Discontinued The Persei Vaporizer for herbs and concentrates.

[bdmonkeyj3w]

I would invest in the Nibbler XL but I know that within the week that I get it, it will break.
Someone will drop it or something will happen to it so I'd like to know of a cheaper alternative too, if anyone would like to share theirs.

I have no alternative to suggest, but i have seen some... that being said, i break glass all-the-time. Its one of the reasons i switched to vapes then found herc. I bought a nibbler a couple months after and it is solid! I know people have broken them, but mines survived some shit. Get a small tack on bumper and you wont have to worry. Mines chipped for sure, but still golden... ehhhh dont wanna jump through hopes to post pics, but if you wanna see how abusive i am to my glass i can send you a pic...

 

[user411]

yea when I turn mine on it defaults to 1
when I touch the leads together it goes crazy but eventually stops at 0.8-1.0
then if I assemble my sr74x completely it'll be between 2.9-3.0 sometimes 2.9-3.1

k3nd4l - I just went through all this for the first time with a SR-74x and had a bit to learn. When you get a 1 on your ohm meter like that it means there is no conductivity through the Hercules (the circuit is not complete and will not carry electricity). You need to end up with a non 1 reading by the time you're done.

Fixing the issue came down to assembly technique and positioning the rod for me. I found that with my SR-74x (which may not be the same as the modern version/I may have an upgraded SR-74) the rod tip in the concentrate chamber needs to be just past flush with the top of a single titanium oil coil for it to seat properly into the center pin in the lower chamber. This leads to a lot of the second metal band on the ceramic rod being exposed in the lower chamber, much more than the v3 PDF manual indicates.

It took a lot of trial and error to find the correct place for the rod. One other thing I noticed was the center screw (conductor) on the heater core lower section (that screws into the bottom insulator) was not always making contact with the bottom insulator center pin properly. Turning the screw out just a bit corrected the issue.

 

[k3nd4l]

k3nd4l - I just went through all this for the first time with a SR-74x and had a bit to learn. When you get a 1 on your ohm meter like that it means there is no conductivity through the Hercules (the circuit is not complete and will not carry electricity). You need to end up with a non 1 reading by the time you're done.

Fixing the issue came down to assembly technique and positioning the rod for me. I found that with my SR-74x (which may not be the same as the modern version/I may have an upgraded SR-74) the rod tip in the concentrate chamber needs to be just past flush with the top of a single titanium oil coil for it to seat properly into the center pin in the lower chamber. This leads to a lot of the second metal band on the ceramic rod being exposed in the lower chamber, much more than the v3 PDF manual indicates.

It took a lot of trial and error to find the correct place for the rod. One other thing I noticed was the center screw (conductor) on the heater core lower section (that screws into the bottom insulator) was not always making contact with the bottom insulator center pin properly. Turning the screw out just a bit corrected the issue.

I only get the 1 when nothing is touching the leads of the multimeter. when I touch it to my sr74x I get a reading of 3.0/2.9. I figured just subtract the original 1 reading from the 3.0 and I have 2.0 which is between the 1.9-2.4. is this not right ?

also I can't have the rod stick out further into the bottom chamber because my retaining collar doesn't want to hold tight enough the rod ends up pushed back in so that none of the 2nd metal band shows no matter what..

I did end up just dry firing it to see what would happen and the rod got red and burned off whatever was left from factory + I'm guessing the iso and water. so I'm starting to just assume it's set up right ?

 

[user411]

I only get the 1 when nothing is touching the leads of the multimeter. when I touch it to my sr74x I get a reading of 3.0/2.9. I figured just subtract the original 1 reading from the 3.0 and I have 2.0 which is between the 1.9-2.4. is this not right ?

also I can't have the rod stick out further into the bottom chamber because my retaining collar doesn't want to hold tight enough the rod ends up pushed back in so that none of the 2nd metal band shows no matter what..

I did end up just dry firing it to see what would happen and the rod got red and burned off whatever was left from factory + I'm guessing the iso and water. so I'm starting to just assume it's set up right ?

I didn't understand you correctly to begin with - I saw a "1" ohm meter readings after reassembling my Herc and had to figure out where the rod belonged to correct it. The same reading is on the ohm meter by default to say "no circuit".

It sounds like there is definitely an issue with the rod staying in place on your Herc, but at the same time it seems to be working ok based on your test. You should see it heat to red like that after a few seconds. If you tried, could you move the rod with tweezers when it's assembled into the top chamber? If so, that seems like a real issue either with assembly or the spec of what you got.

You don't need to do any math to read the ohm meter, sounds like it's reading the resistance properly. I know based on assembly my readings vary.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

yea when I turn mine on it defaults to 1

when I touch the leads together it goes crazy but eventually stops at 0.8-1.0
then if I assemble my sr74x completely it'll be between 2.9-3.0 sometimes 2.9-3.1

If the leads reads .8-1.0 when touched together and the herc reads 2.9-3.0 then you have to subtract the .8-1.0 from it.

So this means the actual reading of your herc is around 1.9-2.1 ohms.

Yours is correct.


Now

@Tstat I think you said you are using the W9tech Tester, and it reads 3.1 ohms, try lowering the rod a little bit more and see if that reduces the ohms, also the SR74x that we currently sell comes with the sR71 bottom adapter so this might be in need of an adjustment.


I also took 10 different Hercules SR74x from different shipment packages and tested them and they all read 2.1 ohms.

 

[Tstat]

Thanks! What exactly does it mean when the ohms are higher? What is the reason to try to get it lower? The unit is working great at 3.0...

 

[ED421]

So, I've read this thread for quite a while now and I don't remember anyone else with my current issue. It seems that the very bottom of my Okeanos (the plate that the kiss cart screws into) is not working. I have three different kiss carts that work perfectly when screwed directly into my Persei but as soon as I put the Okeanos base on, none of the carts will fire. The button isn't blinking, it just lights up like it's working normally. I cleaned the base as thoroughly as I could with Q-Tips and ISO but that didn't help, and I'm hesitant to soak the whole thing in ISO or boil it. Anyone have any similar issues with the Okeanos? Any thoughts on possible solutions? I'm about to go open a ticket but I thought I would consult the collective wisdom of this thread.

 

[kindbeats]

Thanks! What exactly does it mean when the ohms are higher? What is the reason to try to get it lower? The unit is working great at 3.0...

The higher the ohms, the greater the resistance of the cart. Hence, less ohms means faster and larger clouds, however the chance to burn your oil also goes up.

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

The higher the ohms, the greater the resistance of the cart. Hence, less ohms means faster and larger clouds, however the chance to burn your oil also goes up.

Actually the higher the number the lower the resistance and less heat.

Resistance is what creates heat.

So the lower the number higher the resistance which the result is more heat.


Think if it as rubbing your hands together, increasing the pressure which increases resistance creates more heat, but slowing the movement down, but when you reduce the pressure creates it crease less heat but faster the movement.

 

[spoutti]

So, I've read this thread for quite a while now and I don't remember anyone else with my current issue. It seems that the very bottom of my Okeanos (the plate that the kiss cart screws into) is not working. I have three different kiss carts that work perfectly when screwed directly into my Persei but as soon as I put the Okeanos base on, none of the carts will fire. The button isn't blinking, it just lights up like it's working normally. I cleaned the base as thoroughly as I could with Q-Tips and ISO but that didn't help, and I'm hesitant to soak the whole thing in ISO or boil it. Anyone have any similar issues with the Okeanos? Any thoughts on possible solutions? I'm about to go open a ticket but I thought I would consult the collective wisdom of this thread.

That was my problem with my ti globe coil. I used an 18650 instead of the 18350 and problem solved.

 

[mixchu69]

Hey spoutti,

How long did it take you to learn the Hercules?

 

[Tstat]

Thanks for the infos! So, it's resistance that is being measured...

 

[Frederick McGuire]

Actually the higher the number the lower the resistance and less heat.

Resistance is what creates heat.

So the lower the number higher the resistance which the result is more heat.


Think if it as rubbing your hands together, increasing the pressure which increases resistance creates more heat, but slowing the movement down, but when you reduce the pressure creates it crease less heat but faster the movement.

I don't really understand that...

I only did 2 years of simple electronics at high school, but isn't ohms essentially a measurement of resistance?
More ohms = more resistance?

I understand the concept that more resistance = more heat, since the excess energy has to be lost somewhere, so that gets converted to heat, but I thought it was working sorta differently with w9 gear.

I had always pictured it along the following lines:
The "wire" (wire in a kiss cart, ceramic rod in a herc) can allow X current to flow through it without heating up, and any current in excess of that gets "lost" as heat energy.

The battery puts out more current than the "wire" can handle without heating.
By adding some resistance, we are fine tuning how much current gets to the "wire".
The lower the resistance, the less the current is being restricted, so the "wire" will heat up more.
The higher the resistance, the less current we are allowing to the "wire", so there's less excess current to be offloaded as heat?


I'm just really confused by the statement

Actually the higher the number the lower the resistance and less heat.

Because its kinda the opposite of what I thought...

Can anyone explain the theory behind it a bit better?

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@Frederick McGuire what im explaining is the higher the number = less resistance.

Example.

2.4 ohm at 3.7v produces 5.7 watts but when using 3.0 ohms at 3.7v it produces 4.56 watts.

The resistance number is reversed. So higher the number lower the resistance with the set voltage.

Lower the number higher the resistance.

 

[Patrick Hughes]

@Frederick McGuire what im explaining is the higher the number = less resistance.

Example.

2.4 ohm at 3.7v produces 5.7 watts but when using 3.0 ohms at 3.7v it produces 4.56 watts.

The resistance number is reversed. So higher the number lower the resistance with the set voltage.

Lower the number higher the resistance.

@Tstat yeah. And i bet those are 7.4 v rods, so the 2.4 is like 23 watts and the 3 ohm is like 18 (I think) and that's why it still performs. 18 is still pretty powerful for what its worth imo and beyond the range of a lot of vapes, but if you tighten that collar some I bet that resistance will be closer to 2 ohm.

 

[Severmore]

@Frederick McGuire what im explaining is the higher the number = less resistance.

Example.

2.4 ohm at 3.7v produces 5.7 watts but when using 3.0 ohms at 3.7v it produces 4.56 watts.

The resistance number is reversed. So higher the number lower the resistance with the set voltage.

Lower the number higher the resistance.

This is confusing....higher ohms = greater resistance

However, with a greater resistance and a fixed battery voltage, the only parameter to decrease is current and thus power. V=IR

If voltage is fixed by the battery @ 3.7 V and one has a 2.4 ohm resistance coil, then the current is 3.7/2.4 or 1.54 amps and the power (P=IV) is 5.7watts=3.7*1.54

Now increase the resistance to 3ohms...the current drops to 3.7/3 or 1.23 amps and the power supplied is 4.55 watts.

@THC SCIENTIFIC, your numbers are correct, but the explanation is slightly off...hope this helps


I guess it boils down to "the higher the resistance (number in ohms), the lesser the resulting current/power supplied"

 

[DaNi_DuB]

I don't really understand that...

I only did 2 years of simple electronics at high school, but isn't ohms essentially a measurement of resistance?
More ohms = more resistance?

I understand the concept that more resistance = more heat, since the excess energy has to be lost somewhere, so that gets converted to heat, but I thought it was working sorta differently with w9 gear.

I had always pictured it along the following lines:
The "wire" (wire in a kiss cart, ceramic rod in a herc) can allow X current to flow through it without heating up, and any current in excess of that gets "lost" as heat energy.

The battery puts out more current than the "wire" can handle without heating.
By adding some resistance, we are fine tuning how much current gets to the "wire".
The lower the resistance, the less the current is being restricted, so the "wire" will heat up more.
The higher the resistance, the less current we are allowing to the "wire", so there's less excess current to be offloaded as heat?


I'm just really confused by the statement

Because its kinda the opposite of what I thought...

Can anyone explain the theory behind it a bit better?

Picture a wall with you on one side & a huge fire on the other. Think of the wall's thickness as "resistance". A thicker wall means less heat gets transferred to the other side. More resistance = less heat. Lower # = more heat

Edit: Never mind I'm high & probably wrong

 

[notoriousLrg]

what is the outside diameter of the w9 SR74 coil? The storz bickel crafty liquid pads work well with concentrate in the whip of my desktop, but they are SS and i might want to opt for TI. thx

 

[spoutti]

Hey spoutti,

How long did it take you to learn the Hercules?

Still learning . I have about 7 sessions overall so far. I think im getting good at not melting all my concentrate in the bottom chamber now. The taste is awesome. I have to work on the drawing tech. I get bigger/smoother clouds with my 7.4v kiss atm.

Where most others just slowly pump with their lungs, i can only handle wimpy clouds that way (ecigs, solo, and now the kiss cart). Too harsh. I pump with my mouth, and then swallow my mouthfull of vapor like you would with a drink with a straw; nature opens the right hole when I swallow. I can inhale monster clouds that way. I have yet tailored that drawing tech with the herc's airflow resistance and cooling hits needs, but I feel I can do much better.

With practice and fc, we will master the herc @mixchu69 . Keep us posted with your progress!

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

ok guys quick video of the touch button top.

 

[quader]

@THC SCIENTIFIC nice!

I'm sending in a v3 top that burnt in less than 24 hours of use. Does that mean I'll be getting a v4 replacement?

 

[THC SCIENTIFIC]

@THC SCIENTIFIC nice!

I'm sending in a v3 top that burnt in less than 24 hours of use. Does that mean I'll be getting a v4 replacement?

To upgrade to the v4 there is a $10 service fee. Or we can repair your top and send it back. Submit a ticket and our CS team will guide you.

 

[quader]

To upgrade to the v4 there is a $10 service fee. Or we can repair your top and send it back. Submit a ticket and our CS team will guide you.

Cool. I already have a ticket up but I can note that I'd like to do the upgrade there.

 

[k3nd4l]

so I just got my 2 18350 aw IMR in. also just ordered 2 efest v2 18650 (supposed to be better than aw 18650) also ordered a 2014 nitecore i2 charger to replace my w9 charger.

I think many pages(like 400) back I read someone was using the sony vct4 18650 flat tops ? just wondering if that person sees this if they can tell me how those are holding up.

since I plan on using my sr74 at 3.7 & have no plans of grabbing the core(I'm mobile 95% of the time) I'm stocking up on a lot of batteries right now.

EDIT: @THC SCIENTIFIC wasn't w9 called delta9 before !? I only ask because my friend just sent me a pic of her bong that says delta9 in big letters along the side. didn't know you guys made bongs

 

[Fredster951]

so I just got my 2 18350 aw IMR in. also just ordered 2 efest v2 18650 (supposed to be better than aw 18650) also ordered a 2014 nitecore i2 charger to replace my w9 charger.

I think many pages(like 400) back I read someone was using the sony vct4 18650 flat tops ? just wondering if that person sees this if they can tell me how those are holding up.

since I plan on using my sr74 at 3.7 & have no plans of grabbing the core(I'm mobile 95% of the time) I'm stocking up on a lot of batteries right now.

EDIT: @THC SCIENTIFIC wasn't w9 called delta9 before !? I only ask because my friend just sent me a pic of her bong that says delta9 in big letters along the side. didn't know you guys made bongs

I use sony vtc5 18650 on my persei and 8. Works perfect. Not sure about vtc4. But I would stay away from flat top. Get a VTC5, works excellent.