notams

toke down Babylon
For fuel:

I used everclear at first. Too expensive and I'd rather drink it. Had zero smell or smoke when burning. $$$

I used denatured alcohol - about the exact same results as everclear. $$

I used 71% iso alcohol. There was a slight bit of smoke and it got my caps a little 'oily' smokey looking. $

With 91% iso alcohol I get zero smoke, zero smell, zero mess on cap - much like the other options - but, this does it cheaper.$

Now on wicks:

I used degummed hemp fiber that I fashioned into a wick. Not very difficult, but not very easy either. It burned. Like consumed. Maybe I did something wrong, but I never could get it to not just get gobbled up by flame. It may not have been soaked enough. Whatever.

Cotton balls stretched into a 'wick' worked, but it wasn't a good, solid stable flame. Same thing - probably user error and not soaked thoroughly.

Best success with the most expensive option - a few bucks on Amazon for 1/4" 100% cotton. The thickness of this wick gives a solid stable flame. Plus, the wick just does not go down. I will get the wick out just the right amount, clip it to a good round top and soak it for 24 hours. I haven't had to mess with it all (except to refill alcohol) for at least 20 hours of burning (not all in a row obviously).

Other stuff:

Another key is storage. You've got to keep it covered to avoid evaporation. Keep the wick soaked and completely submerged. I try to keep mine topped of about 1/2" from the top. Works best with a clear glass lamp so you can see the level.

Before lighting turn it upside down until alcohol drips out of the wick. This should only take a brief second if the wick is properly soaked. Not doing this will burn the dried out wick.

When burning, crack the lid open a tiny bit. I don't completely understand what's happening with wicking and airflow and such. All I know is that if you don't crack the lid just a tiny bit your flame is weak and thready and goes out.

My key for perfect flame height - no flickering. If the flame is dancing, it's too high. Also, no windows open or ceiling fans.

When extinguishing I find that covering the flame to cut off air works better than blowing out the flame.

With about a $15 investment you can have a stable, reliable heat source that is not dependent on butane, batteries or electricity. I buy 6 bottles of iso from Walmart about once a year. They cost about $1 each.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
Have a bottle of unopened “Graves” 75% grain alcohol, thought about making one of those nifty lamps.


Decided against it: —Prolly get the Fire/Police Departments pissed off, with my luck. Haha

“Honest. Didnt realize I was making a Molotov coktail, offisers.”




It would seem safer to use less volatile oil

 
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Planck

believes in Dog
For fuel:

I used everclear at first. Too expensive and I'd rather drink it. Had zero smell or smoke when burning. $$$

I used denatured alcohol - about the exact same results as everclear. $$

I used 71% iso alcohol. There was a slight bit of smoke and it got my caps a little 'oily' smokey looking. $

With 91% iso alcohol I get zero smoke, zero smell, zero mess on cap - much like the other options - but, this does it cheaper.$

Now on wicks:

I used degummed hemp fiber that I fashioned into a wick. Not very difficult, but not very easy either. It burned. Like consumed. Maybe I did something wrong, but I never could get it to not just get gobbled up by flame. It may not have been soaked enough. Whatever.

Cotton balls stretched into a 'wick' worked, but it wasn't a good, solid stable flame. Same thing - probably user error and not soaked thoroughly.

Best success with the most expensive option - a few bucks on Amazon for 1/4" 100% cotton. The thickness of this wick gives a solid stable flame. Plus, the wick just does not go down. I will get the wick out just the right amount, clip it to a good round top and soak it for 24 hours. I haven't had to mess with it all (except to refill alcohol) for at least 20 hours of burning (not all in a row obviously).

Other stuff:

Another key is storage. You've got to keep it covered to avoid evaporation. Keep the wick soaked and completely submerged. I try to keep mine topped of about 1/2" from the top. Works best with a clear glass lamp so you can see the level.

Before lighting turn it upside down until alcohol drips out of the wick. This should only take a brief second if the wick is properly soaked. Not doing this will burn the dried out wick.

When burning, crack the lid open a tiny bit. I don't completely understand what's happening with wicking and airflow and such. All I know is that if you don't crack the lid just a tiny bit your flame is weak and thready and goes out.

My key for perfect flame height - no flickering. If the flame is dancing, it's too high. Also, no windows open or ceiling fans.

When extinguishing I find that covering the flame to cut off air works better than blowing out the flame.

With about a $15 investment you can have a stable, reliable heat source that is not dependent on butane, batteries or electricity. I buy 6 bottles of iso from Walmart about once a year. They cost about $1 each.
I use methyl hydrate and I think it is the best fuel for alcohol lamps, here is why.

Burns completely clean, no soot at all in the air or on you vapcap regardless of technique. Combustion byproducts are C02 and water.
Much cheaper than alternatives. For example here I pay between 50 and 60 dollars a gallon for ISO 99% and between 8 and 10 dollars for a gallon of methyl hydrate.
It is the most widely available and unrestricted alcohol. Paint, hardware camping and automotive should all have it.

Do not drink it, bathe in it or huff it.
Fun facts about methyl alcohol. The human body produces small amounts of it as part of it's normal function. It is detectable in exhaled breath. Astronomer discovered a huge cloud of methyl alcohol 288 billion miles long.

"Cracking the lid" allows the pressure to equalize inside and outside the container. If sealed the container can become a partial vacuum as liquid is consumed. This results in what you see, a weak flame. Conversely the container can become pressurized due to thermal expansion. This pressure causes a very large flame and can even force liquid alcohol out of the unit. Obviously that could have a very bad outcome. Venting the tank prevents both of these undesirable outcomes.

I settled on lightly compressed rayon fiber wicks (What I have is sold as cellucotton). I expect many good alternative sources and products exits. I had this and it is excellent. I generally do not keep more than 1/2 inch of fuel in the vessel. The wick draws without problem and I find no need to pre prime the wick before lighting. Should the glass drop and break I'd spill a little fuel rather than although. 1/4 inch wicks produce a flame larger then I find optimal YMMV.

I'm tempted by this alcohol lamp. I would modify it to use a smaller wick. /nods
93K3401-alcohol-torch-f-56.jpg

Here is my precious
Untitled.jpg
As seen in the image the wick does not protrude, it's a couple mm below the end of the bolt and is not consumed. It takes a couple of minutes to heat up and function as seen above. I light the lamp load the stem and I'm good to go.

This all works well for me as alway ymmv.

P.S. Brett if you're reading this don't boff it either.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I prefer using my Alcohol lamp with the Vaponic, i saw it in a promotional video back in 2016 and instantly became my favorite method. I think that with the Dynavap it is easier to transfer too much heat to the o-ring area ,especially if you are not extra careful,i think i prefer single flame torch at the lowest setting for more localized heat delivery :).
Anyway recently i moved to wickless alcohol burner :)) Pretty easy to DIY ;) ..

1614236594758.png1614236646081.png
Woah there is a double burner.. :D :D :D amazon link
1614236830007.png
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
🤔While its all so novel, and ritualistic, I think I am going to stick with my flameless 21st Century
Mag heater.

It too is a ritual, albeit a modern one.

Accident prone, I will never hear the end of it if the property burns down. You all who want to do so,
Have a fun time with your alcoholic toys.

The myth of rituals. :cheers:

BTW, if y’all havent heard, the master of induction heaters @Pipes is strongly hinting that there may well
be a new product in the near future. Time to chase the IHAS.
 
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GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
🤔While its all so novel, and ritualistic, I think I am going to stick with my flameless 21st Century
Mag heater.

It too is a ritual, albeit a modern one.

Accident prone, I will never hear the end of it if the property burns down. You all who want to do so,
Have a fun time with your alcoholic toys.

The myth of rituals. :cheers:
how you recommend vapin after the 2nd injection of covid19? full small nug inside the vapcap aha?
 
GoldenBud,
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natural farmer

Well-Known Member
I prefer using my Alcohol lamp with the Vaponic, i saw it in a promotional video back in 2016 and instantly became my favorite method. I think that with the Dynavap it is easier to transfer too much heat to the o-ring area ,especially if you are not extra careful,i think i prefer single flame torch at the lowest setting for more localized heat delivery :).
Anyway recently i moved to wickless alcohol burner :)) Pretty easy to DIY ;) ..

View attachment 6130View attachment 6131
Woah there is a double burner.. :D :D :D amazon link
View attachment 6132
What is this blackmagicfuckery??? I need one!!!
 
natural farmer,

JJ785

Well-Known Member
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