I’ve recently stopped using the CU for the Tinymight. I’m mostly using it with a WPA and a few different stems. I prefer an all glass setup and it means one less thing to clean.Been using the TM for a while and nothing come close. QQ I‘m using 2 CU in one stem most of the time, and wondering if any one has good mods for the cooling unit. Are there different CU now or is the original still the best for cool and compact.
Do not tighten screw on circuit board is what tinymight told me, they said as long as contacts on board can touch bottom lid don’t worry about it. Also re: two orings stuck together let us know it works better with the two or just one, thx!Dr. Vaporific, I presume? So I’ve got my TM open - I’ve already lost the thin rubber gasket atop the glass cylinder and can’t find it at all! - even removed the haptic thingy from the rubber housing with fine point tweezers (Nurse Ratchett, scalpel please), slightly bent up the contacts and reinserted the haptic thingy in the rubber housing with tweezers.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
good luck DrDr. Vaporific, I presume? So I’ve got my TM open - I’ve already lost the thin rubber gasket atop the glass cylinder and can’t find it at all! - even removed the haptic thingy from the rubber housing with fine point tweezers (Nurse Ratchett, scalpel please), slightly bent up the contacts and reinserted the haptic thingy in the rubber housing with tweezers.
So far so good except I still can’t fucking find the oring! Oh and the board is loose and can slide a bit in either direction. Any suggestions for this? Do I dare tighten the screw holding the heater to the board which may help? Sanding will commence momentarily!
Lastly, for the first time in 3 times now I’ve taken my TM apart, the heater ring BELOW the screen heater ring came out when I turned it upside down. I’ve seen it in a rare photo and mentioned sparingly but it’s not an albatross. Very interesting!
EDIT: This is getting weird. Not only did I find the clear oring, I found 2! I didn’t think I replaced the original with 2. They were stuck together. I wouldn’t have done that but I guess i did. Wow. Only one is going back in.
This was the biggest surprise during open vape surgery. I really thought there was only one in there because… when I originally attempted the @dzoinp heater screen mod, the original oring came out by accident and I couldn’t get it back in as it was too curly and such. And the fact I didn’t have much experience doing it. Oh and it got lost behind a radiator so I got a few replacements thrown in with an accessories order. I really though I put just one in but I was definitely surprised two came out a few hours ago. Twins! Martha, we have twins! I guess it worked fine but I’ll I’ll put one back in. I’m still scratching my head how there were 2 in there.Also re: two orings stuck together let us know it works better with the two or just one, thx!
Used the CU the first week or so. Stopped and haven't looked back since.I’ve recently stopped using the CU for the Tinymight. I’m mostly using it with a WPA and a few different stems. I prefer an all glass setup and it means one less thing to clean.
Check your orings especially the thin one atop the glass cylinder. I’ve been tempted several times in 18 months to recalibrate my TM but never have and it’s always something else that needs adjustment.noticed my TM wasn’t firing like it used to, would barely get a ring on it at 10 and couldn’t ever get the green out of the bud.
tried loosening and readjusting, cleaned the contacts and tried the foil trick and that did not help.
I ended up recalibrating it, turned it on at 5.5 and moved/saved it to 7.5, thing is back to normal, ripping like asshole, has me afraid of combusting if i hit it too long at 10
I disassembled and reassembled it like 4 or 5 times checking everything, helped maybe a tiny bit but not anything i could really notice. Only recalibrated it when nothing else workedCheck your orings especially the thin one atop the glass cylinder. I’ve been tempted several times in 18 months to recalibrate my TM but never have and it’s always something else that needs adjustment.
Possibly that 2nd o-ring necessitated the shim!It’s alive! It’s alive! My TM survived surgery and I again have haptic feedback. I dispensed with the tinfoil shim under the top contact below the top plate because I couldn’t seat the plate on top with it. Which is strange because I had one there previously though a bit thinner.
Perhaps. Never thought of that. I was incredulous when two came out. I was not expecting twins but both were in there. Luckily they held their shape well and only put back one (and stored the other; I have one or two extra too). The one that came with my TM in March ‘20 accidentally dislodged (my own doing) after about 9 months and was so curly I couldn’t get it back in. I’m more seasoned now with that oring meaning I don’t touch it unless necessary. Live, learn, vapePossibly that 2nd o-ring necessitated the shim!
I broke my long stem a few weeks ago and replaced it with a grav octotaster filled with 6mm borosilicate balls for cooling. It’s light years better than stock with cooling unit. The vapor is so much cooler, it's easier to clean, now cooks the herb perfectly evenly, and tastes amazing. You can also remove balls to increase the bowl size. You don't need many of them for a significant impact on cooling:Been using the TM for a while and nothing come close. QQ I‘m using 2 CU in one stem most of the time, and wondering if any one has good mods for the cooling unit. Are there different CU now or is the original still the best for cool and compact.
These are my favorite 1-2 combination too. Use them both daily. The IO is my go-to out-and-about vape and the TM mostly stays at home. After my TM ‘surgery’ I can safely say its long term prognosis is excellent; vapor quality was improved a bit at lower temps, which I’ve been doing with all my vapes for a couple of months now. I’m still using hollow CUs (sans nuts & washers) for some cooling - and easier cleaning. TM is simply da bomb! Love it too after 18 months. TGIF to all!My favorite vapes . True portable heavy hitters . TM for 18 months. IO for 2 weeks . Very love it
TM told me they had changed how button was attached to board when my first unit broke after a week. Mine literally was on four stilts(legs fully extended) and not actually touching board .this seems to be an early unit design fault that has since been redesigned.
I broke my long stem a few weeks ago and replaced it with a grav octotaster filled with 6mm borosilicate balls for cooling. It’s light years better than stock with cooling unit. The vapor is so much cooler, it's easier to clean, now cooks the herb perfectly evenly, and tastes amazing. You can also remove balls to increase the bowl size. You don't need many of them for a significant impact on cooling:
Seriously, the flavor just lasts for hit after hit, the vapor is super cool, and cleaning is basically just a swish in ISO. No need to worry about o-rings or taking nuts and washers out of the CU.
Funny enough, that's exactly how I cracked my long stem. The CU got wedged in there and attempting to move it shattered the stem. With my current setup, the glass screen of the octotaster keeps the balls from moving up, and the basket screen keeps them secured from below. After a couple of sessions, the resin build-up on the balls further secures them. The setup also allows me to easily adjust the bowl size by adding and removing balls in seconds.I have almost the same setup! I basically took every internal part of the cooling unit out and used the top part to hold the balls in. Though, that still leaves metal in the vapor path. I went that way instead of using a screen, mostly because it looks cooler. I also hate it when my balls go flying, so I went with a more secure option.
It's so cool, I rarely want water filtration.
Funny enough, that's exactly how I cracked my long stem. The CU got wedged in there and attempting to move it shattered the stem. With my current setup, the glass screen of the octotaster keeps the balls from moving up, and the basket screen keeps them secured from below. After a couple of sessions, the resin build-up on the balls further secures them. The setup also allows me to easily adjust the bowl size by adding and removing balls in seconds.
Did you have to use any o rings?This is my favourite stem/cooling solution at the moment. I had to invert the MVS assembly to get it to fit, but it works really well.View attachment 12166
Nope. This setup only works because the tapered mouthpiece will fit into the stem like you might use an MVS with a water piece.Did you have to use any o rings?