Discontinued The Hammer Vaporizer

Egzoset

Banned
Salutations OO,

...would love to see a pre-element humidifing system.

If the idea is viable and it can be implemented by the manufacturer then you can safely bet i won't be alone to want to jump in the band-wagon: who can resist a burst of portable & affordable aroma/taste?!!

Chances are i'll be sticking around for a little while, just in case.

:nod:
 
Egzoset,

nopartofme

Over the falls, in a barrel
Sorry, i'm afraid i've lost track of many similar threads as that particular one. Perhaps others may wish to complement hopefully.

:peace:

TET's Smooth Flow is a moisture conditioning mouthpiece. It contains porous ceramic to which you add drops of water.

It's no longer in production due to the Cera transition, but a cursory google search shows it still for sale here.


Edit: Ah, TET still has them in stock as well.
 
nopartofme,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Interesting idea.

How about the Oakie version, an inch or two of soggy cotton string stuffed in the back end of the stem? Easy to add a drop or two to or pull out with a bent paperclip......

OF
 
OF,

OO

Technical Skeptical
I was able to attach mine to the Hammer stem with a short piece of silicon tubing. Not the most stable contraption, but it does add a bit of moisture. Will let you guys know once I play a bit more.
Which side of the hammer did you connect it to?
 
OO,

OO

Technical Skeptical
Just at the end of my glass stem, the side I draw from. Basically it acts like an extended mouth piece with cooling capabilities. I will try and get a photo up.
If it isn't too much to ask, could you try using it on the intake (opposite) side?

I'm interested in whether or not it is possible to sufficiently humidify without reducing post vaporization temps.
 
OO,

Tweek

Well-Known Member
If it isn't too much to ask, could you try using it on the intake (opposite) side?

I'm interested in whether or not it is possible to sufficiently humidify without reducing post vaporization temps.

Sure, no prob. Might take me a little bit to rig up, but I will see what I can do.
 

vaporonly

living in a van down by the river
could someone take some more pics of those custom wood stems and maybe even a how-to on how they are made?

thanks
 
vaporonly,

hoyo77

Well-Known Member
Greetings fellow hammer users. I have been reading your posts and have pulled the trigger and ordered one. This seems like the perfect solution for what i want. I have been vaping for a long time now and i own several. looking forward to getting mine this week. If any of the Hammer company personal see this post. My order number is

Your Order ID is: #1062
An email receipt containing information about your order will soon follow. Please keep it for your records.
 

satyrday

Well-Known Member
I decided to push the limits yesterday and fired the Hammer for an inordinate amount of time, and then inhaled deeeeply. Just about coughed a lung out but did not combust. I still felt that one hit 5 hours later (good shit).
 

OO

Technical Skeptical
could someone take some more pics of those custom wood stems and maybe even a how-to on how they are made?

thanks
They aren't too complicated, the metal was some form of plumbing fitting, but a 40 caliber brass casing would work as well (you could pick these up at a local shooting range)

The wood was just a tube you could make with a vice and a drill, but a drill press would be better.

Drill the wooden tube, cut the bottom off the shell, soak the shell in Vinegar or stronger acids like cola, insert wooden tube into the shell, and use a center punch to bend the brass to grip the wood.

They were made with oak, which is good in my mind, because we have lots of it, and it won't damage the rainforest.

I decided to push the limits yesterday and fired the Hammer for an inordinate amount of time, and then inhaled deeeeply. Just about coughed a lung out but did not combust. I still felt that one hit 5 hours later (good shit).

X-Factor FTW.
 

vaporonly

living in a van down by the river
They aren't too complicated, the metal was some form of plumbing fitting, but a 40 caliber brass casing would work as well (you could pick these up at a local shooting range)

The wood was just a tube you could make with a vice and a drill, but a drill press would be better.

Drill the wooden tube, cut the bottom off the shell, soak the shell in Vinegar or stronger acids like cola, insert wooden tube into the shell, and use a center punch to bend the brass to grip the wood.

They were made with oak, which is good in my mind, because we have lots of it, and it won't damage the rainforest.

X-Factor FTW.

thank you for taking the time to write this out. I think I might try with stainless steel, although the bullet casing would be pretty macho lol
 
vaporonly,
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Head Tools

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer


I have never used one of these filters. I'm sure it does a good job of adding moisture, but it seems like it would clog very easily. Do you have to soak it in ISO?

I like the idea of adding moisture at the intake (solves the clogging problem). I'm curious to know if it will be effective.
 
Head Tools,
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OF

Well-Known Member
I have never used one of these filters. I'm sure it does a good job of adding moisture, but it seems like it would clog very easily. Do you have to soak it in ISO?

I like the idea of adding moisture at the intake (solves the clogging problem). I'm curious to know if it will be effective.

Actually it doesn't clog up very much since the vapor doesn't go through it but past it. The ceramic reservoir is a ring maybe 1/4 inch long with a 1/8 bore (give or take).

This is the Pure Flow, not the True Flow recommended. TF doesn't absorb water, it's a micro pore ceramic filter, not a reservoir. You need the PF, not TF for moisture. You want the one you can see through, not the one that's blocked by ceramic.

I run mine under the faucet and shake out what will come out. It does very well for several hits typically before needing more. The companion "True Flow" is a true filter, but it doesn't clog up all that fast either. Fun little products.

Trying to hydrate the input won't work guys, the relative humidity drops like a proverbial rock when the air gets heated. If you start out in heavy fog (100% RH, 15mg/kilo) at 20C, by the time you get to 50C (17% of the way to vaping temperature, long way to go) you'll be at 16% RH (15 of the 95mg per Kg possible at that temperature). By the time you get to the magic temperature you'll be 'far to dry to spit' for sure. Back of this envelope says so anyway.

This is why the coast is damp and the desert dry. Temperature and ability to hold water are linked closely.

You have to heat it first to add the water....cold water doesn't evaporate well.

FWIW I'm still thinking a piece of soggy cotton string poked into the stem......

OF
 
OF,
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satyrday

Well-Known Member
Trying to hydrate the input won't work guys, the relative humidity drops like a proverbial rock when the air gets heated. If you start out in heavy fog (100% RH, 15mg/kilo) at 20C, by the time you get to 50C (17% of the way to vaping temperature, long way to go) you'll be at 16% RH (15 of the 95mg per Kg possible at that temperature). By the time you get to the magic temperature you'll be 'far to dry to spit' for sure. Back of this envelope says so anyway.

This is why the coast is damp and the desert dry. Temperature and ability to hold water are linked closely.

Interesting food for thought OF. The water would certainly boil, but even steam has to go somewhere. Wouldn't it be going into your lungs?

I do wonder whether significant humidity would be drawn from the inlet water container at room temperature in the first place.
 
satyrday,

Egzoset

Banned
Salutations Head Tools,

Do you have to soak it in ISO?

I use 94 % concentrated alcohol for reclaims and often even clean-ups. I can state that i've used this solvant sucessfully, provided that i perform a rince fast... Yet i'd still avoid doing this with stuff i never tested... If the humidifier cartridge were only made of metal and sintered-ceramic that wouldn't even be a problem, if it's got delicate plastic because it's from a mouthpiece accessory then maybe i'd try to remove that material before i connect it on The Hammer's inlet side!

:nod:

I like the idea of adding moisture at the intake...

That's good news to hear as seen from my perspective! Lets just mention that moisture does condensate it seems, as i see a lot of it covering the inside wall of my PVC extension tubing (for the VG) - plenty of it i'd say...

So, it's effectively very interesting being able to have moisture as an optional module since when using a water tool one would want to remove it anyway. A metallic cylinder holding a thin (hollow, donut-type) absorbant layer capable of evaporating a few drops of water is all i may need but someone will have to tailor its geometry 1st i'm afraid, meaning this feature is probably going to require patience - which i have.

So, if it's possible at all does anyone have an idea how long this could take?

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

OF

Well-Known Member
Interesting food for thought OF. The water would certainly boil, but even steam has to go somewhere. Wouldn't it be going into your lungs?

I do wonder whether significant humidity would be drawn from the inlet water container at room temperature in the first place.

Your second statement is, I think, a restatement of my point? At low temperatures the air can hold at most an insignificant amount of moisture (in pounds) by the time you get to vaping temperatures. "Hot air holds lots of water". This is why we get fog when the air cools. What was less than 100%RH is now more than 100% so we get fog....or clouds.....or rain. Or just confused.

The first confuses me a bit. Yes, there is no liquid water at 400F. Or 300 for that matter, unless we raise the pressure a lot (as in a live steam system). But we don't necessarily heat all the water in the reservoir up to the same temperature nor is that as hot as the air (obviously). Much as you can play your torch on the water and not have it flash over. It takes a lot of heat to convert to vapor from liquid, it only happens as fast as energy is available to do it. In practice the 'phase change' takes so much energy that as soon as it's a vapor molecule the water vapor is 'the hottest thing in town' and moves off. Thinking of it as steam will take you to the wrong place here I think? Yes, that water vapor, no different than any other water vapor at that temperature will hopefully end up in you.....that was the idea to start I thought?

OF
 
OF,

Egzoset

Banned
Salutations OF,

Trying to hydrate the input won't work...

Alright, it won't work. But it does quite well in my VG...
106.gif


Isn't there room for hope or do i need to look elsewhere??

...or even, what if we start from this instead:

7.gif


If 1 wick doesn't supply water fast enough then maybe 2, or 3... Or whatever it takes, no?

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

satyrday

Well-Known Member
I think we agree on the second point, OF.

I made the first point because if you were able to draw humidity through the inlet by utilizing an atomizer or whatever, just because the water is highly heated by the vaporizer doesn't mean it's simply gone and not available to your lungs. I may have misunderstood your thoughts on this, however.
 
satyrday,
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