TinyMight / TM 2

androponic

vaped.
Has anyone had issues with their heater not getting hot enough all of a sudden? I've tried different packs and bowl sizes and always the same result; I get one or two okay hits (not nearly as good as I was getting before) at setting 8 and the herb is practically green. I've tried pulling really slow and long and barely get any vapor after those two hits. Any thoughts? I've tried different batteries as well and no luck.
try cleaning the battery contacts with iso. use a qtip to clean the one down inside the battery hole and clean the battery port cover really well, the cover is where some usere have seen some residue come off and this could compromise the connection.
 

CremeFraiche1127

Active Member
try cleaning the battery contacts with iso. use a qtip to clean the one down inside the battery hole and clean the battery port cover really well, the cover is where some usere have seen some residue come off and this could compromise the connection.
Thanks! I'll give that a try. I think I remember a lot of residue on my fingers when the cover got stuck a few days ago. When I clean with iso should I just dab it with a q tip and then let it dry?
 
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Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
When I clean with iso should I just dab it with a q tip and then let it dry?
Yes, light ISO application and let dry for a bit. I haven’t had the issue reported but do clean the battery cover occasionally. Haven’t cleaned the bottom contact yet but I should too soon. Good luck.
:peace:
 
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androponic

vaped.
Thanks! I'll give that a try. I think I remember a lot of residue on my fingers when the cover got stuck a few days ago. When I clean with iso should I just dab it with a q tip and then let it dry?
the inside connection yes, the inside of the cover i would use a little friction and be sure to get it clean. maybe use a scotchbrite pad if you have some.
 
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dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Haven’t cleaned the bottom contact yet but I should too soon
The bottom contact is not a problem ... as long as the battery is not dropped into the hole.
Screwing and unscrewing the battery cover is what causes the accumulation of residue

the inside connection yes, the inside of the cover i would use a little friction and be sure to get it clean. maybe use a scotchbrite pad if you have some.
I recommend only ISO swab.
scotchbrite is too abrasive ... I'm always saying this to my wife :rofl:
 

WisePenny

unknown. unmember.
Has anyone had issues with their heater not getting hot enough all of a sudden? I've tried different packs and bowl sizes and always the same result; I get one or two okay hits (not nearly as good as I was getting before) at setting 8 and the herb is practically green. I've tried pulling really slow and long and barely get any vapor after those two hits. Any thoughts? I've tried different batteries as well and no luck.

Maybe try loosening and re-tightening to adjust the top red o-ring. Could be that there isn't a tight seal and you are sucking air.
 

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Has anyone had issues with their heater not getting hot enough all of a sudden? I've tried different packs and bowl sizes and always the same result; I get one or two okay hits (not nearly as good as I was getting before) at setting 8 and the herb is practically green. I've tried pulling really slow and long and barely get any vapor after those two hits. Any thoughts? I've tried different batteries as well and no luck.
I am having the same problem. Gonna try it out now after cleaning the contact. Let's see how we go...

Okay, that was better. Had to run it at 10 though. Thanks for the advice guys/gal's.
 

angular ocelot

Well-Known Member
a question for the initiates, we know there is a secret way to turn the heat up or down on the device but is it possible to do this accidentally? my device is perfect, temperature wise, but i do worry i could accidentally mess it up. im not asking for anyone to spill any secrets, just whether it is possible or not.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Thanks - just ordered 10 for the stem in black. 👍
I ordered both too (in black). Ordered extras just in case and I’ll throw a few to @VapeKnight when they arrive (“slow boat from China“ has never been more relevant but I’m no rush for these). I like the stem caps to cover the stem when the TM is in my pocket, which has been more frequent lately :). Until I can do the cork cover thing the stem caps will suffice.

Had another 24-hour T break yesterday due to work. I can’t wait to use my Tinymight later. I may even play which spare red orings fit best from the latest eBay order. I also need to try both of my short stems and cooling units too to see which fit best. Lots of TM fun :brow::peace:
 
Vaporific,

zor

Well-Known Member
a question for the initiates, we know there is a secret way to turn the heat up or down on the device but is it possible to do this accidentally? my device is perfect, temperature wise, but i do worry i could accidentally mess it up. im not asking for anyone to spill any secrets, just whether it is possible or not.

Anything is possible when you're high enough :)

I suspect it is even more difficult to accidentally trigger/reconfigure given the process for disabling haptic feedback or the LED; that has a pretty unique and specific dial/button engagement that I can't see resulting from haphazard handling.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
a question for the initiates, we know there is a secret way to turn the heat up or down on the device but is it possible to do this accidentally? my device is perfect, temperature wise, but i do worry i could accidentally mess it up. im not asking for anyone to spill any secrets, just whether it is possible or not.
Yeah my understanding is that the boost option is only in session mode. One pro tip is to wait for the haptic buzz before you start your draw. Some users have issues with the temp sensor getting confused if you start your draw too early.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I’ve checked my TM against the stock photos, the GAP between the “Tube Holder Ring” and the top of the body is the same. My understanding is this ring is threaded and adds some adjustment to the tightness of how the glass tubes slide in. Looks like this tube holder ring simply presses down on the RED O-RING, compressing it making it fatter/wider. All good.

MY ISSUE/QUESTION:

On my TM, this “Tube Holder Ring”, has very FEW threads on it, especially looking at the deep threads on the body where it screws down. My ring “screws”, ON/OFF with JUST an 1/8 of a turn, goes NO further. This means there is no real means of adjusting it either way. It’s either ON, or with 1/8 of turn, comes off.

Can current owners CONFIRM this on their TM’s, just received mine yesterday, and this “adjustable” ring, does not seem right. Thanks. 63FD0B6A-F54C-43B5-9D0D-8B2014DCCAD3.jpeg
 
RustyOldNail,

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
I've been meaning to get back to this thread...super busy lately. But just wanted to say I tried the grav upline 3" taster as a stem this past friday... can't believe I havent posted in here since before that. But anyway...

I have mixed feelings on the stem so far. I've only used it once so I dont want to write it off too quickly, its definitely different.

My first maybe, 2 hits, I thought to myself I dont understand why anybody would chose this stem over the stock one. I forget where I was on the dial but it was most likely between 3.5-4.5, I just got back from work at the time and I tend to stick to lower temps at those hours. Those first hits were not nearly as smooth as the stock stems, I would assume because the CU is that effective, but I've also been wondering if its robbing some vapor. Rather than accumulating/condensing on a cool stainless steel CU, now you're getting all of that to your lungs. It would make sense to me anyway, because shortly after that I bumped it up a notch or two and was pretty high. I'll have to do some more comparison experimentation because I thought it hit harder than the stock stem, but that could be in my head. It certainly felt like I was higher than normal for the size of the load and the selected temps - which is what made me wonder about the possibility of the CU robbing vapor. So I was pretty happy with the stem at those temps

The downside - now that I had indulged a bit, felt really good, returned to the TM and raised the temp to 7 ish. Still got good vapor, wasnt nearly as harsh as the initial 1-2 hits, I assume because I had already vaped most of the good stuff and vapor density went down which is to be expected. The downside was that the stem got uncomfortably hot for me trying to do 2-3 hits at that temp, borderline burning my lips. After my couple hits I pulled the stem out to check the color on the AVB...the stem was so hot I wasn't even comfortable putting it back in the device so I left it out to cool. I was just worried it would radiate too much heat, or the expanding stem might but too much pressure on the interior of the unit, probably a completely baseless worry, but still after a few hits... you know how it goes. Rather be safe than sorry. That goes to show the CU does more than just cool the vapor, it keeps the stem cool as well, meaning less heat radiating back to the TM body.

That reminds me, the AVB, it seemed more even compared to the stock stem with CU. Not the "inside" of the puck, that was about the same, but the outer layer seemed more evenly toasted. Take that with a grain of salt as I've only done one bowl with this stem, but I was thinking maybe because the glass stem retains more heat rather than being absorbed into the CU, it helps heat the bud along the stem walls?

So my initial conclusion, although maybe too early to say for sure, its a good stem, especially for low temp usage. For high temp usage I would tend to go for a stock stem with CU, especially if its going to be a longer session, back to back hits, possibly reloading a stem - that said, I still want to try a high temp hit or two with fresh bud and a completely cool grav stem.

I still have trouble experimenting with different configurations, I only like to do it when I have a lot of peace and quiet in the house lol. Hard to actually pay attention to what I'm doing and such subtle differences (sometimes) if there's too many distractions/too many things I need to be doing. During the week, or if I have a particularly busy weekend, I just stick with what I know works and what I know will give me reliable and repeatable results.

@RustyOldNail I'm not sure if my issue was the same, but try removing the adjustable ring entirely. When you reset it, apply some downwards force before you start turning.

I believe that you need to compress the o-ring a little bit in order to get the cap threads to align with the body threads. Otherwise in my experience it almost gets cross threaded, and seems to bind within the first 1/8th of a turn or whatever and it feels like you have to force it too much to even try to get a little more. Giving a little pressure, compressing the o-ring, I found the cap hooks up to the body a little easier and you can turn it more easily. Still though, you dont get a TON of adjustment out of it as the cap is relatively short and an o-ring can only be compressed so much. The adjustment is pretty sensitive too, if the stem seems to be resisting, the tiniest bit of adjustment seems to loosen up pretty well.

also, if the TM interior body walls are dirty it also seems to add to the resistance. Just something else I've noticed.
 
Last edited:

Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Can current owners CONFIRM this on their TM’s, just received mine yesterday, and this “adjustable” ring, does not seem right. Thanks.

It does sound right to me. What you adjust is only how firmly the tube can be inserted & removed, which is only a matter of fractions of a millimeter (referring to the width of the red o ring).
 

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
I’ve checked my TM against the stock photos, the GAP between the “Tube Holder Ring” and the top of the body is the same. My understanding is this ring is threaded and adds some adjustment to the tightness of how the glass tubes slide in. Looks like this tube holder ring simply presses down on the RED O-RING, compressing it making it fatter/wider. All good.

MY ISSUE/QUESTION:

On my TM, this “Tube Holder Ring”, has very FEW threads on it, especially looking at the deep threads on the body where it screws down. My ring “screws”, ON/OFF with JUST an 1/8 of a turn, goes NO further. This means there is no real means of adjusting it either way. It’s either ON, or with 1/8 of turn, comes off.

Can current owners CONFIRM this on their TM’s, just received mine yesterday, and this “adjustable” ring, does not seem right. Thanks.

I mentioned this here before.
Ville's justification six months ago is that there are differences in height in the wooden body.
How has he not solved this yet?:hmm::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust:
I shortened the inner aluminum tube 1mm :whip:
IMG-20200507-162656.jpg

🇵🇹
 

WisePenny

unknown. unmember.
@RustyOldNail I'm not sure if my issue was the same, but try removing the adjustable ring entirely. When you reset it, apply some downwards force before you start turning.

I believe that you need to compress the o-ring a little bit in order to get the cap threads to align with the body threads. Otherwise in my experience it almost gets cross threaded, and seems to bind within the first 1/8th of a turn or whatever and it feels like you have to force it too much to even try to get a little more. Giving a little pressure, compressing the o-ring, I found the cap hooks up to the body a little easier and you can turn it more easily. Still though, you dont get a TON of adjustment out of it as the cap is relatively short and an o-ring can only be compressed so much. The adjustment is pretty sensitive too, if the stem seems to be resisting, the tiniest bit of adjustment seems to loosen up pretty well.

also, if the TM interior body walls are dirty it also seems to add to the resistance. Just something else I've noticed.

This rings true with my experience as well
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I mentioned this here before.
Ville's justification six months ago is that there are differences in height in the wooden body.
How has he not solved this yet?:hmm::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust::disgust:
I shortened the inner aluminum tube 1mm :whip:
IMG-20200507-162656.jpg

🇵🇹

Shorting the tube works NOT help on my TM, as the cap can’t screw on any further, even with the tube and oring REMOVED. I’m NOT exaggerating, 1/8 of a turn, both ON/OFF, very few threads on my cap.

A few others have responded, seems mine is no different. Thanks to those for checking. Just seems odd that the cap doesn’t really screw on much, and there are a lot more threads left unused in the chamber body.
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
mine goes on a whole turn.
edit to add: two full turns without the silicone ring in.

Wow! When it’s fully tightened down, do you still have the gap between the cap and the body, as illustrated in my photo a few posts above. That section has no threads.
 
RustyOldNail,

clive_bob

Well-Known Member
Those of you who needed repair support, how long did it take you to get a reply?

I wrote to him 2 weeks ago and I only got one automatic reply saying they are sorry they can't reply right now.

Is the owner known for not answering his emails?
My experience has been that there really is no support. My unit malfunctioned upon arrival (haptic buzz ceased operation). Like you, received the auto reply. Two weeks later he responded to email and said to send it in for repair. When I checked shipping costs for DHL (original shipper) and Fedex, both were well over $100 one way. I emailed him back and have not heard from him. This all started a month ago.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
yes. when it's in use the little flange has a gap of maybe a millimetre and a half to the top plate.

That sounds more like I would expect an “adjustment” ring to behave. With a full rotation on your unit, you have complete control. My stems fit, so I’ll have to deal with what limited tiny adjustment I may have, but if I turn mine more then a touch, it comes off.

No sense in emailing TM, due to the juvenile email “bomb” campaign organized in the shipping thread, emails at thIs point go into the void. Someday, assuming TM is still in business, I’ll ask them about this.
 

angular ocelot

Well-Known Member
My experience has been that there really is no support. My unit malfunctioned upon arrival (haptic buzz ceased operation). Like you, received the auto reply. Two weeks later he responded to email and said to send it in for repair. When I checked shipping costs for DHL (original shipper) and Fedex, both were well over $100 one way. I emailed him back and have not heard from him. This all started a month ago.
my haptic feedback cuts out intermittently and although i would like to get that sorted i wont unless i have another one in my hands first. even then i wouldnt want to let it go.
it still functions fine, the only drawback is not knowing your battery strength. when in on demand mode you dont have the buzz when it gets to temp but i just count to ten or listen to the tone of the buzz, which changes noticeably when it reaches temp. in session mode it makes no difference.
 
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