StillBiggerThanYou

Well-Known Member
Hi folks. I have a question. I have built an induction heater, (based on the great design from Pipes and there examples here) using a wired (Mains) power supply. Problem: I get to the second loud click after 6 seconds. I would like to slow this down. Is there any way to 'tune' this to slow down the heat? Can I add a potentiometer to reduce the voltage getting to the heater? Should I just get a different supply?
The easiest way to tune this is to have the cap sit deeper in your induction chamber. You can either modify your chamber so it's a little deeper, or move your coil up a little from where it is right now.

By having the cap sit lower in relation to your coil, it means you get more heat into the chamber, further away from the end of the cap where the click happens.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Anyone with their new Orion 1.5 notice small cracks surfacing ( under the decal ), near
The coil.

One would have thought the new Orion was to have addressed this issue. Otherwise,
The problem still persists. By :whip: cracky
 

icecream

Well-Known Member
This is would be better suited for the Orion thread. However, since you asked, I got 2 small cracks (I think from heat) on the side that is at the top next to the coil on my Orion v2 weeks ago.

I am excited for the release of this year's colored Ms. I know it is probably still a long wait (last year it was October), but I am excited non the less. I always went for the non-colored versions in previous years, but this year I want to get a colored M. I am really hoping for green this year 🤞
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Anyone with their new Orion 1.5 notice small cracks surfacing ( under the decal ), near
The coil.

One would have thought the new Orion was to have addressed this issue. Otherwise,
The problem still persists. By :whip: cracky
They should have also rotated the coil 180 degrees so the 'knee' of the wire was further from the case. I mentioned it but fell through the cracks.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
So, if the coil is faced in the opposite direction, where would you stick your ‘Cap,

TED DEE ( did you mean rotate the hot point/“knee” in the opposite direction? )

( Orion clone )
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
The hot spot will still be a hot spot?
Now the PCB will have to face the heat?
Mayday
 
stark1,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
The hot spot will still be a hot spot?
Now the PCB will have to face the heat?
Mayday
You're missing where the heat concentration is and how it causes the specific problem people are seeing. If you do as I suggest to a real unit, you'd see in a second what I am saying.
 
TommyDee,

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Have you ever been to the show me state 👈 🤗

Thing is, when you flip the coil, you have to make a “knee” for what was a perfect fit end

Results: Same issue.

To make it clear (to me), are you saying that the flux is denser where there is a bend? :peace:
 
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stark1,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Technically a triple point. Rotate on axis. It is not the knee that is the problem, but the wire leading away from it as the beginning of the coil. It now points to plastic... rotate 180 and it points toward the insides. Simple like that.
 
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