Discontinued The Timber Elite by Vapwood

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I want to move this thread to the regular portable forum. Do I need a moderator for that?

I wish there were more hours in the day, because at the end of the day I always want to accomplish more. I normally work til about 5 or so (not a night guy), but always have that feeling of not getting enough done. I guess that's the nature of this game until final assembly, when complete satisfaction from a job well done can really sink in. Got a bit side tracked when I realized I'd let my shop get a bit out of control, so I spent half the morning organizing. Can't get much accomplished when you can't find anything in the mess. In the end, got some work done on cover plates. I marked up about 20 blanks, and this afternoon I'm going to cut a few. The process has become quite a bit easier than when I first started, but I realize that wood species means a lot here. So far, Cherry is number one fine marking, and shaping into a cover plate. First batch of units will probably be Cherry, or at least have a cherry cover plate.

In the meantime an observation on the Elite as my DD for a few weeks now. I'm sure people will have many different opinions on this, but since my first Elite session, I haven't gone back. What has sold me so completely is testing doesn't feel like work. Usually during the testing phase, I go through lots of product, not possible with the Elite. Whether I use it in Watts, TC, or Replay, I can get great results with some simple adjustments. Don't be afraid to adjust the resistance level of the coil (atomizer), as this has a profound affect on all the other settings. I've been working it from .32 to .38 with some crazy cool results.

The little preheat bump lasts for a fraction of a second, but really eliminates all waiting time. If you watch preheat on the graph on your PC, you can see it spike for a fraction of a second, then drop to the your power setting. Flower really benefits from this bump. Combustion is difficult unless you push in Watts mode and ignore all signals that combustion is imminent. We though there was lots of was to use the Classic. This takes things to another level, but somehow without being confusing. It's a very easy vape to learn, not really any technique, just certain things you need to know to get the results I'm talking about, but which are very easy to execute.

Replay is an awesome feature, but it has its limits with dry flower because the flower changes so much with each hit. What worked on the first draw won't produce the best result on the sixth draw, so replay might be a bit restrictive in certain situations. To switch it on and off is a click or two.

I anticipate lots of sales once the Elite gets out there. I'm not sure how many units I can bang out each month, but we're going to find out soon. At this point it's tough to gauge, as things will speed up in the future. Like I said before, the Elite with @Alan's coil and and Evolv's DNA75 Color board is a portable game changer.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
^^ @Stu or @pakalolo ?
Mike wants to bump the Elite in the portable section from the unreleased. He did ship 1 unit and has one or two more ready to ship and a batch lined for February shipping as well . Is it cool?
Thanks @P.A.M. @Stu @pakalolo.

The Elite is now officially on sale at vapwood.com!

Today I formed 20 cover plates. The plan wasn't to to build so many, but once the saw is set, planer is set, drill press is set, it doesn't take much longer to do 20 than 6 or 10. Mostly Cherry, this is the first batch of cover plates that will make it into sold units. Tomorrow, first thing, it's time to finish them up by hand. I think the hand finishing will take place a few at a time, as I assemble units. Unlike machining, there isn't much set up involved, just me at my workbench with chisel, knife, file, and sand paper. I leave them a hair wide, then right before final assembly, fit them to the unit. That means that I should get a unit or two assembled really soon. I'm going back to the machine set screw, tapping the wood, to fix them to the body. That was the original plan, and probably the best idea.
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Thanks so much for the Lil' Bud Elite prototype @Bravesst. I have been enjoying it so much. Well done. The performance is just like an iHeat on a mod box w/ a DNA75C board. So nice to have all of these options available. The puff info screen is quite helpful. I like to adjust the atomizer resistance so that the wattage shown on the puff info screen is very close to the wattage value set in the temperature control mode. If the wattage is higher, I adjust the atomizer resistance down to the next value and try again until I get the display wattage close to the set wattage. The green line is the wattage value which does start very high for less than one second (the vertical lines are one second apart). The blue line is voltage and the red line is temperature. The game has certainly been changed with the Elite.
I replaced the cross slot head screws with set screws which are set slightly below the wood surface so you don't really feel them. The wood is threaded, so the set screw just holds the wood in place. There is no way to put pressure on the wood, so there is no chance of cracking the wood especially with the hole close to the end. It is how I envisioned the cover plate to be fastened to the wood body.
I need to get some buttons finished so you can get more Elite units completed. I have a feeling you will be selling quite a few based on how much I am liking the Elite. Everyone is going to love it.



lbeliteproto.jpg
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Thanks so much for the Lil' Bud Elite prototype @Bravesst. I have been enjoying it so much. Well done. The performance is just like an iHeat on a mod box w/ a DNA75C board. So nice to have all of these options available. The puff info screen is quite helpful. I like to adjust the atomizer resistance so that the wattage shown on the puff info screen is very close to the wattage value set in the temperature control mode. If the wattage is higher, I adjust the atomizer resistance down to the next value and try again until I get the display wattage close to the set wattage. The green line is the wattage value which does start very high for less than one second (the vertical lines are one second apart). The blue line is voltage and the red line is temperature. The game has certainly been changed with the Elite.
I replaced the cross slot head screws with set screws which are set slightly below the wood surface so you don't really feel them. The wood is threaded, so the set screw just holds the wood in place. There is no way to put pressure on the wood, so there is no chance of cracking the wood especially with the hole close to the end. It is how I envisioned the cover plate to be fastened to the wood body.
I need to get some buttons finished so you can get more Elite units completed. I have a feeling you will be selling quite a few based on how much I am liking the Elite. Everyone is going to love it.



lbeliteproto.jpg

And that is exactly why Alan got the second prototype. Following the simple instructions and I can't believe the size of the hits while being so cool. This really integrates the temp control element into the wire mesh coil. I wound up getting crazy good cool hits without stirring at 34 watts, 380 degrees, and 33 ohms, and my load is still green. WTF, no wonder I love testing the Elite, as I think I'm tapping into low temp super efficiency and me and my lungs are loving it.

Thanks Alan!
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Put in way too many hours today, and got a brand new Elite for my efforts. Here's what I accomplished.

1. Cover plate attachment - I've mastered the tapping holes in wood process, looks real nice, great for finishing, allows me to do so much more machine sanding in pre-assembly. You'll appreciate the round corners. The cover plate, in general, is becoming routine, except for one issue (see below item 3).
Nailed Down

2. Coil mounting / wiring - Once I get every pre-fabbed perfectly, it will literally fall together in the end process. The Elite is much more interior accessible than the Classic. I haven't build enough units yet to be automatic. I'm still thinking hard at each phase. Battery wires are easy, just leave a hair long. It's the heavy duty 14 gauge board / coil wires that need to pre arranged just right to make final assembly easier. The bottom cap gets installed last, over the board / coil wiring. It's virtually hollow, but there's lots of wiring in a small space. Thank God I have full access to everything, and once I'm happy with the wiring, I can install the cap. If everything is just the right side and bend, the cap will slide right on. I'm keeping the 14 gauge wires longer than they need to for the sake of keeping the board cool as possible. Not sure this is necessary, but it can't hurt and I have the room. With each build the wiring gets easier.

3. USB slot - Working way to hard here. I've managed to get pretty quick at all the other openings in the cover plat (4 holes / screen), but I need a new process for quickly and easily creating the USB slot. I think I'm going to switch to routing this hole once again. The slot is almost purely end grain, and might respond better to routing. The task needs to be made easier.

All in all, working with the DNA board is a pleasure. It's heavy duty, easy to solder to and wire up, and we all know how it performs. I have a feeling, once I start producing lots of Elites, I'm going to enjoy the process. I know I'm enjoying learning and using the software.
 

nonbeliever

Well-Known Member
3. USB slot - Working way to hard here. I've managed to get pretty quick at all the other openings in the cover plat (4 holes / screen), but I need a new process for quickly and easily creating the USB slot. I think I'm going to switch to routing this hole once again. The slot is almost purely end grain, and might respond better to routing. The task needs to be made easier.

Amazing how quickly the Elite has come together. Outstanding!

Could you stamp the usb hole out instead of drilling/routing?
 

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
Thanks for the suggestions. I worked out some stuff on this rebuild. Notice the fit of the cover pate, totally flush, nice feel. Set screws look pretty cool. This guy still needs some buffing up, but looking good.

20190210-184104.jpg

There is a boat-load of honey in that glass my friend. A few minutes sitting in some 1/2 & 1/2 on low heat will give you a really wonderful buzz.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I figured out another tweak to make final assembly less fussy. The wires that come from the coil get ring connectors attached, as do the coil wires from the board. In the wire box screw connections are made. I've been leaving the coil wires about an inch long, but I think I'm going to shorten, putting the ring connector closer to the wood. Small change, but something that'll make final assembly easier. If those two touch, the board prevents a short, but rather resistance drops as there is no current flow through the coil. The shorter those are, the less work it is to keep them nice and neat and at a distance from each other. Another major step.

As far as the cover plate, the USB slot is now being routed. Much less fussing around, and a much neater hole.

I've been going back and forth between modes. Sometimes, I just wanna milk a load on 28 watts, and just bump it up at the end. Nice simple, super long session.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
So much figured out here. I've been hitting on this old school, 18 mm full hit, short stem. Due to the need for a couple of mm's on the board side, the unit is a hair longer, and I'm able to sink the tube deeper, for an overall shorter unit. I've rotated the coil, and this allowed a much more logical final wiring process, avoiding all sorts of hassles, making the final assembly very smooth. The board actually simplifies final assembly, but there are just more processes involved with the addition of the board before you can get there. I've said before, the Elite feels like I'm building two units, then marrying them up at the final assembly. High tech meets vintage craftsmanship.

Here, I'm working with straight up Watts, starting at 29, bumping up to 32. Feels so wide open with the unlined tube. Nice change, and works well with the Elite. I'm loving the control here.

I'm in a pretty good position to start production, just waiting on a few supplies. I'm gonna take a week and finish my February batch of Classics, and keep testing this bad boy.

My New DD
20190212-175220.jpg
 
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Tube is more centered, but sill not dead center. It's obviously right above the coil. The bottom cap comes off without disassembling the unit. I can actually run it with no bottom cap (it's like a car hood) makes for easy upgrades / checks / fixes. Rotating the coil 90 degrees is turning out to be quite a positive upgrade for both mechanical and connectivity reasons, as well as keeping the board as cool as possible. This unit is not a prototype, but as I take a huge sigh of accomplishment, I'd like to say.

Ahh... done and done
20190213-065756.jpg
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
The performance is just like an iHeat on a mod box w/ a DNA75C board. So nice to have all of these options available.

Awesome just what I was hoping and expected to hear. Without having the 510 connection in there it might even work better last longer.

The elite is looking sexy and my pocket is itching.

Shouldn't be too long now. Really have high hopes for this one. Sounds like its living up to the goal.

You really have 3 different experiences with the DNAc chip.

First can use Manually in wattage mode with a high temperature cutoff.
You have temperature controlled that works excellent once its dialed in.
Replay more to create the same hit signature. Not really temperature control it just records and replays a hit you liked. Can see some possible uses for flavor chasing. I tend ramp up the temperature and found replay a hassle with my vaping style but others love the ease of it.
 
HerbieVonVapster,
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
First let's answered the center tube question. My goal was to make the board compartment only as big as necessary, which I pretty much did with maybe a mm to spare, and that serves to keep things cooler. It 14 mm deep. The battery compartment depth is super set in stone, can't get any more shallow than 26 mm, with the center groove for wires. So, since we can't shrink the battery side, we'd have to increase the board side by 12 more mm's. That would result in an 82 mm wide unit, too big to get your hand around. It's dead center over the coil.

Wattage mode is very simple. The last couple of days I've taken a stock tube, micro loaded, started at 27.5 watts and just sipped. Even the first hit is pretty instant vapor (pre heat is still working here). To me this is a taste lovers heaven. I have to be conscious of what's going on, as combustion is theoretically possible, but pretty difficult at 27.5 watts. I get lots and lots of sips / hits , even lightly loaded, only bumping wattage when the vapor production slows. I think the wide open draw helps this method, because it quickly pulls all the heat off the coil, and at low wattage, it works well. I haven't tried an unlined tube on anything else yet because the sessions are just so pleasant and so simple.

TC mode is definitely more complicated, and Replay mode has it's place, but it's not the panacea, mostly because the contents of the tube changes so much from hit to hit, not like an oil cartridge, which I guess it was designed for.

The other thing that affects everything you do in such a big way is set ohms. The unit will measure the ohms for you, and you can use that, but with @Alan's experimentation, this can be manipulated with positive results. I'm on .34 right now, and my cold ohm measurement was .32.

The 90 degree coil shift has been a windfall, solving multiple issues. I'm not 100% sure why, but my board has been running nice and cool, as compared to the first 3 prototypes which were running a few degrees hotter with many hits. Maybe it's the wide open mouthed tube pulling all that heat off so fast that just works well with the regulated session the Elite offers.

No work on the Elite side today, got about 10 Classics in various states of assembly that are my February Batch. I'm hoping to get a few Elite orders into that batch as well. I think my Elite batches will be small at first, maybe 6 at a time. Much more manageable that way.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Good morning Elitists! It's just past 6 AM, and I'm hooked on 27.5 watts and .34 ohms, with a wide open 18 mm short tube for full suction. All cooling is controlled by the board, so the short wide open tube is super smooth. My unit barely gets warm to the touch, there is such an efficient use of energy. I can bump up to 30 watts to turn this load into dust, good to the very last drop. Herbal efficiency is top notch, as is taste and effect. I wonder if the people over at Escribe ever dreamed their device would work so well with a 3-D coil and dry herb.

Sometimes I have to pinch myself, but I'm honored to be offering the first, on demand, pure convection portable dry vaporizer with a state of the art, DNA75 color control board that's beautifully housed in a totally non toxic, all wood form, to this awesome community.
Thanks for the opportunity!
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I realize that @Alan and I have the only units, but that's gotta change ASAP. Let's just say there are rave reviews all around. No mystery why it came together so fast, and worked out so well - the vape guru's brain child, tweaked to the highest level possible. We blew past the prototype phase and into full production pretty quick. That was based on the reliability of the Escribe board and the already super tweaked Classic. Once I nailed down the cover plate, the unit just fell into place.

Here's what you can expect, and why I'm so excited to get my first units shipped. I'm gonna be a busy, busy guy.
  • Instant vapor, I mean literally 3 seconds from button depression to inhalation
  • Big, smooth hits with that pure convection taste
  • Multiple ways to use and customize, yet super user friendly
  • Extreme product and battery efficient, even during heavy testing
  • Reliability, as the board is not some delicate electronics, but rather heavy duty
  • Purity with the same all wood vapor path with no glue, adhesives, chemicals of any kind
  • The same craftsmanship and beauty you've come to expect from Vapwood
 
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