see this post :
It's basically just a 3S 20C lipo battery. But dimensions are important. There's a bonus link in the part list within Pipes' FAQ.
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
- Thread starter Pipes
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- dynavap induction heat vapcap
It's basically just a 3S 20C lipo battery. But dimensions are important. There's a bonus link in the part list within Pipes' FAQ.
There are links to some in my FAQ.
I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc.
In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly.
I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc.
In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly.
Would it be beneficial if I were to extract the battery and balance charge it on my skyrc charger? It's been now about 8 months since I received my PSM.There are links to some in my FAQ.
I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc.
In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly.
Ok. I'll let you all know if it last longer or shorter.
I have no problem with my PSM or charger.
@goodpunk6 is the one who @ed at you first.
Toivarita
999 Forever
How long did you have the heater for, before it stopped holding a charg?
goodpunk6
Well-Known Member
Like 2 years. Gonna troubleshoot with pipes later today.
Sketch420
Well-Known Member
Turnigy 800mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (E-flight Compatible EFLB0995)
Turnigy 800mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (E-flight Compatible EFLB0995)
hobbyking.com
They go in and out of stock frequently from what I've seen.
Amazon.com: Gens ace 3S 800mAh 11.1V 40C LiPo Battery Pack with JST Plug for 200 250 Heli 800mm Warbirds Eflite Blade CP CP Pro Helicopter Compare to E-flite EFLB8003SJ30: Home Audio & Theater
Amazon.com: Gens ace 3S 800mAh 11.1V 40C LiPo Battery Pack with JST Plug for 200 250 Heli 800mm Warbirds Eflite Blade CP CP Pro Helicopter Compare to E-flite EFLB8003SJ30: Home Audio & Theater
www.amazon.com
Seems a good price considering its like 9$ shipping on hobby king for US, though it may be different depending on location.
Hey guys,
please forgive me the laziness, but as i am no native english speaker it is kind of hard to read through 150 pages of a thread with mostly technical english... Tried to read backwards, but this doesn't seem to make it much easier for me.
So anyone willing to give me a short list of keywords or links i can search for to get a brief overview of building a simple induction-heater for my Dynavap? No fancy options, just a good working unit.
Or maybe there is a single build-thread about such an unit? With a little bit less discussion?^^
I hope someone may help me starting here
please forgive me the laziness, but as i am no native english speaker it is kind of hard to read through 150 pages of a thread with mostly technical english... Tried to read backwards, but this doesn't seem to make it much easier for me.
So anyone willing to give me a short list of keywords or links i can search for to get a brief overview of building a simple induction-heater for my Dynavap? No fancy options, just a good working unit.
Or maybe there is a single build-thread about such an unit? With a little bit less discussion?^^
I hope someone may help me starting here
Toivarita
999 Forever
Contact @Pipes for a bare bones package.Hey guys,
please forgive me the laziness, but as i am no native english speaker it is kind of hard to read through 150 pages of a thread with mostly technical english... Tried to read backwards, but this doesn't seem to make it much easier for me.
So anyone willing to give me a short list of keywords or links i can search for to get a brief overview of building a simple induction-heater for my Dynavap? No fancy options, just a good working unit.
Or maybe there is a single build-thread about such an unit? With a little bit less discussion?^^
I hope someone may help me starting here
this is not the forum for the question but I understand where you are coming from
TommyDee
Vaporitor
@Marlox - there are a few DIY IH threads here on FC. here's one - https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/diy-induction-heater-builds-and-references.49760/
Leadpipe58
Member
What a great Idea. Thank you
DaleCooper
New Member
I got my PSM a while ago and I’m so glad I did. I love not having to fiddle with lighters, particularly if I’m already sky high.
HillBillyHerbGrower
New Member
Just got my PSM, what a game changer for using a vapcap. It works so well. I'd just like to figure out how to do lower temp sessions. Ideally I'd like to not go over 205c. Obviously you can't be that precise with a vapcap, but thinking there are probably some tricks like maybe pulling after the first click, and cooling fully between heat ups. So much info packed into this thread, off to scoure it for tips, thanks!
Toivarita
999 Forever
Low temp cap
Moses Baca
Colorado State Reformatory #8755
I frequently stop heating before the click. With my setup I heat for about a 5-count and inhale. It's easy to add another second or two if it's not hot enough. Dip and sip, I try to hover just before the click.
HillBillyHerbGrower
New Member
Nice, yeah I reckon it takes a bit of R&D to find your own best method
to find your own best method
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
My PSM is a bit more robust compared to the Caldron I use. I have heard of hacks using a longer adapter cord to extend the click time for the Caldron, but not much in terms of altering the PSM to tone it down a bit. I someone comes back with a hack, I might try it myself.Nice, yeah I reckon it takes a bit of R&D
When I use the PSM, I tend to pull the vapcap the instant I sense the first click. With my caldron I tend to linger a bit once I hear the click.
I also second the low temp cap.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Yes, this is definitely an option. 
I too have experimented with just one cap and removal will drop the heating current by about 1.5 amps or 30%. This translates into a longer wait time. Mod approved. 
This is very simple to do as you just need to cut one lead to one of the legs of the cap to accomplish it. Bend the leg lead out of the way but leave enough lead to be able to reverse the mod if needed. Reversing will need a soldering iron though.
Simply bend the cut leg over and solder to the leg of the adjacent cap will bring back to normal.
I too have experimented with just one cap and removal will drop the heating current by about 1.5 amps or 30%. This translates into a longer wait time. Mod approved. This is very simple to do as you just need to cut one lead to one of the legs of the cap to accomplish it. Bend the leg lead out of the way but leave enough lead to be able to reverse the mod if needed. Reversing will need a soldering iron though.
Simply bend the cut leg over and solder to the leg of the adjacent cap will bring back to normal.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Funny because have one of the earlier PSM's and a newer one.....they are pretty close in heat up time with my 2 Caldrons.
My Caldrons runs just a tad hotter ......maybe a 1-2 seconds quicker to click if that.
But for a hack to make your PSM not as hot....get some dense silicone matting or something that can take the heat ups. Stick that
in the bottom of the tube over the switch. If you have one of these shims in there...maybe 2mm thick...you should see a diff click time.
warren0728
Well-Known Member
funny ... my PSM (with a full charge) runs hotter than my caldron ... it mellows a little as the battery wears down ... i love them both!
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Yes, intrusion depth determines the click profile. More heat needs more intrusion and likewise, less heat means less intrusion. The click is essentially a 'delay'. The further the center of the magnetic field is away from the clicker, the longer it takes for the clicker to click.
There is a case where the heater is simply too hot. Too much 'scorching' for the user's preference. To actually reduce heating, taking the power out of the ZVS is like turning the temperature of the heating element down.
There is a case where the heater is simply too hot. Too much 'scorching' for the user's preference. To actually reduce heating, taking the power out of the ZVS is like turning the temperature of the heating element down.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Ok, I might give this a try. It's not like my PSM is so hot that it doesn't work well, it just clicks like 2 sec sooner than my caldron. I had thought that adding a silicone disc in the chamber might affect how even the roast is in the chamber, but if it really just slows down the click a bit then it is worth a try. My unit was made without the silicone pad and uses that half rhinestone piece.