'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
brainiac said:
How 'infrared' the bulbs actually are I don't know. If that's just a halo bulb with red glass does that make it IR?
Click to expand...

Even though people frequently talk about IR, it’s worth keeping in mind that IR doesn’t heat the air, thus serving little value in a convection vape. And while IR is technically always present, to actually vaporize via IR takes considerable heat energy. IR is also very localized heating and subject to the inverse-square law.

To vape with IR is like using a toaster, that radiant energy only cooks the very top of the load.
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
invertedisdead said:
IR is also very localized heating and subject to the inverse-square law.
Click to expand...

It's the same for visible light (and all other electromagnetic radiation) though, yet halogen vapes do work pretty well in practice.

It's I believe less efficient than having say a heating element directly exposed to the air-path, but the benefit is that there's no question whether you're vaping small bits of your heater over time or not, since it's encased in glass (let's keep aside the materials safety questions around the bulb holder, the leads and base and eventual glass coatings etc)

For sure there must be some amount of direct radiation heating if the load can "see" the heater, but overall I think it's mostly a process of heat transfer to the glass part of the bulb itself and to its direct surroundings (aka the heat-sink or heat reservoir, collectively) which absorb the radiation and then give back the stored heat to the passing air via convection.

invertedisdead said:
To vape with IR is like using a toaster, that radiant energy only cooks the very top of the load.
Click to expand...

But the top of the load then transfers some of the received heat via conduction deeper down the bowl. In the same way that a ceramic conduction oven only heats the material touching its walls initially, yet you still end up with a pretty uniform ABV at the end (I'd say even more uniform than with convection vapes as the entire height of the bowl is heated)
 
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invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
KeroZen said:
It's the same for visible light (and all other electromagnetic radiation) though, yet halogen vapes do work pretty well in practice.

It's I believe less efficient than having say a heating element directly exposed to the air-path, but the benefit is that there's no question whether you're vaping small bits of your heater over time or not, since it's encased in glass (let's keep aside the materials safety questions around the bulb holder, the leads and base and eventual glass coatings etc)

For sure there must be some amount of direct radiation heating if the load can "see" the heater, but overall I think it's mostly a process of heat transfer to the glass part of the bulb itself and to its direct surroundings (aka the heat-sink or heat reservoir, collectively) which absorb the radiation and then give back the stored heat to the passing air via convection.



But the top of the load then transfers some of the received heat via conduction deeper down the bowl. In the same way that a ceramic conduction oven only heats the material touching its walls initially, yet you still end up with a pretty uniform ABV at the end (I'd say even more uniform than with convection vapes as the entire height of the bowl is heated)
Click to expand...



I tried making an IR based vape using a torch + quartz to simulate vaping from the sun with a magnifying glass, and it could vape via IR, but the temperatures needed to get that much emitted heat always made for a dark roast with kind of a strange toasty flavor. Ultimately I realized it was still working mostly on convection as IR only really cooks the top layer of herb in my experience. Plus to produce emitted heat at vaping temps with IR, the whole device was very, very hot. If you heat and don’t inhale you can toast just the top layer. I don’t think it’s heating up much of the surrounding herb like a conduction vape though, but maybe my version just went too fast; or wasn’t optimized enough at the bowl size for that experience.
 
brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
As I said earlier how 'IR' the bulbs actually are is uncertain. Pure infrared is beyond the visible spectrum - so it's clearly not pure.

Yew-IR-glow-1.jpg

Certainly, if the glass is red then that will restrict other wavelengths but damping down the visible ones is actually quite useful in this application.

Prior to building the yew unit I took some temperature readings with an IR bulb and a standard one in a test setup. Please excuse the clutter.

test-IR-bulb.jpg

Here you can see the thermometer reading about 50C or about 122F at 10v and 7.6w. The reading itself is ofc meaningless as this is not how a vape works in practice but significantly, when I swapped the bulb for a standard one I got a similar reading. This is obviously not a laboratory-standard test - there are too many uncontrolled variables but it suggests broadly similar outputs.

The vendor (Milbloon Lighting Store) on AliExpress is suspiciously vague on the details:

Model : G4
Type : Lighting halogen tungsten bulb
Power 10W
Protection level: A
Rated voltage: 12 (V)
Glass bulb outer diameter: 10 (mm)
Length: 33 (mm)
Life expectancy: 2000 (h)
product contains:
G4 12V 10W infrared light bulb 10PCS

And that's all you get.

The 'IR' yew log seems to work pretty much the same as my standard halo units but I've got some maple dowel blanks ready to build so I'll make one standard and one IR - and record the ABV. That should give us a clearer picture.

:peace:
 
invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I like to use a cotton swab to check IR, if the swab achieves discoloration without any direct contact, than the IR is a significant enough factor. I did some desktop experiments like that. IIRC it took being almost 1000F (although my design is heated externally which reduces efficiency) to emit IR at vaping temps. I think when IR is a goal you want kind of an inefficient system to keep the temperature gradient more balanced when you do add in convection. A system which is too efficient will be more likely to reach combustion temps trying to heat the air before considerable IR is produced.
 
brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
Abysmal Vapor said:
Nice work! It is first time i am seeing red glass bulbs,what brand are they.I know Osram have ones with IR coating,it is just not red,it is supposed to reflect back heat on the coil and make it shine 30% more for the same wattage. While here i think it is more of IR filter,which is also great, cause it filters most of spectrum which is most harmful for the eye,and also increase the heat output,kind of like frosted capsules. Also those thick pins are great,looks like they are covered with Niobium like the osram ones to prevent oxidation.
Btw do you do those logs on a lathe, or you are just sanding them down to shape ?
Click to expand...

Hi AV - many thanks.
The bulbs come from an AliExpress vendor and don't appear to have a brand. I used Milbloon but a more diligent search shows up significantly cheaper sellers. As you say, the visible light they put out is definitely more user-friendly than the standard halo bulb. That warm red glow at the base of the heater well is imho a huge plus for the IR unit. The thick 0.8mm pins are something of a mixed blessing. Functionally good but the sockets seem to be made for the more standard 0.6mm (I use Sinolec with German recognised VDE certification). So the fit is very tight and makes replacing the bulb more difficult - perhaps an issue for an end-user. Certainly these's more testing to be done but I'm presently inclined to build a few more units with these bulbs.

I don't have a lathe atm but we moved house last year and one of our new neighbours has a lathe and has offered me some tuition. Most of my logs are Rustics and this defines my preferred direction. But despite living in a very rural area the raw materials are not abundant. As a result I've been working on a batch of 2" (50.8mm) diameter dowel units in various wood types so, yes with those it's drilling and sanding.

:peace:
 
S

sweepsLoy

Well-Known Member
Hey all- longtime lurker here- I just wanted to thank you all for the guidance of this thread and to show off a little of the results.

-24v ceramic running at 12v
-SS tubing, washer and clips
-Reclaimed wood, stained naturally with tea, conditioned with beeswax
-Felt and cork coaster (I used gorilla glue because it has no off-gassing once its cured)
-2 drops of lead-free solder, used out of the air path
-butt connectors and glass bead insulators, just like you taught me ;)

https://imgur.com/CbS6FJ9
https://imgur.com/Z5nIAsc
 
H

HighVapeEnthusiast

Well-Known Member
Hey, allways want to show what I did with YOUR inspiration, @brainiac , @blokenoname and for shure all teh other log Vape builders at this Threath.
Really great masterminds working here, it´s a pleasure to see all this beautys!
And sorry for my bad english, coming from europe and try my best...:uhoh:

So I tried to upload some Images, but I don´t know how...
Am I just not able to do this right now?
Do I have to be a "well known member"?

Thnx Guys!

Edit:...insert Image! Sorry!!!:bang:


Edit2: I have to work with Imgur or sometihng like that, right?
Sorry, I´ll remove all the trash by time...:(
:peace:
 
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brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
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S

sweepsLoy

Well-Known Member
Brainiac! It's an honor to have you see it! Yes, I'm using glass tubes that fit over the heater. I didn't mean to misspeak, it's not a resistor but a 3d printer cart. similar to what you were suggesting a few pages back.

I'm super happy with the performance. I don't have a great water pipe to test with, but I'm happy with the glass straw. My only complaint is that if the temp is too high it can toast a little unevenly. But if I keep it slow and low it's all good. I like to really roast it!
 
H

HighVapeEnthusiast

Well-Known Member
H

HighVapeEnthusiast

Well-Known Member
O.K. I think it works right now?
So the litte mahagoni Log was made just with a drillpress.
And for sure the wood gets carring when turns to hot.

Now I get a cheap lath for trying some things an look if I get some fun with it.
I ever was a wood guy, so for now I can say, a better lath is "under construction" in future....:brow:
Here is my first lath Log, made from some stocked Firewood, wich I just take to try reasons.
But in the end it doesn´t turn out that bad I think....(sorry for not cleaning, it´s in use...:tup:):rockon:
https://imgur.com/a/ULF0p3j
And as I said guys, all my respect goes to you, really thanks!:bowdown:
I don´t try to sell or something, but somtimes vape building is as funny like using them for me, or do both together for sure!:lol:
But it´s really funny to give them for birthdays or as little presents for friends.
And there are so many options out there to build...:clap:
...like this little Guy, it´s a ti tube, taperd to 18mm wpa, 50W Bulb, filld up with rubys(normally:lol:, needet them for another Project...),

https://imgur.com/dTnjJuk

https://imgur.com/gnY86dl

Thanks Guys!
Hope for :peace:
 
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brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
That's some very interesting work there @HighVapeEnthusiast. You're clearly skilled on the lathe. A walkthrough on that top picture with the J hook would be great. And the heater cover on the lower two - tapered Ti - did you make it yourself? How is it fixed to the baseplate? Also, the 50w bulb is a serious heat source even with the rubies. I'd be keen to hear more about that.

Those logs look so well made @sweepsLoy. Much better than some of the early examples by @blokenoname and me. Does the one at the back have a recessed connector? And any more details on heater cover construction? The tea staining idea is great. There's plenty of hazel around here and it's good wood for logs but unfortunately it's totally underwhelming in appearance. I'll try staining some blanks I've got.
 
H

HighVapeEnthusiast

Well-Known Member
Hi @brainiac ,
brainiac said:
You're clearly skilled on the lathe.
Click to expand...
...men, you´re kidding me?:rolleyes:

Great to her that from someone like you, but I just copied and modified your really great builds in a way it works for me...


brainiac said:
A walkthrough on that top picture with the J hook would be great
Click to expand...
OK, I´ll do a try...
https://imgur.com/a/pfT0RVh
Diameter 50mm
High 110mm
Standard heatercover 45mm high
All I do is, I filled the heatercover with glassballs between bulb and top screen.
https://imgur.com/rqnVR8t
I can´t really compare it to other methodes, because I just do it this way, because I´ve got a lot glassballs in stock.
Also the stem is filled with maybe 25 3mm glasballs, filled between two screens for cooling.
This way the screen is really stable in the stem too.
https://imgur.com/zNNDdEk
The warterpipe adapter doesn´t come out so nice as you can see at the lower end.
The wood broke away by drilling it to the diameter of the smoothy straws, which were used there.
The wooden cover of the stem was made the same way as the TI taper, as i´ll say later...
brainiac said:
tapered Ti - did you make it yourself?
Click to expand...
...oh yes, I buyed a bunch of different diameter Ti Tubes from China, cut them with the Tube cutter as usual, (It´s not fun for sure and the tubecutter have to cry maybe...)
For the taper i took a massive woodpiece, drilled it to the inner diameter of the TI tube, (...a little bigger for a propper fit), hammered it to the tube and create the Taper "freestyle" by using old piles, sandpaper and a calipper...;-)

brainiac said:
How is it fixed to the baseplate?
Click to expand...
please don`t ask where I get the Base, it is a very solid steel Peace which fits perfect to the tube by hammering in.
Just found it in stock.
You know, I allways doing a lot of things whith my hands, so ovwer the years there is a lot of stuff coming together, as long as your wife don´t treat you....:lol:
brainiac said:
Also, the 50w bulb is a serious heat source even with the rubies.
Click to expand...
...yes, but to be honest and you can see at the Piucture, I take a peace of PEEK and placed it between wood and base Plate.
Otherwise the wood could really get to hot at this setup.
https://imgur.com/MFUkKwu
Also the tube is not completly filled wirth rubys, to remove some Heat from the bseplate.
But this way it works really fine. (I just have to do a terp torch clone, same way like this, that´s why the Rubys are gone right now...)

Hope there are not to many mistakes again!
Have a nice sunday out there, I´ll fire the grill now....
:rockon::nod:
 
underdog

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
HighVapeEnthusiast said:
Hi @brainiac ,

...men, you´re kidding me?:rolleyes:

Great to her that from someone like you, but I just copied and modified your really great builds in a way it works for me...



OK, I´ll do a try...
https://imgur.com/a/pfT0RVh
Diameter 50mm
High 110mm
Standard heatercover 45mm high
All I do is, I filled the heatercover with glassballs between bulb and top screen.
https://imgur.com/rqnVR8t
I can´t really compare it to other methodes, because I just do it this way, because I´ve got a lot glassballs in stock.
Also the stem is filled with maybe 25 3mm glasballs, filled between two screens for cooling.
This way the screen is really stable in the stem too.
https://imgur.com/zNNDdEk
The warterpipe adapter doesn´t come out so nice as you can see at the lower end.
The wood broke away by drilling it to the diameter of the smoothy straws, which were used there.
The wooden cover of the stem was made the same way as the TI taper, as i´ll say later...

...oh yes, I buyed a bunch of different diameter Ti Tubes from China, cut them with the Tube cutter as usual, (It´s not fun for sure and the tubecutter have to cry maybe...)
For the taper i took a massive woodpiece, drilled it to the inner diameter of the TI tube, (...a little bigger for a propper fit), hammered it to the tube and create the Taper "freestyle" by using old piles, sandpaper and a calipper...;-)


please don`t ask where I get the Base, it is a very solid steel Peace which fits perfect to the tube by hammering in.
Just found it in stock.
You know, I allways doing a lot of things whith my hands, so ovwer the years there is a lot of stuff coming together, as long as your wife don´t treat you....:lol:

...yes, but to be honest and you can see at the Piucture, I take a peace of PEEK and placed it between wood and base Plate.
Otherwise the wood could really get to hot at this setup.
https://imgur.com/MFUkKwu
Also the tube is not completly filled wirth rubys, to remove some Heat from the bseplate.
But this way it works really fine. (I just have to do a terp torch clone, same way like this, that´s why the Rubys are gone right now...)

Hope there are not to many mistakes again!
Have a nice sunday out there, I´ll fire the grill now....
:rockon::nod:
Click to expand...

Nice write up and pics.. :tup:

It's so cool to see the different ways everyone makes their own design that's best suited to their skills, materials/equipment and needs then makes it happen. Very nice! Nicer than my earliest attempts... :cheers:
 
brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
Exactly what Dave says - @HighVapeEnthusiast and the heater covers shows you've got good metalwork skills too. Don't worry too much about appearance with your first few logs (though these are pretty good, anyway). Properly functional units are the first and most important step. Making them look nice can wait 'til later.

Keep up the good work and keep us updated.
:peace:
 
brainiac

brainiac

log wrangler
This is probably the most interesting piece from my recent output. Local oak taken from a fallen branch.

Twin-Spouts-s.jpg

​
It had been down for a while - not so long as to rot but long enough to become insect real estate.

Oak-Spout-bug-tracks-both-s.jpg

​
I think they're a wood-boring solitary wasp. Anyway, I kept a bit of the side branch for the jack connector and fitted it with the trusty old 25J20RE.

Oak-Spout-stem-2-s.jpg

​
That's an oak DD stem made from a section of dowel and a pick/tamp with blackthorn twig stem and replaceable bamboo tip.

Good logging all.
:peace:
 
A

AVBCreator

New Member
Hi All,

First time logger - long time lurker.
I have bought these along with various sizes of tubes to play around with some designs.
The cartridge heaters I am starting with are pictured below.
White wires coming straight off the cartridge heater. Some kind of metal crimper to some red wires. Covered by the red heat shielding.
What is the latest on making these somewhat safe? I have read in a previous post of someone essentially setting theirs up in a similar way, so I am wondering if these are good to go, need modifications or should be replaced.
I am also planning on grabbing some of the higher quality sinolec ceramic bulb holders for some halogen experiments, but I have found them next to impossible to source where I am located.

1665394986482.jpg


Also planning on using some ruby balls in the heater tube - I will use a basket screen on top to secure the balls/protect the hands from hot elements but what are people using to secure the balls from the heater side to prevent them from falling out? I would use another screen with holes for the wires maybe, but am concerned with the raw wires of the screen damaging the wires of the cartridge heater over time.
 
blokenoname

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Evening ! 😁👋
Long time, no see!

As I see, folks are still doing some happy & productive loggin, which is great 🪵 😃💨👍... and also many thanks to @brainiac and Dave @underdog for answering the many questions and helping people out here, while I took a little creative pause 😊🙏

Just wanted to share some pics of recent projects, I'm fiddling with 😁

Stumbling across the Couch Log recently (apparently from a fellow German Log maker), it's core design reminded me, that I always wanted to do an additional heater cover/core design , that's more accommodating/optimized for use with the larger glass stems & GonGs (due to setting the heater higher up within the core and so reducing distance to the load), that go over the heater (E-Nano) or on top of it (Woodscents), rather than into the core, like with my now standard classic 3/8" core and the larger 11mm core, that accepts the Dynavap tips and the Arizer Air/Solo glass. So I borrowed some ideas from the afore mentioned vapes and used some 9mm OD tubing for the new core, which easily allows to set in a short peace of 8mm OD tubing at its top, creating a little step, your Dynavaps tips can connect to (like with the Woodscents) and which also holds the screen.
The larger, 9mm OD, part of the core fits neatly the glass stems & GonGs, I cut from some of the nice 12mm/9mm OD/ID exact fit lab glass tubing, I got me several years ago, when I was still using a 9mm core with my earlier Misty versions, instead of the 3/8" tubing, I'm using lately.
Also accepts my DIY 10mm OD ss tips slipping over it, which basically are just 3 pieces of tubing set into each other : 8mm tube forms the back end connecting to the stem; 9mm piece of tubing forms the chamber and holds the basket screen and the 10mm tubing forms the outer sleeve, which goes over the 9mm core 😊🙏


3/8" core and 11mm slip in core


New 9mm/8mm slip over core

Tried the new core in an older, battered beech body/unit first, which worked out fine 😁💨💨💨
... and then decided, that this type of core would go nicely with the ready made birch wood Rustic body, Brainiac provided me with some time ago 😃👍
So I made a new core for that yesterday (still missing the air intake slits).








Also playing around with some new designs for stems & adapters, as I found some nice bamboo straws recently, that were standardized to 12mm/8mm OD/ID and so would readily accept 8mm boro glass liners and ss/Dynavap and glass tips, coming with an 8mm backend 😃👍
Also recycled and modified an older Dynavap body in the process.
My approach got quite modular there, as nearly each part of one stem/adapter combines neatly with each other 😊






 
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