Sweet-vapour-69420

Well-Known Member
I'd love to get a true analysis of the material to know what the actual difference is. I suspect it has to do with chromium content in the stainless steel. I also suspect that they are harder to form during fabrication. They probably came from an alternate supplier and that is why there is so much variation.
There’s definitely a difference for sure. See I’ve noticed that the metal is a lot easier to bend, whenever I get a pre-19 cap I always notice the extra force needed to adjust the fit. They seem tougher too - drops that would dent a new cap often don’t dent an old cap. Not that they’re dent proof of course.

The thickness seems similar, which leaves the composition of the alloy as the potential culprit like you say. They seem to perform similar with a torch, but IH is where you really notice the new cap/old cap gap
 
Sweet-vapour-69420,
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Exactly. Interesting note on work hardening;

Can 420 stainless steel be hardened?


It has good ductility it the annealed condition but is capable of being hardened to a minimum Rockwell hardness of 50 HRC, the highest hardness of the 12% chromium grades. Due to its hardening properties, Alloy 420 is not often welded, although it is possible.

Therefore they fully anneal the cap and then draw it through progressive dies to make the closed-ended tube. This work-hardens the material as you progress through the die sets. Copper is a great example of work-hardening where repeated bending of wire eventually breaks it.

What I like about the hotter caps is that they do an excellent job of directing heat to the center of the load. These caps make combustion much easier but not along the chamber walls. More often than not, combustion is a coal in the very center of the load. Removing the cap just before ignition prevents the load from combusting. The density of the vape is so much thicker than anything I do on regular daily sessions with lesser caps. They require a little more diligence. Alas, this unique performance hasn't been matched with offerings in recent years.

My experience - gain-ratio measurements - IH current with the VC divided by IH current without the VC 4A over 1A for instance... is a 4:1 GR cap
I have 6.0, 6.2, and 6.0 caps as my hottest. They all have DYn-nnnn serial numbers.
5:1 is my '18 VapCap - no serial number
4:1 are several early and late '19 caps & my original C-Vap logo'd DD cap. Either external serial numbers or inside digger. This includes a '19 PhantoM.
3.x non-captive caps are from the parts department at Dynavap. Daily drivers.
2.high-x was my 2020 cap.

4:1 caps are comfortable. They rarely combust and they provide good heat and a solid draw without dipping to get a full set of lungs.
6:1 caps are a treat but require attention. Almost like drinking your vape. Some strains can be too much even for the best iron-lungs out there.
 
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Sweet-vapour-69420

Well-Known Member
Exactly. Interesting note on work hardening;



Therefore they fully anneal the cap and then draw it through progressive dies to make the closed-ended tube. This work-hardens the material as you progress through the die sets. Copper is a great example of work-hardening where repeated bending of wire eventually breaks it.

What I like about the hotter caps is that they do an excellent job of directing heat to the center of the load. These caps make combustion much easier but not along the chamber walls. More often than not, combustion is a coal in the very center of the load. Removing the cap just before ignition prevents the load from combusting. The density of the vape is so much thicker than anything I do on regular daily sessions with lesser caps. They require a little more diligence. Alas, this unique performance hasn't been matched with offerings in recent years.

My experience - gain-ratio measurements - IH current with the VC divided by IH current without the VC 4A over 1A for instance... is a 4:1 GR cap
I have 6.0, 6.2, and 6.0 caps as my hottest. They all have DYn-nnnn serial numbers.
5:1 is my '18 VapCap - no serial number
4:1 are several early and late '19 caps & my original C-Vap logo'd DD cap. Either external serial numbers or inside digger. This includes a '19 PhantoM.
3.x non-captive caps are from the parts department at Dynavap. Daily drivers.
2.high-x was my 2020 cap.

4:1 caps are comfortable. They rarely combust and they provide good heat and a solid draw without dipping to get a full set of lungs.
6:1 caps are a treat but require attention. Almost like drinking your vape. Some strains can be too much even for the best iron-lungs out there.
That was a fascinating read, thanks for that dude! I love that you actually went out of your way to objectively show that there is a difference, it’s very useful info for those of us that are primary IH - which caps have a huge effect on

The best cap I ever had was one with a “click… “two second gap” … CLICK” pattern, torch or IH it just worked better than the others. That click pattern was always consistent regardless of heating method. I sadly dropped it after a few too many pints of nectar, and couldn’t ever get the clicks back :( seemed to change the way it heated and held heat as well? Which doesn’t make sense to me

I’ve not had one like it since, but I’ve got serialised *DYn-nnnn* caps like you mention which are a comfy middle ground. The click gap is very short though. I liked the longer gap as you could say tune the IH to the second click for SS and the first for Ti. These caps don’t allow for it as they click at the same time more or less.

Although I think once the Sense IH comes out, we won’t be worrying about caps too much at all as you can just set a temp and let it heat soak in theory. One hit extraction every time if you want it.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
You said a mouthful there, and thank you. Indeed, someone coined the separation between click an 'honest two clicks', like my original '18-M, a wide separation. It would come back and click the second cooldown click far after I put the thing away too. I know today that DV crimps the clickers into the cap but I don't know if that has always been the case.

I dropped my '18 too but the profile survived. Still wrenched about that. Seems we cannot avoid a dent at some point. These things act like darts when you have a lightweight stem attached to it.

Although the Sense will let us regulate power levels and even temp level, there is still a difference between these older caps and newer caps. My only explanation has something to do with 'heat capacity' but I don't know to apply it with certainty. You have to factor in how the cap is recharged with the tip during the draw. Contact area and proximity with the tip is a big factor.

I hope the winds get back to George and maybe he can look at some vendor history, do a metallurgical analysis, and offer "Mild -zesty - & spicy" caps as part of their portfolio of offerings. I see a marketable product in there and should quell the 'heat battery' cap demand.
 

Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
Well after a wee while with the new vong (i) it’s a great device, used a recently bought cap when I bought it and it was good but now using a new but old 2020 standard cap and it’s went form good to outstanding, I always reliably get 2 bongs from a bowl and get dark avb, that’s exactly the same as my omivong, pretty impressive. Milks up a
250ml bong pretty nice as well.:sherlock:
 
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Demonic chronic

Chronic Connoisseur. Butane power✊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇺🇦
Well after a wee while with the new vong (i) it’s a great device, used a recently bought cap when I bought it and it was good but now using a new but old 2020 standard cap and it’s went form good to outstanding, I always reliably get 2 bongs from a bowl and get dark avb, that’s exactly the same as my omivong, pretty impressive. Milks up a
250ml bong pretty nice as well.:sherlock:
Milks this thing great, this is
73-BB7-B1-D-2559-4-B0-C-8490-AEC364-DBE7-CD.jpg
my daily driver and has been for years now, found it 2 be the best size Bong (250ml) for a decent size hit for the bowl size of the dynavap, tried other sized bongs, it’s also got a diffuser which is probs over kill:lol:, but I think it pulls better because of it and gives a nice smooth hit and looks good for those of us who like our glass, any ways Im rambling and talking bollocks now.:rofl:
 
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Flambeau

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever created a screw-on omni mouthpiece that also acts as a 10mm WPA?

Y'know, something that looks like the Simrell mouthpiece, but bolts onto an omni condenser?
 
Flambeau,

666Honeybadger

Well-Known Member
DynaStraw, a 21m without airport
That doesn't sound exciting...
What's the point of taking out the airport? Then there is no way to adjust te draw/airflow and more importantly no way to cool the vapor anymore... And it's not like it delivers cool vapor with an airport so now it will be straight throat-scorching vapor all the way...
I saw this video a while ago where Geaorge was explaining the use of the airport and how you should keep it uncovered and now they make one without airport?
LoL
That sound terrible to me. Good for my VAS, will not even be slightly tempted if that's the release.
 
666Honeybadger,

Squidge

Butane powered
That doesn't sound exciting...
What's the point of taking out the airport? Then there is no way to adjust te draw/airflow and more importantly no way to cool the vapor anymore... And it's not like it delivers cool vapor with an airport so now it will be straight throat-scorching vapor all the way...
I saw this video a while ago where Geaorge was explaining the use of the airport and how you should keep it uncovered and now they make one without airport?
LoL
That sound terrible to me. Good for my VAS, will not even be slightly tempted if that's the release.
It's good if you prefer mouth to lung but (if I want that) I can simply move an o-ring to close off the hole anyway. 🤷
Any guesses about this “new product” Dynavap emailed about a couple days ago?
The copper and steel cap we saw people experimenting with a month or two ago?
 

666Honeybadger

Well-Known Member
It's good if you prefer mouth to lung but (if I want that) I can simply move an o-ring to close off the hole anyway. 🤷
Or we use our finger and cover it up.:doh::clap:
Some people cover it up with tape to use it in a water piece but all that doesn't mean it's logic to make one without an airport. It only cripples the device imho.
If i had one without an airport i'd probably drill one in it...
I've got a hula-stem (glass stem with no airport) and i barely used it tbh. It's glass (and has all those dimples) but it still gets hot af and it's not versatile at all without an airport to play around with.
Then i found out it fits my Aris wolkenkraft/fenix pro. So now i use it on that as an extended airpath.

I saw a picture of the so called Dynastraw and it even looks off... The design didn't change at all, they just didn't drill the hole.. :uhh::huh:

Very strange imo, maybe their drill doesn't work or so? LoL
 
666Honeybadger,

666Honeybadger

Well-Known Member
Horses for courses @666Honeybadger
I have several stems with no airport and they work great.
Just providing a different view......
That's true!
I'm sure there will be people that are happy with it and like you say: i can imagine that they work great for those that prefer that (be it for simplicity or for taste/preference).
But if this (the Dynastraw) would be the only release it's not a very exciting or innovating one imho. (providing the M with an adjustable/closable airport would be the more versatile upgrade i think)

A cap with extended heat retaining properties would be more up my alley tbh...
But like you say: to each their own!
Let's wait and see what they throw at us...

Edit: i've also heard that they possibly would release the black M21 'obsidium'... Now that would be tempting as i am on the lookout for a really black tip to complement my black Revolve... And since i really like the SS21 tip that would be a real contender! ;)
 
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Skunkport

Well-Known Member
Actually I have a friend whose cousin's boyfriend knows a guy who works at Dynavap, the new product is called the DynaHammer. It's a collaboration between George and the makers of the now defunct Hammer Pro designed to form a balance between the convenience of an IH and the power of butane.
The DynaHammer follows the form of the original Hammer Pro, however instead of the glass aroma tube you insert your capped Dynavap, the hole has an adjustable depth which allows you to precisely control where the Ring of Fire heats.
What is the Ring of Fire? The answer to spinning! Within the DynaHammer's chamber are 8 evenly spaced mini jet torch nozzles which surround your cap to evenly heat it, shielded from wind and cold.
 
The WoodScents Log has solved my DV’s heating options. First, WS is a fantastic match for the DV line of product. Definitely puts out like a heavy desktop should. However the issue is 110v, so it be!
I was able to learn just how good the DynaVap can get while using the WS. The Apollo or flame did not cut it for me (arthritic). Not sure if I’ll ever experience fire or induction heat again. It’s a great day for 1-hit convection.
 

GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
The WoodScents Log has solved my DV’s heating options. First, WS is a fantastic match for the DV line of product. Definitely puts out like a heavy desktop should. However the issue is 110v, so it be!
I was able to learn just how good the DynaVap can get while using the WS. The Apollo or flame did not cut it for me (arthritic). Not sure if I’ll ever experience fire or induction heat again. It’s a great day for 1-hit convection.
that's 100% true by my opinion too, the WS bring new life to the Dynavap line, also the HI, they both give the same effects and clouds but the WS tastes slightly better
I have the HI with Ti tip and it's a pleasure to use, my daily driver now, it ALL depends in your budget, the HI is like 180$ if you include the Ti tip and some cool wooden stem, the WS is full kit in like 350$ or less soon 420 sales coming
 
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