• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

Crafty/Crafty+ by Storz & Bickel

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hey mate my crafty was red/yellow dead according to S&B only a new one was the solution .... i replaced the thermal fuse and it came back to life, how i miss this guy... i wanted to replace the battery and by the way @rebis describes a sony VTC6 (i have 2 for the IQ) are a good option, can you please send some photo info on how to do it, replacing the fuse was easy but soldering is a different game...
Cheers
thx
I sell the batteries pre-made (check link in my signature), as well as I have links to the instructions in there (and there is a pretty good instruction on reddit too). Price is $40 USD + shipping for the packs pre-made (wire harness installed, shrink-wrapped etc.) I use the VTC6 cell as it was the best one I found when trying different options. If you want to make your own, by all means, you can either remove the wire harness from the existing battery pack and solder it to a new one, or I could send you the specs on the wire and connectors (I use a silver plated wire to conduct sufficient current at the size they require to fit ... you can't just use any wire as your typical wire rated for the current it is pulling is too thick to work with the connectors). For the batteries, you either need to buy them with u-tabs pre-welded on, or you can purchase or build your own spot welder and install your own tabs. You can't solder directly to the batteries ... even soldering to the tabs it's important you use heat sink clamps to ensure the heat doesn't make it to the battery terminals.
 

julien31

New Member
Hello
Just for inforamtion I received my new crafty with the firmware 2.60 I saw it recently.
JCat thanks for the help given. I had a question concerning "heat sink clamps to ensure the heat doesn't make it to the battery terminals." Do you say that the furnace heat goes to electronic and to the battery ?
Do you think that the mods seen in old posts with battery changeable need heat sink clamps too ?
Thanks
Have a good day
 

karec

Well-Known Member
I sell the batteries pre-made (check link in my signature), as well as I have links to the instructions in there (and there is a pretty good instruction on reddit too). Price is $40 USD + shipping for the packs pre-made (wire harness installed, shrink-wrapped etc.) I use the VTC6 cell as it was the best one I found when trying different options. If you want to make your own, by all means, you can either remove the wire harness from the existing battery pack and solder it to a new one, or I could send you the specs on the wire and connectors (I use a silver plated wire to conduct sufficient current at the size they require to fit ... you can't just use any wire as your typical wire rated for the current it is pulling is too thick to work with the connectors). For the batteries, you either need to buy them with u-tabs pre-welded on, or you can purchase or build your own spot welder and install your own tabs. You can't solder directly to the batteries ... even soldering to the tabs it's important you use heat sink clamps to ensure the heat doesn't make it to the battery terminals.

Mate im sorry, i didnt know you make business out of this, so i think is unfair for me to ask you help due to conflict of interest i guess...or at least in an open thread, i could use your service but being in Portugal would be rather expensive to order 1 + postage, and i already have 2 VTC6 out of 4 x 18650 batteries so if you want to send some specs or instructions i will send you my email i would appreciate it very much... but i will check reddit 1st before i dont have any other option
Thx mate...
 

rebis

Active Member
Glad you got it fixed! That's the way!

I'm currently arguing w/ Firefly to send me the glass "bowl" that broke in mine ... they want me to send the whole device in (so I'll be without it for a month), to do a 5 min. repair. It will take me longer to figure out how to package it safely without the glass bowl then it would to re-assemble if I had the part!!! Sheesh! I'm not even asking for warranty on the repair or part or anything ... I just want them to sell it to me for the cost of the repair! That way they make the money without even having to do the work!


Ahh mate, nightmare. I suppose when a company is trying to maintain a consistent service to people who aren't as technically gifted it must be frustrating! Especially as it is for profit. I hope they agree to send one off for you dude.
 
rebis,
  • Like
Reactions: vapen00b

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Mate im sorry, i didnt know you make business out of this, so i think is unfair for me to ask you help due to conflict of interest i guess...or at least in an open thread, i could use your service but being in Portugal would be rather expensive to order 1 + postage, and i already have 2 VTC6 out of 4 x 18650 batteries so if you want to send some specs or instructions i will send you my email i would appreciate it very much... but i will check reddit 1st before i dont have any other option
Thx mate...
It's really not a big deal ... I'm totally ok with people making their own (it wouldn't be cool of course if someone started making and selling them, but apart from that, I have no issues with it) I do it mainly as a service to the community, not a lot of money in it (I probably make more at my regular job as far as hourly wage by the time you account for communication, building them, and shipping them :) ). You can't use your existing VTC6 batteries unless you have a spot welder to weld the metal tabs on though. There is a supplier for the batteries out of the Netherlands, otherwise you need to get them from China (if you want them with tabs on already). Alternately, if there is a "battery shop" somewhere close to you, if you are in a major centre, then they might be able to spot weld the tabs on for you. You can buy a spot welder for about $150 as well, they aren't overly expensive (but if you are just doing a handful of batteries I can't see it being worth it)

First part of the battle for you will be getting the batteries with u-tabs, once you get that far, the rest will be a piece of cake :) (or if you're getting someone to weld on the tabs, they might be able to de-solder and re-solder the wiring harness from the exiting battery onto the new one for you as well)

Hello
Just for inforamtion I received my new crafty with the firmware 2.60 I saw it recently.
JCat thanks for the help given. I had a question concerning "heat sink clamps to ensure the heat doesn't make it to the battery terminals." Do you say that the furnace heat goes to electronic and to the battery ?
Do you think that the mods seen in old posts with battery changeable need heat sink clamps too ?
Thanks
Have a good day
I'm talking about when you are doing the soldering. You use the heat sink between the soldering iron and the battery (clamped onto the tabs) so that they pull the heat away from the battery terminal as they absorb it before it moves on. It's not a permanent thing ... just something you should do when soldering onto battery tabs to be prudent and to ensure you don't damage your battery. If you're good with an iron and have at least a 40W one, it's not necessary, as if you're fast you'll prevent the heat from traveling, but it's nonetheless a good precaution :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:

elmomuzz

That just happened...
My 2.04 crafty with 55 hours has been pretty tired so I finally decided to replace the battery. I saw JCat recommended the VTC6 so I got two of them from amazon.

While I had it apart I cleaned the heater core in alcohol. It's a pretty cool design. This is the first time I have actually seen it.

And now it's back together and charging. I'm excited to use it. :)


*edit* Wow it heats up fast!!

crafty1.jpg


crafty2.jpg
 
Last edited:

danimw

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

so I basically did the same as elmomuzz a few months ago, also VTC6. At this point my Crafty had around 200 hours, now its at 280 but I am having the issue that its turning off while heating, it does happen more when the battery is full (higher currents), once battery is below half charge it does no longet happen. Any idea?

FW 2.1
 

Haunts

Well-Known Member
I have my first Crafty inbound, I have a couple of questions for when it arrives.
1. Do I need to do a burn off?
2. Do I need to clean the CU and oven with iso?
3. Do I need to fully charge the battery first or should I drain it, then do a full charge?
 

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
My 2.04 crafty with 55 hours has been pretty tired so I finally decided to replace the battery. I saw JCat recommended the VTC6 so I got two of them from amazon.

While I had it apart I cleaned the heater core in alcohol. It's a pretty cool design. This is the first time I have actually seen it.

And now it's back together and charging. I'm excited to use it. :)


*edit* Wow it heats up fast!!

crafty1.jpg


crafty2.jpg
Awesome job :)

Just want to mention that you REALLY should not be soldering directly onto these batteries though ... super dangerous (I wouldn't do it). You really do need a spot welder for this to be safe while doing it, and to be sure that the end product is safe (and that you haven't compromised some of the plastic under that cap).

If you don't have access to a spot welder, there is a supplier out of the Netherlands (NKON) that produces the batteries w/ the u-tabs for a small fee. Shipping is pretty steep if you only want 1 or 2 batteries, but better than having a vaporizer blow up in your face :o
 

karec

Well-Known Member
I have my first Crafty inbound, I have a couple of questions for when it arrives.
1. Do I need to do a burn off?
2. Do I need to clean the CU and oven with iso?
3. Do I need to fully charge the battery first or should I drain it, then do a full charge?

u dont need but its advised to do it with every unit including the crafty
 

elmomuzz

That just happened...
Awesome job :)

Just want to mention that you REALLY should not be soldering directly onto these batteries though ... super dangerous (I wouldn't do it). You really do need a spot welder for this to be safe while doing it, and to be sure that the end product is safe (and that you haven't compromised some of the plastic under that cap).

If you don't have access to a spot welder, there is a supplier out of the Netherlands (NKON) that produces the batteries w/ the u-tabs for a small fee. Shipping is pretty steep if you only want 1 or 2 batteries, but better than having a vaporizer blow up in your face :o


I’ve been soldering directly to batteries like this for a long time with zero issues. It just requires the proper technique. It actually provides a better connection then welding.
 
elmomuzz,
  • Like
Reactions: JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I’ve been soldering directly to batteries like this for a long time with zero issues. It just requires the proper technique. It actually provides a better connection then welding.
I know it’s possible ... and if done properly will generally be successful, but that doesn’t make it safe (and definitely not safe to recommend others do?)

Anyways ... like I said in the original response ... awesome job ... but personally, I wouldn’t solder to batteries for both the small personal risk and the risk of damaging the cell.

I’ve been using my mitre saw without a real dangerous situation occurring for 20 years ... the other day a small piece grabbed funny and sucked up into the blade and guard and snapped some pieces on the saw and the blade lost a bunch of carbide teeth ... good thing I was using hold downs to keep my hands out of the way, and wearing safety goggles, and didn’t just do it quickly with small risk , as this time unlike the thousand of other times, I would have lost fingers.
 

elmomuzz

That just happened...
I never recommended anyone else do it. I developed my technique over time with a lot of experience. Lithium batteries can be very dangerous.

But I can do it and my finished cell is no more dangerous to charge and discharge then a new cell. To suggest otherwise without examining and testing it would be an unfair evaluation.
 
elmomuzz,

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I never recommended anyone else do it. I developed my technique over time with a lot of experience. Lithium batteries can be very dangerous.

But I can do it and my finished cell is no more dangerous to charge and discharge then a new cell. To suggest otherwise without examining and testing it would be an unfair evaluation.
Didn't mean to suggest anything ... just rambling out loud and by no means do I mean to offend (I also didn't want to be misunderstood as trying to discourage people from doing their own because I sell them ... all the more power to you if you can do it yourself which is why I provided the vendor to purchase the batteries w/ tabs already on ... also why I've provided the instructions and help when asked and sometimes when not asked ... :lol: )

Just when I saw that your batteries were soldered directly I voiced aloud (both to you and to others reading these forums) my concerns over that in regards to safety; ultimately everyone makes there own choices and I would never presume to tell anyone what to do :) ... again ... sorry if I offended in any way ... just healthy discussion and observations :)

Edit: and I didn't mean to suggest that you recommended others do it ... but you know the Internet ... as soon as someone reads about something they go ahead and do it ... someone reading this thread may not be very good with a soldering iron, may not do additional research in regards to safety, and might just go ahead and do it; this is all I am trying to prevent by throwing in my 2 cents :)
 

elmomuzz

That just happened...
Hey that’s cool.

I guess I should throw in my .02 as well. The spot welders you mention a few posts up are a poor choice for these connections. Like their name implies they welds tiny spots with very little surface area for the current to flow. It is a point of resistance and will heat up during hard discharge. Not optimal. I would hate to see someone waste their money on one for this purpose.
 
elmomuzz,

jdent3

Well-Known Member
Is there a general consensus on whether the reliability of the Crafty has improved with the new 20% battery life units? Thinking of picking one up but I already have a Mighty so not sure if it worth it. Has anyone with a new unit had theirs fail?
 
jdent3,

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
10 hrs in, no problems yet - I expect it to last quite a while... Let's see :)
 
vapen00b,
  • Like
Reactions: jdent3

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
How many sessions with a full battery?

Wew, that's really depending on usage style.. 3-4 or 3-5 or even 3.5.
Being mostly on 180 and 200 boost. Sometimes 190 boost, sometimes max temp boost.
Not too precise but hope this helps though ;) :)
 
vapen00b,
  • Like
Reactions: dzoinp

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Crafty or Mighty?
Crafty is better solo or lighter use. And it stands on its own. Mighty has better battery life so is better for a heavier user. But it needs a stand. Not a big deal, but you should know.

Happy shopping!!
 
Mr. Me2,
  • Like
Reactions: dave123

dave123

Well-Known Member
IS there any difference in bowl size or vapour production?

Can the Mighty use the phone app?
 
dave123,
Top Bottom