It doesn’t matter how much you pack, even if the chamber is only a third full, when you inhale the material gets sucked against the screen, directly touching it.the material hardens when vaped and sticks to the screen. Definitely true yet I try not to overpack the chamber
Bingo. Perfect. Better stated than I did. I always clear the the chamber of vapor: turn off the unit and keep inhaling a few secs. I’ve always done this for years. As for emptying chamber when warm, that could vary depending on the situation and likely the issue. I’ll try to do this more when warm rather than cold.So, extra drawing after shut-off is valuable for clearing the chamber of said vapor. Emptying the chamber while still warm helps prevent said sticking, or re-warming if it's been allowed to cool may help loosen said adhesion and prevent the screen from loosening.
Thanks! I’ve been more diligent since that post and try not to over pack the chamber and tamp down any minor flower above the rim. The issue still occurs as you state. Not a big deal but at least I know the likely cause - and use the fine point tweezers to screw the screen back in place. I’m hesitant to remove the screen altogether (I have in the past but seldom) and don’t want to mess it up. The edges are starting to buckle and fray a bit likely from attempting to unscrew it. Again, not a big deal and more frequent ISO baths should help. The main thing is the Hopper still works and works well! And my PFE is waiting for me when I get back from vacationI was merely pointing out that it doesn’t matter how much you load, you can still experience this issue with a small amount of material.
So, my GH front end screen recently started sticking and backing out when I unscrew the front end.
I put it some ISO for a bit which fixed it for a short time.
So, I put in it ISO in my ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes and all is good. No more sticking...for now.
It seems to take a good bit of ISO soak to get all of the reclaim and gunk out.
Cheers
The ticking sound is completely normal, no need to worry.One of my hoppers makes a very light ticking sound when it’s switched on. I’m not sure if it’s always done it or not but I’m currently using it in combination with a Sneaky Pete Watering Can. This brings the hopper very close to my ear, which is why it’s come to my attention.
Any thoughts anyone?
The ticking sound is completely normal, no need to worry.
Last time that happened with mine it was corrected by a new battery. Several other batteries I had could power a different Grasshopper I have, while none but a newer one could power this particular hopper, except briefly at low temp.At the moment both of my hoppers don't really work. My TI shows red/blue cop lights after some seconds and doesn't heat at all, I think the sensor or heater is damaged. The SS unit is not performing good since several month. Sometimes it was OK but since yesterday it only heats up and switches to blue if i put it on temp 1-2. If the temp is set higher the light stays red for 20-30 seconds and then switches off. Tried 4 different batteries, 3 backends and cleaned all I could with Blu Tack but didn't help.
Is there any known fix I could try?
Maybe I should have characterized it differently than, "the material hardens when vaped." More accurate would be, "unspent vapor in the chamber condenses and becomes sticky then solidifies, effectively adhering the mouthpiece screens' flange to the top rim (the end) of the body's chamber." I think this is the most likely cause of the 'loose screen syndrome'. (When you try to unscrew the mp, the screen stays put and becomes un-threaded from mp).
So, extra drawing after shut-off is valuable for clearing the chamber of said vapor. Emptying the chamber while still warm helps prevent said sticking, or re-warming if it's been allowed to cool may help loosen said adhesion and prevent the screen from loosening.
I had become re-aquainted with standard mouthpiece for the past couple of months, native use. But recently I removed screen and internals from one AFTER 24 hr iso soak, rinse was still dirty, another 24 hrs then rinse, then inspect and that little plastic thingy attached to the screen was still dirty, as were parts of the metal inner funnel. It's too many pieces for my liking, so I'm back to PFE -- this time with a SS 510 drip tip that does an amazing job at cooling both vapor and the surface touched by the lips.
1. No. Or, technically, you can get in line, by initiating a request at the warranty portal at the new website.Does anyone know, when Hopperlabs will open their RMA again? And I think I'll have to pay the shipping costs?
As expected, my second hand Hopper stopped working properly. If it ever has...
Lights seem to indicate an sensor error, sometimes lights get and stay blue, but no vape is produced. Have 3 cells to switch and gone through the troubleshooting guides, but with no effort.
Does anyone know, when Hopperlabs will open their RMA again? And I think I'll have to pay the shipping costs?
You've got the correct address.@Hopper Labs
I had forgotten to send my grey Ti back end back to you after I received the one you sent me. Which is working wonderfully, thank you. What is the proper address to send it to? I wasn’t sure if I have the right one(4571 Broadway) after the fire. I was going to ask in the portal but my warranty was closed.
I apologize for the delay!!
Nice.I used my new Ti PFE last night and just a few minutes ago mated to my glass rig. WOW! Simply amazing and something I should do more often. I’ve seldom used any filtration with my Hopper. I had it on 4.2, finished off a lightly used load in 3 medium draws, loaded another chamber with the same Cherry Cookies, and did another couple of draws. And just finished off the chamber while typing this out having breakfast. Simply amazing. Smoother and cooler hits with deeper effect. I couldn’t do this before my RMA. I’m ecstatic I have a Hopper that works so damn well now!
Most ironically perhaps, I’ll have my new Tinymight in hand for the the first time. Going to be a fun weekend