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I took my screen out I am just running glass on glass at this point with a WPA I always try to avoid any kind of silicone that I can so I removed the whole unit that hole is the screen since I'm using capsules but you warned it will have play and move back and forth
I’ve done some more playing. The new MP opens up a lot of potential small modding … if you like to tinker.
I only use the DIRECT PATH with accessory MP.
1) Have a Dynavap BB3 glass stem with the internal beads. It’s a tight fit in the silicone MP, but this short stem has the odd 10/14mm ground glass joint end. Since I don’t like ground glass joints in my mouth, I wouldn’t use it native. So that’s leaves it as a single use, in a water rig, and it wobbles a bit. So FAIL.
2) Simrell OG Titanium Vortex Stem (airport blocked with silicone band)
The diameter of the OG plain vortex stem is less than the Dynavap glass stem, and other glass stems I own, so it’s a GREAT fit. The Simrell MVS could just squeeze in, and a Revolve stem does NOT have a smooth tip end, so no.
***This is probably the coolest “direct” solution, assuming you have an expensive stem sitting around.
SCREEN: IN or OUT: The one in the TOP’s removable silicone gasket.
Basic logic and advice has been, when going through water, the need for a wire filter may be unnecessary.
With the new glass MP, “direct mode”, you would want a screen if you load the bowl, but if using a POD, you might not.
In the above configuration, I’ve left the TOP’s gasket screen in place, even though I’m now only using pods. Even with a BCG “medium” grind, some fines have been collected on the screen, though minimal.
TOP SILICONE GASKET:
I’m not too sensitive to silicone overall, but try to minimize it when possible.
Regardless of leaving the gasket screen out or not, I believe it’s still needed for the best possible airtight connection.
***If you put on good glasses, use a bright light, you can examine most of these configurations, but looking inside both ends and playing with stem depth etc. With many of these experiments, to see if gasket stays in place, push up on the gasket in too cap with your pinky, while slowly pushing down whatever stems you are trying, too deep, and gasket will push down, and eventually out.
One of the things bugging me with the basic “direct mode”, with just the glass MP stem, is the fat glass end stops inside the silicone adapter, but it’s just ever so slightly deep, that it pushes against the silicone gasket, and while it’s a great seal, it can push the gasket out, since that gasket is pressed in from the bottom of the top piece. When I removed the screen, I tried REVERSING the gasket, pushing in from the top. But on closeup examination, I could SEE, the load chamber top edge was visible, and not fully sealing. I believe some vapor could escape into the tops cavity, which is not needed or wanted in the direct mode.
So I’m going to continue to keep the gasket installed, in all my configurations, in its stock position for the best seal. So far enjoying the Simrell Vortex stem, but a big plus of the basic glass MP, is even with the short glass stem, it fits in most of my glass rigs, without removing the stem part. But honestly, I’m mostly using it directly, as the vortex does the cooling, without robbing as much flavor as a water rig.
Like Legos, parts to play with…..