TinyMight / TM 2

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
The CU cleaning process has been discussed a lot in this thread. I searched on it, and read what I could. The CU does seem to slowly clog up, and since you can’t see inside the CU, you must judge when to clean by logging usage, or by draw feel. On my new TM, I’ve probably done 10-15 loads, and I’m feeling more resistance, this will obviously depend on grind, strain, moisture content, etc. Regardless, whenever you decide to clean it, up to you.

So this is my own opinion and routine.

I have no doubt taking apart every nut and washer would be the ultimate clean. With that said, the easier to clean anything, the MORE OFTEN, I’ll actually clean it, and frequent cleaning is usually always easier to start, and less time consuming. Taking into account the various similar ways members shared their techniques, I’m trying it the simple and easy way at first.

I keep the CU inside the short stem, one piece.

1) FILL container with 99% ISO.
Using a small plastic snap-cap case/tube I bought on the Dynavap site. Any small tube that will hold just the stem with little extra space to save the amount ISO solvent. Plastic is good, these tubes have no reaction to the ISO from I can tell, and I won’t be soaking long. A soft container means you can shake the glass tube inside a bit, for agitation.

2) Soak & Shake
I wait 5 minutes for the 99% ISO soak, then a 5 minute hot TAP water rinse, then a splash of distilled water, to get rid of any tap water minerals or crap.

3) QUICK DRY
Blow out both ends of the stem with a small air compressor, CU has not been removed from beginning. Stem and CU are ready for more action.
NOTE: If you don’t have a compressor, blow out by mouth best you can, let air dry overnight.

CAUTION NOTE:
I use 99% ISO for a lot of my cleaning chores, I can always dilute it with water if I want. I’m using it full strength here, to reduce soak time. Reason I’m mentioning this, is we all know you don’t want to soak any silicone for long periods of time. But it’s not usually an issue on quality silicone in SHORTER times. Leaving the CU as is, inside the glass stem, saves the time removing it and then the rings. Since I bought extra o-rings, I’m covered if these particular CU “red” o-rings feel looser at some point. Long term will be the final judgment.

This seems to be the fastest, easiest way to clean both the stem and CU, with minimal labor and materials, in my opinion. It’s not a replacement for a total tear down cleaning, but will put that fun day off for a long time, with many flavorful vapes in between.
 

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
I never use session mode like that, because I want to clear my hits, I don't want vapor sitting in the device condensing on unwanted surfaces... I only use session mode as a way to hold down the button without having to actually hold it down, so basically I'm just using it for one hitter bowls through water.

Hmmm...I thought even tho is on session mode, its still 100% convection...

But I get what you and @Shit Snacks say.
I'll use it on demand, even with my HT.
 
m0sh,

WisePenny

unknown. unmember.
...but the issue could be on the cap end, and there are very few threads on mine to mess with.

FWIW: While I’m no metal worker, I’ve dealt with aluminum threads on over 25 ECig mods, and probably 20 flashlights, among other devices, so I’m a bit familiar with the topic.

Bottom line, unit is still functional, but my cap/body threads are not right. I won’t lose sleep over it, just helps to know.
If the issue is just with your cap end, it may be worth sending an email into the abyss. Who knows, in 2 months you may get a new cap end in the mail, and it will be an easy fix.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
I understand the intention of having the cap being adjustable, to slightly depress the oring, making the opening for the glass tube, tighter, or looser. My unit does NOT have that capability, as it’s either on all the way, or it comes off with barely a minimal twist. As you’ve read the user post above, the cap should be able to screw all the way down till it’s flush with the body, without the oring and sleeve of course. Mine does not do that, which indicates to me the threading on my unit is not right. So while I’ve read that bit in the instructions, I cannot “over tighten”, my cap just stops after 1/8 of a turn. I can’t explain it much better, but since it’s functional, I’m not going to mess with stressing the threads, by using force. If I had a piece of steel with the exact same threading, or a decent re-threading tool set, I’d try to re-tap the body threads first, but the issue could be on the cap end, and there are very few threads on mine to mess with.

FWIW: While I’m no metal worker, I’ve dealt with aluminum threads on over 25 ECig mods, and probably 20 flashlights, among other devices, so I’m a bit familiar with the topic.

Bottom line, unit is still functional, but my cap/body threads are not right. I won’t lose sleep over it, just helps to know.

It is because the aluminum sleeve needs to be 1mm or so shorter. For some reason the sleeve changed in length slightly from earlier first batches.

I used a medium file to take off just a mm or so.....problem solved and the cap rings goes down as far as the first TM I have does.

So your only fix is to do the same or live with what you have.....
 
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LabPong,

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
It is because the aluminum sleeve needs to be 1mm or so shorter. For some reason the sleeve changed in length slightly from earlier first batches.

I used a medium file to take off just a mm or so.....problem solved and the cap rings goes down as far as the first TM I have does.

So your only fix is to do the same or live with what you have.....
It's literally in the quote you've quoted that they can't screw it in when the sleeve isn't even in the thing, so filing it back isn't gonna do squat.
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
My experience has been that there really is no support. My unit malfunctioned upon arrival (haptic buzz ceased operation). Like you, received the auto reply. Two weeks later he responded to email and said to send it in for repair. When I checked shipping costs for DHL (original shipper) and Fedex, both were well over $100 one way. I emailed him back and have not heard from him. This all started a month ago.

I don't know where you are located, but USPS will ship internationally for $14.50.

All jokes aside the CS situation seems to be worsening. This is concerning, I hope they can come to the rational conclusion that it's high time to grow the team. Hopefully before an implosion happens and we're all out of our 10 year warranty.

If you are that concerned why not sell your unit in the classifieds? I would be shocked if it was not sold within hours.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hmmm...I thought even tho is on session mode, its still 100% convection...

But I get what you and @Shit Snacks say.
I'll use it on demand, even with my HT.

It is still pure convection, I didn't say it was still cooking herb when I wasn't inhaling, but it's not possible to clear vapor unless you remove the bowl or turn off the power...
 
Shit Snacks,
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PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Man. So, cleaning the threads worked a little, I can vape well enough with it now. But battery life still sucks and I have to hit it at 10. I really wish I could get to the bottom of this, but I am no tinkerer.
 
PossumMD,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
It's literally in the quote you've quoted that they can't screw it in when the sleeve isn't even in the thing, so filing it back isn't gonna do squat.

Thank you, for pointing that out, saved me from typing the same thing, over and over.......

I TRY to post both QUESTIONS and ANSWERS to members as CAREFULLY & DETAILED, (worded) as I can. Lately, this doesn’t seem to matter. I’m going to slow down my participation....
 

trevytrev

Happy little clouds
Well mine arrived today and just WOW! I'm still getting used to it, nearly combusted a couple of times, that was from not waiting for the haptic buzz in the on demand mode but other than that it rips!!!
 

Djsleepy

Well-Known Member
Am I wrong in thinking that my Solo2 is a similar hit (power) ? as they both work from bud placed in the end of stem....I don’t personally get a “punch” from Solo2, my FF2+ does sometimes .....I’d like back to back punches to medicate me quickly. TIA

Well mine arrived today and just WOW! I'm still getting used to it, nearly combusted a couple of times, that was from not waiting for the haptic buzz in the on demand mode but other than that it rips!!!

So after you get more time with your new toy would to hear your review! Enjoy!
 
Djsleepy,

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Am I wrong in thinking that my Solo2 is a similar hit (power) ? as they both work from bud placed in the end of stem....I don’t personally get a “punch” from Solo2, my FF2+ does sometimes .....I’d like back to back punches to medicate me quickly. TIA

Yep you are wrong, they both use a glass stem, but Solo is session conduction. TM is closer to the on demand convection FF, but it may have purer convection with the glass stems, and it has much more watts aka power than both vapes, so tinymight will likely medicate you even quicker!
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Fuck...my eardrums burst
Edit:
I don't hear my tm

Mine too. I forgot about all the posts and reviewer talking about the “noise” the heater makes. I guess he figured it out, as it’s silent right next to my ear in on demand mode. In session mode, again touching my ear, I could hear some faint noise, probably PWM, as most assumed.

Hmmmm, wonder if I can vape through my ear, since it’s there.....
 

ominosity

Well-Known Member
The buzzer on my unit has just stopped working. Everything else is fine. Not sure if I’ve accidentally triggered a stealth mode. Any thoughts?
 
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