'The Misty Log' - DIY wooden Log Vaporizer

[blokenoname]

On a side note:

The shorter ones of the wooden ciggie holders I use for stems sometimes, make also very nice low budget 14mm WonG adapters, when cut at the desired length .
Cut it to a typically 14mm WPA length; widened its through hole to 5mm; widened its countersink to accept the 8mm backend of any DV or a standard 8mm Log vape tip, sanded it down, waxed & polished... and again added 2 tiny o-rings to make it seal within a 14mm joint





Side note II.
Got me a new DC 24V/12V/5V powerbank with 24.4Ah/82.8Wh.... which keeps your log running at a 7Wh max output for at least ~12 hours straight, while you can simultaneously load up your phone!

https://talentcell.com/lithium-ion-battery/24v/pb240a1.html

 

[blokenoname]

Evening

Just a bit of quick Square HI rebuilding over the WE so far.
As it's one of the earliest units, that still came with the 95J20RE ceramic resistor for a heater, I had already rebuilt it into a halo unit shortly after I got it a year or two ago... but as the bulb was failing now, I decided to install a cartridge heater instead, updating it to the HI's current standards. It also got a ss fine mesh 'poncho' covering the cartridge for extending the heater surface, that's already rolled up and pushed up into the basket/debris screen within the heater cover.



For tonight, we'll simply resort to some serious scientific testing then ... in a little 'contest of champions'



Also rigged up my first DIY j hook from a curved F14mm distilling adapter and a 12mm/9mm boro glass tube... just to see how useful they are. Commercial availability of ready made ones seem a bit lacking in good old Germany so far



Also found some promising looking basket/conical screens on Amazon, which due to lacking a solid rim might be more flexible in use with different bowl sizes, as their diameter and depth can be more easily adjusted with a bit of reshaping & cutting. Hopefully, they'll arrive by tomorrow

 

[darkstar72]

Evening

It also got a ss fine mesh 'poncho' covering the cartridge for extending the heater surface, that's already rolled up and pushed up into the basket/debris screen within the heater cover.

Does this make a difference? Could a layer of 3mm ruby balls above the cartridge heater work for thermal accumulation? I know longer heat up time but it may work to store heat. What are your thoughts?

 

[blokenoname]

Does this make a difference? Could a layer of 3mm ruby balls above the cartridge heater work for thermal accumulation? I know longer heat up time but it may work to store heat. What are your thoughts?

It indeed does!

The strip of rolled up stainless steel fine mesh forming the poncho around the cartridge extends the heater's surface right up to the inner wall of the heater cover, quickening & intensifying the conductive heat transfer to the steel tube itself, which serves as the only relevant part for heat retention here. The fine mesh fulfilling the exact same function there as the battery of small basket screens, @Alan stacks around his 7/16" Hi's cartridge heater and also around those in his various GTR units.
Same principle!; bit different execution!

The 'naked' 7.5W cartridge has merely a diameter of ~6.0mm and a length of ~20mm. That's fine for working within the smaller, more narrow 3/8" (9.5mm outer diameter) ss heater covers, which only have an inner diameter of ~8.0mm.
Using it within the 7/16" (11.1mm outer diameter) ss heater cover (or even larger glass heater covers) spotting a ~9.5mm inner diameter, the larger volume air flow can quickly overpower the small, 6.00mm diameter cartridge heater then.
Extending its diameter to a fitting 9.5mm & enlarging its heat transferring surface area with either a poncho of rolled up ss fine mesh or a battery of stacked ss basket screens solves that problem nicely & effectively, as the air must travel now through all the heated up layers of fine mesh or stacked screens first on its way to the load, while at the same time the steel tube itself (serving as kind of a heat storage battery) regains its thermal equilibrium more quickly after each hit, for the vape to be ready for its next hit.

It's a quite minimalistic & elegant solution, doing away with all the redundant thermal mass robbing heat from the equation, while still providing exactly enough heat & evenly heat distribution to allow you to even roast relatively large loads in a standard 14mm/18mm glass bowl quite efficiently now, as the GTR concept convincingly proves. That allows us to produce kind of a semi injector style vape experience, while still using a relatively small cartridge heater, limited to a 7.5W max output at 12V and Logs, that are lightweight as a feather, if need be

Having built some heavy duty injection style vapes myself (to rival my Herborizer XL & Ti), I'd clearly say, that a Log vape using the above mentioned principles can rival them only so far, as the heavy duty injectors use a) larger heaters with a higher wattage output (usually around 15W-20W) and b) a good deal more thermal mass for heat retention (be it simply more ss, Ti or adage of glass/ruby/quartz beads), that allows for projecting the heat over a greater distance from the heater port, while also adding a good deal more conduction to the bowl, which usually improves rapid vaporization.

Question is... do I want to go there with my Misty Log !?
As I'm personally more the micro doser anyway, I frankly have no great interest there and find Alan's concept of 'more heat at less wattage' far more appealing

Also, with the CouchLog and the MUSA V2 (halo), there are at least two other German country men & Log Makers, which with adding glass beads around the heater port, already produce what you've looking for

 

[darkstar72]

I'm personally more the micro doser anyway,

Yeah, I am a smaller dose user as well. A 3/8 heater cover HI and some butane vapes are it for me.

Your reply is very informative. So many variables. Glad to read about the evolution of the log from the traditional 3/8" (9.5mm) od diam steel heater cover to the 7/16" (11mm) size. A lot more airflow I assume. The basket screen hood on top of the heater for conducting heat to the ss cover makes a lot of sense.

I'm not sure I get the elegance of keeping the wattage output at or blow 7 watts. But I get and respect smaller diameter herb chambers for mini dosing.

 

[blokenoname]

I'm not sure I get the elegance of keeping the wattage output at or blow 7 watts. But I get and respect smaller diameter herb chambers for mini dosing.

Keeping the max wattage/heat output relatively low, prevents a good deal of heat related wood degradation, extends the life cycle of the Log and also allows for a relatively thin walled wooden shell, that doesn't get too hot to the touch.

By extending the heater's surface area, we basically just optimize the heat distribution across the whole diameter of the heater cover, which then allows for roasting bigger loads within larger diameter bowls

Left is the naked cartridge heater; middle pic shows Alan's method of extending the cartridge's surface by adding a battery of stacked screens; to the right you see my method, wrapping the cartridge into a poncho of 200 ss304 fine mesh foil.



This poncho can be extended to even fill and heat a much wider F18mm socket glass heater cover

 

[Big_Steve]

Question is... do I want to go there with my Misty Log !?
As I'm personally more the micro doser anyway, I frankly have no great interest there and find Alan's concept of 'more heat at less wattage' far more appealing

Also, with the CouchLog and the MUSA V2 (halo), there are at least two other German country men & Log Makers, which with adding glass beads around the heater port, already produce what you've looking for

I haven't seen the German made logs you mentioned above. Would you mind sharing the details please?

 

[Grass Yes]

I haven't seen the German made logs you mentioned above. Would you mind sharing the details please?

Couchlog:

CouchLog

The CouchLog is a full convection, log style vaporizer with a ceramic beads heater made in Germany. I simply love building vapes and want to thank the whole FC community for feeding me with inspiration and knowledge. What started as a DIY project escalated pretty quickly into this high-end...

fuckcombustion.com

Musa 2.0

MUSA Wooden Vape

I had missed this until now. Looks good...and is in Europe! but... why was the power socket moved to the bottom ?? It was the smartest way for my design concept. The Musa 2.0 is much smaller now, and wouldnt stand by itself. The housing serves now as handlebar, stand and it is beautiful to...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[blokenoname]

Evening, folks

Experimenting a bit more with the GTR concept last night, I found that the plain end 13mm/10mm OD/ID glass tube (that is, basically, just the plain little glass tube most traditional Logs with a 3/8" ss heater cover use for a direct draw stem) makes also a formidable glass heater cover!

While the injector style Logs using the male 18/26 & 14/23mm cone for a heater port, work certainly great on glass with any fitting standard GonG adapter, it's been always a challenge, to come up with some nicely fitting direct draw stems for them, that do not look silly & grotesquely out of proportion due to their large size in comparison to the small Log itself, when utilizing a female 18/26 socket for instance .
Also... a F18/26 socket isn't exactly suited for use as a micro dosing bowl, when you just want a nice, quick little toke from an 8mm ss or 10mm Dynavap tip in between, rather than a full session with large bowls, gluing you to the couch

So while it's great being able to do more heavy duty sessions with a log vape now, it always irked me a bit, that I can't have both (micro & macro dosing) from the same log (at least not w/out too much hassle & fiddling) and had to switch over to another unit instead

The plain 13mm/10mm tube for a glass heater cover solves this 'problem' nicely now





The 10mm inner diameter allows for Dynavap tips (or any other 10mm outer diameter steel, Ti or glass tips) to securely slip into the glass core, so that you can use it for convenient micro dosing like any other traditional style Log Vape now.
Recessed the heater (& debris screen) about ~5mm for that, which is sufficient to secure the tips enough even for single handed use, while keeping it still near enough to the tip of the heater cover to provide sufficient heat for the larger glass roasting bowls.

That brings us to the other part of the equation, as the 13mm outer diameter of the heater cover allows it to slip nicely into the 17mm/13.4mm OD/ID tube, that'll slip over the core then and which comes with some of the standard male 18/26 cones as a backend, you can get from any lab glass shop (the backend of the NS 18.8/26mm cone comes in different diameters though! There are also 16mm/12.4mm and 16mm/11mm). So you can either use a full length 18/26 cone tube for a dd stem (which doubles as a WPA) and/or cut shorter GonGs from it, all spotting a 13.4mm wide bowl!

Last but not least, the 13mm OD heater cover will nicely seal 1/2 way down into any standard female 14/23 socket/joint, which allows you to transform any D14/23 adapter, J Hook etc. into a bowl by simply adding a 1/2" screen to the base of the female joint proper. That leaves a space to fill up then (between the tip of the heater cover and the screen) of ~13mm x 10mm volume for use as a bowl.

 

[Zagala]

transform any D14/23 adapter, J Hook etc. into a bowl by simply adding a 1/2" screen to the base of the female joint proper.

Brilliant the j hook 14mm joint used as a bowl Thanks for this @blokenoname. I have tried with my Couchlog and my 14mm M GTR all the glass adapters with 14mm joint that I have around but I never thought about using any of my j hooks!!! But from last night on I started with one of my j hooks, fit a 1/2” screen and enjoyed pleasant hits on both devices. This is so good and will limit my use of 14mm F to 18mm M adapters on 18mm joint j hook. Great find for me to expand variety. Thanks again for sharing, as always.

 

[blokenoname]

But does it vape with the cord unplugged, like the Couchlog ...!?

Haven't tried it with my GTR clone units yet, but for the recent Glass Core Misty with the plain end 13mm/10mm tube heater cover...

... at least with a Dynavap ss tip full it milked the glass instantly while unplugged, even very very nearly combusting towards the end of the short one hit session!
Was running it at 5.8W/10.8V before unplugging it.

No (glass, ruby, quartz etc.) balls attached, so to say

https://imgur.com/a/xXouPuA

The preformed conical screens with the mesh rim I ordered, turned out to be as versatile, as I hoped they would. Easily adaptable to a lot of different bowl diameters . Here I formed and cut one to make a tiny rimed basket screen for the 14/23mm male joint.
Another one I used to form the larger diameter (rimless) basket screen for the 17mm/13.4mm OD/ID GonG adapter with the male 18/26mm joint in the pics further above in the thread.



Also got some more of the very convenient big bamboo straws, spotting an inner diameter of 9mm and marginally larger outer diameter this time, which allowed me to widen the front end to accept the broken off 10mm glass tip of my original glass VapCap, while giving the stem a 9mm OD boro glass liner.

 

[Alan]

@blokenoname - The GTR clones are looking good. Love the 13mm plain glass heater cover. Can really be done with any size glass or ss tube, just depends upon what size roasting bowl you want to use. The ss wire mesh is quite efficient at transferring heat to the air. Nice to see you using flat screens wedged at the bottom of the 14mm and 18mm tapers. The less metal mass you have, the less heat it will take away from the roast and it will stay clean longer too. Airflow through the full diameter of the screen helps to prevent build up at the perimeter.
You have been making a plethora of roasting tubes. So many different ways to roast. Have you tried paper roasting tubes? The paper takes very little heat away from the roast and also condenses less vapor than solid wood, glass, or ss. A basket screen digs into the paper, so it stays in place fairly well. The screen stays cleaner since the paper absorbs less heat. The screen doesn’t loose much heat to the paper. The tubes can be made any size and length. Toss the paper when it gets dirty and make a new one. I use plain white printer paper, but can be made from any paper. Reclaim oil can be recovered easily if you use parchment paper, but you need to use a longer length (more wraps) since it is thinner. The paper doesn’t add any taste for me. Have also used paper tubes for lining the wood bowl and mouthpiece tube. It is the perfect DIY roasting tube.

 

[darkstar72]

Yes to the paper roasting tube. In addition to printer paper, you can use thick hemp paper that is sold as rolling paper, joint/blunt tips. These will make a short paper roasting tip/chamber when rolled up. I have attached them to the end of existing roasting tubes with silicone tubing.

 

[blokenoname]

@Alan
High praise from the Master JedHI! Thanks!

The GTRs are a great idea . Never would have imagined, that a mere expansion of the heater surface works so exceedingly well (be it stacked screens or rolled up fine mesh)
Guess my personal favorite of the GTR variations so far, is the F19 one (a.k.a the 'Desktop Splinter')

Very fond myself of the 13mm/10mm glass core. The ideal diameter for accommodating the 10mm slip in tips for the quick toke in between, while also allowing for massive loads & wider bowls, due to the outer diameter sealing perfectly in the F14 joint
And also nice, that the thick glass tube has enough heat retention capacity, to allow another hit, after unplugging the unit!

You have been making a plethora of roasting tubes. So many different ways to roast. Have you tried paper roasting tubes? The paper takes very little heat away from the roast and also condenses less vapor than solid wood, glass, or ss.

Yes to the paper roasting tube. In addition to printer paper, you can use thick hemp paper that is sold as rolling paper, joint/blunt tips. These will make a short paper roasting tip/chamber when rolled up.

Yes! I indeed did and just made a 10mm paper tip only a few days ago. It's remarkable robust and the screen still nearly pristine, after a couple of uses.
Will certainly make a couple more and also trying larger sizes, for slipping over the core



Good logging

 

[blokenoname]

Nice

Make 10mm outer diameter (OD)/8mm inner diameter (ID) paper tip with glass lined bamboo stem.

Take normed bamboo straw (12mm OD x 8mm ID), 8mm OD boro glass straw for a stem liner, piece of 10mm ID silicone tubing and a strip of A4 printer paper (narrow side).
Push silicone sleeve about 1/2 its length over bamboo straw.

Roll up printer paper strip tightly around the 8mm glass liner; push glass liner a bit down in the paper roll and tidy it up.

Next insert glass liner with its backend into the end of the bamboo straw with the silicone sleeve (twisting it a bit, like as if you were threading it in helps). Insert fitting basket screen into paper tip (~8mm diameter basket screen in this case)



Have nice bamboo dd stem with glass liner and perfectly fitting 10mm outer diameter paper tip



Rinse & repeat, whenever paper tip gets too dirty.

8mm OD paper tip is even easier with the 8mm ID bamboo straw, as we just forgo the glass liner & silicone sleeve and roll up a wider strip of printer paper around a 6mm OD dowel, that then gets fully inserted into the bamboo straw, serving both as tip and paper liner for the bamboo stem

 

[blokenoname]

Oh look ... good old Misty got all new, pretty exotic clothes!
All dressed up in Wild Mango now!

Seems, we've got us a new, very talented Wood Wizard in town, mastering the magic of the lathe... and which I heard, is a certain Log Wrangler from Wales, already known for his awesome Rustic Logs

Excellent job @brainiac! I'm in friggin' awe!!!


2" ø Wild Mango Misty with 3/8" stainless steel core:





Beautiful end-grain


The Misty Core:


Came with a fitting, very beautiful & versatile Wild Mango stem with a 14.4mm WonG end, that can carry the classic 8mm ø stainless steel tips, the 10mm ø Dynavap tips and also spots a 10mm ø wooden bowl within a 18.8/19mm taper, for use as a micro dosing stem with the Splinter type vapes, like the Female 18mm GTR, iHeat and so on



All you have to do, is to exchange the tip or set in a 10mm ø flat screen, to use the wooden bowl.




I guess, we'll see a lot more here from Brainy shortly

Keep on Loggin', folks

 

[Haze Mister]

Is this or any other wood dense enough to not soak in hot weed oil and become sticky and smelly? Hot water is probably a bad idea but does cleaning with alcohol weaken the wood?

 

[blokenoname]

Is this or any other wood dense enough to not soak in hot weed oil and become sticky and smelly? Hot water is probably a bad idea but does cleaning with alcohol weaken the wood?

The wooden shell of the Log is nowhere in direct contact with the herb or vapor. So nothing gets sticky there

As for the stems & wooden bowl: they'll of course get sticky & oily on the inside with use. Builds up a natural patina of cannabis oil, that even protects you from more aggressive irritants, certain woods may contain and to which some folks react allergic.
I usually clean those stems out with a dry pipe cleaner, when the build up gets a bit too heavy. Iso is not good on wood, as it'll dry out the wood aggressively and also leaves bad stains. In short: it ruins the wood
Water is also a bad idea!

If you don't like that however, it's also very easy to set in a fitting stainless steel or glass liner, to protect the wood from residue and making the cleaning easier.
6mm or 8mm ø steel & boro glass straws are pretty en vogue right now, so that you can easily find a pack on Amazon or elsewhere for just a few quid.
These liners can be cleaned with iso then.
You can also use some rolled up paper, to line bowl and stem, as you'll see, when you just scroll up a bit.

 

[Cheebsy]

Fantastic to see you using a lathe @brainiac, that Mango looks great! Looking forward to what you share with us in the future!

 

[brainiac]

@Cheebsy and @blokenoname thanks very much for your kind words.

The blank from which blokenoname's Wild Mango was turned was large enough for two logs - so here's the other half of the blank

​

I'm calling the style 'raised chalice' and turned the stem and WonG to match. It's got an IR halogen heater and cooks herb nicely at 9.5v.
Yep, I've been busy on the lathe for some months now and the results just keep getting better. I'll post some more of the work soon including an unfeasably large collection of dd stems/WonGs of both domestic wood and exotic.

Good logging.

 

[Zagala]

I like the idea of an halogen heater, never tried it before.

 

[blokenoname]

Evening

A bit more wood porn!

Another awesome Padauk body, @brainiac recently turned for the Misty , together with a fitting direct draw stem and a 14mm WonG adapter

Comes with the 13mm ø plain end boro glass core, that'll allow your Dynavap tips slipping into the core (for the nice little toke in between ), while the 18mm GonG adapter spots a 13.4mm (inner ø) bowl, slipping comfortably over the core, to satisfy the wee bit larger appetites there

The 13mm glass core also seals perfectly 1/2 way down in any standard female 14mm adapter/j-hook

Keep on Logging

 

[brainiac]

Teamwork

Great to see the Padauk body put to such good use. Yet another Misty iteration. Nice work, Bloke.
What are you calling it?

 

[darkstar72]

@brainiac beautiful work! It's great to see how your DIY log efforts have evolved. Your attention to detail is excellent. Thanks for sharing and inspiring us.

 

[Haze Mister]

Some most excellent stuff here.
I just rememebered back to the days I was using a log vape. What put me off in the end is that I wanted to use a bubbler and didn't want to have to hold this log, with a cable attached, on top of my rig.

So I just thought an easy solution could be glass stems with a 180 degree bend ? It would still be a two -handed job but it may be less awkward and certainly so with tabletop use.

Also, bring on the halogen goodness