The HighLighter (Glass-Core Open-Source Halogen Log) Kit Hosted by REFC Labs

RedEyeFlightControl

Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Manufacturer
A hydratube hydrafoot style stand would take up less table top space
I am personally and publicly advising against this. This heater is most ideally situated in a horizontal or Core up position. Core down means heat convects up the back of the tube towards the oring and wires. While no one has reported this being an issue yet, I cannot advise it as an ideal practice.

That said, I know lots of folks who do this, but I cannot officially stamp it with my approval for obvious safety concerns.
 

CrazyDiamond

Crosseyed & Painless
As well as putting more strain on the power wires since the wires would hang down a lot more. Closer to horizontal is more I deal...kinda like the LSV wine bottle stand; keeps the heat from going back towards components and provides some strain relief.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
I am personally and publicly advising against this. This heater is most ideally situated in a horizontal or Core up position. Core down means heat convects up the back of the tube towards the oring and wires. While no one has reported this being an issue yet, I cannot advise it as an ideal practice.

That said, I know lots of folks who do this, but I cannot officially stamp it with my approval for obvious safety concerns.

Got to ask, how do you manage yours?
 
howie105,
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RedEyeFlightControl

Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Manufacturer
Got to ask, how do you manage yours?
I typically use a regular ol' bent lab clamp on a naked core (seen in pics in this thread). My daily driver is actually still the first functional core I built back in Dec or Jan some time, which I crammed into this bocote heat shield, the second functional heat shield so far. I have a canary heat shield as well, but I never bothered to put a DC jack in it since I was swapping test cores very often. It's in my vape library for now. I may do something more with it at some point, as the specimen was admittedly too gorgeous for a test block, and still has a lot of potential.

I have a sister blank for each of these specimens in my private stock for later ;)

This is my daily driver in Bocote with the canary hiding behind it. This core has been an absolute unit. In all of this testing is has neither combusted nor let me down once, ever. It's traveled across several states and over a thousand miles of road, been left on, poked, prodded, measured, and generally harassed to vape utterly stupid amounts of flower... it's seen a campfire, several group sesh's, and has racked up some absurd length of runtime so far.


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And the canary
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Some earlier builds during testing:
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In some cases a little creativity goes a really long way:
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And this last lone I love because of the cherenkov radiation-like glow :)
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As stated previously the lab clamps will probably be dropped as a standard kit item and made an add-on. It is the only component that some folks are having difficulty dealing with/bending so I think reducing it from the kit and making it optional is a safe move. It requires a significant amount of either strength or tools. The growing number of creative ways people are finding to use this core is pretty cool! I can't wait to see what crazy stuff other artists come up with!!!
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)

oldfool

Well-Known Member
:uhoh:

Just took my first hit. Outstanding. 6.65V, ruby balls, microdose chamber (from my ditanium).
Are the balls supposed to move around a bit? Had to find a smaller o-ring for the bulb.

IMG-2488.jpg



IMG-2490.jpg


IMG-2493.jpg
 
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RedEyeFlightControl

Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Manufacturer
Just took my first hit. Outstanding. 6.65V, ruby balls, microdose chamber (from my ditanium).
Are the balls supposed to move around a bit? Had to find a smaller o-ring for the bulb.

IMG-2488.jpg



IMG-2490.jpg


IMG-2493.jpg

Yes, there should be some play to the balls :)

They should be loose and / or rattle a little bit. We accounted for CoE on the glass as well as the interior dimensions - this is normal. Small gaps are fine, but you shouldn't have any major voids. Looks pretty close! A #111 70 Durometer silicone o-ring is the usual fit for the base retainer. Got really lucky on that one... same size as the JetDryV o-rings :)
 

RedEyeFlightControl

Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Manufacturer
I cut a couple of slots in the heater core for air intake and
sealed up the rear with a silicone plug, right up against the bulb holder..

IMG-2498.jpg
NIce work!

Vents were considered but we decided against adding significant rework to the kit for cost, ability, and physical strength reasons. I'd suggest polishing these vents if you haven't, yet. Nor have we tested this, fwiw. I'm curious to hear if you notice any change in performance.
 

oldfool

Well-Known Member
Vents were considered but we decided against adding significant rework to the kit
Well I can't leave anything stock. Took about a minute with a Dremel cutting disc lubed/cooled with water.
I'd suggest polishing these vents if you haven't, yet.
Why? Worried about heat causing cracking around the cut?
I'm curious to hear if you notice any change in performance.
Not that I've noticed.. It fits in a log with a sealed bottom is why I did it.

IMG-2500.jpg
 

RedEyeFlightControl

Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Manufacturer
Well I can't leave anything stock. Took about a minute with a Dremel cutting disc lubed/cooled with water.

Why? Worried about heat causing cracking around the cut?

Not that I've noticed.. It fits in a log with a sealed bottom is why I did it.

IMG-2500.jpg

>Why? Worried about heat causing cracking around the cut?

Or an impact causing it to break, if jarred. You are probably aware that boro tube like this is circumferentially scored, then snapped in half, to "cut". My concern is you've made half of that score by removing a portion of the tube using abrasion rather than flame-working a hole into it, and that the tube could easily snap. Flame polishing the vents would raise confidence a lot.

As long as you are really gentle with it, it will probably be fine. But the mod does leave me a tad concerned for structural integrity. Makes sense with the heat shield you have it in. I know a few of the designers were planning on some mods (myself included) for personal rigs. We're still playing with ideas.
 

fropones

Well-Known Member
Hell yeah, me too. Did it come with the scoop? I bought one, too, but realize I shouldn’t have if it came w one
 
fropones,
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