XVape XLUX ROFFU

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I took my screen out I am just running glass on glass at this point with a WPA I always try to avoid any kind of silicone that I can so I removed the whole unit that hole is the screen since I'm using capsules but you warned it will have play and move back and forth

I’ve done some more playing. The new MP opens up a lot of potential small modding … if you like to tinker.
I only use the DIRECT PATH with accessory MP.

1) Have a Dynavap BB3 glass stem with the internal beads. It’s a tight fit in the silicone MP, but this short stem has the odd 10/14mm ground glass joint end. Since I don’t like ground glass joints in my mouth, I wouldn’t use it native. So that’s leaves it as a single use, in a water rig, and it wobbles a bit. So FAIL.

2) Simrell OG Titanium Vortex Stem (airport blocked with silicone band)
The diameter of the OG plain vortex stem is less than the Dynavap glass stem, and other glass stems I own, so it’s a GREAT fit. The Simrell MVS could just squeeze in, and a Revolve stem does NOT have a smooth tip end, so no.
***This is probably the coolest “direct” solution, assuming you have an expensive stem sitting around.

SCREEN: IN or OUT: The one in the TOP’s removable silicone gasket.

Basic logic and advice has been, when going through water, the need for a wire filter may be unnecessary.
With the new glass MP, “direct mode”, you would want a screen if you load the bowl, but if using a POD, you might not.
In the above configuration, I’ve left the TOP’s gasket screen in place, even though I’m now only using pods. Even with a BCG “medium” grind, some fines have been collected on the screen, though minimal.

TOP SILICONE GASKET:
I’m not too sensitive to silicone overall, but try to minimize it when possible.
Regardless of leaving the gasket screen out or not, I believe it’s still needed for the best possible airtight connection.

***If you put on good glasses, use a bright light, you can examine most of these configurations, but looking inside both ends and playing with stem depth etc. With many of these experiments, to see if gasket stays in place, push up on the gasket in too cap with your pinky, while slowly pushing down whatever stems you are trying, too deep, and gasket will push down, and eventually out.

One of the things bugging me with the basic “direct mode”, with just the glass MP stem, is the fat glass end stops inside the silicone adapter, but it’s just ever so slightly deep, that it pushes against the silicone gasket, and while it’s a great seal, it can push the gasket out, since that gasket is pressed in from the bottom of the top piece. When I removed the screen, I tried REVERSING the gasket, pushing in from the top. But on closeup examination, I could SEE, the load chamber top edge was visible, and not fully sealing. I believe some vapor could escape into the tops cavity, which is not needed or wanted in the direct mode.

So I’m going to continue to keep the gasket installed, in all my configurations, in its stock position for the best seal. So far enjoying the Simrell Vortex stem, but a big plus of the basic glass MP, is even with the short glass stem, it fits in most of my glass rigs, without removing the stem part. But honestly, I’m mostly using it directly, as the vortex does the cooling, without robbing as much flavor as a water rig.

Like Legos, parts to play with…..
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I’ve done some more playing. The new MP opens up a lot of potential small modding … if you like to tinker.
I only use the DIRECT PATH with accessory MP.

1) Have a Dynavap BB3 glass stem with the internal beads. It’s a tight fit in the silicone MP, but this short stem has the odd 10/14mm ground glass joint end. Since I don’t like ground glass joints in my mouth, I wouldn’t use it native. So that’s leaves it as a single use, in a water rig, and it wobbles a bit. So FAIL.

2) Simrell OG Titanium Vortex Stem (airport blocked with silicone band)
The diameter of the OG plain vortex stem is less than the Dynavap glass stem, and other glass stems I own, so it’s a GREAT fit. The Simrell MVS could just squeeze in, and a Revolve stem does NOT have a smooth tip end, so no.
***This is probably the coolest “direct” solution, assuming you have an expensive stem sitting around.

SCREEN: IN or OUT: The one in the TOP’s removable silicone gasket.

Basic logic and advice has been, when going through water, the need for a wire filter may be unnecessary.
With the new glass MP, “direct mode”, you would want a screen if you load the bowl, but if using a POD, you might not.
In the above configuration, I’ve left the TOP’s gasket screen in place, even though I’m now only using pods. Even with a BCG “medium” grind, some fines have been collected on the screen, though minimal.

TOP SILICONE GASKET:
I’m not too sensitive to silicone overall, but try to minimize it when possible.
Regardless of leaving the gasket screen out or not, I believe it’s still needed for the best possible airtight connection.

***If you put on good glasses, use a bright light, you can examine most of these configurations, but looking inside both ends and playing with stem depth etc. With many of these experiments, to see if gasket stays in place, push up on the gasket in too cap with your pinky, while slowly pushing down whatever stems you are trying, too deep, and gasket will push down, and eventually out.

One of the things bugging me with the basic “direct mode”, with just the glass MP stem, is the fat glass end stops inside the silicone adapter, but it’s just ever so slightly deep, that it pushes against the silicone gasket, and while it’s a great seal, it can push the gasket out, since that gasket is pressed in from the bottom of the top piece. When I removed the screen, I tried REVERSING the gasket, pushing in from the top. But on closeup examination, I could SEE, the load chamber top edge was visible, and not fully sealing. I believe some vapor could escape into the tops cavity, which is not needed or wanted in the direct mode.

So I’m going to continue to keep the gasket installed, in all my configurations, in its stock position for the best seal. So far enjoying the Simrell Vortex stem, but a big plus of the basic glass MP, is even with the short glass stem, it fits in most of my glass rigs, without removing the stem part. But honestly, I’m mostly using it directly, as the vortex does the cooling, without robbing as much flavor as a water rig.

Like Legos, parts to play with…..
I'm just waiting for this device to get popular enough so some artisan designers make some pieces for us! Think of the possibilities? The rogue wax works, Edd's TNT 🪵......

Yes I did notice some DynaVap stems are more compatible than others I haven't tried them yet though been mainly running straight glass fitting but I'm starting to find the vapor to be a little too hot so I think I'm just going to run the WPA normal setting but pushed all the way down or mess with that I'll have more contact with the silicone but hasn't seemed to bug me in the past I think I'll get some more cooling that way. I honestly haven't messed with the factory duck bill mouthpiece that much maybe one bowl or two but if I can remember right it's actually pretty darn cool compared to the WPA in any configuration.

I think I'm going to use this for out and about or through water at home since it runs hotter milk up some nice bongs.

My rotation mostly consist of that enano or DynaVap with inspire wand. They all hit equally hard and can basically extract the same AVB they're just different and have their own strong points. I'm having a feeling the x vape is going to do really nice stuff on my water pieces and that's where it's going to spend majority of its time cuz she will get hot on the mouthpiece for sure even at 380°, it started to get uncomfortable before the session was over being more aggressive on the session hits back to back, I just need to spend more time with her and get her dialled like all my other ones.

One on a little stoned rant, I can't wait to see what the future starts bringing if this thing catches popularity it's fun to be able to mod out your vape to your liking just like how you could do with DynaVap.
 

vapviking

Old & In the Way
All this below is using glass mp mounted to fit direct over glass chamber, as you folks have shown us.
I tried @LesPlenty's half bowl-sucked away from screen, which allows higher temp setting w/out the spotty charing. I think it works pretty good, but I like better
@PutOneInTheAir's idea of slightly raising the chamber screen. I moved it up just enough to see a small gap between it and the heater screen. A bowl at 190c was still tasty, no black or even dark brown avb. Hits on a bowl at 220c did produce very dark, but the limits were control-able with a little shorter draw, just stopping the hit earlier.

So I think keeping those screens away from contact with each other is a good thing. And getting the herb just a little away from the heater. I kinda wish this was built in, with the heater/screen set a little lower in the body?

This vape has a friendly feel in the hand, I think.
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
All this below is using glass mp mounted to fit direct over glass chamber, as you folks have shown us.
I tried @LesPlenty's half bowl-sucked away from screen, which allows higher temp setting w/out the spotty charing. I think it works pretty good, but I like better
@PutOneInTheAir's idea of slightly raising the chamber screen. I moved it up just enough to see a small gap between it and the heater screen. A bowl at 190c was still tasty, no black or even dark brown avb. Hits on a bowl at 220c did produce very dark, but the limits were control-able with a little shorter draw, just stopping the hit earlier.

So I think keeping those screens away from contact with each other is a good thing. And getting the herb just a little away from the heater. I kinda wish this was built in, with the heater/screen set a little lower in the body?

This vape has a friendly feel in the hand, I think.
I noticed the same thing but I only have one bowl with the screen raised a little bit above It was a pretty big difference same temperature compared to previous. Way lighter AVB a lot more even.

I got some turp pearls I think I'm going to throw as a gapper and see what that does between the two screens.
 
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maremaresing

Well-Known Member
Forgive the dust and stuff. Still need to give everything a clean.




Finally got around to doing the wpa stem mod. Drawing off the genius direct drive orientation, I made an insert that bypasses all of the silicone. Had some titanium and SS tube stock around for dynavap stems I've made, plus their orings.

This essentially just a really short dynavap body, with an inner tube a bit longer to extend down to just above the dosing capsule. Airflow should be the same as stock, because it's about the same as the inside of the cooling spiral.

The nice thing is that it now fits cone bowls such as the Grav Sherlock I just got. A universal adapter! And it's really easy to swap the stock mp and cooling unit back in when I want.
 

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
Found a good combo of using a 14 to 18mm GonG adapter with the glass mouthpiece inside directly above the oven,
Also been experimenting with lifting the bowl away from the heater a bit with good results,
1670141701005-jpg.42605
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
Forgive the dust and stuff. Still need to give everything a clean.




Finally got around to doing the wpa stem mod. Drawing off the genius direct drive orientation, I made an insert that bypasses all of the silicone. Had some titanium and SS tube stock around for dynavap stems I've made, plus their orings.

This essentially just a really short dynavap body, with an inner tube a bit longer to extend down to just above the dosing capsule. Airflow should be the same as stock, because it's about the same as the inside of the cooling spiral.

The nice thing is that it now fits cone bowls such as the Grav Sherlock I just got. A universal adapter! And it's really easy to swap the stock mp and cooling unit back in when I want.
Very creative nice and durable. Looks like a nice clean setup. I need to get some of that tubing so I can mess around with my Dyna
Found a good combo of using a 14 to 18mm GonG adapter with the glass mouthpiece inside directly above the oven,
Also been experimenting with lifting the bowl away from the heater a bit with good results,
1670141701005-jpg.42605
Can you explain more what you're doing with this attachment is it literally just a glass 18 to 14 mm reducer And it fits perfectly? I don't know man The more I'm messing with the WPA I think I actually prefer the silicone, I love the glass on glass especially how the V3 WPA is but a lot of times they bind too much to each other and it's hard to get off my glass piece I pulled the cap off of my V3 a few times spilling my flower. I'd imagine this wouldn't get as hot since his thicker glass which the factory mouthpiece will definitely get hot on the WPA native.

I still got the pearls in mine everything's been very consistent and even I have no reason to change plus if I'm using a dosing capsule I don't have to run the screen on top and this elevates it enough where everything fits snugly and there's no cap shaking back and forth from lack of silicone on the filter in the mouthpiece if that makes sense? This little ROFFU is insane how hard it freaking smacks if you wanted to I mean just look at your video! I've never had a portable vape like this where I'm constantly turning it down. I think I'm at the 380f native where all my other ones I'm at 428f. I'm at the point where I'm just trying to find a balanced temperature where I can burn off the flavor equally even with my AVB color.
 

Madri-Gal

Child Of The Revolution
This is just such an easy vape. I run it at lower temps than any other vape, and get great flavor and complete extraction every bowl. My MJ Arsenal Hydra Vape edition is perfect with the WPA, so a mini bubbler is sorted right away. Haven't had to do much except enjoy. Glad I got this one.
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
This is just such an easy vape. I run it at lower temps than any other vape, and get great flavor and complete extraction every bowl. My MJ Arsenal Hydra Vape edition is perfect with the WPA, so a mini bubbler is sorted right away. Haven't had to do much except enjoy. Glad I got this one.
Out of curiosity with temper you usually rolling at? I've been messing around with mine I am using capsules I'm really digging those so far and all stainless steel bowl for conduction. I'm just messing with the capsule just to see how much cleaner they keep things since I've never used them in the past? But anyways I find I've been hovering around 380 - 390f max. Anything above that I seem to lose the flavor real fast while I still have some vapor to produce but it tastes terrible. This 380 390 so far has been a lot more consistent.

Curious to hear you're findings
 

Madri-Gal

Child Of The Revolution
Out of curiosity with temper you usually rolling at? I've been messing around with mine I am using capsules I'm really digging those so far and all stainless steel bowl for conduction. I'm just messing with the capsule just to see how much cleaner they keep things since I've never used them in the past? But anyways I find I've been hovering around 380 - 390f max. Anything above that I seem to lose the flavor real fast while I still have some vapor to produce but it tastes terrible. This 380 390 so far has been a lot more consistent.

Curious to hear you're findings
I start at 326, go to 333, then max 346. It seems seems like it's hotter, or extracts better at lower temps than what I'm used to. Not saying it is, just that I'm happy with this vape at those temps.
Some of my vapes are weed hogs. You can work with it, but they run quite well with shovelfuls of cannabis. Roffu doesn't seem to take much, and my sessions usually time out, unless I remember to step up to 346. That cuts a minute.
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I start at 326, go to 333, then max 346. It seems seems like it's hotter, or extracts better at lower temps than what I'm used to. Not saying it is, just that I'm happy with this vape at those temps.
Some of my vapes are weed hogs. You can work with it, but they run quite well with shovelfuls of cannabis. Roffu doesn't seem to take much, and my sessions usually time out, unless I remember to step up to 346. That cuts a minute.
I was just about to say has anybody else realize how microdose friendly this unit is? Just like my log 🪵 vape. I just throw a shovel full in and use the capsule all stainless and it will blow some serious clouds fast. I just tried on demand usually because they're so gimmicky ( "my" V3pro is). But this one absolutely ripped, it's my imagination or not but it seems like turbo mode compared to session and that was using a capsule so it had to take energy to heat that also on max temp. Two huge hits and that shovel was gone very comparable to my log 🪵💨. I am going to creep down to the temps you use and hang out for a few bowls to check it out🤔


On a separate subject I got to try it with some concentrates and surprisingly it did very very well. I would use this over my DynaVap that's for sure with concentrates. I used a dosing capsule with some organic vaping cotton and let it soak for 1 minute on max temp and it was blowing flavorful 💨☁️☁️.


 
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Madri-Gal

Child Of The Revolution
I have yet to try Roffu with concentrates. Mostly because I've been too busy/lazy to press any. It's on the list of things to do, for sure.
 
Madri-Gal,
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PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I have yet to try Roffu with concentrates. Mostly because I've been too busy/lazy to press any. It's on the list of things to do, for sure.
I'm not really a concentrate person so my expectations are pretty low but I've taken some pretty good hits from my DynaVap, I also have a wand but never really like it for concentrates didn't put much practice into it either.. DynaVap was my number one with either a sandwich method or organic cotton but this did pretty good to my expectations and I think I'll be doing it this way now on pack a couple of dosing caples full of concentrates and you have a portable concentrate capable device on the go. I'm excited to hear how other people like concentrates in it since I'm far from experienced in that field.

Every time I use this device it seems to impress me more and more It really truly is legit so far!
 
PutOneInTheAir,
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LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
is it literally just a glass 18 to 14 mm reducer And it fits perfectly?
It sure is, like this,
Glass-Adapter-18mm-to-14mm.jpg_220x220xz.jpg_.webp

I'm excited to hear how other people like concentrates in it
I tried concentrates using the V3Pro concentrate cup and that was useless, I will give the cotton (hemp in my case) a try or 2 and report back. Like @Madri-Gal, I need to press some more rosin.
 
LesPlenty,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Found a good combo of using a 14 to 18mm GonG adapter with the glass mouthpiece inside directly above the oven,

I believe I mentioned earlier, I found the new MP with glass stem, fits inside most of my 14mm female water rig joints, obviously not any joints that are too shallow. I don’t like or own any 18mm glass anymore. The silicone MP accessory is cheap enough, I bought another one to use with the glass stem removed just for water use.

But currently, I’m not bothering going through water, using the direct stem system with various other cooling stems, is working fine for me, and only pods. Can’t wait for the @Delta3DStudios “pod loading tray” to be announced…..
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
It sure is, like this,
Glass-Adapter-18mm-to-14mm.jpg_220x220xz.jpg_.webp


I tried concentrates using the V3Pro concentrate cup and that was useless, I will give the cotton (hemp in my case) a try or 2 and report back. Like @Madri-Gal, I need to press some more rosin.
Very cool. If you could find one that's actually comfortable it probably would make a good part to add on as a mouthpiece native also? The added mass would definitely keep things cooler than the thin glass they use I would imagine?
I appreciate the pro tip I'm going to pick one up. I'm also messing with the idea of taking a dynavap intercooler and put in a 90° bend in it and putting that in the mouthpiece to help create a vortex cooling on direct path.

 
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PutOneInTheAir,
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LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
I don’t like or own any 18mm glass
All my glass was 18mm until I needed a Dab rig and I also got a couple of 14mm bubblers specifically for the Roffu and V3Pro.
Very cool. If you could find one that's actually comfortable
The 18mm ground joint does make a nice mouthpiece. I use a 14mm male to 18mm male with a bit of silicon on the 14mm end pushed into a lot of different bongs flared mouthpieces that can be a pain to get a good seal on when not clean-shaven.
Here a few options (I should get a 10mm to 18mm for the same job on a couple of bongs that have too tight a tube for the 14mm to fit),

Here is a link to the adapter above...about $3
 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
All my glass was 18mm until I needed a Dab rig and I also got a couple of 14mm bubblers specifically for the Roffu and V3Pro.

The 18mm ground joint does make a nice mouthpiece. I use a 14mm male to 18mm male with a bit of silicon on the 14mm end pushed into a lot of different bongs flared mouthpieces that can be a pain to get a good seal on when not clean-shaven.
Here a few options (I should get a 10mm to 18mm for the same job on a couple of bongs that have too tight a tube for the 14mm to fit),

Here is a link to the adapter above...about $3
Wonder how this would work? I bet it would cool things down quite a bit direct path native?

 
PutOneInTheAir,

LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
Wonder how this would work? I bet it would cool things down quite a bit direct path native?

H3d89362e9b7f402ba4aea4835bed9ce5Z.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp

I have a 18mm male to 18mm male vesion of this and thought it would fill nicely with all these spare facet cut rubies I got sent incorrectly(free) with a top hat filter in the top to hold them there but would need a 14 or 10 mm at the bottom to bypass any silicon.
Wow @RustyOldNail, that looks great!
11363-FBD-8-B4-A-463-D-B92-B-996864-ED3813.jpg

Links to bits needed...please!
 
LesPlenty,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
This is why I no longer post images on FC, they disappear….. I’m temporarily breaking my image boycott, I’ll try this again.

205972-B8-6485-41-D5-B98-D-F5-F05-D2-D081-E.jpg


This might be my COOLING “end game” stem for the Roffu, total “blackout”, including swapping the OG green orings for black ones. Another reason I always recommend buying additional accessories with a device, especially from other countries, as you never know if or when they might be around, so at least order the usually inexpensive ORING PACKS!

This is simply a REVOLVE GLASS STEM. I don’t know if you can buy JUST the “intercooler” part with MP.

The GLASS STEMS are available as a separate purchase, but in TWO O.D., 11mm & 12mm.
For pushing into the Roffu silicone WPA, you want the thinner, 11mm OD glass stem. (12mm recommended for compatibility with new Revolve V2 stem). There is a drilled out “airport” hole near the end on the GLASS STEM, but thankfully, it’s BLOCKED when inserted in the Roffu WPA!

*NOTE: The Simrell STINGER (with short/standard intercooler) will fit these glass stems too, though you have to manually set the intercooler sleeve depth. The Revolve intercooler is non-adjustable, so it’s easier.

Since I have preordered the new Revolve V2 kit, I’m have elected to get more usage out of the Revolve V1 parts, and my STINGER is part of my Simrell MVS stem so I want to keep them together, though I will probably buy a separate STINGER, as they work in many other stems.

Since I’m ONLY using the SS CAPSULES/PODS, I remove the wire screen from the silicone gasket in the Roffu “TOP PIECE”, but keep the gasket in, for air sealing. If NOT using PODS, you could/should keep that wire screen in the gasket, but the Revolve V1, has its own screens, that can be used at the very end of the intercooler insert, or use both. With the PODS, I’m not using ANY screens, I like SIMPLE.

This may only be a simple solution, if you have a V1 Revolve, or Simrell “Stinger”, not cheap stuff, but since I don’t have a “shop” to fabricate add ons, I use what I have in house.

 

PutOneInTheAir

E-nano, DynaVaps, v3pro, ROFFU
I bent my "rougewaxworks" intercooler for my DynaVap, stuck in in the WPA and it made a pretty good difference you could run it with a direct path or off to the side configuration with the WPA. Maybe I'm biased? But it seemed to keep things noticeably cooler. Mine doesn't move or rattle either on direct path setup.


 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The problem with a “vortex” intercooler, for it to work as designed, needs to be SEALED in the stem, not loose, otherwise the vapor path is not forced through the spirals.

FROM SIMRELL SITE:

“The Vortex Stem’s durable, medical-grade titanium intercooler produces some of the coolest, smoothest vapor you can get, with even more airflow. Its spiral shape lengthens the vapor path and creates more surface area to cool the vapor before reaching your lips and filtering out bits from your material so you don't end up with Scooby snacks.”
 
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