TinyMight / TM 2

[YaMon]

Those circuits are pretty reliable these days. Of course it depends on implementation but I doubt there is any worry about the internal charger for overnight charging on a regular basis.

Assumptions I'm not willing to make as the consequences outweigh any perceived hassle.

Ha! Yeah I do want one. Thanks man, and thanks to @Brewervapesalot, @Siebter, and @TommyDee for the perspective.

To think I was going to start a pool.. about time brah!

 

[TommyDee]

Understood @YaMon . 5 years back I would have said the same. Multi-cell, definitely not. Single cell, no worries on my part.

 

[Siebter]

Assumptions I'm not willing to make as the consequences outweigh any perceived hassle.

Understood @YaMon . 5 years back I would have said the same. Multi-cell, definitely not. Single cell, no worries on my part.

I'm kinda in both of your boats – I very much assume that the battery manage system in this device works well, but I know for sure that it works in my external charger, which has been reviewed and tested quite a bit. Since I'm also an e cig user I'm charging 18650s every day anyway, so...

I still think it's cool to have the option to charge the battery internally, just in case.

 

[YaMon]

I very much assume that the battery manage system in this device works well

An assumption I'm not willing to make when fire is a possible outcome. I run my external charger on concrete away from combustibles

 

[TommyDee]

That does beg the question, do protected cells work in the TM? They are normally about 2mm longer.
I also haven't seen the minimum current capability requirement yet. I assume a 10-amp-capable protected cell works.

 

[MonkeyTime]

That does beg the question, do protected cells work in the TM? They are normally about 2mm longer.
I also haven't seen the minimum current capability requirement yet. I assume a 10-amp-capable protected cell works.

The eyeball test says no, a protected cell wouldn't fit. There's some play, but I don't think that much. I thought I read somewhere it required a 20A cell, but can't seem to find it now

There's been a number of conversations about under rated and over rated cells that have worked unless I'm confusing threads. I've tried a number of different batteries and all have performed. I've not determined if I like one over the other because they're all at different points in their lives. I like the VTC6 that came with it, it's the newest!

I can't say I've seen another mention of it here or elsewhere, so I'm thinking I may have something unique? Does anyone else's temp dial protrude beyond the aluminum cap? I've seen a number of members mention the screw protruding, but not their dial. Mine does more than the screw, and it's also very loose at lower numbers and tightens as it approaches 8. At lower numbers it rocks back and forth fairly easily and can slide side to side, up and down some too. As it dials higher, these all change until about 9 when it's how I wish it was always. Some resistance to rotating.

Am I alone with my condition of my dial?

I saw that someone also found one of the exact sizes for the smaller o-rings, but they've been out of stock since I found them. I ordered two large mixed sets of food grade silicone so I'll be able to fit those CU's to different diameter tubes. I've also started using MolyKote 111 as a lube on the o-rings, and it makes everything glide sooo smooth! This is what I bought, it's enough for 5 people for a long time and it's got a 5 year shelf life.

Molykote 111

Just the tiniest amount rubbed onto both the CU o-rings and the chamber one and it's smooth as glass! If it's picking up debris you've probably put too much on

As for the CU, I've also been keeping the o-rings on during the iso soak, always have and will continue until I find a reason not to. I think the wear of stretching on and off does more to them than the 99% iso I soak them in for 5-10 minutes.

I was away from the house for a few days which is normal, and I always leave with backups and spares so I'm rarely caught off guard, but until I took it apart, I didn't know how dirty they could get or how much it could affect airflow and performance. I know now! If you let them go, they can get very dirty and completely kill performance, I don't recommend you try this at home!

I'm really loving this thing. It's been very easy to adapt my usage to it, and while long term convenience can still get better with a few little changes, it's all second nature now. It's also now my daily out and about vape unless it's harsh environment (weather, dust, humidity, etc. that gets the Mighty).

 

[TommyDee]

Thanks @MonkeyTime . If they stated 20 amps, I can see how protection circuits won't do that much current. That a lot of power though. I have some LG's well rated for the job. I was just thinking 'double protection' for the internal charger.

PS, I'm not sure I want molybdenum that may off-gas into the vape path. Molybdenum is a metal known for lubricating properties. That is why it lasts. I just don't want that going into my lungs. Beeswax is the recommended lube for Dynavap. It is certainly good enough for me on TM o-rings.

 

[dzoinp]

I do not use any further screens.

One of the reasons I took the nuts and washers off the cu, was because I noticed a decrease in steam and more air restriction. I now realized that the screen of the cu clogs too much, and that was probably the thing. edit:I've also used it with 2 nuts + 1 washer and it works well but it looks like a rattle I already put all them back, but always testing:
Now I removed the screen from the cu and I'm just using the domed screen that is a bit inside the cu. This is because I don't like stirr and without the domed screen there are always some greens on the edge of the stem at the end of the session. So every 3/4 sessions I remove the domed screen to clean it and inside the first part of the cu too because there is no screen.

3 bowls, of .1 gram, 4 to 6 draws each bowl

3/4 min done!

In the future, im not even removing the silicone orings. I've never had issues with iso and silicone seals

With s & b o-rings and hot iso they stretch, but then return to normal if you put them in water...with a quick clean doesn't happen

I guess I dont understand the magnetic cap idea. It's an aluminum, wood, stainless, and glass device. Nothing magnetic and I just put the thing in my pocket to carry.
If you're worried about stuff falling in the heater if a stem is out, I'd just put a cork in the hole.

magnetic?
Short stem fits in the battery compartment ... but do not advise. pcb can be damage!
and the stem when inserted just comes out of the vape 2cm

nah, "nuts n washers" does not accurately describe the experience of using the cooling unit to me. Sure that's what it has in it, but so what? If it does need more cleaning for you, then that probably means you like it enough to use it a whole lot! Also xl8r will fit in reverse too

With xl8r stem how is it sealed in the top o-ring?

because of the holes in the stem ... it seems to me a crucial question for the good functioning...

Has anyone ever said that this vape is the best of the moment? For me it is. It's perfect? No! But it's nearby
A quick hit when you're going to pee is possible ... if you already have prostate problems you finish the 0.1 0.2 bowl.

 

[bossman]

magnetic?
Short stem fits in the battery compartment ... but do not advise. pcb can be damage!
and the stem when inserted just comes out of the vape 2cm

@Brewervapesalot was replying to my nitpicking post wishing the glass stem had a cap for pocket carry. I would still prefer this just to contain odor, keep lint out of the stem, and protect the exposed glass stem without needing to remove it. But I don't even own a Tinymight yet so I'm just popping off with wish list stuff.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So I guess is this device regulated or unregulated? First glance looks like the Milaana style which is unregulated but you guys speak of temp control so it just might be regulated.

Yes, but aside from the temp control the battery is regulated so you will not overly discharged it, and other such features that come with having an electronic board etc. Being unregulated in Milaana and similar vapes means power is based on battery level, plus zero electronics.

With xl8r stem how is it sealed in the top o-ring?

because of the holes in the stem ... it seems to me a crucial question for the good functioning...

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking but that is not a xl8r stem from RBT, it is a cooling stem from MPL that has built-in glass screen...

 

[Brewervapesalot]

Yes, but aside from the temp control the battery is regulated so you will not overly discharged it, and other such features that come with having an electronic board etc.



I'm not sure exactly what you're asking but that is not a xl8r stem from RBT, it is a cooling stem from MPL that has built-in glass screen...

I think he's asking how the xl8r stem, with all the bumps and variations in diameter blown/built in the stem, could make a seal on the red oring in the tiny might.

A solution would be to only push the stem slightly into the unit so the oring and stem mate and make a seal. Herb does not have to be all the way down inside the unit IME.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I think he's asking how the xl8r stem, with all the bumps and variations in diameter blown/built in the stem, could make a seal on the red oring in the tiny might.

A solution would be to only push the stem slightly into the unit so the oring and stem mate and make a seal. Herb does not have to be all the way down inside the unit IME.

Ah yes that is true and that would work, but also different cooling stems have different dimples in different places so there might be room depending on the stem... The dimples also only go in on one part so it could still make a seal theoretically... Someone else in here posted they were using one effectively in the TM at least! I've been using the regular straight stem without cooling dimples myself.

 

[MonkeyTime]

Thanks @MonkeyTime . If they stated 20 amps, I can see how protection circuits won't do that much current. That a lot of power though. I have some LG's well rated for the job. I was just thinking 'double protection' for the internal charger.

PS, I'm not sure I want molybdenum that may off-gas into the vape path. Molybdenum is a metal known for lubricating properties. That is why it lasts. I just don't want that going into my lungs. Beeswax is the recommended lube for Dynavap. It is certainly good enough for me on TM o-rings.

Dynavap's suggestion of beeswax is because of the wood isn't it? This is part of the Moly family, but I believe safe for this application. At 400F for 24 hours it evaporates 2%. This glass never gets that hot, while it's uncomfortable, I can hold the hot end right out of a hit. Not scientific, but telling. Maybe someone with better knowledge can weigh in?

Everyone has the right to their own level of comfort with batteries and substances. Some won't put cannabis into their body because of their beliefs..... I have also been doing a lot of reading about aluminum as of late. For health reasons some won't
go near it, but I've yet to find a report that was performed in a standardized way with controls that showed a link between it's use and alzheimer's and yet that is everyone's reason? I'm always for safety, just not seeing the risk here yet?

As for the xl8r stems, I have a short RBT one that the dimples line up fine for a seal with it all the way inserted. It's what I've been using the most when I got thru a water piece because of it's fit and ID with my screen assortment. All glass is not created equal, or sized consistently, for those looking for their own solution, know in advance, the next stem may not fit as well or at all. I've also seen the talks about the ELB's being used, but none of mine fit any of the glass I've tried.... luck of the draw!

 

[Dan B]

This vape ticks so many boxes, it's truly a game changer. However...

I will only buy this vape as soon as I see some kind of effort from the maker towards sorting out the issues with their previous customers. Chastise me all you want but this is my money, and if they want it then they need to impress me. I'm not saying you shouldn't buy from them, I'm merely giving my honest reason why I won't (yet).

 

[dzoinp]

I think he's asking how the xl8r stem, with all the bumps and variations in diameter blown/built in the stem, could make a seal on the red oring in the tiny might.

exactly tks

A solution would be to only push the stem slightly into the unit so the oring and stem mate and make a seal. Herb does not have to be all the way down inside the unit IME.

i pack my bowl almost at the bottom of the stem! 0.1/0.2
I can't even imagine what you're describing!
if you don't stick the stem closest to the coil I think it won't vaporize ... there will be a lot of heat loss I think ... but I haven't tried

I want a dimple stem that works on TM ...
Does anyone know where to buy? I don't use bong's I prefer straight on both sides

 

[namasteIII]

@ShayWhiteGrow How the TM for you sir? I always like your opinions elsewhere on this site.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Siebter]

The eyeball test says no, a protected cell wouldn't fit. There's some play, but I don't think that much. I thought I read somewhere it required a 20A cell, but can't seem to find it now

Battery protection should either be done by a bms *or* by the battery („protected“ means there's a chip on top that manages potential hazards) – combining them is never a good idea.

There's been a number of conversations about under rated and over rated cells that have worked unless I'm confusing threads. I've tried a number of different batteries and all have performed. I've not determined if I like one over the other because they're all at different points in their lives. I like the VTC6 that came with it, it's the newest!

TM recommends to use the Konion VTC6 only – it's indeed a very cool battery which combines lotsa mAh with lotsa current output, I don't think any other (reputable) battery on the market has the same ratio. I'm sure one could also use others like the VTC5/5A, as long as the current output is given – I think I saw someone in this thread using the Samsung INR18650-30Qs with the TM, and they will work, but since they have a much lower max. current output, they might get stressed in usage quit a bit more, so I'd avoid to use them in the TM.

I can't say I've seen another mention of it here or elsewhere, so I'm thinking I may have something unique? Does anyone else's temp dial protrude beyond the aluminum cap? I've seen a number of members mention the screw protruding, but not their dial. Mine does more than the screw, and it's also very loose at lower numbers and tightens as it approaches 8. At lower numbers it rocks back and forth fairly easily and can slide side to side, up and down some too. As it dials higher, these all change until about 9 when it's how I wish it was always. Some resistance to rotating.

Am I alone with my condition of my dial?

Oh oh, that sounds like an issue to me. The temp dial on my device sits totally flush with the aluminum plate, it also doesn't feel more loose or tighter when being adjusted, keeps being firm but smooth all the way. Has it been like that from the beginning?

One of the reasons I took the nuts and washers off the cu, was because I noticed a decrease in steam and more air restriction. I now realized that the screen of the cu clogs too much, and that was probably the thing. edit:I've also used it with 2 nuts + 1 washer and it works well but it looks like a rattle I already put all them back, but always testing:
Now I removed the screen from the cu and I'm just using the domed screen that is a bit inside the cu. This is because I don't like stirr and without the domed screen there are always some greens on the edge of the stem at the end of the session. So every 3/4 sessions I remove the domed screen to clean it and inside the first part of the cu too because there is no screen.

You know, I have seen some pictures and have wondered a bit about how some of you guys pack the chamber – because the screen of my cu (heehee) never gets clocked. I'm sure it's very much dictated by the way it's packed. As I said before, I like the herb to sit firm so it won't fall down on the screen above the heater, but it should definitely not be pressed against (or inside :-) ) the cu's screen. There's no need for it either; I actually pack the chamber *very* loose and will only press the last few millimeters down, that's enough for it to sit nicely in the chamber. The way I pack it I'm able to simply blow the spent herb out after a session, I do the same with my Dynavaps and found that this way the chamber stays cleaner than when being scratched out and brushed instead.

Dynavap's suggestion of beeswax is because of the wood isn't it? This is part of the Moly family, but I believe safe for this application. At 400F for 24 hours it evaporates 2%. This glass never gets that hot, while it's uncomfortable, I can hold the hot end right out of a hit. Not scientific, but telling. Maybe someone with better knowledge can weigh in?

When you can still hold it, it's definitely way below that – us humans can't even stand to touch water close to the boiling point. :-)

 

[TommyDee]

Dynavap's suggestion of beeswax is because of the wood isn't it? This is part of the Moly family, but I believe safe for this application. At 400F for 24 hours it evaporates 2%. This glass never gets that hot, while it's uncomfortable, I can hold the hot end right out of a hit. Not scientific, but telling. Maybe someone with better knowledge can weigh in?
<snip>

If the grease looses mass at 400F in 24 hours, it is also loosing mass at lesser temps but just not as much. Considering I am allergic as hell to grease, it could kill me if it did to my lungs what it does to my hands.

As to clarification; DynaWax is - also - good for conditioning the wood stems. They sell the wax with started kits for o-ring lube including the metal stem kits.

@Siebter - Considering BMS tech from China, I understand your reservation in using battery protection systems with protected cells. A dead cell in a 2S or more arrangement could be problematic. Thanks for pointing that out.
However, with a single cell, a tripped protection circuit on the cell just means an open circuit to the internal BMS of the device... basically it is just a charger with safeguards. No need for the sub-par divider circuit or regulated voltage as BMS systems require. Here there is a chip that drops 5V to 4.2 and TM has the 2A charge circuit enabled. That's fairly recent tech.

 

[dzoinp]

The way I pack it I'm able to simply blow the spent herb out after a session, I do the same with my Dynavaps and found that this way the chamber stays cleaner than when being scratched out and brushed instead.

Now there it is! I use the brush a lot, after the blowing but maybe its clogging the screen... along with fine grind...
next:
no brush! test...

 

[Alex3oe]

This vape ticks so many boxes, it's truly a game changer.

As good as this vape is, it isn't truly a "game changer". It's a very well built device, using in a widely way known techniques on top of todays standards. Delivered with the best suitable cell.

May don't fit here and even be not allowed, but speaking honest, I've been much more impressed from the Grasshopper after my first bowl, than the TinyMight. The Hopper, in this amazing leather pouch I got with it, is truly a unique device and I had never something comparable in my hands in nearly 25 years of vaping.
Only an example here from my personal views and feelings, please don't get offended here anyone

 

[Siebter]

May don't fit here and even be not allowed [...]

The Grasshopper??? Oh come ON, please...

Seriously, of course it's okay to have a different opinion. :-)

 

[LabPong]

As good as this vape is, it isn't truly a "game changer". It's a very well built device, using in a widely way known techniques on top of todays standards. Delivered with the best suitable cell.

May don't fit here and even be not allowed, but speaking honest, I've been much more impressed from the Grasshopper after my first bowl, than the TinyMight. The Hopper, in this amazing leather pouch I got with it, is truly a unique device and I had never something comparable in my hands in nearly 25 years of vaping.
Only an example here from my personal views and feelings, please don't get offended here anyone

If the Tiny Might came with a cool leather pouch...... would you consider it of "game changing" status?

 

[Siebter]

Leather beats hemp pouch, that's just the way it is.

 

[MonkeyTime]

Battery protection should either be done by a bms *or* by the battery („protected“ means there's a chip on top that manages potential hazards) – combining them is never a good idea.

I was just answering his question as to whether or not it would fit and don't own any

Oh oh, that sounds like an issue to me. The temp dial on my device sits totally flush with the aluminum plate, it also doesn't feel more loose or tighter when being adjusted, keeps being firm but smooth all the way. Has it been like that from the beginning?

Yes, but it seems to be getting worse. It's getting a lot of work, it still sorta feels like I'm in the honeymoon phase, but the amount it's loose at 5 seems worse since day 1 I don't want to be the first warranty case!

When you can still hold it, it's definitely way below that – us humans can't even stand to touch water close to the boiling point. :-)

I agree it's well under, but what we can touch has more to do with the object that's heated and it's thermal transfer properties or mass. You can walk over coals of wood, but metal at the same temperature would burn us.

 

[Siebter]

I was just answering his question as to whether or not it would fit and don't own any

Ah, okay. :-)

I don't want to be the first warranty case!

The chances of that issue solving itself seem pretty low to me...