Not really sure. Thats based of a cryptic insta post.
I don't see anything on Insta from DV....
Not really sure. Thats based of a cryptic insta post.
Its on Georges.I don't see anything on Insta from DV....
Ss cap is harder than ti tip. The ss tip same as the cap . The scratching as you call it is actually marring meaning metal is just moved around not scraped off . Over extreme time it may be possible for a peace to come off but would be a flake not dust !
What happens when "marring" crosses over other marring? How many marrs does it take? How does a file work? What would others call these micro particles? What have other companies done when they crossed this issue? What were peoples stances when this happned in the past? Wolcano? What was that outcome. Lol. Only questions?
I haven't heard of that one before, but if it fails or is unusable just contact them, they'll replace it.need help my 2021 m appears to get part the tip past the crimp and stuck. I took it out of my pocket removed the cap to check if I was a fresh or half spent load was fresh so I heat it click vape click cool down reheated click notice the something seamed different let cool to take cap off and hear we go .it sets in the cap farther than any tip and did be for this cap still clicks the cap has resistance on it cold but spins free when it is clicked .
Has anyone else ever had this happen and if so any advice?
DDave actually sells mesh screens, but I'm not sure if they fit any tighter--https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p86/VapCap_Mesh_Screen_Replacements.htmlDoes anyone know of a screen that fits a little tighter? My Ti tip seems to be somewhat larger ID than it should and doesn't really retain screens. I tried new Ti CCD and new SS CCD. It only holds half decent in the lowest position but I would like to try the middle groove. Maybe there is a mesh SS screen that fits a little snugger?
Just an FYI, but I found that if I cleaned my Ti CCD's with flame, they shrank. They get ISO now like the tips.Does anyone know of a screen that fits a little tighter? My Ti tip seems to be somewhat larger ID than it should and doesn't really retain screens. I tried new Ti CCD and new SS CCD. It only holds half decent in the lowest position but I would like to try the middle groove. Maybe there is a mesh SS screen that fits a little snugger?
I'm the same. Always use a ti 5 fin but since getting the AC, I've been using my 21 ss tip alot more. Last night I started using the 21 ti vong tip and really like that one as well. I feel like the hits are better off the ss but the quicker heat up and cool down time really makes a difference when using the AC.I’m always 100% Ti tips but the Armored cap is working really well with SS. The 2020m is working the best for me. My Armored cap might just live on this xxl stem SS stem with a Simrell Ti spinning mouthpiece.
I think my tip might be out of round and the grooves not cut properly. Some day I might try a mesh screen if I am ordering from somewhere that has them but I am not going to special order any as after what you said I think I am in the same boat. Oh well it still works fine in the lower position for the most part so I will leave it be for now.I’d also like to add that I’ve received two completely out of spec tip and could not except a screen unless it was over sized and a bit custom.
@Bisko bent them in a little with the mouthpiece of their M:Armored cap came today. Very difficult to get on or off my Vong and Omni tips. Easier on older tips but still too tight (other than screwing and unscrewing), and it's thickness does not lend itself to reshaping. Gonna have to figure out how to "uncaptive" it if it has much chance of being used I'm afraid.
Mine seems about avg, maybe slightly quieter. They also seem more spaced apart usually, fwiw.Can someone tell if the armored cap has a louder click than other caps? Since the clicker is on top and outside I'm hoping it is. I often miss the click due to my bad hearing.
The clicker is still on the inside. It’s just a regular captive cap shoved onto a sleeve. My AC has a very weak, unsatisfying, quiet click. My hearing is ok but Ive questioned a few times if it clicked when only half paying attention.Can someone tell if the armored cap has a louder click than other caps? Since the clicker is on top and outside I'm hoping it is. I often miss the click due to my bad hearing.
So with the use of the butt of an M and a needlenose pliers I have been able to slightly reduce the captive bumps, tho very slightly. The thickness of the cap creates a little too much angle for the jaws of the pliers to close on the bump. Using the "DynaGlove" I bought with the cap it is possible to put the cap on and off without removing the tip, but the magnets are still pretty useless. Of course it matters how tightly your stem holds your tip and some combos are not tight enough and the tip will come off. I will keep trying to reduce the captiveness.@Bisko bent them in a little with the mouthpiece of their M:
Dynavap VapCap
I have the FMJ and the armored cap. The armored cap can be used with an (some) induction heater (IH) but is slower to heat upfuckcombustion.com
Seems about the same to me. The clicker is inside the cap as before.Can someone tell if the armored cap has a louder click than other caps? Since the clicker is on top and outside I'm hoping it is. I often miss the click due to my bad hearing.
That sucks. Don't be surprised if Dynavap comes out with "The Reloader" with it's proprietary decapper.Another point that I forgot to mention. The Reload, everyone's favorite Dyna accessory from MadHeaters, is designed to be able to remove even a stubborn cap by having a lip around the magnet that you can slip the crimp into to grab the cap and pull it off. On the Armored cap the crimp is meatier and too big to slip under the lip so even this method of cap removal sadly fails.
To remove my FMJ- wrapped cap I always use a stacked set of like three silicone finger pads that people use for hot glue. They are super cheap and the tip fits right inside (like your finger would) and then you can just pull the cap off. Probably would work great for the armored cap as well.So with the use of the butt of an M and a needlenose pliers I have been able to slightly reduce the captive bumps, tho very slightly. The thickness of the cap creates a little too much angle for the jaws of the pliers to close on the bump. Using the "DynaGlove" I bought with the cap it is possible to put the cap on and off without removing the tip, but the magnets are still pretty useless. Of course it matters how tightly your stem holds your tip and some combos are not tight enough and the tip will come off. I will keep trying to reduce the captiveness.
The cap itself does work as advertised, allowing me multiple hits per heating which is what I was after. I can finish a half cap in 2 or 3 hits with only one heating if I take them fast enough. I no longer have the lung power to take it all in one go. I think if I can find a way to further reduce the captiveness without allowing the cap to just fall off I WILL be able to more easily use the Armored Cap. I just have to find the right tool.
Seems about the same to me. The clicker is inside the cap as before.
Added later:
Another point that I forgot to mention. The Reload, everyone's favorite Dyna accessory from MadHeaters, is designed to be able to remove even a stubborn cap by having a lip around the magnet that you can slip the crimp into to grab the cap and pull it off. On the Armored cap the crimp is meatier and too big to slip under the lip so even this method of cap removal sadly fails.