I know it says screwdriver in the manual, but I recommend some kind of blunt, wooden tool like a chopstick or the non-brush end of a brush. For increasing the chamber size I use my finger. In case the cooling unit behaves a bit stiff (which it sometimes does when it's clean) create some condensation by breathing into the tube a bit.Quick question what size is the screw for the cooling units ? I don’t want to damage head of screw pushing in cooliing units
I was asking so if I have take apart I can order right bit? TiaI know it says screwdriver in the manual, but I recommend some kind of blunt, wooden tool like a chopstick or the non-brush end of a brush. For increasing the chamber size I use my finger. In case the cooling unit behaves a bit stiff (which it sometimes does when it's clean) create some condensation by breathing into the tube a bit.
Ty That’s what I was thinking , cause that bolt head doesn’t fit anything I have so glad I ain’t gotta mess with!@Djsleepy – Plus pole first.
Edit: I never really take my cu apart and recommend doing so as well to reduce hassle. But you can disassemble the cooling unit by hand anyway, just unscrew one cylinder from the other, no screwdriver needed.
That doesn't seem to make much sense. Does your order history say something about it? Customer service stuff might result in faster communication when using your account instead of mail.If you order 2 do the come in separate boxes/shipments?
It should be flush with the top plate to prevent the battery from rattling / fucking up the contacts, so keep screwing after the device did its buzz feedback.When screwing battery cap on should it be flush with top or do I stop turning after I feel tension/tightening?
Great! Happy flight.First couple of hits......WOW ! You guys are right there is a hell of a punch gonna get back to testing!
Try again by using the account options. Good luck, I understand it sucks.I looked up the order but no info about how they shipped them. I have used my account and email with order number. Not one reply in two months.
What do you mean by using account options?It should be flush with the top plate to prevent the battery from rattling / fucking up the contacts, so keep screwing after the device did its buzz feedback.
Great! Happy flight.
Try again by using the account options. Good luck, I understand it sucks.
Don't tighten it beyond the buzz.When screwing battery cap on should it be flush with top or do I stop turning after I feel tension/tightening?
First couple of hits......WOW ! You guys are right there is a hell of a punch gonna get back to testing!
Thanks I didn’t push it and things are going great! I’ve got some of the oil for flashlight grooves coming.....Don't tighten it beyond the buzz.
So long as the battery makes contacts, the unit is useable and as the threading is one of the weakest parts of the unit (with many users reporting stuck battery caps due to the soft aluminium breaking down) it is not a good idea to tighten it flush.
TIP : Also, clean the threads regularly with either a pencil eraser or blu tack to prevent thread locking!
The only section I see is for a return and I did use that form to inform the maker of my order shortage. Very frustrated at this point.@Temple – Not sure if you did that already: when logged into your account on the TM site, you can view your order history and also file a complaint or request for the respective item.
In the long run it is definitely the better idea to screw the cap down fully, makes the contacts inside the device live longer. Also when the device has buzzed when closing the lid, the cap is already way beyond the point where it could cross thread anyway.So long as the battery makes contacts, the unit is useable and as the threading is one of the weakest parts of the unit (with many users reporting stuck battery caps due to the soft aluminium breaking down) it is not a good idea to tighten it flush.
When screwing battery cap on should it be flush with top or do I stop turning after I feel tension/tightening?
I always tighten by thumb and, after the buzz, a quarter turn or so more. That’s it. The slot always perpendicular to the stem is my favorite aesthetic (beside the beauty of the vape itself). And don’t drop batteries into the chamber either; they should be inserted carefully. I’ve never had a problem with the battery compartment or cover. In fact I recently cleaned the cover for the first time in months and it’s silky smooth for me. TGIF!Don't tighten it beyond the buzz.
Exactly what I do. If you stop at the buzz I think you may be asking for oxidation on the battery contacts. Mine gets flush with about an extra 1/4 turn.I always tighten by thumb and, after the buzz, a quarter turn or so more. That’s it.
This is my method as well, down to the OCD slot alignmentI always tighten by thumb and, after the buzz, a quarter turn or so more. That’s it. The slot always perpendicular to the stem is my favorite aesthetic (beside the beauty of the vape itself). And don’t drop batteries into the chamber either; they should be inserted carefully. I’ve never had a problem with the battery compartment or cover. In fact I recently cleaned the cover for the first time in months and it’s silky smooth for me. TGIF!
me too. it just looks nicer.This is my method as well, down to the OCD slot alignment
In both modes?I've been having problems with my TM.
Is there any other way?!This is my method as well, down to the OCD slot alignment
I've been having problems with my TM. I'll take it apart (I'm getting good at this), clean the contacts, put it back together, and then I'll get 2 hits at 6. Then nothing. I'll turn it up to 10. No vape, and no mouth-feel of heat. It's weird. Any ideas what's up? Full battery: 4 heptic jolts.