FlashVAPE
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Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
There is a consistant drop in performance of the unit. I am also a french customer and my distributor was king-vapo. When i first receive the unit, the screen inside was round and deformed (i still have to reform it to put in it). FV always appears to me as a versatile unit as a sharpen tool, during the first uses, it produced way more than now.
Though FV is a versatile vapo (often compared to a big sport car), i think i found issues of vapor production, S2 battery power and false contact in the bottom cap. That last issue has made me make an official warranty reclaim.
honestly, i was about to order a second FV directly from FV canada to compare performance but my wallet prevented me to. because damn i like FV when it works!
Does anyone can combust with S2 config by pressing button without hitting? I can't. How much a S2 battery last for you? i barely can make one bowl now. I now need some extra fresh (between 80% and 100% i would say) S2 battery to have vapor (few now).
Can we have some feed back? does the behavior of my unit can be called normal from others members?
I know FV is caring very much for his customers.
Though FV is a versatile vapo (often compared to a big sport car), i think i found issues of vapor production, S2 battery power and false contact in the bottom cap. That last issue has made me make an official warranty reclaim.
honestly, i was about to order a second FV directly from FV canada to compare performance but my wallet prevented me to. because damn i like FV when it works!
Does anyone can combust with S2 config by pressing button without hitting? I can't. How much a S2 battery last for you? i barely can make one bowl now. I now need some extra fresh (between 80% and 100% i would say) S2 battery to have vapor (few now).
Can we have some feed back? does the behavior of my unit can be called normal from others members?
I know FV is caring very much for his customers.
OF
Well-Known Member
I think mine changed from when it was brand new, but I just changed my technique some to compensate? I think this may be a common experience.
S2 is convection, it should not work well without air movement. I haven't used it in that mode much, but that much I do know. It depends on your hitting it to move the heat.
The batteries can degrade, depending mostly on abuse, but I don't think anyone has reported that?
The messing with the spring part bothers me. If you're getting poor heat performance in the bowl because of switch or contract problems that missing heat should be showing up there, I'd expect overheated and melted parts?
OF
S2 is convection, it should not work well without air movement. I haven't used it in that mode much, but that much I do know. It depends on your hitting it to move the heat.
The batteries can degrade, depending mostly on abuse, but I don't think anyone has reported that?
The messing with the spring part bothers me. If you're getting poor heat performance in the bowl because of switch or contract problems that missing heat should be showing up there, I'd expect overheated and melted parts?
OF
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
I found also that in S2 config, the way the material was laying on the screen was very important. Before every hit i put the flowers evenly reparted and then i close the bowl.Some session were producing mass heat on the unit but no vapor (as PPN describe it) i think that it is related to the repartition on the screen.
i am sure also that only a 100% battery is giving me good session, with below 80%, no vapor, no heat on the unit etc..
the last issue that made me reclaim is the false contact on the bottom cap with the button.This vapo is hard to master but when you have the good config of material and battery and the light doesn't come is a particular bad feeling.
I also found some iron filings over time from the threading of the bottom cap.
i am sure also that only a 100% battery is giving me good session, with below 80%, no vapor, no heat on the unit etc..
the last issue that made me reclaim is the false contact on the bottom cap with the button.This vapo is hard to master but when you have the good config of material and battery and the light doesn't come is a particular bad feeling.
I also found some iron filings over time from the threading of the bottom cap.
stickstones
Vapor concierge
I had this problem. A replacement bottom assembly fixed it forever.
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
I'm a happy camper tonight. I just received my replacement FV unit. Originally, I bought two; one for myself and one for a friend. His is still going strong, but unfortunately, mine suffered from a burnt out heating element screen after about fifteen bowls. It worked beautifully up until an overnight ISO dip of the main unit (up to the holes as recommended). Two bowls later the light started cutting out and the operating temperature started falling. Then there were a few big flashes down near the heating element screen, followed a bit of smoke as the steel fibers eventually burnt out. I'm not sure if the failure was due to the ISO dip or not, but FlashVAPE thinks it may have been due to the fact that my ISO was only 75%, leaving a thin film of debris behind on some of the heating element fibers, resulting in poor connections and overload of the other fibers. It's safe to say that I won't be dipping my new unit in ISO anytime soon.
Luckily for me, FlashVAPE was great with the warranty / replacement. I had to wait a couple of weeks while they got more ceramic cores made, but I'm told that I now own the brand new FlashVAPE model APR (All Parts Replaceable), which means that even the heating element screen can be replaced now. The threads to access this part/section, located directly under the two large O-rings, are no longer glued. I also received two replacement S2 ceramic spacers (latest design) and two replacement 3.2v batteries since my friend and I both had one fail on us after a few charges.
My initial impressions of the replacement unit:
It felt slightly different in my hand at first. I wasn't sure if it felt lighter, thinner or shorter but I knew it was slightly different (I spent a lot of time holding the previous one- even when I wasn't using it). It turns out that it is different. Well, in the base section anyway. My original base section (which, along with the top section, I didn't need to include when sending the broken unit back to FlashVAPE) is slightly bigger in diameter than the one on the replacement unit, meaning the original base won't thread onto the new unit. So, it's not usable as a future replacement part. That doesn't really bother me though. Luckily, the original top section is exactly the same size as the new one, so at least I have a spare one of those now. One other little quirk I noticed was that the three air holes on one side were not evenly spaced; two holes are almost touching. It's just cosmetic though, so it's no big deal.
Performance wise, it is also slightly different. I didn’t combust at all using the S2 mode on my original unit. I used to hold the power button for 3-4 seconds, and then start to draw whilst keeping the power button down for another 2-7 seconds depending on various factors (battery strength, load stage, load size). The amount and temperature of the vapor told me when to release the power button. This method served me very well. Nice, evenly browned abv with no signs of combustion. However, my replacement unit seems a bit more powerful in S2 mode. Using the same method as before, I've combusted in three out of five bowls so far. It's no big deal; it just means that I have to lay of the power button a little (which should be better for battery life). At the moment, 3-4 seconds on the power button, begin the draw, then continue on power button for 2-3 seconds more seems to be working nicely. Any longer than that is causing combustion. I'm not sure if it's the unit itself or the new spacer set-up that is causing the quicker combustion times.
Either way, I'm just delighted to have this vape back in my life! I've missed it so much! Thanks for all the prompt communication and help with the replacement FlashVAPE! The FV (APR) S2 rocks!!!!
EDIT: Oops! Make that 4 times out of 6 for combustion (must...lay...off...the...power)! I've also noticed that I'm getting more visible vapor from the very first hit on in S2 now. It almost feels like my original unit in S1 (conduction) mode, though I only tried S1 on my original a few times to be fair. It is definitely less forgiving than my original unit.
I've noticed that all the combustion points have been clustered around the middle of the removable screen. Although it's obviously thicker in design, I'm wondering if it's possible that the new, more open-in-the-center spacer, combined with a curved removable screen is bringing my load closer to the heating screen than the previous spacer did?? Unfortunately, I don't have (the remains of) my original spacer to do a controlled test with, though my friend still has his. I'm also going try a new removable screen to see if that makes any difference. And I guess I'll also try the 3.2v batteries in S2 mode, which theoretically, shouldn’t produce much, if any, vapor.
Does anyone else find it easier to combust with the new spacer??
Or maybe I just have a turbo version of the FV; the 2013 FV (APR) S2 TURBO.
Maybe I'll end up needing a special, customized spacer built to handle it's brute power....
Luckily for me, FlashVAPE was great with the warranty / replacement. I had to wait a couple of weeks while they got more ceramic cores made, but I'm told that I now own the brand new FlashVAPE model APR (All Parts Replaceable), which means that even the heating element screen can be replaced now. The threads to access this part/section, located directly under the two large O-rings, are no longer glued. I also received two replacement S2 ceramic spacers (latest design) and two replacement 3.2v batteries since my friend and I both had one fail on us after a few charges.
My initial impressions of the replacement unit:
It felt slightly different in my hand at first. I wasn't sure if it felt lighter, thinner or shorter but I knew it was slightly different (I spent a lot of time holding the previous one- even when I wasn't using it). It turns out that it is different. Well, in the base section anyway. My original base section (which, along with the top section, I didn't need to include when sending the broken unit back to FlashVAPE) is slightly bigger in diameter than the one on the replacement unit, meaning the original base won't thread onto the new unit. So, it's not usable as a future replacement part. That doesn't really bother me though. Luckily, the original top section is exactly the same size as the new one, so at least I have a spare one of those now. One other little quirk I noticed was that the three air holes on one side were not evenly spaced; two holes are almost touching. It's just cosmetic though, so it's no big deal.
Performance wise, it is also slightly different. I didn’t combust at all using the S2 mode on my original unit. I used to hold the power button for 3-4 seconds, and then start to draw whilst keeping the power button down for another 2-7 seconds depending on various factors (battery strength, load stage, load size). The amount and temperature of the vapor told me when to release the power button. This method served me very well. Nice, evenly browned abv with no signs of combustion. However, my replacement unit seems a bit more powerful in S2 mode. Using the same method as before, I've combusted in three out of five bowls so far. It's no big deal; it just means that I have to lay of the power button a little (which should be better for battery life). At the moment, 3-4 seconds on the power button, begin the draw, then continue on power button for 2-3 seconds more seems to be working nicely. Any longer than that is causing combustion. I'm not sure if it's the unit itself or the new spacer set-up that is causing the quicker combustion times.
Either way, I'm just delighted to have this vape back in my life! I've missed it so much! Thanks for all the prompt communication and help with the replacement FlashVAPE! The FV (APR) S2 rocks!!!!
EDIT: Oops! Make that 4 times out of 6 for combustion (must...lay...off...the...power)! I've also noticed that I'm getting more visible vapor from the very first hit on in S2 now. It almost feels like my original unit in S1 (conduction) mode, though I only tried S1 on my original a few times to be fair. It is definitely less forgiving than my original unit.
I've noticed that all the combustion points have been clustered around the middle of the removable screen. Although it's obviously thicker in design, I'm wondering if it's possible that the new, more open-in-the-center spacer, combined with a curved removable screen is bringing my load closer to the heating screen than the previous spacer did?? Unfortunately, I don't have (the remains of) my original spacer to do a controlled test with, though my friend still has his. I'm also going try a new removable screen to see if that makes any difference. And I guess I'll also try the 3.2v batteries in S2 mode, which theoretically, shouldn’t produce much, if any, vapor.
Does anyone else find it easier to combust with the new spacer??
Or maybe I just have a turbo version of the FV; the 2013 FV (APR) S2 TURBO.
Maybe I'll end up needing a special, customized spacer built to handle it's brute power....
well.. we were holding off on the announcement of the FV APR version, until all things are finalized. but I am happy to confirm that YES, we have implemented changes to the FV to make the heating element, arguably the most important part of the FV, easily replaceable!
We are working on getting the heating element listed as an available accessory very soon, probably within the next week or two. please find below some pictures of how easy it is to replace the heating element in the FV. If you can unscrew the top part of the ceramic bowl on your FV, you can replace the heating element screen! With the very first release of the FV, we did not design the unit to have an user serviceable heating element screen as we were afraid of damage to this vital part if the unit was able to be disassembled. However, as development of the FV progressed, we realized the importance of the APR concept... empowering owners to service their vape in the comfort and convenience of their own home or LHS will truly make the FV the ultimate portable vape!
also, as Lizard King mentioned, we've implemented changes to the thread pattern on the base switch/handle section, and FVs are now fitted with a multi-start thread at this joint, with square grove pattern. This means only 1/3 of the number of turns are required now to secure the 2 parts together, and with much smoother action. This change is implemented to address the problem some owners reported earlier with the ceasing of these 2 parts. It is still recommended, however, that some lubrication be applied to the this thread once in a while to keep the action smooth.
we are always looking at ways to make the FV even better and more reliable. APR (all parts replaceable) is a concept we are working towards which will allow easy servicing of the FV by the average owner at home, with very basic tools required. when all the details of the FV APR are finalized, it will be posted on FC first
2) slide the new heating element screen in place, with the 2 preformed channels on the heating element screen lined up with the 2 slots on the ceramic base.
3) press the 2 copper connecting rods back down into the slots to secure the heating element screen in place.
4) re-attach the top ceramic bowl onto the guide pins, line up the vent holes on the sides (you can insert a thin metal wire through the vent holes to hold it in place while you attach the top part)
5) ...and screw the retainer back tightly... and voila! you've got a new heating element screen in your FV!
so after you try out your FV with the new heating element screen, you may end up like these smurfs below:
We are working on getting the heating element listed as an available accessory very soon, probably within the next week or two. please find below some pictures of how easy it is to replace the heating element in the FV. If you can unscrew the top part of the ceramic bowl on your FV, you can replace the heating element screen! With the very first release of the FV, we did not design the unit to have an user serviceable heating element screen as we were afraid of damage to this vital part if the unit was able to be disassembled. However, as development of the FV progressed, we realized the importance of the APR concept... empowering owners to service their vape in the comfort and convenience of their own home or LHS will truly make the FV the ultimate portable vape!
also, as Lizard King mentioned, we've implemented changes to the thread pattern on the base switch/handle section, and FVs are now fitted with a multi-start thread at this joint, with square grove pattern. This means only 1/3 of the number of turns are required now to secure the 2 parts together, and with much smoother action. This change is implemented to address the problem some owners reported earlier with the ceasing of these 2 parts. It is still recommended, however, that some lubrication be applied to the this thread once in a while to keep the action smooth.
we are always looking at ways to make the FV even better and more reliable. APR (all parts replaceable) is a concept we are working towards which will allow easy servicing of the FV by the average owner at home, with very basic tools required. when all the details of the FV APR are finalized, it will be posted on FC first
====================================
HOW TO REPLACE FV HEATING ELEMENT SCREEN
====================================
1) unscrew the top ceramic bowl retainer and remove the top ceramic bowl (notice the 2 stainless steel guide pins in place to secure the top portion of the ceramic bowl to the bottom ceramic base). use a precision screw driver, lift up the 2 copper connecting rods and remove the old heating element screen.
2) slide the new heating element screen in place, with the 2 preformed channels on the heating element screen lined up with the 2 slots on the ceramic base.
3) press the 2 copper connecting rods back down into the slots to secure the heating element screen in place.
4) re-attach the top ceramic bowl onto the guide pins, line up the vent holes on the sides (you can insert a thin metal wire through the vent holes to hold it in place while you attach the top part)
5) ...and screw the retainer back tightly... and voila! you've got a new heating element screen in your FV!
=========================
so after you try out your FV with the new heating element screen, you may end up like these smurfs below:
stickstones
Vapor concierge
any idea how many bends the copper wires can take before they snap?
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
Oh no! I had no idea it was still a secret! Sorry about that FV!
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
FV supports his customers as usual. thank you FV for your services. I send my unit back ASAP.
the last story of replaced unit reminded me some flashes probably in the heating screen as i always hit FV with a mflb+glass stem whip looking straight up the bowl.
This annoncement for new version put me in joy! Now i hope to not combusting too much with it. I am about to receive 2 more S2 batteries.
My wallet will be upset to buy a new accessory heating screen, new stems
I still really hope FV plans for us a power adaptator for this beautifull "katana" for vapor!
the last story of replaced unit reminded me some flashes probably in the heating screen as i always hit FV with a mflb+glass stem whip looking straight up the bowl.
This annoncement for new version put me in joy! Now i hope to not combusting too much with it. I am about to receive 2 more S2 batteries.
My wallet will be upset to buy a new accessory
heating screen, new stemsI still really hope FV plans for us a power adaptator for this beautifull "katana" for vapor!
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
FlashVAPE has assured me that it's not the new spacer causing the extra power/heat. He says the new heating screen may cause it to run slightly hotter than my previous unit. So, it turns out that I do have a turbo version after all....
If you find that your unit is running slightly hotter than before (and you are combusting), try cutting back a little on the power-on time, and pulse the power (on/off/on/off) may be a quick way to remedy the problem with combustion. It takes a little time to master the technique, but will be very rewarding once you've got it down pat!
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
The sword is returning to his blacksmith.
I have had a chance to compare a new FV with my original, and I now understand why Joekickass and some others had results quite different from me. As I've suspected for a while, there are two types of FV and one runs significantly hotter. I don't think there's any way to tell them apart except by experiment. I asked FlashVAPE about this and it seems that some of the changes for APR means that all new FVs will run hot.
Some of you will remember that I said that with the S2 spacer, I could keep the power on for 15-20 seconds without combustion. Well, with the new unit and the new S2 spacer, I get combustion at about the six second mark. I verified these times using the same material and the same battery. What this means is that the timings in the FV tip sheet won't work, they'll cause combustion. It's not difficult to adjust once you're aware of the difference, but it sure caught me off guard.
Some of you will remember that I said that with the S2 spacer, I could keep the power on for 15-20 seconds without combustion. Well, with the new unit and the new S2 spacer, I get combustion at about the six second mark. I verified these times using the same material and the same battery. What this means is that the timings in the FV tip sheet won't work, they'll cause combustion. It's not difficult to adjust once you're aware of the difference, but it sure caught me off guard.
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
I concur! I'm combusting (same material, same battery) at exactly 6 seconds from first power on (and even quicker when it gets going) with the new FV S2. It also caught me off-guard, and still is. May I ask, how have you adjusted your methods? I'm ashamed to say that I've combusted in 6 out of 8 bowls so far. It's also feeling a bit hotter in the hand now.
I'm wondering if the operating temp. will drop off slightly over time? I'm not really sure how these things work though.
I'm about to try the 3.2v batteries in S2 to see what happens.
Been there, done that. It will work but barely.
I've just adjusted my counts. For the S2 I start hitting at 3 and power off at about 5-6. Oddly, I didn't have to adjust nearly as much when using it in conduction mode.
Lizard King
Well-Known Member
You were right.
For S2, I'm hitting at 2 and powering off at 4-5. As the bowl progresses, I'm hitting at 2 and powering off at 4. I've also began experimenting with faster draws. I've had some success with pulse method too.
I've just finished a bowl in regular S1 conduction mode with the 3.2v battery and it was FANTASTIC. Not a hint of combustion anywhere. Perfectly even abv. It was working in a very similar way to how my original unit operated in S2. I was hitting at 3 and powering off 3-7 seconds later depending on the variables. I'm currently finding it much easier to judge the right 'power off time' (by the taste/heat of the vapor) in this mode.
Vapodudule
Well-Known Member
Yay! i salivate, to my future sessions with both mode. With original FV S2, I personnaly make pulse method and huges and briefs or longs breaths to with constant looking (whip always) to identify the vapor flux.
Two consequences: upper glass cloggs fast so that you can't see vapor (but you can clean it in a eyeblink) and takaway big heat with big breathe to control vapor production visually.
Two consequences: upper glass cloggs fast so that you can't see vapor (but you can clean it in a eyeblink) and takaway big heat with big breathe to control vapor production visually.
ru_frothi
Portable Vaporist
Thanks for the confirmation. Its what I would have expected given my experience with other non electronic thermostat vapes. I've seen similar things with the MFLB ad THC's hammer rods. Can't say I've compared more different TV units so I can't say anything there.
Very excited about the APR. FV did indicate when doing the RMA that he would sending the newer user servicable unit.
Speaking of JKA? Where yat?
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
My FV must be one that runs cooler I can't combust in S2 mode if I try , that said I love this thing in conduction mode with the S2 batteries its awesome . But now in a few months I can see buying a newer hotter one to use in convection mode . so many choices so little Time [and by time i mean money]
ROCK ON !
ROCK ON !
Kuroth1
Get your Freak on....
So I am confused.. Will I have to buy a new FV or can I convert mine to this?well.. we were holding off on the announcement of the FV APR version, until all things are finalized. but I am happy to confirm that YES, we have implemented changes to the FV to make the heating element, arguably the most important part of the FV, easily replaceable!
We are working on getting the heating element listed as an available accessory very soon, probably within the next week or two. please find below some pictures of how easy it is to replace the heating element in the FV. If you can unscrew the top part of the ceramic bowl on your FV, you can replace the heating element screen! With the very first release of the FV, we did not design the unit to have an user serviceable heating element screen as we were afraid of damage to this vital part if the unit was able to be disassembled. However, as development of the FV progressed, we realized the importance of the APR concept... empowering owners to service their vape in the comfort and convenience of their own home or LHS will truly make the FV the ultimate portable vape!
also, as Lizard King mentioned, we've implemented changes to the thread pattern on the base switch/handle section, and FVs are now fitted with a multi-start thread at this joint, with square grove pattern. This means only 1/3 of the number of turns are required now to secure the 2 parts together, and with much smoother action. This change is implemented to address the problem some owners reported earlier with the ceasing of these 2 parts. It is still recommended, however, that some lubrication be applied to the this thread once in a while to keep the action smooth.
we are always looking at ways to make the FV even better and more reliable. APR (all parts replaceable) is a concept we are working towards which will allow easy servicing of the FV by the average owner at home, with very basic tools required. when all the details of the FV APR are finalized, it will be posted on FC first
====================================HOW TO REPLACE FV HEATING ELEMENT SCREEN====================================1) unscrew the top ceramic bowl retainer and remove the top ceramic bowl (notice the 2 stainless steel guide pins in place to secure the top portion of the ceramic bowl to the bottom ceramic base). use a precision screw driver, lift up the 2 copper connecting rods and remove the old heating element screen.
2) slide the new heating element screen in place, with the 2 preformed channels on the heating element screen lined up with the 2 slots on the ceramic base.
3) press the 2 copper connecting rods back down into the slots to secure the heating element screen in place.
4) re-attach the top ceramic bowl onto the guide pins, line up the vent holes on the sides (you can insert a thin metal wire through the vent holes to hold it in place while you attach the top part)
5) ...and screw the retainer back tightly... and voila! you've got a new heating element screen in your FV!
=========================
so after you try out your FV with the new heating element screen, you may end up like these smurfs below: