Discontinued The Grasshopper
- Thread starter midgetsanchez
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moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
Yer welcome. I was wondering if anyone would pick up the reference. It's been a good long while...
Thanks for that...
btka
Well-Known Member
sorry guys and girls
yes I was maybe a bit harsh but today I am bit frustrated and stressed so hope you can forgive me and understand me... and also I do not have a working hopper to ease my mind
and I REALLY HATE THIS BRUSHES...
I will show you some pics of my cleaning routine:
https://picload.org/image/rodwcodl/20170123_193147.jpg
https://picload.org/image/rodwcolo/20170123_193236.jpg
https://picload.org/image/rodwcocd/20170123_193254.jpg
https://picload.org/image/rodwcoic/20170123_193322.jpg
https://picload.org/image/rodwcopo/20170123_193528.jpg
BTW a clean hopper is a happy hopper if it works and that is all you need..
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Icon13
Serial Vapist
No, you are not. However, even if you scrape it after every use you will clog the holes with resin. I scraped mine after every use and noticed that my Hopper was running a bit hot. I believe this is because resin was restricting the airflow of the mouthpiece at the screen. When I held my Hopper up to the light and looked through the tip of the mouthpiece I could see some light, but not nearly as much light as I could after I gave it a really good cleaning with some rubbing alcohol. After which, holding it up to the light I could clearly see through to the other end, and the airflow was incredibly improved. I believe that this was a factor in my Hopper running hot.
Also, I'm not sure if I like the water pipe adapter. Obviously I have not used one, but I assume the front end has a much larger opening for airflow than the tiny one at the tip of the standard mouthpiece. This will greatly increase airflow. However, my concern is that the increased air flow will cause the heating element to cool down more and cause the heating element to work harder in order to keep the temperatures stable. If the heating element is getting hotter will we experience even more temperature sensor issues than with the standard mouthpiece? I guess time will tell.
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
sorry guys and girls
yes I was maybe a bit harsh but today I am bit frustrated and stressed so hope you can forgive me and understand me... and also I do not have a working hopper to ease my mind
and I REALLY HATE THIS BRUSHES...
No worries bud, it's all good, I do think your method is valid.
We all have those days (I call them mondays) where we are a little off centre. Especially if we are without our favourite vapes.
What I really want is a bit of pencil thin bamboo about 2cm long with a poker in one end and a bit of sponge or strip of t-shirt at the other that can be routinely replaced. I feel a micro DIY project coming up
I find if I let the hopper cool then the resin cools and hardens a little and I don't get it as clean as I can when it's still warm.
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Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
I agree that I notice improved draw after a mouthpiece ISO soak. And easier screwing/unscrewing of the mouthpiece.
Another thing I do that I forgot to mention... After I do the mouthpiece screen scrape, I gently tap the mouthpiece so anything loosened can fall out, AND I give it a couple quick hard blows (from the mouthpiece tip) to blow out anything loosened.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I also have received a variety of cleaning brushes with different vapes and yes, they have plastic bristles of some sort and no, I have never melted any of the bristles.
I use a smaller brush to clean out the chamber after every load and I have a slightly fatter one I use on the MP.
No problem with this at all but to each their own.
Cheers
I use a smaller brush to clean out the chamber after every load and I have a slightly fatter one I use on the MP.
No problem with this at all but to each their own.
Cheers
btka
Well-Known Member
BTW I am always trying to keep my hopper in a position like this...
because I have observed resin is coming out of the tip of my mp and always worried if i would keep it in the other direction this resin maybe will run in the heater or gunk up a sensor...
next time i will put a parchment paper there to collect the resin... so the hopper does also a sort of rosin oil haaaaaaahaaa
but after all all this babying did not help keeping my hoppers working!!!!!!!
BTW HL responded to my warranty claim and want me to send in the whole hopper with charger and battery as it seems they have changed their warranty policy and are not sending anymore replacement parts and you have to send back your broken part when you receive it yehhh until now 70 euros costs sending them my broken ghs... and the costs doubled after they want me to send in the whole gh, charger and battery normally I paid 10 euros sending them the broken body only... but the charger is too big and if I am sending it like they asked for I pay now 20 euros... ok find away to send it with the charger for 10 euros then the 20 euros, will send it in a bubble bag without the original packaging this time...
because I have observed resin is coming out of the tip of my mp and always worried if i would keep it in the other direction this resin maybe will run in the heater or gunk up a sensor...
next time i will put a parchment paper there to collect the resin... so the hopper does also a sort of rosin oil haaaaaaahaaa
but after all all this babying did not help keeping my hoppers working!!!!!!!
BTW HL responded to my warranty claim and want me to send in the whole hopper with charger and battery as it seems they have changed their warranty policy and are not sending anymore replacement parts and you have to send back your broken part when you receive it yehhh until now 70 euros costs sending them my broken ghs... and the costs doubled after they want me to send in the whole gh, charger and battery normally I paid 10 euros sending them the broken body only... but the charger is too big and if I am sending it like they asked for I pay now 20 euros... ok find away to send it with the charger for 10 euros then the 20 euros, will send it in a bubble bag without the original packaging this time...
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biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
Not looking for the next vape castle, still on the hopper honeymoon, just a bit bummed with how these new hoppers are acting, and even more bummed and less confident with having to file an RMA, which will more than likely come back the same way it came. So no, I don't even wanna bother to ask because I already know what the answer will be.
This! I forgot to mention that my two newer hoppers do take longer than my OG's.... I haven't timed it, but it's noticeable. And hell yes to the super heated back ends too!
Time for more testing!
That blows!
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
BTW I am always trying to keep my hopper in a position like this...
because I have observed resin is coming out of the tip of my mp and always worried if i would keep it in the other direction this resin maybe will run in the heater or gunk up a sensor...
next time i will put a parchment paper there to collect the resin... so the hopper does also a sort of rosin oil haaaaaaahaaa
but after all all this babying did not help keeping my hoppers working!!!!!!!
BTW HL responded to my warranty claim and want me to send in the whole hopper with charger and battery as it seems they have changed their warranty policy and are not sending anymore replacement parts and you have to send back your broken part when you receive it yehhh until now 70 euros costs sending them my broken ghs... and the costs doubled after they want me to send in the whole gh, charger and battery normally I paid 10 euros sending them the broken body only... but the charger is too big and if I am sending it like they asked for I pay now 20 euros... ok find away to send it with the charger for 10 euros then the 20 euros, will send it in a bubble bag without the original packaging this time...
Wow thats a lot of resin!
Are you vaping wax's or shatter in there or is that just from fresh flower?
btka
Well-Known Member
found away to keep the costs at 10 euros but will not send it in its original package but bubble bag then it will cost 10 euros not 20 euros
ooo
Well-Known Member
i do this every time before i reload in both the mouthpiece and chamber. i started out using a wooden toothpick to do this and then recently switched to a plastic martini sword. sometimes i'll even use a little blu-tack to get out any extra residue around the threads of the chamber and in the mp. i also use those little brushes and clean both the mouthpiece and chamber AFTER the hopper has cooled down. never had anything melt inside from doing it this way or any other problems. rarely do i have to an iso soak with the mouthpiece because i routinely clean my hopper this way.
btka
Well-Known Member
I only vaped flower in it... but I cleaned it .. normally it is even more resin (after 2 to 3 weeks vaping everyday)
but I am sure if you position your gh like me you will also get such resin... try it! it is ubelieveable!
GreenHopper
20 going on 60
I think as my home grow capability improves this will hopefully be a problem I'll be running into.
For now I still have much to learn as I think my material isn't as resinous/high quality as yours.
Although there no doubt it gets the job done, just had my first of the evening and I'm starting to actually see the buzz
.
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
This was the third damage since June 16. I spent quite some money on shipping and could not use it for some 6 weeks in total, so I didn't even use it for 6 months. This is beyond Gewährleistung. I documented the three warranty cases I had so far and they did what a businessman would do to keep business going I guess.
Hopper Labs now told me I need to send it in for them to "determine the problem". I Guess I'm just ripping that thing too hard. I had Jamaican Rastas amazed by my ripping the chalice.
Ok, I just did that and it's working. Don't get me wrong, great advice, but I'd rather end this chapter. And now I can't. Let's see how long this works though. When I started having the flickering blue light and hot backend, the voodoo helped me for a couple days.
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear! Hopefully, it'll keep working.
@biohacker ... You're a miracle worker (quoted from Captain Kirk, of course)!
btka
Well-Known Member
fuck it works again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
funny but I also did what @biohacker said:"I'm not sure why, but out of the blue my straight to blue no heating went back to normal heating, so it's probably not broken, but potentially just "stuck". Try a super clean, try drawing on it empty in case some residue snuck its way into the sensor. I knocked mine on a table (just the body), and did all sorts of weird voodoo dances and offerings to the gods. It works!" and now it is working!!!
gh now produces thin clouds... so will send it to gh...
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biohacker
H.R.E.A.M
I like your style!EDIT: Ever since that one glitch it has worked flawlessly since! I wish the same for all of yours!
btka
Well-Known Member
thanks now it is working again hope it keeps working...
I am so happy at the moment!!!!!!!!!
maybe we should ad that to the grasshopper fixes!!!!!
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
With that kind of abuse, that'll lead to the next march on Washington... Grasshoppers are people too!!!
(okay...just a joke and I don't want to in any way minimize the importance of the Women's March)
Elac
Silly rabbit trips are for kids
Hey guys and gals,
My son and I received our two Ti Hoppers on the 17th.
A bong in a pen is how I describe it to people.
Absolutely amazed with it's build and how it performs.
Now it's been about a week so time to test it out a bit.
As has been talked about on the web (maybe here too?) there is a voltage potential between the clicker and the body. The clicker being negative and the body positive. The following is a few observations on that.
First, there is some resistance between the clicker and the clip and also the clip and the negative battery contact.
Second, here is some readouts from the oscilloscope.
What's shown there is repetitive through all the temps.
Oscilloscope probe was connected to to clicker and clip.
A closeup of what was captured.
A few other observations:
The negative terminal of my Hopper is slightly concave.
Which isn't the best for contact.
With that and the loose fit of the backend threads to the body, there leaves enough room between the threads for the backend to tilt a bit so that there can be poor contact between the battery and the backend and/or between the backend threads and the body threads.
Also the inner PCB of the body has a test point added:
Comared to this:
2 things I don't do:
1 leave my finger on the clicker while holding the unit when powered on as this creates a small short.
2 reassemble my hopper after use,
why screw and unscrew the backend and mouth piece 2 extra times per session.
5 sessions a day 10 extra wears on the gritty threads, 70 a week, 210 a month.... you get the picture.
And check the body threads really well, with a magnifying glass if possible, both my son and I found small pieces of metal leftover from the lathe. Wouldn't want any of that to fall into the body on that circuitry down there.
Time to go enjoy this awsome device.
My son and I received our two Ti Hoppers on the 17th.
A bong in a pen is how I describe it to people.
Absolutely amazed with it's build and how it performs.
Now it's been about a week so time to test it out a bit.
As has been talked about on the web (maybe here too?) there is a voltage potential between the clicker and the body. The clicker being negative and the body positive. The following is a few observations on that.
First, there is some resistance between the clicker and the clip and also the clip and the negative battery contact.
Second, here is some readouts from the oscilloscope.
What's shown there is repetitive through all the temps.
Oscilloscope probe was connected to to clicker and clip.
A closeup of what was captured.
A few other observations:
The negative terminal of my Hopper is slightly concave.
Which isn't the best for contact.
With that and the loose fit of the backend threads to the body, there leaves enough room between the threads for the backend to tilt a bit so that there can be poor contact between the battery and the backend and/or between the backend threads and the body threads.
Also the inner PCB of the body has a test point added:
Comared to this:
2 things I don't do:
1 leave my finger on the clicker while holding the unit when powered on as this creates a small short.
2 reassemble my hopper after use,
why screw and unscrew the backend and mouth piece 2 extra times per session.
5 sessions a day 10 extra wears on the gritty threads, 70 a week, 210 a month.... you get the picture.
And check the body threads really well, with a magnifying glass if possible, both my son and I found small pieces of metal leftover from the lathe. Wouldn't want any of that to fall into the body on that circuitry down there.
Time to go enjoy this awsome device.
moondog
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I didn't say anything the first time but I gotta call ya on this. That language sounds way too much like the recently anointed US Gropenfuhrer. Waaaay too many people take his installment as permission to talk this way and to threaten women and it's really totally NOT ok. You can speak however you want "at home" but turn it off here, please.
Please don't. That was some very important shit that went down on Saturday. All over the world. Thanks.