I was using these two stems back to back yesterday switching out after each hit to directly compare them. With all the internals of the cooling unit removed and filled with 4mm boro balls the draw is ridiculously wide open on the long stem. I've been using it since I posted pics earlier in the thread and I can safely say it's (mostly) my favorite setup. The mouthpiece on the Grav Labs is a better "sipper" stem but the ball stem gets me medicated quickly while really cooling the vapor. Each hit I would take was always bigger with the balI stem because of how little draw restriction there is. I started at temp 5 for a single draw then onto 7 where I stayed to finish each stem. I normally temp step starting at 4~ and slowly working my way up and I'm fine without stirring but this was more needed. I still did not, for science and because I was getting really baked and lazy
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@TastyCakeWasTasty
My only advice is to make sure your contacts are clean especially the screw in piece as well as the terminals of your cell. A white eraser worked the best for me when there was a decent amount of build up otherwise every time I change a cell I'll push and spin the piece on a piece of paper or paper towel. All the oxidization occurs at the negative terminal so I "erased" the aluminium ring that protrudes from the cap, the threads on the cap and device and the negative terminal of the cell itself. I haven't had any issues with the positive terminal and my cells always face down. There are better ways to clean oxidized aluminum but this works for me.
Now that I think about it, I wonder if the metal strip that butts up against the top plate could be causing an issue? It's the third picture down
https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tinymight-vaporizer.44563/post-1508932
Has anyone checked for oxidization on the top cap at that point? If not, someone with a weak device should try cleaning only that area and seeing what the results are.
What about the few devices that have a taller wood body, could they be preventing solid electrical contact or just not be tight enough to prevent oxidization? I'm spit balling here so I could be way off.
A lack of power after a few months seems weird in my mind because I can't see what would be causing it if an owner knows their cells are good. It's not a calibration issue or they wouldn't have worked properly in the first place. The coil in these devices is very robust so I don't see that being the problem either. Possibly a bad solder point causing issues?