Discontinued Supreme Vaporizer

[ilovebOObs]

wait the supreme is only

For the people who have bought the $80 supreme from Ed,

Did he tell you when the closeout special is ending?
Or is it just until they're all gone?

Got some friends interested

$80 bucks only. nice who is this Ed and how do i make him take my money.

 

[Stu]

Boobs, shoot him an email at purevapor (at) yahoo.com. Just ask if he is still offering the $80 clearance sale for FC members.

 

[ilovebOObs]

Boobs, shoot him an email at purevapor (at) yahoo.com. Just ask if he is still offering the $80 clearance sale for FC members.

thanks you good sir. email sent. at $80 who can say no well maybe my credit card company. heheh

 

[Vitolo]

No... not even a trial vape with one!
There are very few vapes I have not tried... and this is one~

 

[sessnet]

No... not even a trial vape with one!
There are very few vapes I have not tried... and this is one~

That is good for you! One down...not many to go

I got my Supreme almost week ago (thanks to you), but waiting for the right time (and knowledge) to use it.

 

[psyshaman]

When I saw this sale I had to purchase a second supreme for myself and two of my friends jumped straight on the wagon. This wonderful vape goes with me everytime I head to festivals and friends houses, mated to headford disk diffused bubbler this is the ultimate portable BIG hitter (IMO).....

.... If I could have only one vape out of my entire collection the supreme would be it

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well Just got my SV and i got vaked as hell till i figure out how to use it without reading the thread..
I am not very happy with the loading system of the SV.. or i might not got it yet.. Now i did a quick read of the thread basicly scrolling and skipping post and pages.. }
First of all when i got it i though that you load you herbs in the mouthpiece tube.. It got two screens so it seemed logic.. I thought to myself.. What a huge bowl.. there must be a way to adjust it with screen levels .. The silicon ring seemed logic so you don't have to tuck it in.. I never tried loading it into the mouthpiece anyway.. Then i saw a drawn diagram.. which got me to the classic method.. which if i understood right was loading it in the tube inside the wooden body connected to the heating element.. (Btw is that pin inside the tube the Termometer ?) .
I was horrified of the idea in that herb will fall into the aluminium maze.. and i will never be able to clean it ..
Well if a screen is inserted it would probably be ok.. but my guts didn't let me to push it inside after the pin.. in fear of damaging it (if not this time .. next time i take out for cleaning.. LOL.. ) With the screen before the pin the bowl was too small for my likings... + some fine particles will pass the screen anyway.. So i gave up that method too.. And started digging about the Famous Convection method.. I think i didn't quite dig it.. Do you actually put the herb between two screens inside the wooden body ? Doesn't the herb come in contact with the wood that way ?
Also why heating over 330 is unsafe ? Is it bad for the unit or the alu will release smth (i doubt the second) .
Is that the temps in which combustion occurs with the classic method..
Will heating the vape to 350 for example void my warranty ..
I havent done that yet cuz i got at 320 all that i wanted.. via my method which i will describe next..
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am in basic using the bowl only replacing the heat exchanger (top part) of my Gong gnome with the Supreme.
My adapter with 18 to 14 with pinched bowl on the 14" side. I put the silicone o-ring on the 14" joint and pushed in till it touched the hole of the aluminium tube . I got golden evenly extracted ABV same as i got with my UD. I must try the abv in the UD/gnome to see if there is anything left.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I will include pics later.. Overall i expected a bit more of that vape.. loading wise.. I am very interested in trying higher temps ,cuz i can see benefit when used with concentrates the way i plan to use them.
On the other side.. It reaches needed temps in less than a minute + gives nice clouds even with untraditional use leaving the abv golden..
I might post a video and write a comparative review to the gnome.. if i ever got sober.. again.

 

[SD_haze]

Heating it over 330 is bad for the unit, Ed said routinely doing that causes too much wood expansion and overtime, can break it.

You definitely are supposed to fill up the metal tube inside the wooden body. as long as you dont blow INTO it, there isn't too big of an issue with particles getting lost in the "aluminum maze". To extra-help prevent that, I usually put a couple bigger pea-sized chunks in the bottom and then fill the rest up with grinded herb.

Used traditionally you don't use two screens and definitely never fill the mouthpiece tube

The convection method without the special screen from the first supreme model is pretty annoying, dealing with the two screens that are always hard to take out and clean and whatnot.

 

[sessnet]

Sorry, had a dumb question nvm - delete please

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well I tried all methods possible.. i think .. and i am still stickin to loading the gnome bowl .. I moded an old 18"mm bowl to increase the load..(kinda looked like dbv wand but male to male I got awesome results fillin almost 1 g . I got all light brown vaporizer at 320 . I am able to push both sized bowl next to the alu tube and make nice seal..
I use an ud stem o-ring on the 18 mm to mode into SV body. I might post pics soon.. if i get sober enough..

 

[VaporBoxed]

Also why heating over 330 is unsafe ? Is it bad for the unit or the alu will release smth (i doubt the second) .

I used to use my supreme to get every last bit of goodness out of my abv and that sometimes meant overheating up to 380 or when it would say "hi". After about two months of this usage i noticed a hard black residue that chipped off from inside the bowl. I never put anything except clean herbs inside my supreme so my only thought is that the black residue came from overheating aluminum. After i saw that residue i packed up my supreme and havent touched it since. DO NOT overheat your supreme.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well . The black residue might be because of the partial combustion of the herb or herb dust combusted in the heat chamber... or what you say.. Anyway i don't plan on overheating the supreme. I got all need at 320 .. so i see no point in going higher.
Does anyone else got same problems with residue from overheating..
I would like to hear CDS cuz he got a heavy used old supreme .

 

[notmyrealUSERname]

I used to use my supreme to get every last bit of goodness out of my abv and that sometimes meant overheating up to 380 or when it would say "hi". After about two months of this usage i noticed a hard black residue that chipped off from inside the bowl. I never put anything except clean herbs inside my supreme so my only thought is that the black residue came from overheating aluminum. After i saw that residue i packed up my supreme and havent touched it since. DO NOT overheat your supreme.

I am going to suggest that you simply clean your sv to get rid of that "harmful" black residue. Use a makeup brush dipped in iso to wipe the inside of the tube, sometimes u can get better results if it's already heated up.

I don't understand how a direct torch flame applied multiple times to the heating block can show no signs of deterioration (black residue) but the inside of the loading chamber which is only exposed to hot air and clean herb does. Your logic is flawed. The black residue is "burnt" herb that has stuck to the loading chambers tube and has been reheated multiple times. I have noticed the same thing happens in the herbalaire's crucible which is also made of aluminum.


post added;

abysmal vapor: ill see if i can help you out...

the pin inside the loading chamber is the thermometer! that is where your vaporizables should go. your first instinct was right! i have never had my sv1 get plugged up from stuff getting stuck in the heating element. blowing through the heating element can help keep it clear, you don't need to put a screen inside the tube at all.

as far as i can tell its not possible to use the convenction method with the sv2. cds has the sv1 which has a different screen setup than the sv2. you are correct in your assumption that the vaporizables sit in between two screens inside the wooden body which means a small amount of vaporizables will touch the wood, when using the convection method.

i am assuming your discounted sv2 comes with a warranty, if so your warranty is only 30 days, so if your worried about going over 350, wait till then. if your worried about long term damage then i guess that depends on what you consider long term. if you expect the sv2 to last you until you die, then you might want to stay under 330F, if you only want say 2 - 6 years then i can't see the harm in going over 350F.

i am very interested to see your pics of your gong gnome mod! it sounds very interesting. do you Need to load 1g to get good results? or has just become your new party vape?

 

[VaporBoxed]

Ive been smoking/vaping for over 8 years of my life. Take my word when i tell you it is not resin. I know resin from combustion, its sticky or gooey. This is hard, chips off and is inside of the bowl and the heating block from as far as i can see with a flashlight. I took a needle and chipped off a good sized chunk and it took alot of effort to make it crumble. This looked nothing like any resin i've ever seen. The next thing i tried was a qtip dipped in iso and it did nothing, no residue was on the qtip. So i took apart my supreme (pulled the heating block off of the unit) and soaked the block in iso and rinsed with hot water and it just wouldnt come off. All that works is taking a long needle and chipping off pieces.

I misused the product and something undesirable happened.
Edit: forgot to add

I would like to hear CDS cuz he got a heavy used old supreme .

The issue has been addressed with the Supreme and the Volcano. The story is that the temperatures we are using are too low to be hazardous.

Also: i dont mean to sound brash but when i first read your post i felt offense to "flawed logic." Now that i've re-read it i see where your coming from. Im not sure why the black stuff is not on the outside. Maybe because i torch it off? who knows?

 

[Dogman]

I used to use my supreme to get every last bit of goodness out of my abv and that sometimes meant overheating up to 380 or when it would say "hi". DO NOT overheat your supreme.

Why would you ever take your SV2 that high? The design is made to beat the air down to make it hold more heat. At 340 degrees, both of mine taste as though they are ready to combust.

I am a master automotive tech and am very familiar with overheating aluminum, it ill cause it to melt and off gas, but it will not turn it black. If the heating block is not melted, there is no way to damage the bowl.

From previous discussions with Ed, the worst thing that will happen is the block will come loose and the plates inside the heating element will rattle, and that will happen above the recommended 330 degree max limit.

If you are unhappy with yours and you have thrown it in a not-to-be-used pile, I will send you my address and shipping costs and take that damaged baby off your hands!

 

[VaporBoxed]

Why? Because the abv never got as dark as my other vaporizers. Even then, I never combusted in my supreme. All i know is something is not right.

and I dont have time to mess around with shipping stuff.

 

[notmyrealUSERname]

Ive been smoking/vaping for over 8 years of my life. Take my word when i tell you it is not resin. I know resin from combustion, its sticky or gooey. This is hard, chips off and is inside of the bowl and the heating block from as far as i can see with a flashlight. I took a needle and chipped off a good sized chunk and it took alot of effort to make it crumble. This looked nothing like any resin i've ever seen. The next thing i tried was a qtip dipped in iso and it did nothing, no residue was on the qtip. So i took apart my supreme (pulled the heating block off of the unit) and soaked the block in iso and rinsed with hot water and it just wouldnt come off. All that works is taking a long needle and chipping off pieces.

I misused the product and something undesirable happened.
Edit: forgot to add







Also: i dont mean to sound brash but when i first read your post i felt offense to "flawed logic." Now that i've re-read it i see where your coming from. Im not sure why the black stuff is not on the outside. Maybe because i torch it off? who knows?

i sometime forget to put those all important qualifiers in front of some of my statements, i should have said, IMO, your logic is flawed. no offense was intended.

if your able to post a picture of your sv then ill be able to tell you if mine looks the same. perhaps others could say whether theirs looks the same as well. i still want to think that there is nothing actually wrong with your sv because otherwise i should be worried as well...

here's a pic of a ha crucible it shows what i think is burnt on resin - http://www.fuckcombustion.com/threads/herbalaire-h2-1.276/page-30#post-43079

^ does yours look like this?

have you tried other cleaning agents other than iso? grunge off works really well on resin stains (if thats what you got), but it may need time to soak, or mutliple applications. also, try cleaning the sv immediately after vaping out of it, the heat will help loosen things up so that the iso and the qtip can work more effectively.

how did you take the heating block off the unit? did you separate it from the wood? if so did you get back together?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I push both bowls as next to the "herb chamber" tube's end, so airflow goes strait into the glass.
So when i need small load i use the 14 mm with stock o-ring. When i want to use more herb i put the 18 mm add-on - a round pyramid bowl which fits the stock o-ring and makes a nice seal.. I put a UD stem o-ring on the 18mm bowl in order to make seal to the SV body.


Btw i am quite sure that this method tech can be used also by loading the aluminium mouthpiece. Just push a screen inside and adjust the the size of the bowl you want.(Even can mode it in direct draw stem like those on log vapes or use an original log vape stem.. )

 

[VaporBoxed]

i sometime forget to put those all important qualifiers in front of some of my statements, i should have said, IMO, your logic is flawed. no offense was intended.

if your able to post a picture of your sv then ill be able to tell you if mine looks the same. perhaps others could say whether theirs looks the same as well. i still want to think that there is nothing actually wrong with your sv because otherwise i should be worried as well...

here's a pic of a ha crucible it shows what i think is burnt on resin - http://www.fuckcombustion.com/threads/herbalaire-h2-1.276/page-30#post-43079

^ does yours look like this?

have you tried other cleaning agents other than iso? grunge off works really well on resin stains (if thats what you got), but it may need time to soak, or mutliple applications. also, try cleaning the sv immediately after vaping out of it, the heat will help loosen things up so that the iso and the qtip can work more effectively.

how did you take the heating block off the unit? did you separate it from the wood? if so did you get back together?

Sorry i have no camera at the moment but to answer your question no your HA bowl looks sorta gooey with vape resin. Mine was brittle and crumbly and the black actually coated the whole inside and chipped off cleanly. Not something ive ever encountered before with any of my vaporizers/pieces.


As ive said, I misused the product. There is nothing wrong with the product if you dont overheat it. From a first hand account, overheating over an extended period may cause this black coat i experienced. But i cannot be sure.

When i took the heating block off i managed to slip the screw out of the bowl hole and twist the block off. The solder to the temp broke off so i dont suggest doing this.

 

[notmyrealUSERname]

I push both bowls as next to the "herb chamber" tube's end, so airflow goes strait into the glass.
So when i need small load i use the 14 mm with stock o-ring. When i want to use more herb i put the 18 mm add-on - a round pyramid bowl which fits the stock o-ring and makes a nice seal.. I put a UD stem o-ring on the 18mm bowl in order to make seal to the SV body.


Btw i am quite sure that this method tech can be used also by loading the aluminium mouthpiece. Just push a screen inside and adjust the the size of the bowl you want.(Even can mode it in direct draw stem like those on log vapes or use an original log vape stem.. )

^ thats very cool! i had no idea what you were talking about until i saw the pics. it looks like it would be very effective, and i love how easy it is to adjust the bowl size - not something you can do as easily in the stock form.

i tried something similar with a 2 hole bent solo stem earlier. i have an sv1 so the wood body is kinda long, and it didn't allow the stem to sit flush with the loading chamber and be sealed by the sv1 silicone ring at the same time. so i wasn't every satisfied with it. it did allow for tasty convection type hits, but they were wispy compared to the devastating clouds that the sv1 can deliver in stock form, which meant i wasn't all that interested.

its possible to buy a straight gong solo stem now, so maybe that might be worth revisting. the only pro or con (depending on your pov) is the tiny size of the bowl.

 

[notmyrealUSERname]

Sorry i have no camera at the moment but to answer your question no your HA bowl looks sorta gooey with vape resin. Mine was brittle and crumbly and the black actually coated the whole inside and chipped off cleanly. Not something ive ever encountered before with any of my vaporizers/pieces.


As ive said, I misused the product. There is nothing wrong with the product if you dont overheat it. From a first hand account, overheating over an extended period may cause this black coat i experienced. But i cannot be sure.

When i took the heating block off i managed to slip the screw out of the bowl hole and twist the block off. The solder to the temp broke off so i dont suggest doing this.

well it sounds like you have tried everything and the problem is still there, kinda sucks i guess. did you know that ed is having a sale on sv2's?

 

[VaporBoxed]

yea it does suck.:/ I think ill pass on this design and see if ed's future products are any better.

 

[Vitolo]

I am loving the Supreme....
BUT, After the first tests... I decided I like it best without water......
IN FACT, I like it best without any hose at all.... straight from the connector that inserts in the bong!

 

[Stu]

Another great vid, Vito.

I'm glad you're enjoying your new toy.

 

[sessnet]

Super, Vitolo! You make things look so easy!

So,

Supreme + Vitolo = Human Chimney ?