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VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

webtroter

Well-Known Member
@Pipes. My PSM is a touch old and no longer charges. I opened it up and discovered that all soldering was still in-tact. I'm guessing its the battery. Where can I find a replacement battery?
see this post :
It needs to be 3S.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...light-compatible-eflb0995.html?___store=en_us

Max dimensions:
Pack Size: 55 x 30 x 25mm
Charge Plug: JST-XH

It's basically just a 3S 20C lipo battery. But dimensions are important. There's a bonus link in the part list within Pipes' FAQ.
 
webtroter,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
There are links to some in my FAQ.
I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc.
In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly. :science:
 
Pipes,

webtroter

Well-Known Member
There are links to some in my FAQ.
I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc.
In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly. :science:
Would it be beneficial if I were to extract the battery and balance charge it on my skyrc charger? It's been now about 8 months since I received my PSM.
 
webtroter,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Maybe... Be sure you get the JST polarity correct when re-installing.
What is the charger showing when on charge? Does the LED go red at all?
 
Pipes,

webtroter

Well-Known Member
Maybe... Be sure you get the JST polarity correct when re-installing.
What is the charger showing when on charge? Does the LED go red at all?
Ok. I'll let you all know if it last longer or shorter.

I have no problem with my PSM or charger.

@goodpunk6 is the one who @ed at you first.
 
webtroter,

Toivarita

999 Forever
@Pipes. My PSM is a touch old and no longer charges. I opened it up and discovered that all soldering was still in-tact. I'm guessing its the battery. Where can I find a replacement battery?
How long did you have the heater for, before it stopped holding a charg?
 
Toivarita,
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Sketch420

Well-Known Member
@Pipes. My PSM is a touch old and no longer charges. I opened it up and discovered that all soldering was still in-tact. I'm guessing its the battery. Where can I find a replacement battery?

They go in and out of stock frequently from what I've seen.


Seems a good price considering its like 9$ shipping on hobby king for US, though it may be different depending on location.
 
Sketch420,
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Marlox

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

please forgive me the laziness, but as i am no native english speaker it is kind of hard to read through 150 pages of a thread with mostly technical english... Tried to read backwards, but this doesn't seem to make it much easier for me.

So anyone willing to give me a short list of keywords or links i can search for to get a brief overview of building a simple induction-heater for my Dynavap? No fancy options, just a good working unit.
Or maybe there is a single build-thread about such an unit? With a little bit less discussion?^^

I hope someone may help me starting here :)
 

Toivarita

999 Forever
Hey guys,

please forgive me the laziness, but as i am no native english speaker it is kind of hard to read through 150 pages of a thread with mostly technical english... Tried to read backwards, but this doesn't seem to make it much easier for me.

So anyone willing to give me a short list of keywords or links i can search for to get a brief overview of building a simple induction-heater for my Dynavap? No fancy options, just a good working unit.
Or maybe there is a single build-thread about such an unit? With a little bit less discussion?^^

I hope someone may help me starting here :)
Contact @Pipes for a bare bones package.

this is not the forum for the question but I understand where you are coming from
 
Just got my PSM, what a game changer for using a vapcap. It works so well. I'd just like to figure out how to do lower temp sessions. Ideally I'd like to not go over 205c. Obviously you can't be that precise with a vapcap, but thinking there are probably some tricks like maybe pulling after the first click, and cooling fully between heat ups. So much info packed into this thread, off to scoure it for tips, thanks!
 

Toivarita

999 Forever
Just got my PSM, what a game changer for using a vapcap. It works so well. I'd just like to figure out how to do lower temp sessions. Ideally I'd like to not go over 205c. Obviously you can't be that precise with a vapcap, but thinking there are probably some tricks like maybe pulling after the first click, and cooling fully between heat ups. So much info packed into this thread, off to scoure it for tips, thanks!
Low temp cap
 

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Nice, yeah I reckon it takes a bit of R&D :) to find your own best method
My PSM is a bit more robust compared to the Caldron I use. I have heard of hacks using a longer adapter cord to extend the click time for the Caldron, but not much in terms of altering the PSM to tone it down a bit. I someone comes back with a hack, I might try it myself.

When I use the PSM, I tend to pull the vapcap the instant I sense the first click. With my caldron I tend to linger a bit once I hear the click.

I also second the low temp cap.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Yes, this is definitely an option. :nod: I too have experimented with just one cap and removal will drop the heating current by about 1.5 amps or 30%. This translates into a longer wait time. Mod approved. :tup:
This is very simple to do as you just need to cut one lead to one of the legs of the cap to accomplish it. Bend the leg lead out of the way but leave enough lead to be able to reverse the mod if needed. Reversing will need a soldering iron though. :science:
Simply bend the cut leg over and solder to the leg of the adjacent cap will bring back to normal.
20200809_165502_zps0vbxurrh.jpg
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
My PSM is a bit more robust compared to the Caldron I use. I have heard of hacks using a longer adapter cord to extend the click time for the Caldron, but not much in terms of altering the PSM to tone it down a bit. I someone comes back with a hack, I might try it myself.

When I use the PSM, I tend to pull the vapcap the instant I sense the first click. With my caldron I tend to linger a bit once I hear the click.

I also second the low temp cap.

Funny because have one of the earlier PSM's and a newer one.....they are pretty close in heat up time with my 2 Caldrons.

My Caldrons runs just a tad hotter ......maybe a 1-2 seconds quicker to click if that.


But for a hack to make your PSM not as hot....get some dense silicone matting or something that can take the heat ups. Stick that
in the bottom of the tube over the switch. If you have one of these shims in there...maybe 2mm thick...you should see a diff click time.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Yes, intrusion depth determines the click profile. More heat needs more intrusion and likewise, less heat means less intrusion. The click is essentially a 'delay'. The further the center of the magnetic field is away from the clicker, the longer it takes for the clicker to click.

There is a case where the heater is simply too hot. Too much 'scorching' for the user's preference. To actually reduce heating, taking the power out of the ZVS is like turning the temperature of the heating element down.
 
TommyDee,

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
But for a hack to make your PSM not as hot....get some dense silicone matting or something that can take the heat ups. Stick that
in the bottom of the tube over the switch. If you have one of these shims in there...maybe 2mm thick...you should see a diff click time.

Ok, I might give this a try. It's not like my PSM is so hot that it doesn't work well, it just clicks like 2 sec sooner than my caldron. I had thought that adding a silicone disc in the chamber might affect how even the roast is in the chamber, but if it really just slows down the click a bit then it is worth a try. My unit was made without the silicone pad and uses that half rhinestone piece.
 
BabyFacedFinster,
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