Iolite vaporiser
- Thread starter i-olite
- Start date
biojuggernaut
Snob
This is a double post but hopefully it doesn't piss off any of the mods.
Anybody try those RooR mouth pieces yet? The flat one looks amazing; and I've had no such luck find a 14male adapter for the whisper for a water pipe or the Helix pipe.
Questions: What performs better the Iolite with the optimiser or the whispr? Can the optimiser fit in the whispr? Is the iolite stem the same in diameter as the whispr?
Anybody try those RooR mouth pieces yet? The flat one looks amazing; and I've had no such luck find a 14male adapter for the whisper for a water pipe or the Helix pipe.
Questions: What performs better the Iolite with the optimiser or the whispr? Can the optimiser fit in the whispr? Is the iolite stem the same in diameter as the whispr?
Joint_Specialist
Well-Known Member
MrNorml said:
Hell yeah! The Czech pipe tool is a fine little gadget. Highly recommended. The tamper fits perfectly in the Iolite chamber so you can easily crush and stir your herb after a few hits to fully release the plant resins.
If you plan to buy one make sure you get the one that says "Made in Czech Republic" on the side. All the generic knockoffs are rather chintzy. They are typically available at traditional cigar stores but I've seen them at a few good head shops too.
Hello FC,
Haven't posted in a while, but been having a great time with my Iolite! But after half a year of semi heavy usage I can only describe my Iolite condition as an "old man". The butane doesn't come out as fast any more. It doesnt light quickly sometimes it takes up to 5 minutes or more of me clicking the starter thing and while it does show a spark it never catches. I've only used Vector butane and always purge the tank before adding any more. Is there anything I can do to increase the flow of butane?
If i need to send this in, is there any way I can take out the heating pin to clean it? Or just clean it in general? its pretty dark down there and you know what I'm taking about
Thanks for the advice!
Haven't posted in a while, but been having a great time with my Iolite! But after half a year of semi heavy usage I can only describe my Iolite condition as an "old man". The butane doesn't come out as fast any more. It doesnt light quickly sometimes it takes up to 5 minutes or more of me clicking the starter thing and while it does show a spark it never catches. I've only used Vector butane and always purge the tank before adding any more. Is there anything I can do to increase the flow of butane?
If i need to send this in, is there any way I can take out the heating pin to clean it? Or just clean it in general? its pretty dark down there and you know what I'm taking about
Thanks for the advice!
IOLite V1 My Problems, Remedies and Mods (merged)
IOLite V1 My Problems, Remedies and Mods
If there has ever been a guy with bad luck as far as receiving buggy product, well that would be me. I am constantly being tested for my trouble shooting skills which for the most part have not let me down.
I have purchased one of these puppies after doing much research and this model has been tried and proven for a long time now. I picked it up for $99.95 as it was the V1 model. Which leads me to my first question:
What is the actual difference between vintages? (besides the colour)
I actually ordered two as I had a friend who wanted one as well and this worked out well as it gave me a second unit to compare the performance to. This proved helpful to resolve some of the gremlins I had.
1/ Hits seemed to have too much back pressure.
I searched for this problem to find most users complaining about this were told to pack the bowl more loosely. In my case, this would be completely the wrong answer.
The problem ended up been that the mouthpiece was assembled wrong from the factory. The heat resistant disk which the bowl goes into and screws onto the mouth piece was
seated into the wrong holding slots in the housing. This lowered the bowl into the heat chamber by about 2 mm too far. Thus, impairing airflow around the bottom of heating chamber. This problem compounded with the little play (movement) there is with bowl movement within this disk.
The remedy was to take housing apart and put disk into proper slot. I also used a metal washer around the bottom of mouthpiece to eliminate the movement.
The housing comes apart surprisingly easy. Simply remove bowl and mouthpiece. Use thumbs in bowl hole the pull halves apart. Once you start to split the two pieces use a small slot head screw driver to separate the pieces evenly.
Now back pressure is the same as other unit.
BONUS: Once I re-assembled, it also solved a different problem which I though was normal. The bowl/mouthpiece now stays in place much better and actually snaps into place. I was using a hair band to give me better confidence as to not to spill in pocket. Now I have more confidence that it will not to open prematurely.
2/ Gas consumption/filling problems.
Sometimes the unit would run out of gas 10 minutes into the vaping session. Booooo
Tried the purging advise which sure helped and unit seemed to fill better. Was still not comfortable with the feel of the way it seemed to fill and much wastage to confirm a full charge. (it sucks driving and the thing pitters out)
I determined I needed to see what was happening inside when I was filling it up. A modification was needed for this:
So I modded the sucker. Now I discovered what was happening. The valve indeed behaves differently then the other unit. As the fill valve is pressed it opens as you would expect however (a big however in this case), it closes again when a little more pressure is applied. This combined with the fact that the supply can of butane generally takes more pressure to open then the IO creates a small window where the gas is actually going into the device. Thus wasting a lot of gas. Worst case was when not using enough pressure to open the supply can but enough to open the IO allowing gas to escape. This was the culprit wasting my gas. I could clearly see this with the mod. I will post the how to for this mod in separate post.
Therefore, the remedy in this case was education and modding unit to achieve confidence in having a full tank.
Notes:
Gas life- Good for 2 each 15 20 minute sessions. 3 is too risky.
The tank has some kind of buffer material in it, 1/3 of the tank (closest to outlet valve) has white cotton looking stuff and there is also some darker material which does have movement while filling or purging.
Second question:
Anyone know what this is and why so much of it? (Most lighters and torches have a thin white strip of material only)
And a third question:
From a couple things I read it says to purge hold the IO upside down (fill side down) and disperse the gas. Why? To me this should be the other way around as the purpose is to evacuate any air or propellant from the butane. Pushing the fluid out first while purging needs an explaination for me to understand. Although it works..Also, in this explanation why do they say to shake the fill can before using? Again, to me this is backward as the propellant is in the air portion so been gentle makes more sense trying NOT to mix the propellant and butane.
3/ Slow heat up time. 4 -5 minutes to get going optimal. Second unit good to go in 2 minutes.
Well, what can I say. While I had it opened I had a close look at the bi-metal thermostat to determine whats up.
It consists of two kinds of metal held together by two pressure pins. I found one of mine was slightly crooked. I used pliers to push it strait the same as other side was. I also gave it a few taps with the handle of a screw driver just to looser the connection up a bit.
To actually attempt an adjustment would be more then likely have devastating results. I believe the setting would be the thickness of the plates combined with the pressure of the two clips.
Anyway after testing again, the thing reacts the same as second unit. SUCCESS.or luck?
4/ Heating chamber discoloured away faster then second IO.
Now this is just down right freaky. Same unit, same herb, similar usage. Second units heating chamber is still shiny with the exception of the center pin. Now on mine, it lost its shine but the center pin is not that bad. Too early to tell but suspect it may have to do with the same problem as above and may now be working the same as second IO. No conclusion to this at this time. Only small difference in usage is that second unit was used with that optional three prong heat distributer right from the start. I didnt start until using after a few days of use.
5/ Igniter Failure.
After getting the unit to work pretty much the same as the second unit I enjoyed all of 2 days before the igniter started feeling odd and took multiple clicks to ignite. Then no click and no ignition. Crap, really pissed at this point and was sure it was nothing I did while inside it. I knew I would have a hard time with warranty as I did open it. Before exploring this route I thought that igniter looked the same as other lighter/torch igniters Ive seen. I did have an old touch lighter I bought for the VG but never worked out for that purpose. Took that unit apart and surprise, surprise and a wonderful surprise in deed.
Not only was it the exact same looking part including the wire lengths but it has a quieter click and ignites 1st click EVERY time. Man what a relief.
Feels great the just click once and see that red glow start right away. Knock on wood, have never had to double click since replacement.
Well that it for out of the box troubles. Now for some enhancements(the fun stuff)
First off, that plastic thing they call a mouth piece. Used once and knew it had to go.
Saw pics of rubber hosing some off to the medical supply shop. In my case it was a Shoppers Medical supply center. (It was located right beside a Shoppers Drug Mart)
They had it in two thicknesses with the same ID (internal diameter). I got 4 feet of each at a cost of $2 per foot. Ended up using the thicker tube for a shorter 4 and the thinner stuff for a 3 foot piece of the thinner wall for use when not needing a portable.
Used a e-cigarette drip tip for the mouth piece. Trimmed the rubber using toenail clippers to round off the rubber at the mouth piece for cosmetic appearance. As for the stand, I found a support for one of my internet routers fix perfect.
After using this unit for over a month now I found it just keeps getting better. At first I was impatient in waiting up to 5 minutes but the wait time seems to get shorter as it works in. I was also using the 3 prong optional heat distributor to quicken the process but found now I dont need it. Makes filling and emptying much easier as well.
As for using it for quick couple hits, useless. You need to have the time put aside.
However, I found you can cut it down somewhat by leaving some previously vaped herb in the unit and use as filler. Trying to put just a bit in a empty bowl will not give consistent hits but spermatic at best.
The vapor density could be thicker but personally if it was I would be coughing a lot more as Im at the border line with what this puts out. So just about right for me.
So to round things up for now.
As for the goods, well lets just say EVERYTHING except for the bads
The bads:
Mouthpiece is a joke.
Sound of hissing does take away from the stealth perspective.
Heat up to optimum temp is a little long.
Flexibility of quantity of herb.
Confirmation of full charge needed.
Well Im getting tired of typing, after all this is my first post.
Pipes
IOLite V1 My Problems, Remedies and Mods
If there has ever been a guy with bad luck as far as receiving buggy product, well that would be me. I am constantly being tested for my trouble shooting skills which for the most part have not let me down.
I have purchased one of these puppies after doing much research and this model has been tried and proven for a long time now. I picked it up for $99.95 as it was the V1 model. Which leads me to my first question:
What is the actual difference between vintages? (besides the colour)
I actually ordered two as I had a friend who wanted one as well and this worked out well as it gave me a second unit to compare the performance to. This proved helpful to resolve some of the gremlins I had.
1/ Hits seemed to have too much back pressure.
I searched for this problem to find most users complaining about this were told to pack the bowl more loosely. In my case, this would be completely the wrong answer.
The problem ended up been that the mouthpiece was assembled wrong from the factory. The heat resistant disk which the bowl goes into and screws onto the mouth piece was
seated into the wrong holding slots in the housing. This lowered the bowl into the heat chamber by about 2 mm too far. Thus, impairing airflow around the bottom of heating chamber. This problem compounded with the little play (movement) there is with bowl movement within this disk.
The remedy was to take housing apart and put disk into proper slot. I also used a metal washer around the bottom of mouthpiece to eliminate the movement.
The housing comes apart surprisingly easy. Simply remove bowl and mouthpiece. Use thumbs in bowl hole the pull halves apart. Once you start to split the two pieces use a small slot head screw driver to separate the pieces evenly.
Now back pressure is the same as other unit.
BONUS: Once I re-assembled, it also solved a different problem which I though was normal. The bowl/mouthpiece now stays in place much better and actually snaps into place. I was using a hair band to give me better confidence as to not to spill in pocket. Now I have more confidence that it will not to open prematurely.
2/ Gas consumption/filling problems.
Sometimes the unit would run out of gas 10 minutes into the vaping session. Booooo
Tried the purging advise which sure helped and unit seemed to fill better. Was still not comfortable with the feel of the way it seemed to fill and much wastage to confirm a full charge. (it sucks driving and the thing pitters out)
I determined I needed to see what was happening inside when I was filling it up. A modification was needed for this:
So I modded the sucker. Now I discovered what was happening. The valve indeed behaves differently then the other unit. As the fill valve is pressed it opens as you would expect however (a big however in this case), it closes again when a little more pressure is applied. This combined with the fact that the supply can of butane generally takes more pressure to open then the IO creates a small window where the gas is actually going into the device. Thus wasting a lot of gas. Worst case was when not using enough pressure to open the supply can but enough to open the IO allowing gas to escape. This was the culprit wasting my gas. I could clearly see this with the mod. I will post the how to for this mod in separate post.
Therefore, the remedy in this case was education and modding unit to achieve confidence in having a full tank.
Notes:
Gas life- Good for 2 each 15 20 minute sessions. 3 is too risky.
The tank has some kind of buffer material in it, 1/3 of the tank (closest to outlet valve) has white cotton looking stuff and there is also some darker material which does have movement while filling or purging.
Second question:
Anyone know what this is and why so much of it? (Most lighters and torches have a thin white strip of material only)
And a third question:
From a couple things I read it says to purge hold the IO upside down (fill side down) and disperse the gas. Why? To me this should be the other way around as the purpose is to evacuate any air or propellant from the butane. Pushing the fluid out first while purging needs an explaination for me to understand. Although it works..Also, in this explanation why do they say to shake the fill can before using? Again, to me this is backward as the propellant is in the air portion so been gentle makes more sense trying NOT to mix the propellant and butane.
3/ Slow heat up time. 4 -5 minutes to get going optimal. Second unit good to go in 2 minutes.
Well, what can I say. While I had it opened I had a close look at the bi-metal thermostat to determine whats up.
It consists of two kinds of metal held together by two pressure pins. I found one of mine was slightly crooked. I used pliers to push it strait the same as other side was. I also gave it a few taps with the handle of a screw driver just to looser the connection up a bit.
To actually attempt an adjustment would be more then likely have devastating results. I believe the setting would be the thickness of the plates combined with the pressure of the two clips.
Anyway after testing again, the thing reacts the same as second unit. SUCCESS.or luck?
4/ Heating chamber discoloured away faster then second IO.
Now this is just down right freaky. Same unit, same herb, similar usage. Second units heating chamber is still shiny with the exception of the center pin. Now on mine, it lost its shine but the center pin is not that bad. Too early to tell but suspect it may have to do with the same problem as above and may now be working the same as second IO. No conclusion to this at this time. Only small difference in usage is that second unit was used with that optional three prong heat distributer right from the start. I didnt start until using after a few days of use.
5/ Igniter Failure.
After getting the unit to work pretty much the same as the second unit I enjoyed all of 2 days before the igniter started feeling odd and took multiple clicks to ignite. Then no click and no ignition. Crap, really pissed at this point and was sure it was nothing I did while inside it. I knew I would have a hard time with warranty as I did open it. Before exploring this route I thought that igniter looked the same as other lighter/torch igniters Ive seen. I did have an old touch lighter I bought for the VG but never worked out for that purpose. Took that unit apart and surprise, surprise and a wonderful surprise in deed.
Not only was it the exact same looking part including the wire lengths but it has a quieter click and ignites 1st click EVERY time. Man what a relief.
Feels great the just click once and see that red glow start right away. Knock on wood, have never had to double click since replacement.
Well that it for out of the box troubles. Now for some enhancements(the fun stuff)
First off, that plastic thing they call a mouth piece. Used once and knew it had to go.
Saw pics of rubber hosing some off to the medical supply shop. In my case it was a Shoppers Medical supply center. (It was located right beside a Shoppers Drug Mart)
They had it in two thicknesses with the same ID (internal diameter). I got 4 feet of each at a cost of $2 per foot. Ended up using the thicker tube for a shorter 4 and the thinner stuff for a 3 foot piece of the thinner wall for use when not needing a portable.
Used a e-cigarette drip tip for the mouth piece. Trimmed the rubber using toenail clippers to round off the rubber at the mouth piece for cosmetic appearance. As for the stand, I found a support for one of my internet routers fix perfect.
After using this unit for over a month now I found it just keeps getting better. At first I was impatient in waiting up to 5 minutes but the wait time seems to get shorter as it works in. I was also using the 3 prong optional heat distributor to quicken the process but found now I dont need it. Makes filling and emptying much easier as well.
As for using it for quick couple hits, useless. You need to have the time put aside.
However, I found you can cut it down somewhat by leaving some previously vaped herb in the unit and use as filler. Trying to put just a bit in a empty bowl will not give consistent hits but spermatic at best.
The vapor density could be thicker but personally if it was I would be coughing a lot more as Im at the border line with what this puts out. So just about right for me.
So to round things up for now.
As for the goods, well lets just say EVERYTHING except for the bads
The bads:
Mouthpiece is a joke.
Sound of hissing does take away from the stealth perspective.
Heat up to optimum temp is a little long.
Flexibility of quantity of herb.
Confirmation of full charge needed.
Well Im getting tired of typing, after all this is my first post.
Pipes
OF
Well-Known Member
Pipes said:
I guess I don't follow what that means, but if the idea is to have a separate thread on a model specific topic that's generally not how it's done here it seems. Everything to do with a given model goes in the same thread.
You've asked a pile of questions, I'll take a lash at a few.
AFAIK the major difference in models is the way the bowl is made, the first ones had a removable pin that had thread issues.
The stuff in the tank is a wick/filter material that keeps it feeding well in any position. Even though you didn't ask, I find weight is an excellent way to judge fuel. It will hold just over 3 grams, which will honestly burn for two hours. You get less burn time if you shut it down and start it and also if you hit it a lot (draw lots of cold air in), but I find a full fill gives me two sessions of 15 or a few more minutes on each of two bowls (four total sessions) and have half a gram or so left.
I'd be careful prying the cases apart, later models have a pair of torx screws under the grip panel on the side with 'made in Ireland' on it IIRC.
Not sure what to say about the funny filling with the valve, none of the three I've owned do this. They all fill easily. The idea of dumping the liquid gas is to dump the liquid gas. This removes debris, water and other contamination. Also most importantly to us, are varnishes and other junk dissolved in the Butane that get left behind as deposits when the Butane solvent evaporates off at the metering orifice.....potentially shutting it down. If you vent off the gas, this junk stays behind. Blowing off the liquid hopefully carries it away.
This is the basis of the 'full and purge' cycles suggested to cure all sorts of ills.
You shake the gas can before use to mix the gas types. There's Propane in with the Butane so it will have useful pressure at low temperatures. Mixing it up keeps you from getting a fill of all Propane (which burns differently), it has noting to do with 'air' in the can, there is none. What isn't liquid is gas vapor. Pressure is controlled by temperature not some 'pressurizing agent' like spray paint or PAM. In a fun what, the stuff in the gas can is what's typically used as that pressurizing agent in those products.
I'm sure I missed some points, no big deal. If nobody else gets them, please bring them up again?
OF
OF said:
Yes, a thread more about problems out of the box type thing. Organizing for Newbies I guess. Kinda wish I found such a thread putting a seemingly simple device into prospective. One word that sticks out in my mind about this device and rings true in so many ways is PATIENCE. It will creep up and grab you by the booby.
OF said:
Have tried different nozzles, brands, techniques and pressures but still end up jabbing it till I get good flow. And if I press too hard with good flow going it stops. This would be next to impossible without a viewing port. Getting the nak of it but definitely is not right. Going to compare with the other unit which buddy has no problem with and also gets longer time between fill ups. I have never actually filled his myself. Mean while I think I will do a double purch as is does seem to help.
This is where I'm confused. They sell both a "V!" model and an "Original" model. I bought the less expensive V1 and the post is not screwable. Also, while I had it opened I noticed the gas tubing has been beefed up. From what I have read some had problems with tube pinching? So does the "Original" have a improved removable post? What makes it 50% more expensive?OF said:
Thanks,
Does anybody know where to get the switch part for the iolite? I emailed the company but they said they aren't allowed to give out information about the inside. They also said that they are not allowed to provide interior parts for the iolite. The switch I'm talking about is the plastic part that you flip when you turn it on. It sits on another plastic part right under the butane tank. It looks like a circle with two notches in it and two upright supports. I opened up my iolite and found it broken and I don't want to waste a perfectly good vape because a 5 cent plastic piece broke...... Has anyone had this probelm and fixed it sucessfully? I tried to glue it but it just ended up breaking again, so I wanted to get the replacement piece but I have no idea where to find it. Any help?
MrNorml
Well-Known Member
Warranty department and/or email responsibilities for Iolite are not what they could be.
Sometime early Jan I returned an Iolite with RMA. Never heard anything. Monday emailed, providing RMA and asking status. Never heard anything. Which is too bad as I would enjoy having it, and not having it means I'm using the competition. Competition isn't as good for travelling around town. But we get by day by day . . .
Sometime early Jan I returned an Iolite with RMA. Never heard anything. Monday emailed, providing RMA and asking status. Never heard anything. Which is too bad as I would enjoy having it, and not having it means I'm using the competition. Competition isn't as good for travelling around town. But we get by day by day . . .
MrNorml
Well-Known Member
Pat12 said:
Then you have to figure out what model it is. Someone says Iolite never had any differences. Someone mentioned the center pin. Smoking tip also changed. So did fit of bowl into chamber (to reduce stem falling out). Anyhow, I bet there are broken Iolites in this thread; if Iolite won't take back the 2nd unit I have been trying to get them to deal with I would consider sending it to you. It has ... either defective fuel line or won't spark, can't remember which broken one I still have.
I am making this post as for a guide to know what's under the hood of an IOLite V1. And included the modifications I have made to my IO.
Do not attemp to take apart unless you are comfortable with voiding your warranty if you screw up.
There are two screws under the rubber side sticker on upper side as unit rests with the igniter button on the left. (Upper side in pic)
I have found that that last corner by the ignitor button is a little tough. The trick is to pry it evenly as not to snap the guide pin. Once it pops apart the parts should be as below. Only two pieces might pop out and be questionable as to where they go. The conductor pin which presses against the copper cap of ignitor and the gas inlet value. And the copper cap itself which fits over the end of igniter.
This is the bi-metal thermostat. Note the pressure clips holding the two metals together.
Here you can see the inner side of the chamber which gets the direct heat from flame.
Ingiter wire pulled out. It just sits in there and placement changes how easily it lights. If sitting just right your IO should light on 1st click every time.
Here's the best shot
All fired up:
Naked:
The gas hosing.
Gas Gauge Mod:
Sound Mod: Somewhat successful. Note I did have to cut (trim) some of the plastic away from where the clamp pins reside.
Table Top Mod:
Cheers, The Pipes
Do not attemp to take apart unless you are comfortable with voiding your warranty if you screw up.
There are two screws under the rubber side sticker on upper side as unit rests with the igniter button on the left. (Upper side in pic)
I have found that that last corner by the ignitor button is a little tough. The trick is to pry it evenly as not to snap the guide pin. Once it pops apart the parts should be as below. Only two pieces might pop out and be questionable as to where they go. The conductor pin which presses against the copper cap of ignitor and the gas inlet value. And the copper cap itself which fits over the end of igniter.
This is the bi-metal thermostat. Note the pressure clips holding the two metals together.
Here you can see the inner side of the chamber which gets the direct heat from flame.
Ingiter wire pulled out. It just sits in there and placement changes how easily it lights. If sitting just right your IO should light on 1st click every time.
Here's the best shot
All fired up:
Naked:
The gas hosing.
Gas Gauge Mod:
Sound Mod: Somewhat successful. Note I did have to cut (trim) some of the plastic away from where the clamp pins reside.
Table Top Mod:
Cheers, The Pipes
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Woah Dude ! Thx for the awesome photos and tour inside of a vape . You for sure are a handyman 
.
.
Vapinghole
Low-Temp Hempist / JedHI Master
Holy Cow! That's very cool. Love the mod.
MrNorml said:
Oh that sounds good. I have the first generation one. The ones they originally came out with. Does nobody know where to get spare parts from I mean they have to come from somewhere..... I doubt Olgesby & Butler make all their parts themselves..... That'd be cool. Is there any way I can message you on this, I dont use forums a lot but usually they have messages?
That gas switch is going to be tricky to change out. No way would that be sold separately. Would be much easier to just change the whole tank. If warranty not an issue you may as well open it up and remove the tank. I never removed the lower part where the switch is but looks like do-able but would not risk it, but sounds like you would not have anything to loose. I kind of think the broken piece might be replaceable with some jerry rigging. Why not take it apart and take some photos and let us see what's needed. Maybe make something to replace the broken part. Always a way.
slowanimals
Well-Known Member
Hey I just bought an iolite from a friend, and I kinda messed it up by dropping it. I ended up opening the thing up and found the igniter is broke. I want to replace it, but I don't know what to replace it with. I've heard that the electric lighters use the same igniter?
This is my first vape, and only had it two days. I loved it til it stopped working, but can somebody guide me on how these parts go together?
This is my first vape, and only had it two days. I loved it til it stopped working, but can somebody guide me on how these parts go together?
You're answer is back a page. Now that I know what they look like they are very very common. If you check out the torch lighters around they almost all use the same ignitor. Even the wire length seems standard.
slowanimals
Well-Known Member
I went out last night and bought a torch lighter. Took that thing apart and found out the wire is too short, only about an inch long. I tried putting the original one and that one together, but it was really hard to fadangle the wire around and keep it together, especially with my limited supplies. (tried electrical tape to hold the peices together)You're answer is back a page. Now that I know what they look like they are very very common. If you check out the torch lighters around they almost all use the same ignitor. Even the wire length seems standard.
I got a spark on occasion but the wire wasn't properly set in and secure. what kind of lighter did you use to replace it? Maybe I'll have to get another brand or something that includes a longer wire