Discontinued The Grasshopper

buckhakeesah

Well-Known Member
Just received the feeder and case. Love it!
The video doesn't lie.

bK0nB9Gl.jpg


So well designed and solid, even a friggin' magnet to hold lid. Nice 0.1g every time. Spooky good.

About my own hopper experience over the last few weeks, it's like doing shots of tequila for me compared to my other vapes. This is a good thing. I've been using f-bomb lately, two handed, no water so I can angle it better. Done in three long fast draws. I don't click it off between draws. Oddly, found battery lasts longer that way. A lot easier, too. Maybe less strain on back end without repeated firm clicking on/off. After reading about thread related back end issues, figured I'd play it safe and charge hopper as designed. Less stress opening/closing, and easier.
Does this feeder contain the scent well once the magnetic lid is on? Wonder how stealth this vapefeeder is.
 

IAmKrazy2

Darth Vapor
Just received the feeder and case. Love it!
The video doesn't lie.

bK0nB9Gl.jpg


So well designed and solid, even a friggin' magnet to hold lid. Nice 0.1g every time. Spooky good.

About my own hopper experience over the last few weeks, it's like doing shots of tequila for me compared to my other vapes. This is a good thing. I've been using f-bomb lately, two handed, no water so I can angle it better. Done in three long fast draws. I don't click it off between draws. Oddly, found battery lasts longer that way. A lot easier, too. Maybe less strain on back end without repeated firm clicking on/off. After reading about thread related back end issues, figured I'd play it safe and charge hopper as designed. Less stress opening/closing, and easier.

I will say again the cases are top knotch. Love both of mine.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
Interesting post on Reddit: https://m.reddit.com/r/GrassHopperVape/comments/58olvi/hl_are_not_fans_of_the_conductive_grease/

HL are not fans of the conductive grease.
u/Namekian66


"So I was going back and forth with Caroline about hot back ends and I decided to mention the conductive grease and this is what she said.

"We are well aware of some people using conductive grease and we do not recommend using it with your Hopper. This is because it is very risky and when done properly can yield good results however, when not done properly, can cause serious damage to the device that will void your warranty service. We suggest contacting us if you feel your backend is getting too hot and we can assist you with the issue. Per the owner's manual, the warranty does not cover any device that was damaged due to misuse such as:....making any attempt to repair the device yourself".

I know its probably not that hard to apply or that dangerous to the device but I thought I'd just let everyone know HL are not fans. Wipe it off really well if you need service."

This is good to know, but I see that response as a stock answer. If you used grease and indeed used it in such a way as to leave tell-tale signs of having used it, sure, they are in their rights to void a warranty.

As an aside, I could point to this topic of grease going back several weeks ago in our own forum here, but the long and short of it is that grease and even DetoxIT (as god d as DetoxIT is) seem to have been replaced by Blue Tac. Certainly this is the case for me, and I haven't looked back.

Having said that, I recognize that those who are brand new to using hoppers will pick up information on different forums. It's interesting to observe that, for the Grasshopper, it seems our forum is further along on the evolutionary scale than Reddit. Then again, perhaps we all discover different things at different times.

But only WE have a Fixes Resource :clap:
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
... how do you like that grasshopper case?
Comments on the case: GH fits snug, no movement after screwing on sturdy caps. But so snug, can't insert GH in case with the silicone mouthpiece on. Entire case feels very sturdy. The other slot fits a spare battery and the little herb tube shaped like a battery. Don't like the item description when it suggests holding two batteries -- too dangerous imo. (Batteries don't fit in slot with silicone safety end caps on)

More pictures on the ebay listings:
Feeder
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282179286979
Case
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282115782363

That feeder is amazing.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
I'm really glad I never added the conductive grease to the fixes resource. I looked into it and it seemed risky. Some of that stuff is highly toxic, and even if it isn't in the air path it's best not to handle it if you don't have to.

It makes me think I should add a disclaimer to the fixes resource about voiding the warranty. Or is that too much?

I'm also wondering if I should remove the info about DeOxit. It seems safe and it has seemed to work for many people. On the other hand, that was pre Blu-Tac, which seems to be the best option now.
 

Purple Lava Lamp

Well-Known Member
So well designed and solid, even a friggin' magnet to hold lid. Nice 0.1g every time. Spooky good.
Charlie, when feeding the hopper, can you adjust the amount? Like, can you do a smaller load by only inserting it halfway? Or does it only work if you do the full insert?

Also, how good is the seal from the caps on the case(s)? Would you say it's airtight, or even waterproof? Would you trust it to keep your hopper bone dry even if it got splashed with water? or even dropped in water?
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
I'm really glad I never added the conductive grease to the fixes resource. I looked into it and it seemed risky. Some of that stuff is highly toxic, and even if it isn't in the air path it's best not to handle it if you don't have to.

It makes me think I should add a disclaimer to the fixes resource about voiding the warranty. Or is that too much?

I'm also wondering if I should remove the info about DeOxit. It seems safe and it has seemed to work for many people. On the other hand, that was pre Blu-Tac, which seems to be the best option now.
When it was first brought up (deoxit and conductive grease), I expressed concern over it. Not because it is innately risky, but because an open, public recommendation isn't the best practice for volatile chemicals.

What HL have said is very expected, it's worth acknowledging HL's stance on the topic as a liability waiver in the fixes thread, and to promote safe usage, knowing that beyond personal and device safety, it is currently the only communicated way that warranty could be voided.

I trust Joe's opinion that blu tack is a viable alternative to cleaning agents, and it certainly removes any concerns about safety.
But, correct use of DeoxIT is fine too and isn't going to be noticeable, apart from you know, clean threads. User discretion is advised as always, it's not a bad idea to check for conduction issues without downtime - if you know what you're doing. Although, I don't remember seeing any multi-meter readings..
On that note, I've never considered it meaningful advice (conduction grease) to bother trying, especially not at levels where it hinders access to the battery...

It's annoying that it comes off on my hands every time I swap the battery, which is often. I'm finally in the habit of holding it properly and not touching the threads, but there's usually at least a little smear of grease every time. Still worth it, though.

Battery life seems to fluctuate. I think it depends a great deal on how your bowl is packed
u/sllewgh on reddit, pivotal advocate of the grease, has that to say.

I say: fucking cbs mate :shrug:
Speaking as someone who has a back-end that gets hot and one that is proper, I notice those same random fluctuations across both my devices. The heat is also seemingly random but has persisted for its lifetime.

I might do some tests over the summer, but I find it hard to believe that there's not enough contact surface via the threads for ample transfer. If there is a resistance problem, my guess is it's internal.

The ultimate test will be trying some CPU heat-sink paste, a thermal compound that is electrically insulating. What then?
I have a spare body that kind of works, maybe I should find out...
 
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Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I'm really glad I never added the conductive grease to the fixes resource. I looked into it and it seemed risky. Some of that stuff is highly toxic, and even if it isn't in the air path it's best not to handle it if you don't have to.

It makes me think I should add a disclaimer to the fixes resource about voiding the warranty. Or is that too much?

I'm also wondering if I should remove the info about DeOxit. It seems safe and it has seemed to work for many people. On the other hand, that was pre Blu-Tac, which seems to be the best option now.
I think a disclaimer, and/or reposting of Caroline's email is very worthwhile.

Regarding deleting DeOxit, how about updating it saying with our experience, Blu Tac is preferred? Does that cover everything?

And another THANK YOU as the keeper of our resources page!
 

ChooChooCharlie

Well-Known Member
Charlie, when feeding the hopper, can you adjust the amount? Like, can you do a smaller load by only inserting it halfway? Or does it only work if you do the full insert?

Also, how good is the seal from the caps on the case(s)? Would you say it's airtight, or even waterproof? Would you trust it to keep your hopper bone dry even if it got splashed with water? or even dropped in water?

If you do a half-hearted single shake, less will be loaded, but it's not consistent. Designed for loose full pack of around 0.1. Best part is neatness and speed. Lid closes securely.

The case caps are thick and screw on tight, but not sure on the waterproof aspect. Odors are stopped I think, but I'm nose blind.
 

TheWhisper

Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I did see it before the link was removed. I've mentioned the D-020D or Mobius Matrix being on my wish-list twice in the last couple of pages, I know it's a go-to piece for a lot of members.

UNRELATED;
I've seen instructions about posting (linking) photos/videos to the forum and kinda understand it, but I do not know how to get the content up to say, Imgur site from my phone or laptop and still be fully confident about anonymity. Can someone point me to a tutorial or such? I believe maybe I also need to understand how to remove meta data from media files before uploading? Am I even close to describing the task correctly? I'm only describing the parts that I know I don't know! I did spend time on Imgur some months ago and my eyes glazed over with all the instruction for account preferences, sharing, etc.
Maybe so that not too many folks feel need to jump in, if someone would volunteer to send me something via pm, it would be much appreciated.
I have a recent Hopper mod to share, among other things! And something tells me it just can't be THAT hard. Just that I live in a backwards-ass state so I have to be somewhat discreet...

Quick anonymous image guide
(This is not the most secure, 100%-hardened guide in the world. It is good enough for posting most things on to FC)

1) Before even taking the photos, compose your images safely! Remove all identifiable things from both the background and foreground. A solid colored background made of a sheet of construction paper or similar is good. (If taking videos instead of still images, consider any background noise that may be present. That can be identifiable too!)

2) Take pictures. If your hands are in them, consider wearing non-identifiable gloves to hide fingerprints and other markings.

3) View metadata. If on Windows, you can view it by right-clicking a photo, selecting 'Properties', then go to the 'Details' tab. If on Mac, right-click a photo, select 'Get Info', then 'More Info'.

4) Remove EXIF metadata. There are many freeware tools available that strip EXIF (imgur even does this automatically when you upload images, but you're safer doing it locally yourself). Try http://www.exifpurge.com (it seems to be available on both Windows and Mac) or find one yourself on Google. After removing the metadata, confirm it's gone by repeating step 3.

5) Rename the image files. Your camera may use an identifiable name for the image files. It probably doesn't, but, since this is an easy step, there's no reason not to do it. Something like "image_001.jpg, image_002.jpg, etc" would work. You can do this like you would rename any file.

6) [optional] Access imgur through a VPN to obfuscate your IP. There are many basic VPN guides online, so I won't cover it in detail. And it's probably overkill for our purposes. But, I at least want to mention it so I'm thorough.

7) You do not need to make an account on imgur to upload images there! You can do it without one. (Note: While imgur is anonymous enough for most use cases, it is not the most secure you can get when uploading images to the web. You can most likely trust it for posting to here, but don't get complacent and use it in situations where more security may be required). On the top left of imgur, you will see a green button that says "New Post". To the right of that text, there is a small, downward-facing arrow. Click the arrow (not "New Post) and then click "Upload Images" (this may not actually make a difference, but I believe "New Post" will automatically submit it to imgur's new image queue for browsing; "Upload Images" doesn't. Not 100% on that). Click "Browse" then select all your images. You will then arrive on your album page. On the right side, click "Post Privacy" and ensure it's set to hidden. Do not click "Share to community", as that will make it appear to other imgur users.

8) [optional] Most cameras take pictures that have very large resolution. This may not be ideal for embedding on forums, as it can slow down page loading for people on slow connections. Luckily, imgur allows you to resize images after uploading them. Move your mouse over the first image and you will see a small element appear over the top right of the image. It will have a URL, the word "Copy", then a downward-facing arrow. Click the arrow then click "Edit image". In the top left, click "Crop/Resize". Over the top right of the image, you will see a small box containing: "{number} x {number}" and then a checkbox labeled "lock proportions" (ensure this is checked). Select the larger number and overwrite it with "1000". This should be adequate for most situations. Click "Apply" on the left of the image, then click "Save" above the image. You will be returned to the album page. Repeat this for all images you want to resize.

9) Embed each image individually on FC. Find the same downward-facing arrow on the top right of each image as in the previous step. Click it then click "Get share links". Look for "BBCode (Forums)" and click the "Copy" button next to that.

10) Open FC in a new tab, go to the thread you want to post on, and start a new post. Paste the BBCode that was copied to your clipboard in the previous step into the post where you want it. For multiple images, you will then repeat step 9 but for the next image down in your album.

11) Enjoy your extra 1000 words per image! You did it!
 

Icon13

Serial Vapist
think the lights are broken on my hopper as you can only see the leds through 2 holes and slightly through a third so if i have it the wrong way in the bubbler cant even tell if its on, wont be sending it in any time soon as it works like a charm other than that, maybe if you guys need stealth you will get lucky and it will break the same way as mine lol

Seriously? :doh: there are no "lights" in the Hopper. There is a "light" as in ONE light in the Hopper. If you cannot see it through the holes it is because the light is at a bad angle relative to the position of that hole. Don't believe me? Fill out a warranty request and they will do nothing and send it right back.
I just wanted to let everyone know i got one of the newer batteries the other day and so far it works much better than the 1st batch i had received. This could be bc it is brand new so only time will tell but so far so good.

The new ones have a slightly smaller diameter. They slide in the tube easier with less friction. This is good for the condition of the PVC wrap over time. That is the only difference I can see.
 
Last edited:

vapviking

Old & In the Way
Quick anonymous image guide
(This is not the most secure, 100%-hardened guide in the world. It is good enough for posting most things on to FC)

1) Before even taking the photos, compose your images safely! Remove all identifiable things from both the background and foreground. A solid colored background made of a sheet of construction paper or similar is good. (If taking videos instead of still images, consider any background noise that may be present. That can be identifiable too!)

2) Take pictures. If your hands are in them, consider wearing non-identifiable gloves to hide fingerprints and other markings.

3) View metadata. If on Windows, you can view it by right-clicking a photo, selecting 'Properties', then go to the 'Details' tab. If on Mac, right-click a photo, select 'Get Info', then 'More Info'.

4) Remove EXIF metadata. There are many freeware tools available that strip EXIF (imgur even does this automatically when you upload images, but you're safer doing it locally yourself). Try http://www.exifpurge.com (it seems to be available on both Windows and Mac) or find one yourself on Google. After removing the metadata, confirm it's gone by repeating step 3.

5) Rename the image files. Your camera may use an identifiable name for the image files. It probably doesn't, but, since this is an easy step, there's no reason not to do it. Something like "image_001.jpg, image_002.jpg, etc" would work. You can do this like you would rename any file.

6) [optional] Access imgur through a VPN to obfuscate your IP. There are many basic VPN guides online, so I won't cover it in detail. And it's probably overkill for our purposes. But, I at least want to mention it so I'm thorough.

7) You do not need to make an account on imgur to upload images there! You can do it without one. (Note: While imgur is anonymous enough for most use cases, it is not the most secure you can get when uploading images to the web. You can most likely trust it for posting to here, but don't get complacent and use it in situations where more security may be required). On the top left of imgur, you will see a green button that says "New Post". To the right of that text, there is a small, downward-facing arrow. Click the arrow (not "New Post) and then click "Upload Images" (this may not actually make a difference, but I believe "New Post" will automatically submit it to imgur's new image queue for browsing; "Upload Images" doesn't. Not 100% on that). Click "Browse" then select all your images. You will then arrive on your album page. On the right side, click "Post Privacy" and ensure it's set to hidden. Do not click "Share to community", as that will make it appear to other imgur users.

8) [optional] Most cameras take pictures that have very large resolution. This may not be ideal for embedding on forums, as it can slow down page loading for people on slow connections. Luckily, imgur allows you to resize images after uploading them. Move your mouse over the first image and you will see a small element appear over the top right of the image. It will have a URL, the word "Copy", then a downward-facing arrow. Click the arrow then click "Edit image". In the top left, click "Crop/Resize". Over the top right of the image, you will see a small box containing: "{number} x {number}" and then a checkbox labeled "lock proportions" (ensure this is checked). Select the larger number and overwrite it with "1000". This should be adequate for most situations. Click "Apply" on the left of the image, then click "Save" above the image. You will be returned to the album page. Repeat this for all images you want to resize.

9) Embed each image individually on FC. Find the same downward-facing arrow on the top right of each image as in the previous step. Click it then click "Get share links". Look for "BBCode (Forums)" and click the "Copy" button next to that.

10) Open FC in a new tab, go to the thread you want to post on, and start a new post. Paste the BBCode that was copied to your clipboard in the previous step into the post where you want it. For multiple images, you will then repeat step 9 but for the next image down in your album.

11) Enjoy your extra 1000 words per image! You did it!
Thank you, this is great, very helpful! I hope to get more familiar with it all in the coming days.

If after upload I arrive at my "album" (not having created account), do I name that album? How do I access that later? How does it let me find it later if it's private and I'm anonymous? sorry if these are maybe not pertinent questions.
 

VegNVape

Increase the Peace
Company Rep

But so many different glass parts? . . . . .
And the sucking tube connects to the orbiter through a short piece of silicon tube.
It becomes bendable this way.
O.k. so a little clarification . . . . this particular setup is thrown together from random bits I already had around the house. It could be done with far less (correctly fitting) glass parts - but then I would need to buy them. And where's the fun in that? :shrug:

Additionally, I should make it clear that the stem and F2F adapter are both 18mm, so I therefore also use a (bent) 18mm-14mm m2m GonG to connect them to the Orbiter.

I severely dislike using silicone if ever I can avoid it - and I would certainly never connect glass together using streched (subsequently spalled & potentially unhealthy) silicone tubing. Plus, I don't require a flexible stem/mouthpiece. Oh, and did I say? . . . I LOVE GonG!!!
Why not simply connect the hopper to the orbiter directly?
As @Mr.Sifter is saying, why not connect hopper direct?
Are you suggesting that I mate my naked, unprotected, anodized Ti Hopper directly with 14mm glass & risk scratching my beloved device?! I hope not! :disgust:

And of course, I don't want to use the silicone tip. So instead, I use my 18mm-14mm TonG in a 14mm-18mm m2f adapter - thus providing hands-free, scratch-free, silicone-free, Orbit-Hopping :)

Happy daze.

Are you with me? (There's room if we all scooch up)

. . . . Or I could use the silcone tip, & forgo the extension of the m2f adapter, like this . . . .
87MrRIR.jpg


But no. No thank you, I'll stick with the TonG . . .
Gf14E0x.jpg

But I got to think it's starting to look like that dorm room rig @moondog is referring to. And Idk about stability around cats...
Yeah & I love it. After all, I already have my VXL Hydratubes & a fairly varied selection of other glass bongs & bubblers - so for me, a little 'dorm room' jimmy-rig is a nice break from the norm. Besides, I really loved Meccano as a kid, so the ever-changing versatility of this setup suits me down to the ground :science:

4jIFMgP.jpg


As far as stability goes - the Orbiter alone is probably way more stable than it looks. Especially considering how small & light it is. And as it is general good practice to always remove GonGs from glassware whenever they are not in use, stability has never really been an issue for me & my lil' Orb :myday:

Obviously, YMMV.

How about adding a little natural feeling to this Ti powerhouse . . .
Yy5D0nl.jpg

Cheers @Ed's TnT :cheers:

P.s.
Very beatifull wooden floor you have there.
Thank you! That means a lot. Did it myself :tup:

g80B4lH.jpg


Hop till you drop! :ko:

Vt0MDi6.jpg


'NufLove.
:peace:
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I think a disclaimer, and/or reposting of Caroline's email is very worthwhile.

Regarding deleting DeOxit, how about updating it saying with our experience, Blu Tac is preferred? Does that cover everything?

And another THANK YOU as the keeper of our resources page!

Agree! I personally think Grease should not be mentioned. 'Tis a silly thing when we have Blue Tac and DetoxIT.

You can certainly post the warranty warning, couldn't hurt. Blue Tac is perfect - there is no residue; DetoxIT can be virtually undetectable and it is non-volatile, and is not to be applied excessively, but given that, it's nowhere near the awfulness of grease.

It's just that the idea of grease in the first place should have never been considered, IMO. So what, it's conductive, but so is shampoo and liquid soap. It's messy and therefore is abhorrent to my delicate sensibilities :D

Having said that... @Vapor_Eyes you have a good sense for what brushes against the lines of potential "warranty breaches", and I speak for all of us, surely, that we are grateful for your tending care of the Fix Resource!:clap:
 

Mr.Sifter

Well-Known Member
Oh dear,

four and a half days after receiving my hooper it stoped working.
It is not getting hot anymore.

Tried two fully loaded GHB2 Batteries fresh from the Xtar WP6.
No warm lips, no heat, no vapor, no hot back.

Faulty unit, he ?
I think the heat senso is broken.
when i let the hopper cool down and than click to activate, the LED turns form Red to Blue in half a second.
I can easily take a long draw even on level five without feeling it on the lips.
It's making a quiet ticking noise


not amused, this thing got me addicted

I'm from the EU.
I guess I´ll have to wait quite a while .... ggggrrrrrr
 
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Mr.Sifter,

duff

Well worn
the LED turns form Red to Blue in half a second

Exactly what happened to me last Friday.
On Friday, 10.14.16 filed a warranty request with as much detail as I could.
On Monday, 10.17.16 received a reply.
On Saturday, 10.22.16 received body replacement part.

On my week off I got reacquainted with the Crafty and I sort of forgot how nice that thing is.
Not the speed of the Grasshopper but wow.

I'm happy to have the Hopper back to pair with my new D020 that came in 9 days from China to Pennsylvania.
 

flyfishwino

Well-Known Member
@flyfishwino
Are you tamping it down? I don't recommend that. I find the hopper works best with a loose pack. I fill it full but loose, which actually only works out to a pinch. I get two or three huge hits and then reload.

I've tried packing it tight and I get less vapor and a hotter mouthpiece.

A properly functioning Grasshopper should give consistent, reliably satisfying results. I say stick with it and refine your technique. Hopefully you see continued improvement. If your results remain inconsistent I would recommend filing a warranty complaint. My broken Ti functioned at full capacity maybe 20% of the time, just when I was sure it was broken I would have a good chamber.

I've pretty much paid attention to all your collective advice and can not get a satisfying hit off of this.
Just tried a different strain, at 3.5 to 4.5 Temps. Felt the heat at the back of my throat, not very comfortable, tasted a mild hint, but not great flavor of the herb. Saw modest , at best, hint of vapor. I did get a bit medicated.
2 choices sell it and go for something like a crafty or mighty, which seem to be more of a point and shoot and do not need to spend a week figuring out if it works or if I have to adjust my draw by 10% up or down, is my herb dry enough , too dry,...
Or get it fixed, which I might get a working unit back, but still might not like and then would be unable to transfer the warranty.
Decisions decisions
Thanks everyone for all your feedback
 
flyfishwino,

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
I've pretty much paid attention to all your collective advice and can not get a satisfying hit off of this.
Just tried a different strain, at 3.5 to 4.5 Temps. Felt the heat at the back of my throat, not very comfortable, tasted a mild hint, but not great flavor of the herb. Saw modest , at best, hint of vapor. I did get a bit medicated.
2 choices sell it and go for something like a crafty or mighty, which seem to be more of a point and shoot and do not need to spend a week figuring out if it works or if I have to adjust my draw by 10% up or down, is my herb dry enough , too dry,...
Or get it fixed, which I might get a working unit back, but still might not like and then would be unable to transfer the warranty.
Decisions decisions
Thanks everyone for all your feedback

OK, I have one more question... have you tried the hopper through water? I only ask because that would certainly be a way to really see what was being produced... say on T4 as a minimum.

Short of this, Fly, I'd wonder if it just wasn't the right device for me.
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
A question for all of you hoppers...

I just noticed something I think is odd with my ss gh. When unscrewing it to change the battery, I saw a brief red light. When I replaced the battery and was screwing it closed, the same thing happened. It's like there's a spot during threading that creates a live circuit (my unit was off during this battery change). I didn't notice any heat at the time of the red light-up.

Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Mr. Me2,
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