Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
My_50p_worth
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure actually!
I’m a max heat max extraction guy, sessions to me are just a long walk to the same place I could take the water slide down to haha
I like with Anvil I can just heat it once and sip away on it for 60 seconds with no vapour drop off until right at the end. So I suppose that’s a session of sorts, albeit one more in line with sessioning an actual joint than a vape session - which is the exact experience I’m looking for
I get the impression vestratto aren’t doing the helix chamber anymore, so it’s just nice to have the option of some conduction vapour before bed
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
A legendary tip indeed!After getting my Anvil I sold all the DV’s I owned and thought I’d exited the dynaverse for good.
Well.. I just got offered a shOmni brand new. I now have an Anvil and a short omni on the way
There’s one left on herbivorez and some on Vapefiend by the way. Easy way to get a guaranteed 2018 cap and 3 position 5 fin tip in the UK
I only use the older 7 & 5 fin tips with the 3 positions - they run hotter than the later tips in my experience and the 3/4 bowl size is my go to.
StringTheorista
Well-Known Member
*advertised* at $77.77, but then given away to everyone who signed up. But that was a couple years ago, and the dynaverse has gotten much bigger, and folks are hungry for the older, “rarer” stuff now. Which there isn’t as much of as people want
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
Plus, I am pretty sure that Dynavap took the idea of fins and tried to improve the idea behind it. the Omni's 21' tip for example.... it is not exactly fins, because fins are meant to cool, just to cool because of how it is built.
the engravings/carvings on the Omni 21' tip are more like hybrid-heating-retention idea - engravings, carvings on the tip..other than fins.... the heat, maybe, is being more retented? like... I really can see it developed this way hehe, need to try and examine the differences myself...
The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
I scored two on that promotion. I was blown away. I still love them both and tend to put them on my favorite stems.
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
I got my anvil, played with it for less then a week and sold it. I used it with both IH and butane torch.
The only pro for me is the consistency and ease of duplicating hits via a butane torch, every other thing about it was annoying.
Flavor was REALLY poor, aiming high/medium/low all changed the flavor but this tasted like shit and I could never get a full terpy mouth taste no matter how high I was heating near the clicker - imo this is what you get for heating/cooking the chamber for 40ish secs before drawing.
Loading of bowl is extremely annoying - its threaded and designed so the herb always falls into your condenser forcing you to smash your bowl tight - so no loose airy packs ever.
I just dont see the rage my Dynavaps are way cheaper and hit just as hard, and I want to say this is now the 4th device this forum has hyped up but ultimately the unit(s) are just subpar, imo not ready for primetime and needs a new rev update or 2, unfortunately way to much fake hypetrain pushes them to market quickly. Other devices this forum has recommend, my findings are spot on, this and the few others devices im like my view is 180 degrees opposite haha.
The only pro for me is the consistency and ease of duplicating hits via a butane torch, every other thing about it was annoying.
Flavor was REALLY poor, aiming high/medium/low all changed the flavor but this tasted like shit and I could never get a full terpy mouth taste no matter how high I was heating near the clicker - imo this is what you get for heating/cooking the chamber for 40ish secs before drawing.
Loading of bowl is extremely annoying - its threaded and designed so the herb always falls into your condenser forcing you to smash your bowl tight - so no loose airy packs ever.
I just dont see the rage my Dynavaps are way cheaper and hit just as hard, and I want to say this is now the 4th device this forum has hyped up but ultimately the unit(s) are just subpar, imo not ready for primetime and needs a new rev update or 2, unfortunately way to much fake hypetrain pushes them to market quickly. Other devices this forum has recommend, my findings are spot on, this and the few others devices im like my view is 180 degrees opposite haha.
Last edited:
Know that this isn't the appropriate thread for it, but this is where the comment fell. But I disagree on almost all of these points on the Anvil.
Love my Dynavaps, but Anvil is a true portable heavy heater. Not too far behind ball vapes. ADV has never whitewalled my GravUpline Bubbler like the Anvil has. As for loose packing, sounds like you are doing it upside down. Pack the bowl with the clicker facing down, then lower the stem onto it.
And you will not get an ideal hit from the Anvil from the Wand. You get something, but it and other DV IHs just aren't powerful enough to approach the quality you can achieve from a torch like the Blazer BT-4000 or Firefox.
DVs and Anvil are neck and neck for me in terms of flavor. Only difference I've noticed there is if one or the other accidentally combusted. And I can't think of any reason they would differ much from each other in terms of flavor, as long as you are using both correctly. And based on everything you wrote above, my best guess is that you were not using the Anvil correctly/never developed the appropriate technique for the type of hits you are looking for.
Both truly are great. But wanted to reply here to let folks not on the Anvil thread that this seems to be an outlier opinion on the device. And there are a number of established, reliable folks for vape reviews like Troy, Jerry, Scott fromVGoodiez and Sneaky Pete who have Anvils now and will surely be making comparisons of their own to DV.
Still love my Dynavap & stem collection, and hard to imagine them not being in the rotation. OK, back to our regularly scheduled DV program.
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
Cool but I talked to two others and they mimic my findings, the flavor is poor.
I think majority of dynavap users don't know how to dial their hits in to exactly what they prefer, I can make the dynavaps hit identical (1pull full extraction) but taste 1000% better then anvil. But most dynavap users do not extract in 1 go.
Also it's interesting other vape makers say heavy milking is a waste like your body can't fully consume it - the vapbong maker has multiple videos explaining why he advises this. I think you can fully feel it in 1 hit, but maybe it's from holding your breathe in for so long haha
Comfortably Numb
Well-Known Member
I have never been a flavor chaser....I have several Dynavaps and a log vape also...just never noticed much flavor....the Anvil opened my eyes...it is a flavor bomb
thunderstealer1337
Well-Known Member
hmm maybe work on your technique, the flavor is tremendously better on dynavaps, not sure how you would get better flavor when your literally cooking the herb for 40+ secs long, with dynavap I am getting great terpene flavor on 1st sec of heating with IH. Not waiting for 40 secs of sitting in a heated chamber where all the terpenes dissipate and then hit it.
Comfortably Numb
Well-Known Member
you are not cooking the herb for 40+ sec.....you are heating a oven then drawing air thru the bowl that is suspended in the oven
I have several Dynavaps....they have been my main driver off and on for sometime....def not a expert...but better than average...
The vapor is so dense in the Anvil the flavor explodes...
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
Totally agree with you but - Choices + opinions = arguements!!!!!
Last edited:
jabba
Well-Known Member
Simrell is again offering the shortex as of yesterday which had been discontinued for some time....in a sandblasted version only for now. Funny that my old shortex was already in my rotation for this week and I had been admiring it yet again at the time of this new re-release. More interestingly I recently sold my MVS and my Vortex XL....as they were just taking up space and not getting much use.....but I never considered selling the shortex. Not affiliated....but if any of you have a spare tip/cap around and were looking for a shorty....these are really lovely. The XL was lovely too....but I seemed to favor other XL's. I really like the Simrell unibody designs.....no o-rings.....dead simple....elegant....easy to clean.
Last edited:
TommyDee
Vaporitor
With ya all the way. Those half-bowls tend to be much more consistent and hard hitting.I consistently get great flavor with my dynavap but I only do half-packs now. For the best experience you never want to reheat a pack IMO, just reload as needed. Here is what I'm generally left with after 1 heat cycle:
Demonic chronic
Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴🇺🇦
Think I’m set for a weekend visit
, about 4g’s unknown haze will hopeful last me.
, about 4g’s unknown haze will hopeful last me.
Last edited:
Smokey McVape
Well-Known Member
Nice!Think I’m set for a weekend visit
Is that the medium or large Riot case?
Demonic chronic
Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴🇺🇦
According to vapefiend the site I bough it from it’s the small They only have small or large. Only reason I went for the small is cause it snugly fits the pocket friend, omnivong/vong (i) and just the essentials not much more, I like to travel as light as possible, a plus being the small it took up less luggage space
. It’s worked great for me on my lasts 2 trips to Amsterdam.
Last edited:
3l3tric
Well-Known Member
Hi friends! It's been a minute since I've checked in with this thread, and I figure now's a good time to give an update on my impressions with my 20M since I've been doing some tinkering recently with wire wraps.
In stock form, I've been using the M primarily as a microdosing machine. My vaping philosophy is to try to get the most efficient extraction, which means trying to keep the bowl at vapor-producing temperatures for as long as possible, since keeping the herbs at temps just below that range causes cannabinoid degradation fairly rapidly. This clashes a bit with the dyna, as by design, the unit will always be losing thermal energy throughout the hit. However, I learned to get decent results by focusing on torch technique and taking the bowl reliably into the (assumed) 400+ deg range.
These techniques really just try to heat soak the bowl as thoroughly as possible while taking the bowl to high temperatures to make sure that the herbs produce vapor as long as possible. While this is fine when those high-temp effects are desired, often I'd rather stay in a lower temperature range to reduce the quantity of cannabinoids and terpenes that contribute to the sedative effects of vaping. This, of course, contradicts with our desire to get efficient extractions out of the dyna, since low temping will end up significantly reducing the amount of time the herbs spend in the useful vapor-producing temperature range.
So, in order to low temp, we need something that will make the dyna stay at our desired temps for longer. Or, in other words, we need something to add more thermal mass to the vapcap.
Enter wire wrapping.
Yesterday, I picked up a couple gauges of SS316L wire (normally used for e-cig coil builds) and wrapped my vapcap. I decided to leave out copper for now, and honestly, my results with pure stainless were good enough that I doubt I'll ever bother trying a copper build.
The thicker wire changed the session pretty dramatically, and at least for my use cases, for the better. The click takes way longer to arrive using my original torch technique, but the added dissipation from the extra wire mass lets me use bigger torch sizes without risk of overheating the outer parts of the bowl. Once I got the bigger flame size/closer flame position dialed in, the unit only took a few extra seconds to click compared to before. With a couple seconds of past-click heating, I'm able to handily extract the whole .05g within one extended draw, and heating just to the click gives me a very satisfying lower temp draw (if I had to estimate, around 380 deg) that produces vapor far longer than similar temps on the stock configuration. In general, the extra mass keeps the whole cap hot enough to fully extract the bowl in 1-2 hits, even at lower temperatures that would take the stock unit 5+ hits to fully extract.
I've never had the luxury of trying an Anvil (or a Lotus... or any other butane vape for that matter D: ), but I've gotta say, the thick gauge wrapped setup really scratches the itch I've had for a good one-hitter microdoser for awhile. I feel like one of the biggest hurdles to getting good results out of microdosing is being able to get very thorough extractions in just one draw. With such little material to work with, having to split the herb into 2-3 separate puffs often gives unsatisfying results since each individual hit feels "too small". In the stock setup, I was never satisfied with the hits I'd get from microdosing unless I really tried to hit the upper end of the vaping temperature range. The wirewrapped setup really lets microdoses shine, providing single hits with a .05g load about as large as any individual hit you'd get out of a session with .2g+ in some other vapes, and at far lower temperatures than stock.
I've written a whole damn novel here about why I think wire wrapping is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I'll leave you all with a last tidbit that I think says more about how much I'm enjoying these results than anything else I could tell you; I still haven't gotten around to trying the .1g bowl setting with the wire wrapped config.
And to be honest, I'm kinda scared to.
TL;DR If you like heavy hits/microdosing efficiently, give wire wrapping a try. I got really good results out of a single layer of thin gauge wire overlaid with 2 layers of thick gauge wire, effectively turning my 20M into an Anvil. Low temping especially benefits from wrapping.
In stock form, I've been using the M primarily as a microdosing machine. My vaping philosophy is to try to get the most efficient extraction, which means trying to keep the bowl at vapor-producing temperatures for as long as possible, since keeping the herbs at temps just below that range causes cannabinoid degradation fairly rapidly. This clashes a bit with the dyna, as by design, the unit will always be losing thermal energy throughout the hit. However, I learned to get decent results by focusing on torch technique and taking the bowl reliably into the (assumed) 400+ deg range.
-Unfortunately, there are no cheat codes to get around the fact that herbs just don't conduct heat that well. The middle part of the bowl is gonna take a while to heat up to our desired temps, and so you'll get the best results with torch techniques that heat pretty "mildly" (small flame sizes, holding the cap just above the tip) compared to techniques that heat aggressively (big flame, holding the cap in the tip of the flame).
-Learning how to properly time torching past the click is a must, especially in the first 1-2 heating cycles. This requires understanding the way your torch position affects the click and bowl temp relationship. The further you move the torch flame down the cap, the less the heat from the torch will directly influence the temperature of the discs in the cap. Imagining the most extreme example, if you hold the flame right over the discs ridge at the tip of the cap, the discs will heat very rapidly and click before the bowl gets much of a chance to see any of the heat, and you'll never get any vapor. In contrast, if you hold the flame just before the end of the cap on the body side, the discs will heat far more slowly since they're out of the direct hotspot from the torch flame. I've found the best spot to hold the flame is around where the dimples on the captive cap are, which corresponds to just below the main metal part of the actual bowl. For the first heat cycle, I continue to torch for a full 3-4 seconds past the click, then for subsequent cycles only 1-2 seconds. This may sound like a lot, but keep in mind this is with a barely 3/4in tall single torch.
-Learning how to properly time torching past the click is a must, especially in the first 1-2 heating cycles. This requires understanding the way your torch position affects the click and bowl temp relationship. The further you move the torch flame down the cap, the less the heat from the torch will directly influence the temperature of the discs in the cap. Imagining the most extreme example, if you hold the flame right over the discs ridge at the tip of the cap, the discs will heat very rapidly and click before the bowl gets much of a chance to see any of the heat, and you'll never get any vapor. In contrast, if you hold the flame just before the end of the cap on the body side, the discs will heat far more slowly since they're out of the direct hotspot from the torch flame. I've found the best spot to hold the flame is around where the dimples on the captive cap are, which corresponds to just below the main metal part of the actual bowl. For the first heat cycle, I continue to torch for a full 3-4 seconds past the click, then for subsequent cycles only 1-2 seconds. This may sound like a lot, but keep in mind this is with a barely 3/4in tall single torch.
These techniques really just try to heat soak the bowl as thoroughly as possible while taking the bowl to high temperatures to make sure that the herbs produce vapor as long as possible. While this is fine when those high-temp effects are desired, often I'd rather stay in a lower temperature range to reduce the quantity of cannabinoids and terpenes that contribute to the sedative effects of vaping. This, of course, contradicts with our desire to get efficient extractions out of the dyna, since low temping will end up significantly reducing the amount of time the herbs spend in the useful vapor-producing temperature range.
So, in order to low temp, we need something that will make the dyna stay at our desired temps for longer. Or, in other words, we need something to add more thermal mass to the vapcap.
Enter wire wrapping.
Yesterday, I picked up a couple gauges of SS316L wire (normally used for e-cig coil builds) and wrapped my vapcap. I decided to leave out copper for now, and honestly, my results with pure stainless were good enough that I doubt I'll ever bother trying a copper build.
I started with a single layer of very fine gauge wire, and first anchored on the disc side of the cap. I then held the wire taut while twisting the whole unit and pressed the wraps together with my fingernail as I went down the cap, securing on the "digger outer" side with a couple loops. This first set really didn't add a lot to the mass of the cap, but also didn't really change the way it behaved with my normal torch technique. Even if you don't really think adding thick wire wraps will be for you, I'd still highly recommend at least trying a wrap with a fine gauge (32g or higher), as all the subtle changes I noticed were positive and it didn't really change the "feel" at all. Using the torch identically to how I would without the wraps, the click was just delayed by a couple seconds, and the unit seemed to produce vapor just a bit longer.
The real differences came when I added an additional layer of thicker gauge wire. This time, since I couldn't anchor the wire on the digger-outer, I decided to do 2 sets of wraps so that I could anchor the end of the wire against its start. The inner layer of wraps was kept as tight as possible (and I left the thinner gauge wire underneath), while the outer layer was a bit more spaced apart (I didn't want to try to wrap the second layer too tight and push the loops of the first layer apart).
The real differences came when I added an additional layer of thicker gauge wire. This time, since I couldn't anchor the wire on the digger-outer, I decided to do 2 sets of wraps so that I could anchor the end of the wire against its start. The inner layer of wraps was kept as tight as possible (and I left the thinner gauge wire underneath), while the outer layer was a bit more spaced apart (I didn't want to try to wrap the second layer too tight and push the loops of the first layer apart).
The thicker wire changed the session pretty dramatically, and at least for my use cases, for the better. The click takes way longer to arrive using my original torch technique, but the added dissipation from the extra wire mass lets me use bigger torch sizes without risk of overheating the outer parts of the bowl. Once I got the bigger flame size/closer flame position dialed in, the unit only took a few extra seconds to click compared to before. With a couple seconds of past-click heating, I'm able to handily extract the whole .05g within one extended draw, and heating just to the click gives me a very satisfying lower temp draw (if I had to estimate, around 380 deg) that produces vapor far longer than similar temps on the stock configuration. In general, the extra mass keeps the whole cap hot enough to fully extract the bowl in 1-2 hits, even at lower temperatures that would take the stock unit 5+ hits to fully extract.
I've never had the luxury of trying an Anvil (or a Lotus... or any other butane vape for that matter D: ), but I've gotta say, the thick gauge wrapped setup really scratches the itch I've had for a good one-hitter microdoser for awhile. I feel like one of the biggest hurdles to getting good results out of microdosing is being able to get very thorough extractions in just one draw. With such little material to work with, having to split the herb into 2-3 separate puffs often gives unsatisfying results since each individual hit feels "too small". In the stock setup, I was never satisfied with the hits I'd get from microdosing unless I really tried to hit the upper end of the vaping temperature range. The wirewrapped setup really lets microdoses shine, providing single hits with a .05g load about as large as any individual hit you'd get out of a session with .2g+ in some other vapes, and at far lower temperatures than stock.
I've written a whole damn novel here about why I think wire wrapping is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I'll leave you all with a last tidbit that I think says more about how much I'm enjoying these results than anything else I could tell you; I still haven't gotten around to trying the .1g bowl setting with the wire wrapped config.
And to be honest, I'm kinda scared to.
TL;DR If you like heavy hits/microdosing efficiently, give wire wrapping a try. I got really good results out of a single layer of thin gauge wire overlaid with 2 layers of thick gauge wire, effectively turning my 20M into an Anvil. Low temping especially benefits from wrapping.
Md_Hybrid
Stuck under a 🪵
Hi friends! It's been a minute since I've checked in with this thread, and I figure now's a good time to give an update on my impressions with my 20M since I've been doing some tinkering recently with wire wraps.
In stock form, I've been using the M primarily as a microdosing machine. My vaping philosophy is to try to get the most efficient extraction, which means trying to keep the bowl at vapor-producing temperatures for as long as possible, since keeping the herbs at temps just below that range causes cannabinoid degradation fairly rapidly. This clashes a bit with the dyna, as by design, the unit will always be losing thermal energy throughout the hit. However, I learned to get decent results by focusing on torch technique and taking the bowl reliably into the (assumed) 400+ deg range.
-Unfortunately, there are no cheat codes to get around the fact that herbs just don't conduct heat that well. The middle part of the bowl is gonna take a while to heat up to our desired temps, and so you'll get the best results with torch techniques that heat pretty "mildly" (small flame sizes, holding the cap just above the tip) compared to techniques that heat aggressively (big flame, holding the cap in the tip of the flame).
-Learning how to properly time torching past the click is a must, especially in the first 1-2 heating cycles. This requires understanding the way your torch position affects the click and bowl temp relationship. The further you move the torch flame down the cap, the less the heat from the torch will directly influence the temperature of the discs in the cap. Imagining the most extreme example, if you hold the flame right over the discs ridge at the tip of the cap, the discs will heat very rapidly and click before the bowl gets much of a chance to see any of the heat, and you'll never get any vapor. In contrast, if you hold the flame just before the end of the cap on the body side, the discs will heat far more slowly since they're out of the direct hotspot from the torch flame. I've found the best spot to hold the flame is around where the dimples on the captive cap are, which corresponds to just below the main metal part of the actual bowl. For the first heat cycle, I continue to torch for a full 3-4 seconds past the click, then for subsequent cycles only 1-2 seconds. This may sound like a lot, but keep in mind this is with a barely 3/4in tall single torch.
These techniques really just try to heat soak the bowl as thoroughly as possible while taking the bowl to high temperatures to make sure that the herbs produce vapor as long as possible. While this is fine when those high-temp effects are desired, often I'd rather stay in a lower temperature range to reduce the quantity of cannabinoids and terpenes that contribute to the sedative effects of vaping. This, of course, contradicts with our desire to get efficient extractions out of the dyna, since low temping will end up significantly reducing the amount of time the herbs spend in the useful vapor-producing temperature range.
So, in order to low temp, we need something that will make the dyna stay at our desired temps for longer. Or, in other words, we need something to add more thermal mass to the vapcap.
Enter wire wrapping.
Yesterday, I picked up a couple gauges of SS316L wire (normally used for e-cig coil builds) and wrapped my vapcap. I decided to leave out copper for now, and honestly, my results with pure stainless were good enough that I doubt I'll ever bother trying a copper build.
I started with a single layer of very fine gauge wire, and first anchored on the disc side of the cap. I then held the wire taut while twisting the whole unit and pressed the wraps together with my fingernail as I went down the cap, securing on the "digger outer" side with a couple loops. This first set really didn't add a lot to the mass of the cap, but also didn't really change the way it behaved with my normal torch technique. Even if you don't really think adding thick wire wraps will be for you, I'd still highly recommend at least trying a wrap with a fine gauge (32g or higher), as all the subtle changes I noticed were positive and it didn't really change the "feel" at all. Using the torch identically to how I would without the wraps, the click was just delayed by a couple seconds, and the unit seemed to produce vapor just a bit longer.
The real differences came when I added an additional layer of thicker gauge wire. This time, since I couldn't anchor the wire on the digger-outer, I decided to do 2 sets of wraps so that I could anchor the end of the wire against its start. The inner layer of wraps was kept as tight as possible (and I left the thinner gauge wire underneath), while the outer layer was a bit more spaced apart (I didn't want to try to wrap the second layer too tight and push the loops of the first layer apart).
The thicker wire changed the session pretty dramatically, and at least for my use cases, for the better. The click takes way longer to arrive using my original torch technique, but the added dissipation from the extra wire mass lets me use bigger torch sizes without risk of overheating the outer parts of the bowl. Once I got the bigger flame size/closer flame position dialed in, the unit only took a few extra seconds to click compared to before. With a couple seconds of past-click heating, I'm able to handily extract the whole .05g within one extended draw, and heating just to the click gives me a very satisfying lower temp draw (if I had to estimate, around 380 deg) that produces vapor far longer than similar temps on the stock configuration. In general, the extra mass keeps the whole cap hot enough to fully extract the bowl in 1-2 hits, even at lower temperatures that would take the stock unit 5+ hits to fully extract.
I've never had the luxury of trying an Anvil (or a Lotus... or any other butane vape for that matter D: ), but I've gotta say, the thick gauge wrapped setup really scratches the itch I've had for a good one-hitter microdoser for awhile. I feel like one of the biggest hurdles to getting good results out of microdosing is being able to get very thorough extractions in just one draw. With such little material to work with, having to split the herb into 2-3 separate puffs often gives unsatisfying results since each individual hit feels "too small". In the stock setup, I was never satisfied with the hits I'd get from microdosing unless I really tried to hit the upper end of the vaping temperature range. The wirewrapped setup really lets microdoses shine, providing single hits with a .05g load about as large as any individual hit you'd get out of a session with .2g+ in some other vapes, and at far lower temperatures than stock.
I've written a whole damn novel here about why I think wire wrapping is the greatest thing since sliced bread, but I'll leave you all with a last tidbit that I think says more about how much I'm enjoying these results than anything else I could tell you; I still haven't gotten around to trying the .1g bowl setting with the wire wrapped config.
And to be honest, I'm kinda scared to.
TL;DR If you like heavy hits/microdosing efficiently, give wire wrapping a try. I got really good results out of a single layer of thin gauge wire overlaid with 2 layers of thick gauge wire, effectively turning my 20M into an Anvil. Low temping especially benefits from wrapping.
I'm intrigued, do you happen to know the gauge of the wire you used?
Mya Moe guy
Member
Me too .