TinyMight / TM 2

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
Can someone attest to the fact that the TM releases a less strong vapor odor wise than a Vapcap, for instance?
If you are talking about exhaled vapor then I have no comment.

If you are talking about odor emitted by the device then the TM produces less odor than the VapCap.
...
There is essentially no smell emitted by the TM during use.
I guess it's a matter of perspective. While I appreciate your point about the devices themselves, it would seem to me that the question is really along the lines of, "when vaping in your living room, which vape is likely to result in more ambient odor?" Or, one may want to know which vape is likely to leave more telltail signs that one has been consuming cannabis. I think if those are the questions one is trying to answer, the answer is likely the TM. I mean, we all have to exhale eventually...
 

UgoMaille

Member
been using my TM for the past 4 months, in a small studio apartment, always exhaling out a window, and I can confirm there is "no noticable smell" associated with cannabis from usage of TM.

I iso soak stem & stainless TM parts & store herb in JyARz, don't even use grinder because that smell was very obvious.
 
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Necroticism

Well-Known Member
If you are talking about exhaled vapor then I have no comment.

Exhaled, yes.

been using my TM for the past 4 months, in a small studio apartment, always exhaling out a window, and I can confirm there is "no noticable smell" associated with cannabis from usage. of TM. I iso soak stem & stainless TM parts & store herb in JyARz, don't even use grinder because that smell was very obvious.

Exactly, no smell. It's a plus for me. Love the herb smell but the stealth aspect is pretty convenient.
 

flaky

Active Member
Whew! I just reassembled mine after the upper glass broke. It had a bunch of tiny fragments at the bottom that rattled around, so I thought "Oh I might as well get rid of them."

Well after screwing with the screw and removing the board, I accidentally removed the heater coil from the lower glass tube. What a mistake! It took all of my effort to reassemble the heater, but I pulled it off. Here's how I did it.

The lower glass tube assembly has 5 parts, the outer glass tube, the metal foil heater coil, a metal foil coil, and two plastic spacer sticks.

Initially I tried to just stuff the heater coil back into the tube, but alas it had sprung open. Yikes. I twisted it tighter to fit in, and used toothpicks to flex the metal from the inside in order to get it to fit. Well, eventually I got it in. I noticed the heater coil's threaded end was not centered near the center of the tube. Also when I reassembled the TM, the upper glass tube was proud of the wooden case... there was no way it was assembled correctly. An obvious note for anyone who screws up like this: the conductor on top of the wooden case has a bend in it and that bend should line up with the top of the wood. Mine was about 3mm above the wood.

So I thought "Hey maybe that metal ring inside the glass tube would help me insert it." OK that was a coil of metal too and it also sprung wide. Shit. It is much heavier gauge metal than the heater though. I was able to coil it and reinsert it.

I then examined the heater and saw the spacer sticks and realized they poke through some holes in the foil. So I carefully aligned the sticks and poked them through the foil holes as I coiled it back up. This took a while. I reinserted it and it got stuck on the lip of the inner coil. The toothpicks helped me get it fully set within the coil and the tube was reassembled. Yea!

Don't do what I did. Leave that damn lower heater alone.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Just worth a mention cause it gets lots in the pages. If your TM worked OK at one point ,but then you feel like it is not delivering enough heat:
Dont fuck up with calibration,it is either the contact of the SS strip with the top plate or the o-ring does not makes a good seal to the stem. Do not go the rabbit hole ,unless you have confirmed that the reason mentioned above are not present.
Imagine the atomizer on your mod is not making a good contact and resistance is fucked up and in order to aid that that you just boost more voltage/power instead of fixing the connection.
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the responses everyone! I think I've got my order figured out, only accessory I'm still on the fence about is the additional cooling unit. Not sure if I'll really use it.
I just ordered another because I do find it useful. I filled the original with ball bearings. The additional one I will use while cleaning this one....or might even use double cooling in longer stem which I also ordered.
 

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
I forgot to ask in my last post. For others who have filled up their cooling unit with ball bearings, how have you cleaned it after use?

I had experimented with some stainless steel mesh. It got pretty gunked up so I got rid of it.

Specifically, are you just removing the O rings and soaking in iso? Or, do you have to open it all up, dump the bearings and soak all of it?

For some reason, I suspect to get it clean I might have to dump the bearings....but I hope not which is why I ask :-) ....extra work!

I also had the idea, don't know if anyone did it, of using two cooling units in the 80 mm tube. I have one coming....might be a little tight to do this....and perhaps unnecessary....but l have the bad habit of liking to tinker.
 
andrew`124c41+,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Somewhere in this thread there was some research done on battery consumption while idle – any loss of charge is negligible.
There are tiny diodes that consume as little as 0.05 watts, and look about the same size as the one on the TM. Probably batteries drop charge faster on their own when not in use,compared to the drain of that diode.
 

Momor

Well-Known Member
For some reason, I suspect to get it clean I might have to dump the bearings....but I hope not which is why I ask :-) ....extra work!
I would do that in order to make sure everything is 100% clean. A good ISO soak would take care of the most part of the reclaim/residue but not all of it :2c:
 
Momor,
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gangababa

Well-Known Member
...
The lower glass tube assembly has 5 parts, the outer glass tube, the metal foil heater coil, a metal foil coil, and two plastic spacer sticks.
...
So I thought "Hey maybe that metal ring inside the glass tube would help me insert it." OK that was a coil of metal too and it also sprung wide. Shit. It is much heavier gauge metal than the heater though. I was able to coil it and reinsert it.
... So I carefully aligned ... and the tube was reassembled. Yea!

Don't do what I did. Leave that damn lower heater alone.
You seem to have shown that it can be done.
Thank you for important and needed information. While I won't suggest anyone try to follow in your footsteps, it would be great if someone disassembled and rebuilt a TM heater, with photo documentation. Perhaps a dead unit will eventually be dissected.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
You seem to have shown that it can be done.
Thank you for important and needed information. While I won't suggest anyone try to follow in your footsteps, it would be great if someone disassembled and rebuilt a TM heater, with photo documentation. Perhaps a dead unit will eventually be dissected.
Oh there are already gut out photos in the thread, is there a Best of thread for the TM ? I suggested having one around page 100 but i was laughed at back then :D... 2500 posts were too little for such thread.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I forgot to ask in my last post. For others who have filled up their cooling unit with ball bearings, how have you cleaned it after use?

I had experimented with some stainless steel mesh. It got pretty gunked up so I got rid of it.

Specifically, are you just removing the O rings and soaking in iso? Or, do you have to open it all up, dump the bearings and soak all of it?

For some reason, I suspect to get it clean I might have to dump the bearings....but I hope not which is why I ask :-) ....extra work!

I also had the idea, don't know if anyone did it, of using two cooling units in the 80 mm tube. I have one coming....might be a little tight to do this....and perhaps unnecessary....but l have the bad habit of liking to tinker.

Look at POST #: 12,548
 
RustyOldNail,

andrew`124c41+

Well-Known Member
Somewhere in this thread there was some research done on battery consumption while idle – any loss of charge is negligible.
Lithium ion battery self discharge is negligible compared with NiMH cells.

One of these days I will get someone to help me hold test leads so I can measure the actual drain when the unit is off and idle. I suspect there is no drain at all when off.
 

Freddie

Active Member
I noticed the price increase earlier this week. Seems inevitable in these times. On a positive note, has anyone else tried using the CH 14mm male long post to adapt the TM to the VonG? I have had good results using one high-temp silicone ring around the indented part of the post to secure the 14mm post inside the SS cylinder down flush against the heater screen, with the male end sticking up out of the heating chamber. Just place an uncapped tip (and stem of choice, but works best with a crowned stem like the VonG) into the CH post like you would normally place a stem into the chamber and rip.

While a cool mod to open the TM to the Dynaverse, do take care unscrewing the crown on the heater chamber and inserting the post. Also, make sure your heater screen has the smaller diameter screen ring side facing up and it all works out rather securely (otherwise the post could push down through the screen into the heater on accident).

I can't say the hits are bigger, but it makes the TM possibly an even more micro-doser, particularly with the CCD set at half-bowl. Another plus seems to be the possible slight added conduction imported by the all Ti VonG(i), in my case. Last, in the case of the Von(G)i, the adjustable airport can be useful for cooling the draw, or locking up for a fuller draw, as well.
 
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Freddie

Active Member
@Bad Dog, I apologize. I am learning how to embed pictures here on the fly, no sandbox - sorry for the delay.
Imgur link below:
TM CH/Dyna Mod
TM CH Dyna Mod #2

I believe while the OD of the 18 and 14mm posts are the same, the 18mm post will not be small enough to seal with the Dynavap, though I have not tried (I no longer have a 18mm post). Please ask if you have any questions.
 
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Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
I also had the idea, don't know if anyone did it, of using two cooling units in the 80 mm tube. I have one coming....might be a little tight to do this....and perhaps unnecessary....but l have the bad habit of liking to tinker.
I’m fairly certain this has been posted - double CU in stock long stem. One CU without nuts & washers in a stock short stem is fine for me. And speaking of which, it’s Friday - TGIFF! - now where is my beloved TM now that the workday is almost done and the weekend is here?! ;):peace:
 

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
Last night I returned to using the Tinymight with my OGB hook. For the last while I've mostly been using some custom stems. And I have been using a log a lot more lately.

Anyway, in the a state of expanded consciousness, I had the thought, "why does anyone have any other vapes besides the tinymight?"

Thankfully the moment passed but I appreciated the chance to experience that insight.
 
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