Well, that explains it then.Just dont get too sassy/snarky, or you will get absolutely *NO* sex.
Not to me, but I have heard it said.She said thet?
Sneaky Pete's little spacer thingies suddenly seem quite inexpensiveJust recently found out that an Omni is one nifty tool to have.
Who knew.
I have one too, don't use it often, but the times when I do it is always very much appreciatedOnly a double sawbux for very useful calipers is $$ well invested! I agree.
The easiest way to tune this is to have the cap sit deeper in your induction chamber. You can either modify your chamber so it's a little deeper, or move your coil up a little from where it is right now.Hi folks. I have a question. I have built an induction heater, (based on the great design from Pipes and there examples here) using a wired (Mains) power supply. Problem: I get to the second loud click after 6 seconds. I would like to slow this down. Is there any way to 'tune' this to slow down the heat? Can I add a potentiometer to reduce the voltage getting to the heater? Should I just get a different supply?
They should have also rotated the coil 180 degrees so the 'knee' of the wire was further from the case. I mentioned it but fell through the cracks.Anyone with their new Orion 1.5 notice small cracks surfacing ( under the decal ), near
The coil.
One would have thought the new Orion was to have addressed this issue. Otherwise,
The problem still persists. By cracky
There are precious few images of the Orion's insides. But the top leg of the coil points to the plastic case. That bend in the wire is where things get hot. If you rotate the coil 180 degrees, the knee would point in toward the insides rather than the nearby case plastics.Pictures for those with ( like myself ) weak imagination, please
how much it cost?!
i LIKE them! heheFor you?
A bargain
We also have a bridge
Nope, 180 degrees will take that little leg pointing to the case to pointing to the insides. Since copper distributes heat faster than nearly everything else, the heat of the top coil near that bend is the greatest. So if it was facing away from the case, the heat would be further inboard.
You're missing where the heat concentration is and how it causes the specific problem people are seeing. If you do as I suggest to a real unit, you'd see in a second what I am saying.The hot spot will still be a hot spot?
Now the PCB will have to face the heat?
Mayday