Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
notams
toke down Babylon
Hey @snackmaster thanks for that link. Cool. Looks like this has already been discussed.
I don't do much of any social media or really anything online besides this one forum so I appreciate when someone can simmer down five hours of me plodding thru the internet to a simple link.
I don't do much of any social media or really anything online besides this one forum so I appreciate when someone can simmer down five hours of me plodding thru the internet to a simple link.
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
This would require a redesign of the bowl and the cap because both would need to be larger and would make existing Induction Heaters ineffective as they are designed around the existing units. Not happening imo.
You don't need to fix something that isn't broken.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
well, unless they just make smol adjustments sort of like this? might not work well tho but i would be up for testing.
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
The small and regular are already provided by the adjust a bowl feature. My concern with the large (good idea as it is) is that the longer heat up time would cause potential combustion issues but.... If anyone can make it happen then George @DynaVap can.well, unless they just make smol adjustments sort of like this? might not work well tho but i would be up for testing.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
yeah ... more i think about it more i realize temps inside the bowl would be uneven, lower as the bowl gets deeper, because of the bucket shaped heater/cap. like there's an ideal ratio, you can't change just one parameter... it's probably why dynavaps seem to work best with the bowl in the smallest setting.
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
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As it is the Ti tips offer 3 different bowl settings and each one extracts perfectly with a torch.
I find that the 50% and 75% bowl settings work best with an Induction Heater but the full bowl is sometimes still green towards the bottom with an IH.
I think George has already found the ideal bowl ratio tbh.
As it is the Ti tips offer 3 different bowl settings and each one extracts perfectly with a torch.
I find that the 50% and 75% bowl settings work best with an Induction Heater but the full bowl is sometimes still green towards the bottom with an IH.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
well, unless they just make smol adjustments sort of like this? might not work well tho but i would be up for testing.
It's never been about what people need - If DV made it, people will want it. I like the idea a lot VBTL. The small bowl will be a winner for efficiency.
Copterstyle
Active Member
I would also be all over the small chamber tip. I get all gunked up behind the screen when using the "adjust a bowl" I wonder if using a smaller chamber would fix that.
sirwalter
Well-Known Member
Agreed, I've asked Dynavap to consider making a small tip in the past. If they ever did I'd grab a couple.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
this is the purpose. after years of dismissing the small CCD position i finally get it and it's all i use now on tips that have it (also fixing larger screens above the groove in older SS tips to make a half bowl).
the empty space behind now only serves to trap residue, especially in the lower CCD groove. so my thinking was a smaller chamber tip would be easier to clean and setup.
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It could be cool if you could keep the bowl pushed back, and use the leftover space to facilitate more convection
Farid
Well-Known Member
I find no real difference in buildup, but I get where you're coming from. Setting the small CCD can be a pain in the ass sometimes (which is why I just stopped using it all together and do small packs in the large setting)
But all that aside, there is the issue of how it would perform with the extra fins and shortened bowl.
Since the channeled section would be shorter, the incoming air would be less preheated, leading to a quicker temperature drop during inhalation. The mass at the bowl would be lower leading to faster heatup and cooldown (which I think would be too fast with TI). The cap would be touching a smaller surface area of the tip (due to the shortened bowl section) leading to less heat transfer between the cap and the tip. And finally if you were to heat at the section of cap over the bowl and not over the fins you would be heating the midsection of the cap, very close to the clicker, leading to a lower temperature click.
With SS I could see it working a bit better maybe, but with TI I think you'd have a very short window to take your hit.
But all that aside, there is the issue of how it would perform with the extra fins and shortened bowl.
Since the channeled section would be shorter, the incoming air would be less preheated, leading to a quicker temperature drop during inhalation. The mass at the bowl would be lower leading to faster heatup and cooldown (which I think would be too fast with TI). The cap would be touching a smaller surface area of the tip (due to the shortened bowl section) leading to less heat transfer between the cap and the tip. And finally if you were to heat at the section of cap over the bowl and not over the fins you would be heating the midsection of the cap, very close to the clicker, leading to a lower temperature click.
With SS I could see it working a bit better maybe, but with TI I think you'd have a very short window to take your hit.
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snackmaster
Well-Known Member
How's induction heater performance?
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
It could be cool if you could keep the bowl pushed back, and use the leftover space to facilitate more convection
Lately I’ve just been putting a tiny chunk in the full 2018 SS tip I have on a NonaVonG body to use through a j-hook. I get 2-3 draws then crush it up and finish with 1 more. It might barely cover the screen crushed up.
That dose won’t work for someone with a higher tolerance who wants to get really high, but I’m doing it with 2:1 CBD:THC stuff during the day and that plus low dose edibles is working out right now.
Anyway, the point is I think it works fine as it is with the full bowl setting and a minimal load, although it could be optimized.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
That doesn't look like flowering quince to me. Whatcha got for a wood stem there TD?
TommyDee
Vaporitor
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Very nice TD. That can't be easily to bore the ID on a piece that long and thin.
I once heard an old woodturner say, one of the cardinal rules of woodturning is you can't make the inside bigger than the outside.
I enjoy my woodstem best of all, but it is unlined and building up a lot of foul reclaim deep within. I'd like to pick one up that has a SS lining, but no airport.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Indeed @BabyFacedFinster - that bore is a little work but I have a long drill-bit.
So far I've been able to manage the reclaim pretty well. It is a natural preservative to start with so the initial coating should be nice and clean - no popcorn or combustion. Kind of like seasoning your favorite cast iron skillet. After that, combustion events are horrible to the taste for sure. I push that reclaim out with a skewer. Works every time to remove the burnt taste. Not for everyone but it works for me.
As to the choice of species, that seems to color the reclaim as well. In that case, yes, Flowering Quince has been absolutely the right species for unlined stems. Not only are they simple but they have nearly no scent even when turning them on the lathe.
Some people might understand this more than me but it is an interesting observation - when turning FQ, the dust doesn't have significant static properties. I never had issues turning FQ with minimal dust control. Not the case with the Rosewood as the dust stuck to everything and I could tell it was affecting my bio-self even with a DynaMask. The scent was overwhelming as well. Similar scent levels with Cherry wood but the dust did not exhibit as much static properties as the Rosewood. Cherry smells a whole lot better too. However, as I discovered this anomaly, I wrote off alternate species. An unlined stem should be as neutral in scent as possible.
So far I've been able to manage the reclaim pretty well. It is a natural preservative to start with so the initial coating should be nice and clean - no popcorn or combustion. Kind of like seasoning your favorite cast iron skillet. After that, combustion events are horrible to the taste for sure. I push that reclaim out with a skewer. Works every time to remove the burnt taste. Not for everyone but it works for me.
As to the choice of species, that seems to color the reclaim as well. In that case, yes, Flowering Quince has been absolutely the right species for unlined stems. Not only are they simple but they have nearly no scent even when turning them on the lathe.
Some people might understand this more than me but it is an interesting observation - when turning FQ, the dust doesn't have significant static properties. I never had issues turning FQ with minimal dust control. Not the case with the Rosewood as the dust stuck to everything and I could tell it was affecting my bio-self even with a DynaMask. The scent was overwhelming as well. Similar scent levels with Cherry wood but the dust did not exhibit as much static properties as the Rosewood. Cherry smells a whole lot better too. However, as I discovered this anomaly, I wrote off alternate species. An unlined stem should be as neutral in scent as possible.
