Make certain it's Stainless Steel of some kind (I used 316L) rather than Kanthal/Nichrome. While other metals are probably fine, stainless is known to be nonreactive at the temps we're using it at, so you have total peace of mind with that material.
The 34g was the biggest pain to wrap, keep in mind you HAVE to maintain tension the whole time, otherwise you'll lose all your progress. I started by making a small loop that I wrapped tightly around the disc indent on the cap, then started rotating the vapcap assembly while holding the wire spool taut with a weight. I had to do a couple wraps around the top to get the wire anchored, then just started slowly working my way down, pushing each wrap as close as I could to the one before it. Once I got to the captive indents on the bottom, I went ahead and wrapped the wire a couple times around the digger-outer, then clipped it. In the end, it almost looks like I put a thick sheet of foil around the cap.
For the 24g, I again started at the top, but maintaining tension on the wire was a lot easier, and I found that if I released tension it wasn't as catastrophic as with the 34g. I kept the wraps really tight, and when I reached the bottom, I just started wrapping a second layer over the first, but I wasn't keeping this one really tight. I found if you try to overtighten the second layer, it spaces out the wraps underneath and causes the ones on the end to come off the cap assembly, and the second layer of wraps was just to mount the coil, not really for that much extra thermal mass anyway. Once I wrapped to the top of the cap, I wrapped the wire around the small twist from the very start of the coil, keeping as much tension as possible throughout the whole set of wraps.
The unit really behaves interestingly with so much extra mass on the outside. First, the advice DV gives to wait a little before taking a draw becomes a bit more important here. I'd recommend waiting 5-10 seconds so that the heat from the outer coil really gets a chance to soak in the tip before you draw. Next, even with a 3/4in flame held on the very low side of the tip, the click arrives around when the bowl is still at the lower temp range of 355-375 IME, so you actually have even more room to play with overshooting the click with the extra wraps. I accidentally missed the second click earlier and held the flame for an additional 5-6 seconds past whenever the click must've occurred, with no combustion/near-combustion flavors. YMMV, but it feels like with this mod you've got a lot of room to play with how long you torch post-click to get some nice higher-temp experiences.
Also worth noting, the triple torch still has behaves kinda similarly here compared to stock. It heats to click way faster, but ends up giving pretty low temps unless you're willing to take it pretty far past the click. I haven't experimented too much with flame size/timings though, so maybe other users will like the triple more. I'm just getting such good results out of my single that I don't see the need to experiment with another torch.
Make certain it's Stainless Steel of some kind (I used 316L) rather than Kanthal/Nichrome. While other metals are probably fine, stainless is known to be nonreactive at the temps we're using it at, so you have total peace of mind with that material.
The 34g was the biggest pain to wrap, keep in mind you HAVE to maintain tension the whole time, otherwise you'll lose all your progress. I started by making a small loop that I wrapped tightly around the disc indent on the cap, then started rotating the vapcap assembly while holding the wire spool taut with a weight. I had to do a couple wraps around the top to get the wire anchored, then just started slowly working my way down, pushing each wrap as close as I could to the one before it. Once I got to the captive indents on the bottom, I went ahead and wrapped the wire a couple times around the digger-outer, then clipped it. In the end, it almost looks like I put a thick sheet of foil around the cap.
For the 24g, I again started at the top, but maintaining tension on the wire was a lot easier, and I found that if I released tension it wasn't as catastrophic as with the 34g. I kept the wraps really tight, and when I reached the bottom, I just started wrapping a second layer over the first, but I wasn't keeping this one really tight. I found if you try to overtighten the second layer, it spaces out the wraps underneath and causes the ones on the end to come off the cap assembly, and the second layer of wraps was just to mount the coil, not really for that much extra thermal mass anyway. Once I wrapped to the top of the cap, I wrapped the wire around the small twist from the very start of the coil, keeping as much tension as possible throughout the whole set of wraps.
The unit really behaves interestingly with so much extra mass on the outside. First, the advice DV gives to wait a little before taking a draw becomes a bit more important here. I'd recommend waiting 5-10 seconds so that the heat from the outer coil really gets a chance to soak in the tip before you draw. Next, even with a 3/4in flame held on the very low side of the tip, the click arrives around when the bowl is still at the lower temp range of 355-375 IME, so you actually have even more room to play with overshooting the click with the extra wraps. I accidentally missed the second click earlier and held the flame for an additional 5-6 seconds past whenever the click must've occurred, with no combustion/near-combustion flavors. YMMV, but it feels like with this mod you've got a lot of room to play with how long you torch post-click to get some nice higher-temp experiences.
Also worth noting, the triple torch still has behaves kinda similarly here compared to stock. It heats to click way faster, but ends up giving pretty low temps unless you're willing to take it pretty far past the click. I haven't experimented too much with flame size/timings though, so maybe other users will like the triple more. I'm just getting such good results out of my single that I don't see the need to experiment with another torch.
Hi friends! It's been a minute since I've checked in with this thread, and I figure now's a good time to give an update on my impressions with my 20M since I've been doing some tinkering recently with wire wraps.
In stock form, I've been using the M primarily as a microdosing machine. My vaping philosophy is to try to get the most efficient extraction, which means trying to keep the bowl at vapor-producing temperatures for as long as possible, since keeping the herbs at temps just below that range causes cannabinoid degradation fairly rapidly. This clashes a bit with the dyna, as by design, the unit will always be losing thermal energy throughout the hit. However, I learned to get decent results by focusing on torch technique and taking the bowl reliably into the (assumed) 400+ deg range.
-Unfortunately, there are no cheat codes to get around the fact that herbs just don't conduct heat that well. The middle part of the bowl is gonna take a while to heat up to our desired temps, and so you'll get the best results with torch techniques that heat pretty "mildly" (small flame sizes, holding the cap just above the tip) compared to techniques that heat aggressively (big flame, holding the cap in the tip of the flame).
-Learning how to properly time torching past the click is a must, especially in the first 1-2 heating cycles. This requires understanding the way your torch position affects the click and bowl temp relationship. The further you move the torch flame down the cap, the less the heat from the torch will directly influence the temperature of the discs in the cap. Imagining the most extreme example, if you hold the flame right over the discs ridge at the tip of the cap, the discs will heat very rapidly and click before the bowl gets much of a chance to see any of the heat, and you'll never get any vapor. In contrast, if you hold the flame just before the end of the cap on the body side, the discs will heat far more slowly since they're out of the direct hotspot from the torch flame. I've found the best spot to hold the flame is around where the dimples on the captive cap are, which corresponds to just below the main metal part of the actual bowl. For the first heat cycle, I continue to torch for a full 3-4 seconds past the click, then for subsequent cycles only 1-2 seconds. This may sound like a lot, but keep in mind this is with a barely 3/4in tall single torch.
These techniques really just try to heat soak the bowl as thoroughly as possible while taking the bowl to high temperatures to make sure that the herbs produce vapor as long as possible. While this is fine when those high-temp effects are desired, often I'd rather stay in a lower temperature range to reduce the quantity of cannabinoids and terpenes that contribute to the sedative effects of vaping. This, of course, contradicts with our desire to get efficient extractions out of the dyna, since low temping will end up significantly reducing the amount of time the herbs spend in the useful vapor-producing temperature range.
So, in order to low temp, we need something that will make the dyna stay at our desired temps for longer. Or, in other words, we need something to add more thermal mass to the vapcap.
Enter wire wrapping.
Yesterday, I picked up a couple gauges of SS316L wire (normally used for e-cig coil builds) and wrapped my vapcap. I decided to leave out copper for now, and honestly, my results with pure stainless were good enough that I doubt I'll ever bother trying a copper build.
I started with a single layer of very fine gauge wire, and first anchored on the disc side of the cap. I then held the wire taut while twisting the whole unit and pressed the wraps together with my fingernail as I went down the cap, securing on the "digger outer" side with a couple loops. This first set really didn't add a lot to the mass of the cap, but also didn't really change the way it behaved with my normal torch technique. Even if you don't really think adding thick wire wraps will be for you, I'd still highly recommend at least trying a wrap with a fine gauge (32g or higher), as all the subtle changes I noticed were positive and it didn't really change the "feel" at all. Using the torch identically to how I would without the wraps, the click was just delayed by a couple seconds, and the unit seemed to produce vapor just a bit longer.
The real differences came when I added an additional layer of thicker gauge wire. This time, since I couldn't anchor the wire on the digger-outer, I decided to do 2 sets of wraps so that I could anchor the end of the wire against its start. The inner layer of wraps was kept as tight as possible (and I left the thinner gauge wire underneath), while the outer layer was a bit more spaced apart (I didn't want to try to wrap the second layer too tight and push the loops of the first layer apart).
The thicker wire changed the session pretty dramatically, and at least for my use cases, for the better. The click takes way longer to arrive using my original torch technique, but the added dissipation from the extra wire mass lets me use bigger torch sizes without risk of overheating the outer parts of the bowl. Once I got the bigger flame size/closer flame position dialed in, the unit only took a few extra seconds to click compared to before. With a couple seconds of past-click heating, I'm able to handily extract the whole .05g within one extended draw, and heating just to the click gives me a very satisfying lower temp draw (if I had to estimate, around 380 deg) that produces vapor far longer than similar temps on the stock configuration. In general, the extra mass keeps the whole cap hot enough to fully extract the bowl in 1-2 hits, even at lower temperatures that would take the stock unit 5+ hits to fully extract.
I've never had the luxury of trying an Anvil (or a Lotus... or any other butane vape for that matter D: ), but I've gotta say, the thick gauge wrapped setup really scratches the itch I've had for a good one-hitter microdoser for awhile. I feel like one of the biggest hurdles to getting good results out of microdosing is being able to get very thorough extractions in just one draw. With such little material to work with, having to split the herb into 2-3 separate puffs often gives unsatisfying results since each individual hit feels "too small". In the stock setup, I was never satisfied with the hits I'd get from microdosing unless I really tried to hit the upper end of the vaping temperature range. The wirewrapped setup really lets microdoses shine, providing single hits with a .05g load about as large as any individual hit you'd get out of a session with .2g+ in some other vapes, and at far lower temperatures than stock.
I've written a whole damn novel here about why I think wire wrapping is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I'll leave you all with a last tidbit that I think says more about how much I'm enjoying these results than anything else I could tell you; I still haven't gotten around to trying the .1g bowl setting with the wire wrapped config.
And to be honest, I'm kinda scared to.
TL;DR If you like heavy hits/microdosing efficiently, give wire wrapping a try. I got really good results out of a single layer of thin gauge wire overlaid with 2 layers of thick gauge wire, effectively turning my 20M into an Anvil. Low temping especially benefits from wrapping.
This is why I like the older hotter caps - they do this without the extra wraps. But alas, we are stuck with weak cap.
I just put a 6.2:1 gain ratio caps back into rotation. A bowl that normally lasts 4-5 draws is dark in 2.
https://www.reddit.com/r/inductionheaters/comments/jbzdmx
I hope DV figures something out because this is real. Thanks for the explanation. Post up the wire gauge you landed on.
Hi friends! It's been a minute since I've checked in with this thread, and I figure now's a good time to give an update on my impressions with my 20M since I've been doing some tinkering recently with wire wraps.
In stock form, I've been using the M primarily as a microdosing machine. My vaping philosophy is to try to get the most efficient extraction, which means trying to keep the bowl at vapor-producing temperatures for as long as possible, since keeping the herbs at temps just below that range causes cannabinoid degradation fairly rapidly. This clashes a bit with the dyna, as by design, the unit will always be losing thermal energy throughout the hit. However, I learned to get decent results by focusing on torch technique and taking the bowl reliably into the (assumed) 400+ deg range.
-Unfortunately, there are no cheat codes to get around the fact that herbs just don't conduct heat that well. The middle part of the bowl is gonna take a while to heat up to our desired temps, and so you'll get the best results with torch techniques that heat pretty "mildly" (small flame sizes, holding the cap just above the tip) compared to techniques that heat aggressively (big flame, holding the cap in the tip of the flame).
-Learning how to properly time torching past the click is a must, especially in the first 1-2 heating cycles. This requires understanding the way your torch position affects the click and bowl temp relationship. The further you move the torch flame down the cap, the less the heat from the torch will directly influence the temperature of the discs in the cap. Imagining the most extreme example, if you hold the flame right over the discs ridge at the tip of the cap, the discs will heat very rapidly and click before the bowl gets much of a chance to see any of the heat, and you'll never get any vapor. In contrast, if you hold the flame just before the end of the cap on the body side, the discs will heat far more slowly since they're out of the direct hotspot from the torch flame. I've found the best spot to hold the flame is around where the dimples on the captive cap are, which corresponds to just below the main metal part of the actual bowl. For the first heat cycle, I continue to torch for a full 3-4 seconds past the click, then for subsequent cycles only 1-2 seconds. This may sound like a lot, but keep in mind this is with a barely 3/4in tall single torch.
These techniques really just try to heat soak the bowl as thoroughly as possible while taking the bowl to high temperatures to make sure that the herbs produce vapor as long as possible. While this is fine when those high-temp effects are desired, often I'd rather stay in a lower temperature range to reduce the quantity of cannabinoids and terpenes that contribute to the sedative effects of vaping. This, of course, contradicts with our desire to get efficient extractions out of the dyna, since low temping will end up significantly reducing the amount of time the herbs spend in the useful vapor-producing temperature range.
So, in order to low temp, we need something that will make the dyna stay at our desired temps for longer. Or, in other words, we need something to add more thermal mass to the vapcap.
Enter wire wrapping.
Yesterday, I picked up a couple gauges of SS316L wire (normally used for e-cig coil builds) and wrapped my vapcap. I decided to leave out copper for now, and honestly, my results with pure stainless were good enough that I doubt I'll ever bother trying a copper build.
I started with a single layer of very fine gauge wire, and first anchored on the disc side of the cap. I then held the wire taut while twisting the whole unit and pressed the wraps together with my fingernail as I went down the cap, securing on the "digger outer" side with a couple loops. This first set really didn't add a lot to the mass of the cap, but also didn't really change the way it behaved with my normal torch technique. Even if you don't really think adding thick wire wraps will be for you, I'd still highly recommend at least trying a wrap with a fine gauge (32g or higher), as all the subtle changes I noticed were positive and it didn't really change the "feel" at all. Using the torch identically to how I would without the wraps, the click was just delayed by a couple seconds, and the unit seemed to produce vapor just a bit longer.
The real differences came when I added an additional layer of thicker gauge wire. This time, since I couldn't anchor the wire on the digger-outer, I decided to do 2 sets of wraps so that I could anchor the end of the wire against its start. The inner layer of wraps was kept as tight as possible (and I left the thinner gauge wire underneath), while the outer layer was a bit more spaced apart (I didn't want to try to wrap the second layer too tight and push the loops of the first layer apart).
The thicker wire changed the session pretty dramatically, and at least for my use cases, for the better. The click takes way longer to arrive using my original torch technique, but the added dissipation from the extra wire mass lets me use bigger torch sizes without risk of overheating the outer parts of the bowl. Once I got the bigger flame size/closer flame position dialed in, the unit only took a few extra seconds to click compared to before. With a couple seconds of past-click heating, I'm able to handily extract the whole .05g within one extended draw, and heating just to the click gives me a very satisfying lower temp draw (if I had to estimate, around 380 deg) that produces vapor far longer than similar temps on the stock configuration. In general, the extra mass keeps the whole cap hot enough to fully extract the bowl in 1-2 hits, even at lower temperatures that would take the stock unit 5+ hits to fully extract.
I've never had the luxury of trying an Anvil (or a Lotus... or any other butane vape for that matter D: ), but I've gotta say, the thick gauge wrapped setup really scratches the itch I've had for a good one-hitter microdoser for awhile. I feel like one of the biggest hurdles to getting good results out of microdosing is being able to get very thorough extractions in just one draw. With such little material to work with, having to split the herb into 2-3 separate puffs often gives unsatisfying results since each individual hit feels "too small". In the stock setup, I was never satisfied with the hits I'd get from microdosing unless I really tried to hit the upper end of the vaping temperature range. The wirewrapped setup really lets microdoses shine, providing single hits with a .05g load about as large as any individual hit you'd get out of a session with .2g+ in some other vapes, and at far lower temperatures than stock.
I've written a whole damn novel here about why I think wire wrapping is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I'll leave you all with a last tidbit that I think says more about how much I'm enjoying these results than anything else I could tell you; I still haven't gotten around to trying the .1g bowl setting with the wire wrapped config.
And to be honest, I'm kinda scared to.
TL;DR If you like heavy hits/microdosing efficiently, give wire wrapping a try. I got really good results out of a single layer of thin gauge wire overlaid with 2 layers of thick gauge wire, effectively turning my 20M into an Anvil. Low temping especially benefits from wrapping.
2 less 419 caps in the offering. They are under the special deals section of the shop if you have trouble finding them. The sale does not apply to the 419 caps BTW.
@3l3tric Big thanks for the detailed 'how to' instructions for creating more thermal mass on a DV cap. Just plunked down big bucks for an Anvil yesterday to create what your method seems to achieve at a fraction of the cost. Love my DV's and will be pursing this further.
@3l3tric Big thanks for the detailed 'how to' instructions for creating more thermal mass on a DV cap. Just plunked down big bucks for an Anvil yesterday to create what your method seems to achieve at a fraction of the cost. Love my DV's and will be pursing this further.
Think you will love the Anvil, a different experience due to different design, despite also being a butane vape with a clicking cap.
A great complement to Dynavaps, which continue to feature prominently in my rotation. Such a nice sipper. And a pleasure with dialed-in IHs like Fluxor Flite, Hot Shot or Wand (a great DV tuned IH by happy accident.
I don't own an IH (yet ;D) so I can't do any testing there. I'd predict you'd get one of two results: Either the outer wrap and inner steel tip would heat simultaneously and you'd get some amazing heat soaking throughout, or the outer wrap would "absorb" all the induction heating and the steel tip would only receive the conduction heat from the outer wraps. I'd think the former is more likely than the latter, but I haven't looked far enough into IHs and am not familiar enough with electromagnetism to say for sure. Either way, it should be possible to at least get satisfactory performance using an IH, but I think you'd likely need an IH with adjustable output to fine tune things to be really properly usable. This is completely speculation, but I'd imagine to get the best results you'd have to use lower heating settings, otherwise the outer coil may not have time to warm significantly by the time the inner tip is hot.
Either way, it'll be important to make sure whatever wraps you do will actually still fit in the hole of your IH. This is part of why I recommend the thinner gauge wrap to everyone, because it really didn't increase the diameter by a noticeable amount, while the thicker gauge wraps do increase the girth of the cap pretty substantially. If your vapcap is already a tight fit in your IH, I doubt the thicker gauge wire will be compatible.
@3l3tric Big thanks for the detailed 'how to' instructions for creating more thermal mass on a DV cap. Just plunked down big bucks for an Anvil yesterday to create what your method seems to achieve at a fraction of the cost. Love my DV's and will be pursing this further.
That's really why I posted my results with this method here. Even though I'm sure the anvil has a number of advantages over this homebrewed setup, I think it's really important to let people know about the really cheap ways you can still get remotely comparable results. IMO, while the pursuit of the perfect, artisan vaping experience is really important, I think it's also equally important to remember the broke newbies that don't want to have to chuck $150+ at a device to maybe get OK results.
I'm still just floored that I'm getting such satisfying vapor out of a setup that only cost me around $75-80 in the end. I've spent this little on vapes before (like the shitty APX ones you see in head shops all over), but never gotten this good of results out of such a tiny load. If I'd had a setup like this to try out in my early days of hemp use years ago, I feel like I would've gotten so much more mileage out of my consumption over the years. I still love my electronic portables like my HR Edge, but for solo use, the bowl sizes I have to use in that unit to get satisfying hits end up building my tolerance way too quickly.
Eventually I'm sure the VAS bug will work its way under my skin again to make me start pursuing some other fantastic microdosing device, but honestly, the wrapped dyna is pretty much everything I've been looking for in a DHE device for awhile now. I'm able to satisfy my urge to finish a bowl in one session so it doesn't lose potency, and I get such satisfying, full vapor, but I'm using an amount that would barely produce a mist over a couple minutes in my other devices.
2 less 419 caps in the offering. They are under the special deals section of the shop if you have trouble finding them. The sale does not apply to the 419 caps BTW.
I don't own an IH (yet ;D) so I can't do any testing there. I'd predict you'd get one of two results: Either the outer wrap and inner steel tip would heat simultaneously and you'd get some amazing heat soaking throughout, or the outer wrap would "absorb" all the induction heating and the steel tip would only receive the conduction heat from the outer wraps. I'd think the former is more likely than the latter, but I haven't looked far enough into IHs and am not familiar enough with electromagnetism to say for sure. Either way, it should be possible to at least get satisfactory performance using an IH, but I think you'd likely need an IH with adjustable output to fine tune things to be really properly usable. This is completely speculation, but I'd imagine to get the best results you'd have to use lower heating settings, otherwise the outer coil may not have time to warm significantly by the time the inner tip is hot.
Either way, it'll be important to make sure whatever wraps you do will actually still fit in the hole of your IH. This is part of why I recommend the thinner gauge wrap to everyone, because it really didn't increase the diameter by a noticeable amount, while the thicker gauge wraps do increase the girth of the cap pretty substantially. If your vapcap is already a tight fit in your IH, I doubt the thicker gauge wire will be compatible.
Here's an album with both types of wraps, as well as single-cycle results.
That's really why I posted my results with this method here. Even though I'm sure the anvil has a number of advantages over this homebrewed setup, I think it's really important to let people know about the really cheap ways you can still get remotely comparable results. IMO, while the pursuit of the perfect, artisan vaping experience is really important, I think it's also equally important to remember the broke newbies that don't want to have to chuck $150+ at a device to maybe get OK results.
I'm still just floored that I'm getting such satisfying vapor out of a setup that only cost me around $75-80 in the end. I've spent this little on vapes before (like the shitty APX ones you see in head shops all over), but never gotten this good of results out of such a tiny load. If I'd had a setup like this to try out in my early days of hemp use years ago, I feel like I would've gotten so much more mileage out of my consumption over the years. I still love my electronic portables like my HR Edge, but for solo use, the bowl sizes I have to use in that unit to get satisfying hits end up building my tolerance way too quickly.
Eventually I'm sure the VAS bug will work its way under my skin again to make me start pursuing some other fantastic microdosing device, but honestly, the wrapped dyna is pretty much everything I've been looking for in a DHE device for awhile now. I'm able to satisfy my urge to finish a bowl in one session so it doesn't lose potency, and I get such satisfying, full vapor, but I'm using an amount that would barely produce a mist over a couple minutes in my other devices.
I don't own an IH (yet ;D) so I can't do any testing there. I'd predict you'd get one of two results: Either the outer wrap and inner steel tip would heat simultaneously and you'd get some amazing heat soaking throughout, or the outer wrap would "absorb" all the induction heating and the steel tip would only receive the conduction heat from the outer wraps. I'd think the former is more likely than the latter, but I haven't looked far enough into IHs and am not familiar enough with electromagnetism to say for sure. Either way, it should be possible to at least get satisfactory performance using an IH, but I think you'd likely need an IH with adjustable output to fine tune things to be really properly usable. This is completely speculation, but I'd imagine to get the best results you'd have to use lower heating settings, otherwise the outer coil may not have time to warm significantly by the time the inner tip is hot.
Either way, it'll be important to make sure whatever wraps you do will actually still fit in the hole of your IH. This is part of why I recommend the thinner gauge wrap to everyone, because it really didn't increase the diameter by a noticeable amount, while the thicker gauge wraps do increase the girth of the cap pretty substantially. If your vapcap is already a tight fit in your IH, I doubt the thicker gauge wire will be compatible.
Here's an album with both types of wraps, as well as single-cycle results.
That's really why I posted my results with this method here. Even though I'm sure the anvil has a number of advantages over this homebrewed setup, I think it's really important to let people know about the really cheap ways you can still get remotely comparable results. IMO, while the pursuit of the perfect, artisan vaping experience is really important, I think it's also equally important to remember the broke newbies that don't want to have to chuck $150+ at a device to maybe get OK results.
I'm still just floored that I'm getting such satisfying vapor out of a setup that only cost me around $75-80 in the end. I've spent this little on vapes before (like the shitty APX ones you see in head shops all over), but never gotten this good of results out of such a tiny load. If I'd had a setup like this to try out in my early days of hemp use years ago, I feel like I would've gotten so much more mileage out of my consumption over the years. I still love my electronic portables like my HR Edge, but for solo use, the bowl sizes I have to use in that unit to get satisfying hits end up building my tolerance way too quickly.
Eventually I'm sure the VAS bug will work its way under my skin again to make me start pursuing some other fantastic microdosing device, but honestly, the wrapped dyna is pretty much everything I've been looking for in a DHE device for awhile now. I'm able to satisfy my urge to finish a bowl in one session so it doesn't lose potency, and I get such satisfying, full vapor, but I'm using an amount that would barely produce a mist over a couple minutes in my other devices.
Great photos. Always nice to see the results before one attempts it. Thanks.
The SS 316 wire wrap you are using is indeed a healthy choice so close to the air flow intake. For those that are considering using this material for use with a IH, SS 316 lacks magnetic properties, and would be a poor choice. This is the reason why Vestratto switched from using medical grade (MG) SS 316 to SS 416 in the outer shell of the oven in the newer User Edition of the Anvil. This switch to SS 416 was done precisely for it's magnetic properties, so going forward it would be compatible with their more powerful IH currently in development. All components in the Anvil's air path are (MG) SS 316 with the exception of one (MG) TI reclaim spiral.
I'd imagine DV would either release a solid flat collar or just a thicker cap, although I'm sure retail forces would make these parts cost at least $20+ (probably $40+ for a thick cap), so from the consumer side the frugal choice will probably always be to do wire wraps yourself. A flat coil collar would probably be far easier to install than the really fine wire though.
Great photos. Always nice to see the results before one attempts it. Thanks.
The SS 316 wire wrap you are using is indeed a healthy choice so close to the air flow intake. For those that are considering using this material for use with a IH, SS 316 lacks magnetic properties, and would be a poor choice. This is the reason why Vestratto switched from using medical grade (MG) SS 316 to SS 304 in the outer shell of the oven in the newer User Edition of the Anvil. This switch to SS 304 was done precisely for it's magnetic properties, so going forward it would be compatible with their more powerful IH currently in development. All components in the Anvil's air path are (MG) SS 316 with the exception of one (MG) TI reclaim spiral.
I hadn't even considered the differences in magnetic properties, good catch. In that case, my earlier speculation on how this would perform in an IH is entirely off base then.
To be honest, I just went with 316L because it's what the local shops had, but I'm sure some other wire type would probably be better. Once I finally invest in an IH I'll have to start experimenting with different SS types.
Just ran my first full .1g session through the wrapped cap. Took 3 heating cycles to fully clear, but the last was truly on the knife edge of combustion.
This thing really blows through these loads like a hammer. I'll probably be mostly sticking with the half load size for conservation's sake, but no matter the size of the bowl, the wire wraps really take vapor production up a notch. In the stock configuration full-bowl, I'd often take the unit through 6+ heating cycles just to "make sure" I'd fully cleared the whole thing, as I found especially the bottom of the bowl would sometimes be a bit undercooked compared to the top. Once you get the wrapped cap going though, it really hits like a train, and the few hits you get out of it are far more dense than what you'd see from the stock cap. That fear of undercooking half the bowl disappears entirely when the whole tip is getting bombarded with bonus heat from the wraps.
Nope, just wrapped untreated. I ran the unit for one empty heat cycle after each set of wraps to burn off any sweat or other residue that had accumulated on the wire while wrapping, but no other treatment beforehand. I was able to get good results just anchoring the wire to itself/the digger outer, and a part of me wonders if over time the heating/cooling cycles will cause the wires to eventually hold their shape by themselves. Probably not, but if I ever have to undo/redo my wraps for some reason, I'll let all of you know how the wires behave.
I don't own an IH (yet ;D) so I can't do any testing there. I'd predict you'd get one of two results: Either the outer wrap and inner steel tip would heat simultaneously and you'd get some amazing heat soaking throughout, or the outer wrap would "absorb" all the induction heating and the steel tip would only receive the conduction heat from the outer wraps. I'd think the former is more likely than the latter, but I haven't looked far enough into IHs and am not familiar enough with electromagnetism to say for sure. Either way, it should be possible to at least get satisfactory performance using an IH, but I think you'd likely need an IH with adjustable output to fine tune things to be really properly usable. This is completely speculation, but I'd imagine to get the best results you'd have to use lower heating settings, otherwise the outer coil may not have time to warm significantly by the time the inner tip is hot.
Either way, it'll be important to make sure whatever wraps you do will actually still fit in the hole of your IH. This is part of why I recommend the thinner gauge wrap to everyone, because it really didn't increase the diameter by a noticeable amount, while the thicker gauge wraps do increase the girth of the cap pretty substantially. If your vapcap is already a tight fit in your IH, I doubt the thicker gauge wire will be compatible.
Here's an album with both types of wraps, as well as single-cycle results.
That's really why I posted my results with this method here. Even though I'm sure the anvil has a number of advantages over this homebrewed setup, I think it's really important to let people know about the really cheap ways you can still get remotely comparable results. IMO, while the pursuit of the perfect, artisan vaping experience is really important, I think it's also equally important to remember the broke newbies that don't want to have to chuck $150+ at a device to maybe get OK results.
I'm still just floored that I'm getting such satisfying vapor out of a setup that only cost me around $75-80 in the end. I've spent this little on vapes before (like the shitty APX ones you see in head shops all over), but never gotten this good of results out of such a tiny load. If I'd had a setup like this to try out in my early days of hemp use years ago, I feel like I would've gotten so much more mileage out of my consumption over the years. I still love my electronic portables like my HR Edge, but for solo use, the bowl sizes I have to use in that unit to get satisfying hits end up building my tolerance way too quickly.
Eventually I'm sure the VAS bug will work its way under my skin again to make me start pursuing some other fantastic microdosing device, but honestly, the wrapped dyna is pretty much everything I've been looking for in a DHE device for awhile now. I'm able to satisfy my urge to finish a bowl in one session so it doesn't lose potency, and I get such satisfying, full vapor, but I'm using an amount that would barely produce a mist over a couple minutes in my other devices.
Great idea! I think one of the overlooked innovations of the Anvil, or at least, overshadowed by the copper battery, is the "floating" herb chamber. I think the indirect heating plays a significant part in the performance of the device. To that end, I also started to experiment with my VapCap setup a few months ago to see if I could apply something similar to it. I settled on a configuration that consists of a cap that sits so loose, gravity will separate it from the tip when held upside down connected to an old 18mm Milaana short stem. I overheat until about 6-8 seconds after the click, but using this method, the click actually becomes sort of irrelevant.
In addition to the loose cap, I reasoned that the reduced surface contact with the tip would require a longer heat cycle so I decided to ignore the click completely and focus specifically on timing. After a bunch of testing, I've settled in at 16-18 seconds heating using a Pipes heater and this gives me a really thick, great tasting heat cycle that has a vapour production window of 20-25 seconds, which is more than enough to clear a bowl in one hit, or one and a small clean up hit as my ex-smokers lungs permit:
AVB comes out a touch lighter than coffee brown and the sessions can be very consistently replicated. I believe I can achieve something very close with most tip/cap combinations but the timing of the heat cycle may differ.
Using the Anvil gave me a different perspective on how I use my VCs. I had been slowly going down this path already, but the floating chamber sort of inspired me to try this. I find it works very well, is quite effective and very easy to replicate.
Apologies for the terrible phone pics, I have been too lazy to pull out my camera. AVB:
Just for reference, the volume of the Sphere in the video is pretty large at 1000ml I believe. For those unfamiliar, to give a better idea of the volume of vapour that was produced, here are some comparison pics:
True, but I was just too lazy to try to find an object with the right diameter for that
Besides, with all the tension I was able to apply throughout the wrapping process, surely the wire is making better thermal contact with the cap... or some other pseudosciencey justification for why I decided to take the hard road :^)
Plus, if you do the wraps off-cap like you suggest, you could get away with a single layer of the thicker gauge wire since you wouldn't be forced to anchor it on anything
Does anyone else think the whole "Dynavap doesn't have good flavor" thing is a little bit overblown? When I don't get good flavor I wasn't following the strategy for getting good flavor. I also don't think it should be a knock on Dynavap that you have to keep it clean to maintain good flavor.
Nowadays if I'm not in a hurry, I heat it like the Vapman (this is on a Titanium Simrell Vortex XL with tri-flame torch), letting off the heat way before the click. I'll do this a few times even and really taste what there is to taste.
I just had a really nice tasting sesh with 0.05, granted I just cleaned the device but I was still getting good terpish flavor 4-5 hits in, which everyone seems to think is impossible to do on a DV, ever since the Anvil was released. Lol. The 3rd hit was that really nice thick and tasty cloud. And I realized it's harder than I thought to get that from my Dynavap. But if I'm just more mindful I should be able to hit that every time I session with it.
The "problem" arises when I try to use it as a 1-hitter (2-3 hitter IRL) and smash it fast. This is just IME. Some people have talked about doing 1-hitters to get the best flavor from a DV but every time I do that the flavor is not as good as if I heat low and slow.
Perhaps the Anvil is engineered in a way that makes it easier for the user to replicate that perfect thick flavorbomb hit (that I admittedly still struggle to get every time I use the DV)? I could see that. But I'm NOT gonna say that it doesn't exist on the DV. I've gotten that hit many times now. The hit that you just know is supreme. But that hit is more elusive on the DV than I would like.
I can fuck up the technique on a all-glass pathway convection vape and get mediocre flavor too, ya know....(I have many times, lol.)
half bowl hash is the real deal ... 2 sec after the click very fast spinning ... WOW .. 100% vapor the hash is not 100% gone but I replaced the bowl anyway
For those doing the “cap wrap” mod- you say that you have to torch quite past the click to get the bowl to temp.
Have you tried using the same sort of torch you would use with an anvil? I wonder if there’s some sort of sweet spot you can find with a bigger flame that can pump enough heat in by click time. Although I imagine the Anvil disks are clicking at a different temp to account for the additional mass.
Looking for a reliable pants pocket carry lighter for the DV and Anvil. Considering the DV Duality which has been out in the wild for a while now. Does anyone have experience with this lighter who could offer an opinion as to it’s build quality and reliability? Thanks.
Looking for a reliable pants pocket carry lighter for the DV and Anvil. Considering the DV Duality which has been out in the wild for a while now. Does anyone have experience with this lighter who could offer an opinion as to it’s build quality and reliability? Thanks.
The DV sub Reddit despises them! If I remember right, DV were also trying to give them away.
The ignition system is finicky when on dual flame mode as it only sparks the first jet and uses that to spark the second. Also heard reports of them turning into flamethrowers.
VVAY Turbo Jet Lighter Gas Butane Refillable,Adjustable Flame, Windproof Torch Lighter (Sold without Gas): VVAY Turbo Jet Lighter Gas Butane Refillable,Adjustable Flame, Windproof Torch Lighter (Sold without Gas): Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen
www.amazon.co.uk
This one here has been great for me, replaceable flint ignition too so it should theoretically be a life long torch if you use quality butane. Hands free operating is also possible as it stays on when sparked until you close the lid. Nice fuel tank too, I’ll usually get a good day out of it with a bowl every hour or two
EDIT: just seen you want it for anvil use too, it’s good but not able to RTL.. my bad I should read better
. With the additional mass now involved do you think that it could still be heated sufficiently in a IH?
![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
