The HighLighter (Glass-Core Open-Source Halogen Log) Kit Hosted by REFC Labs


Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
@RedEyeFlightControl. I didnt meant like you dont have any of my suggestion covered already,i was talking about general design obstacles and downsides of the Halo-concepts since i thought that was the question i was answering .
2) I wont get into debate but there is hot spotting in the videos.
3) Protip : Increase the gauge to 2-3mm and there is zero issues, people just use thin ecig wire, that why it is an issue. Sry but i prefer bare steel to any insulated wire. SS Wires are cold to the touch. You can experiment if you dont take my word for it :).
4)I meant that some of the sockets come with fiber glass insulation ot their leads,not that you have them. I highly doubt the contacts are SS as you say it is resistive and not a good material for the purpose. (Material is more likely Cn plated Cu which is the standart for DC leads or Nickel)
5) PWM like led dimmers are shitty controllers. Buck boost is better or PWM that works in inaudible frequencies is what you and the MUSA are using.
6) Bulbs are rated for 250-300 celsius there is special OVEN version which is suitable for pyrolisis by Osram and can handle 350 Celsius.

What are you using to retain the ceramic socket in the glass is it a silicone ring ? A metal retaining ring might be better ;). Or you are refering to the silicone in the airpath just to the wire insulation.
We can all nit pick all day and night ,but your concept is purer than what most vaporizers have in general ,people are having daily fun with less pure concepts with decades with no ill effects. :) Pe rfect makes shit expensive as in the end you need a lot of effort to solve minimal problems. I am pretty sure you are right in the middle between purity/simplicity of project and ease of build ,so you can deliver a decent price . I wish i wasnt such a maniac for purity and perfect operation , i am really extreme in my thougts often,just like the Princess and the Pea story. Sometimes it takes a pea under 10 matraces to keep me from having a good night sleep. I finally came out with a the optimal vape design solution for me,but it takes so much time to build ,so making 20 units per week will be more than a handful.
I want to wish you nothing else but good luck into your endeavour . I hope you didnt feel like i tried to bash your product or smth and just interested in materials discussions and such.
>I didnt meant like you dont have any of my suggestion covered already

No offense taken whatsoever, I want to make sure we've objectively covered safety concerns so it is best to make the effort to do so :)

No debate needed on the hot spotting you see in the videos. It's primarily due to heat loss at the very edge of the basket where the basket rim acts as a heat sink. The edge will be lighter after the first few hits, this seems to be a common theme with baskets in general. You can keep going and brown off the rest of that little ridge as conduction takes over and the glass/basket heat, but there is very little untouched herb throughout the basket aside from the top edge, there. This is a subjective observation, and will vary, person to person, use case to use case. The devs feel the core heats evenly enough to go no further in refining the exit fluid dynamics at a rate of diminishing return. It's not so much a debate, just one person's opinion/observation/preferences to another :) and I can respect that.

I take your word on thicker SS, and ohm's law agrees. On the same token, if our contacts were spring steel, they seem adequately thick to not cause resistance on their own, and since we're not using TCR, negligible changes in resistance shouldn't matter and the PSU won't care about this.

I still disagree a bit on PWM being bad for a passive resistive bulb but do agree cheap PWM are not a good reliable source of power, and will introduce noise/bounce. This is especially important for developing controller boards where the PWM signal may be introduced to a MOSTFET gate (this beats on the gate unmercilessly causing VERY premature failure). In these situations we use signal generators to keep out the noise. For a regular old filament bulb, this isn't a concern (at least, to me).

The bulb is retained by one o-ring. I did consider alternatives, and do have a working use case for an additional 30-mesh steel retainer, but for the sake of production cost, time, and relative safe temps that the o-rings experience, we did not opt to add a custom fabricated metal retainer. I have the tools here to make it, but it would add more cost/time to something that has so far not been a problem. This would also complicate the build for those seeking their own parts individually as I'm not aware of a commercially made retainer for this case.

Don't feel like we're being nitpicky over health/safety concerns. These are real discussions that need to happen and I'd rather explain our thought process so the design decisions have some validation behind them. We have done our best to ensure material safety in the safe operational ranges of this heater while keeping costs low. You are right, there is a trade off. We are doing our best to ensure it is a long term viable build. So far so good.

LMK if you have any other concerns I/we can address!

Abysmal Vapor

Saturnine in my mind
@RedEyeFlightControl I dont think you need custom retaining ring :) there are all size and shapes and steel grades of these.
I meant that cheap LED dimmers are bad PWMs not that PWM is worse than Buck Boost. :) There some pretty neat wireless,app controllable pwm/buck boosts on aliexpress , i have one on order and will post about it when it arrives.

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Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
@RedEyeFlightControl I dont think you need custom retaining ring :) there are all size and shapes and steel grades of these.
I meant that cheap LED dimmers are bad PWMs not that PWM is worse than Buck Boost. :) There some pretty neat wireless,app controllable pwm/buck boosts on aliexpress , i have one on order and will post about it when it arrives.

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I like this idea and will consider it for future kits/builds. This will be hard to integrate with a ceramic base but the idea is there. The o-ring not only serves as the fastener for the ceramic base, but also prevents the ceramic base from clanking around inside the tube. I'll think on it a bit as we'd need to reconsider materials, coefficients of expansion and friction, and then making sure it's widely available. For now we'll keep the o-rings as tested. Thanks for sharing! :)


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That was a huge hit! Bet it looks cool in a dark room. Can you use the light it emits to check if the bowl needs to be stirred in the dark?
Far more light comes out of the front than from the glass. That said, the bulb is only running at less than half wattage, and the color temperature in this range is far-red dominant., so you may have trouble illuminating surfaces that are above red-orange-yellow in frequency. (Like green herb).

On the same note, these frequencies activate some of the various color shifting borosilicates, and I have a realllllllly dope glass artist doing some investigatory work for me behind the scenes :)

The short answer is YMMV.
But it does add a lovely ambience to my "secret" vape shelf without shining out a beacon light to my children
Lmao you can always just say it's aurora borealis localized entirely in your shelf! Seriously though thanks for the pic, it looks awesome!
Oh wow, the glass foot really does make it brighter!!! That's just lovely!
This is what I hoping for! If only someone sold a colored glass hydrafoot..


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Thrilled to have this kid in hand…unfortunately, a whole day before my VVPS arrives 😫

Oh well, guess I’ll just have a really lit Friday.
Sam, I think you just took a new stock photo! Seriously, how the hell does every image that comes from you look picture perfect???


Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Will it only be able to be used with a glass piece or will it also have the option of using a stem like a regular log?
The "Wand Tool" is both a dry wand mp and a tool (the clear male blank). You use it as a tool first, to install the front screen, then the ceramic base, and once the build is completed, you put the basket screen in the joint end, to be used as a dry wand mouthpiece. It's fully functional as a dry vape once assembled (provided you have a compatible power source). When you remove the clamp, the MP and Core can easily be stored in a small pocket sized case, so it also stores/travels well, too. The wand is just a straight tube, which has 2 advantages. It collects the least condensate (you get the most vapor), and It's as easy to clean as running hot water through it. This type of MP can run on the warmer side, but it's very tame compared to some of the other MP's and vapes I've used.

Here's 1) a pic from a few months ago, using the stock kit at a friend's campfire during some testing, 2) a photo against one of my displays showing the same assembly with a different clamp, and 3) for good measure, a photo of me holding a powered on unit, to show just how close to the heat source can be safe to hold. Obviously you don't want to grab it close the lit portion because it transitions from "ok" to "OMGFIRE" in just a few mm, but it's rather forgiving in being cool to the touch over the rear half of the core, even when fully soaked. Just wanted to throw that out there since it has been raised as a question.

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Inventor,Maker, Pro Nerd, Entgineer, GladScientist
Is it possible to send it worldwide?
I want to fit it in a wooden log case. Did anyone guess how to do it?
Nice project, I've been praying for a halo kit so long!
Yes, I do plan on shipping internationally.

The design spec for wood heat shields will be released soon so anyone can make and sell them. This part was meant as a gift to the community so owners can take their business to any artist they choose.

And Thanks! Hope everyone likes it!


Well-Known Member


Doodler & noodler

The VVPS arrived and my Friday significantly improved — and that’s even after a super awesome interview, so you know this thing is good. A ten minute process to get it up and running, and then a 15 minute heat-soak was all that was needed. I might pick up a bit of heat-shrink tubing to cover the hand-braided wires up.
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