doesn't seem to carry them anymore. Maybe if you asked he'd do it, he was great to work with. It is a fantastic piece, very flavorful and able to cool anything, Anvil to ZX.
@coolbreeze you are always finding unique stuff. Appreciate the link. I can see how ceramic would cool vapor nicely
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
@coolbreeze you are always finding unique stuff. Appreciate the link. I can see how ceramic would cool vapor nicely
Back in the day most bongs were ceramic along with some plastic ones. Glass was rare because there wasn't boro as available as it is today so everything broke much more easily, In any case, Ceramic share some of the best attributes of glass and cools really well. You don't see a lot of it anymore, but here's a really nice tube that's great for Vongs, ball vapes, etc:

The company I posted above, Ceramic Smokeware, makes a few very, very nice little ceramic dab rigs. At 10mm, they're ready for DVs:
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Back in the day, and that day is the 70s and the 80s, I used one of these for over a decade. It was a simple, reliable and easy to clean water piece and it was all I needed beyond joints and a dugout.
toker-header2.png

How times have changed.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Back in the day, and that day is the 70s and the 80s, I used one of these for over a decade. It was a simple, reliable and easy to clean water piece and it was all I needed beyond joints and a dugout.
toker-header2.png

How times have changed.
I still have 2 or 3 glass bongs from the late 70s-early 80s, but I think I have all but one of my ceramic ones. I've really only had a couple that were plastic but they haven't lasted. I have a gorgeous large glass hookah shaped like a squat flask that had a glass, rose-shaped bowl (that was broken by the store, I never owned that) and each of the hoses had a nicely shaped mouthpiece with a carb, etc. The beaker and a couple MPs survive, but only because a rarely used it.

These kinds of things were more my jam:
501505345_2_e0f41e47-aeb3-463f-a59e-bcc54d25b8ed.jpg

Cool, durable, comfortable, lovely, and perfect for loading one-hitter after one-hitter from the little tray. This would still be perfect for the ZX, for instance, though you'd probably dump the bowl rather than suck it into the water! ; )
 

Octavia

No thoughts, head empty
I still have 2 or 3 glass bongs from the late 70s-early 80s, but I think I have all but one of my ceramic ones. I've really only had a couple that were plastic but they haven't lasted. I have a gorgeous large glass hookah shaped like a squat flask that had a glass, rose-shaped bowl (that was broken by the store, I never owned that) and each of the hoses had a nicely shaped mouthpiece with a carb, etc. The beaker and a couple MPs survive, but only because a rarely used it.

These kinds of things were more my jam:
501505345_2_e0f41e47-aeb3-463f-a59e-bcc54d25b8ed.jpg

Cool, durable, comfortable, lovely, and perfect for loading one-hitter after one-hitter from the little tray. This would still be perfect for the ZX, for instance, though you'd probably dump the bowl rather than suck it into the water! ; )
Do you know what that type of bong is called? I really love that design!
 
Octavia,
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