little maggie
Well-Known Member
Does it really matter if there are clouds?
TUBO evic/dual
- Thread starter funkyjunky
- Start date
Krahl
Well-Known Member
Nope nothing wrong . I Just noting my experience compared to what I was accustomed to. I did not know what to expect. It certainly works. Not been so medicated in ages
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Both.
I find I get more clouds with more material obviously. Also a tighter pack = denser clouds.
Clouds don't mean anything really... but visual confirmation is nice and taking a big hit just sometimes feels satisfying.
I get whispy clouds when I cruise at low temps, and when I temp step. 385f is the sweetspot on mine for killing 1-1.5g in one 120s cruise if I can manage to stop myself from coughing and having to start over...
I grind using a SW2. I don't really have a technique. I mean it's a tubo man. Just cruise. If you start near 400f with the joint packed with 1-1.5g ground, you will get big clouds. Rip at your own discretion.
Maybe not proportional to the amount of cloudage you would get from the same amount in my underdog (as someone else mentioned) but meh.
btw 120s cruise is my normal time. I don't know why I was saying 90 the other day (not that it matters)
off to cruise
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leveltree
never wanted to beat that one ;)
Haha, right.
Thanks for clarifying you all, it's not that I am used to clouds, just don't see anything.
Not that it wouldn't work
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Sorry I didn't mean that to be snarky! Just being silly and trying to be pseudo-inspirational. tuborational. idk man.
these little 1-3 day t-breaks have been getting me. it's nice actually!
I still get effects when I cruise at 340f with wispy minimal clouds for example. They're there, but lighting definitely helps to see it... and it's nothing like smoking weed (or cigs) or e-cig vapor. Idk I'm thinking about it too much now.
Turn that baby up and report back if you can @leveltree
these little 1-3 day t-breaks have been getting me. it's nice actually!
I still get effects when I cruise at 340f with wispy minimal clouds for example. They're there, but lighting definitely helps to see it... and it's nothing like smoking weed (or cigs) or e-cig vapor. Idk I'm thinking about it too much now.
Turn that baby up and report back if you can @leveltree
little maggie
Well-Known Member
I just updated and set mine to 2.
Questions:
Will this automatically come on in cruise mode
Sorry I tend to be pretty linear and don't like to fool around with equipment. I may miss some fun but I just want to know basic instructions.
Questions:
How do you set the desired temp in levels 1 and 2
Will this automatically come on in cruise mode
Sorry I tend to be pretty linear and don't like to fool around with equipment. I may miss some fun but I just want to know basic instructions.
leveltree
never wanted to beat that one ;)
@muunch no worries mate, I think I got it the way you meant it 
Just tried the new update and I'm impressed by the draw-detection! There is a clear spike instantly when you start to draw.
I used a finer grind and slower draw than normal and actually got something visible now. Just to test it ^^
Normally I just put in some "twigs" and don't even divide them.
For some reason the images are not shown inline so here's the pic from NFE-Tool when I took a draw from ECOCRUISE with eco setting 2.
http://imgur.com/ZezI8K6
Just tried the new update and I'm impressed by the draw-detection! There is a clear spike instantly when you start to draw.
I used a finer grind and slower draw than normal and actually got something visible now. Just to test it ^^
Normally I just put in some "twigs" and don't even divide them.
For some reason the images are not shown inline so here's the pic from NFE-Tool when I took a draw from ECOCRUISE with eco setting 2.
http://imgur.com/ZezI8K6
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
@little maggie
You set the temp you want to cruise at as normal.
The temp it's lowered to will only be at that temp when you aren't drawing... The goal is to save battery life, while keeping the device/herb/stem sufficiently heatsoaked. Once you resume drawing, if the tubo is still in cruise mode, it will automatically detect that you're drawing and adjust the temperature back to the desired one you set on the 'main screen' of the tubo.
If you have "ecolvl" set to 1 or 2 - it will automatically do this lowering of the temp when you are not drawing.
ecolvl set to 1 makes it drop only a slight bit. you cannot control how much it drops but @funkyjunky can show us a graph that will tell you how much it drops, depending on what the temp is set at.
ecolvl 2 just makes it drop even more.
I really just reiterated what fj said but I hope I maybe helped
You set the temp you want to cruise at as normal.
The temp it's lowered to will only be at that temp when you aren't drawing... The goal is to save battery life, while keeping the device/herb/stem sufficiently heatsoaked. Once you resume drawing, if the tubo is still in cruise mode, it will automatically detect that you're drawing and adjust the temperature back to the desired one you set on the 'main screen' of the tubo.
If you have "ecolvl" set to 1 or 2 - it will automatically do this lowering of the temp when you are not drawing.
ecolvl set to 1 makes it drop only a slight bit. you cannot control how much it drops but @funkyjunky can show us a graph that will tell you how much it drops, depending on what the temp is set at.
ecolvl 2 just makes it drop even more.
I really just reiterated what fj said but I hope I maybe helped
Prolusio
Well-Known Member
Yes when Eco is activated it will just automatically come on when you activate cruise. You'll notice the temp drops a lot when you're not drawing and Eco activates; saves power by dropping the idle temp between draws. Funky did an awesome job on the draw detection IMO, as soon as you start hitting the Tubo will sense it and heat back up to your set temp.
To set the temp it's just like you normally do, the main display is the temp control. There aren't separate temp settings for each Eco level. Just different Eco/power saving levels for your selected temp.
Setting Eco to 0 will turn it off and cruise will behave like usual. The other Eco levels work like Funky described.
Edit: Looks like @muunch beat me to it!
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
@Prolusio
EDIT
(i ninja-edited that post to include the more detailed (but still shitty) instructions, but looks like I was too quick for the forum to detect it as an edit... so i guess it's an actual ninja edit...???)
Also, chiming in to say the draw sensor is really really good on this. It's pretty sensitive.
It still does give the "low battery" for me, but it's the one that just flashes it where the battery stats normally would be. Not the one that interrupts the cruise.
Maybe my batteries suck? Idk, got them fairly recently from imr but
EDIT(i ninja-edited that post to include the more detailed (but still shitty) instructions, but looks like I was too quick for the forum to detect it as an edit... so i guess it's an actual ninja edit...???)
Also, chiming in to say the draw sensor is really really good on this. It's pretty sensitive.
- I've done 3 120s, 385f cruises on a fresh LG H2, eco level 1 and sitting at 68%.
It still does give the "low battery" for me, but it's the one that just flashes it where the battery stats normally would be. Not the one that interrupts the cruise.
Maybe my batteries suck? Idk, got them fairly recently from imr but
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duff
Well worn
Hey @Krahl and @leveltree.
I'm not sure what advice to give but I get massive clouds at 360-370.
Have you tried just loading the metal rimmed screen at the end? This may be a good method until you get the feel for your Tubos.
If you pack the entire joint as others have mentioned, pack it pretty full. I don't tamp ever.
For water hits, it is very challenging to milk a bong due to the wide open airflow. But even if you don't milk it you should get ginormous hits.
I'm not sure what advice to give but I get massive clouds at 360-370.
Have you tried just loading the metal rimmed screen at the end? This may be a good method until you get the feel for your Tubos.
If you pack the entire joint as others have mentioned, pack it pretty full. I don't tamp ever.
For water hits, it is very challenging to milk a bong due to the wide open airflow. But even if you don't milk it you should get ginormous hits.
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
To be honest I don't really like the stock short stems that come with the Tubo, so thought I'd grab some alternatives...
First off I found some 14mm ground glass joint "blanks" from a company that supplies glass to blowers in the UK. The stem length is 12 cm, and they're are very well made and they only cost £1.50 each (so about $2 each)
actually they'd be perfect for the MVT which use 14mm native (iirc):
Really need some decent basket screens... had to use a couple of those I have for my nano.
One went in the joint and made a small micro dose sized bowl, the other I stuck as far down the stem as it would go (and stay solid) so I can fill the whole joint with flowers:
Better view of the smaller bowl:
As I can't cap the 14mm joint, and need to use a 14-18mm adapter anyway, I just cap the bottom of that. There is a very small gap between the bottom of the 14mm joint and the basket screen capping the adapter, so a few bits of flower do fall down a little, but its easily sucked back in when it's stir time:
And the whole thing ends up like this... do need to bump up the heat a little due to all the extra glass, and the fact the load is a little further away from the heater than directly in an 18mm joint, but they work great
The same company make an 18mm blanks... but I think the tube size might be a little large for a mouthpiece on those. I'll probably order a couple and find out. I'll also cut the legth of the stems down for my use as I prefer stems a little shorter than that normally...
Next up, I bit the bullet and paid the shipping from Planet Vape/Canada and ordered 2 short RBT Milaana/Zion stems. Now I really thought these would actually come with screens, but it seems not
they're completely smooth bore too and have no lip to rest a standard screen in at all 
no problem, I've ordered some basket screens I think will work and can wait to try these...
Native:
And with a nifty silicone sleeve that epicvape make for the nano stems/gongs. Protect the stem and stop them form rolling when laid flat (oh and they glow in the dark too
)
Wow
those pictures are big...
First off I found some 14mm ground glass joint "blanks" from a company that supplies glass to blowers in the UK. The stem length is 12 cm, and they're are very well made and they only cost £1.50 each (so about $2 each)
actually they'd be perfect for the MVT which use 14mm native (iirc):
Really need some decent basket screens... had to use a couple of those I have for my nano.
One went in the joint and made a small micro dose sized bowl, the other I stuck as far down the stem as it would go (and stay solid) so I can fill the whole joint with flowers:
Better view of the smaller bowl:
As I can't cap the 14mm joint, and need to use a 14-18mm adapter anyway, I just cap the bottom of that. There is a very small gap between the bottom of the 14mm joint and the basket screen capping the adapter, so a few bits of flower do fall down a little, but its easily sucked back in when it's stir time:
And the whole thing ends up like this... do need to bump up the heat a little due to all the extra glass, and the fact the load is a little further away from the heater than directly in an 18mm joint, but they work great
The same company make an 18mm blanks... but I think the tube size might be a little large for a mouthpiece on those. I'll probably order a couple and find out. I'll also cut the legth of the stems down for my use as I prefer stems a little shorter than that normally...
Next up, I bit the bullet and paid the shipping from Planet Vape/Canada and ordered 2 short RBT Milaana/Zion stems. Now I really thought these would actually come with screens, but it seems not
they're completely smooth bore too and have no lip to rest a standard screen in at all no problem, I've ordered some basket screens I think will work and can wait to try these...Native:
And with a nifty silicone sleeve that epicvape make for the nano stems/gongs. Protect the stem and stop them form rolling when laid flat (oh and they glow in the dark too
)
Wow
those pictures are big...
duff
Well worn
Very nice @Gray Area.
I'm thinking of switching all my stems to 14.
I'm thinking of switching all my stems to 14.
muunch
hotboxing the cockpit
Blasphemy.
I don't like the short stem too much either but can and will use it. Just not my first choice.
I love the bent stem way too much and any other way of using tubo just feels wrong! Ddave cooler is good and short stem +whip, other than that it's only long bent stem and WPA for me here.
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
Sure...
these are the 14mm banks:
http://www.elementsglass.co.uk/male-14mm-ground-glass-joint-cone/
... and the main page for the joints. They do 10, 14 and 18mm and polished joints too (although I prefer ground myself):
http://www.elementsglass.co.uk/glass-fittings/
Think it only fair to mention that someone on here said that stuff they got from the same place wasn't very good quality and that there were some marks on the glass... but the three blanks I got were spot on.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I just wanted to share that I have had some glass from element glass,which i must say have nice prices,but i really wanna recommend LENZ glass joints if you can get them over these.., Glass on them was of far superior quality IMO,i had spots all around my element glass(which is not the case with those Gray Area got,maybe just a bad batch),andi have built a few Gn0mes out of both..and implemented in halogen vape and those from element crack a lot when torched/led in contact with halogen bulb,compared to none cracks on those from lenz glass. Not that it wasnt expected cause it is just German vs Chinese quality ) !
Btw cheapest glass joints can be found from china on prices as low as 25 cents..,i have seen a few sources on alibaba and similar sites.
And if you are in the US or around ,i've head a lot of good things about those guys,they do custom work too and have all brands.. I suggest you dont go cheap for the chinese shit... ,no need of saving pennies and sacrificing quality) http://www.mountainglass.com/Products/GLASS-GROUND-JOINTS/
) !Btw cheapest glass joints can be found from china on prices as low as 25 cents..,i have seen a few sources on alibaba and similar sites.
And if you are in the US or around ,i've head a lot of good things about those guys,they do custom work too and have all brands.. I suggest you dont go cheap for the chinese shit... ,no need of saving pennies and sacrificing quality
) http://www.mountainglass.com/Products/GLASS-GROUND-JOINTS/
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little maggie
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to say the new software works great.
Also I know people buy Ddave's cooler. I find his stems are the most effective for the tubo since I use water and the whip instead of the cooler. I've already said that and how easy it is to put the herb between the screen and then adding the rimmed cap. They come in 14mm also. Here's a picture:
Also I know people buy Ddave's cooler. I find his stems are the most effective for the tubo since I use water and the whip instead of the cooler. I've already said that and how easy it is to put the herb between the screen and then adding the rimmed cap. They come in 14mm also. Here's a picture:
duff
Well worn
@little maggie posting pictures!
someone requested a graph?
go from the temperature you have set to the top lines (blue&darkred) then straight down to the eco level you have set and you are at the eco temperature at that level.
as you can see no change for eco level 0, means eco switch off. temperatures in levels 1 and 2 are lowered according to set temperature and the eco temperature for eco level 3 is always 135degC
this is now programmed into the firmware, all you can do is choose the eco level.
basically: eco 0 doesnt save energy, eco 1 saves some, eco 2 saves more and eco 3 saves the most...in theory
energy saving comes with the cost of having to draw longer because the heater needs to react and get back on temp, the colder it is idling, the longer this is.
your graphs actually showed me that i can make the heater react a bit faster with some minor tweaks
go from the temperature you have set to the top lines (blue&darkred) then straight down to the eco level you have set and you are at the eco temperature at that level.
as you can see no change for eco level 0, means eco switch off. temperatures in levels 1 and 2 are lowered according to set temperature and the eco temperature for eco level 3 is always 135degC
this is now programmed into the firmware, all you can do is choose the eco level.
basically: eco 0 doesnt save energy, eco 1 saves some, eco 2 saves more and eco 3 saves the most...in theory
energy saving comes with the cost of having to draw longer because the heater needs to react and get back on temp, the colder it is idling, the longer this is.
thank you! yes i made these to fit the pattern of the ac adapter, here is a poplar version:
dont worry, from what i see you are doing perfectly fine on the tech side.
nice nfe action!
your graphs actually showed me that i can make the heater react a bit faster with some minor tweaks
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
Well my 1st firmware update went without incident... couldn't be simpler really. Just used the simple updater this time, but I'll prob take a look at that fancy graph creating one at some point... 
Hoping for some battery life improvements as I tend to run my tubo at high temps
so I'm testing eco2 at the moment. Just done a cruise set at 205C for a lightly crammed (excuse the oxymoron 
) joint of unground flower.
Between draws temps were dropping to around 165C (pretty much in line with the graph), but were right back to temp before the end of the next hit... so really half a hit into the next draw and you're back to temp no prob. Should be a great update...
I haven't changed the cruise length on mine yet and don't really remember the default length (240s
), but I don't think I will to be honest. It's easy enough to exit mid-cruise and think I prefer to have a longer than needed setting and do this (when I actually want to) rather than have it cool down mid session/draw if I've set it shorter than needed
Gonna break that load up a bit now and bump it to 210C
Hoping for some battery life improvements as I tend to run my tubo at high temps
so I'm testing eco2 at the moment. Just done a cruise set at 205C for a lightly crammed (excuse the oxymoron ) joint of unground flower.Between draws temps were dropping to around 165C (pretty much in line with the graph), but were right back to temp before the end of the next hit... so really half a hit into the next draw and you're back to temp no prob. Should be a great update...
I haven't changed the cruise length on mine yet and don't really remember the default length (240s
), but I don't think I will to be honest. It's easy enough to exit mid-cruise and think I prefer to have a longer than needed setting and do this (when I actually want to) rather than have it cool down mid session/draw if I've set it shorter than needed Gonna break that load up a bit now and bump it to 210C
Krahl
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I like that way more than packing in the stem or in the water adapter so far
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Using the basket screens is the way I use my Tubo most. Just remember when you are that close to the heat source you need to be careful.
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
By day, i am a humble hvac installer, by night, sometimes i FC. But vaping, and now the tubo, is never far from my mind. I was preparing some 'tubos' at work today and put together this simple arrangement for your symbolic tubo pleasure. 
For anyone owning one or familiar, my three metal ducts representing the three glass tubos. my torn plastic strap stands in for the ss coil wire that heats the glass.
Haha can you tell im ready to finish work and go home?
funkyjunky, the new firmware update is working fine for me! Thanks for keeping at work improving the tubo with all the software updates! maybe ill find time for a longer post about packing, abv, and the new update when i get home
Edit: since fj and abysmal vapor said its ok, i removed the main screen covering the glass/steel tubes and dumped out A TON of old toasted, dusty, flowery and kiefy bits! Alot of stuff accumulated around the bulge on the glass joint and at the bottom. It was much easier to remove and replace the screen than i thought! will have to do this periodically now
For anyone owning one or familiar, my three metal ducts representing the three glass tubos. my torn plastic strap stands in for the ss coil wire that heats the glass.
Haha can you tell im ready to finish work and go home?
funkyjunky, the new firmware update is working fine for me! Thanks for keeping at work improving the tubo with all the software updates! maybe ill find time for a longer post about packing, abv, and the new update when i get home
Edit: since fj and abysmal vapor said its ok, i removed the main screen covering the glass/steel tubes and dumped out A TON of old toasted, dusty, flowery and kiefy bits! Alot of stuff accumulated around the bulge on the glass joint and at the bottom. It was much easier to remove and replace the screen than i thought! will have to do this periodically now
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