Discontinued The Grasshopper

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
Thanks All. Just trying to have what I need in advance of the long awaited glorious shipping confirmation.

Can someone post a link to the shipping thread? Trying to see where I stand in line.
August 2015 pre order
you should get an address confirmation any day now, I got mine a few days ago, July 24th pre-order. Still waiting on shipping confirmation though
 

ZC

Well-Known Member
Has there been any solutions for the silicone mouthpiece? A third party replacement with black silicone would be nice.

Really anything that would give similar results without looking so nasty.
 

HerbieVonVapster

Well-Known Member
Has there been any solutions for the silicone mouthpiece? A third party replacement with black silicone would be nice.

Really anything that would give similar results without looking so nasty.

Try 3d studios for a mouth piece. Kinda surprised ratchett's store doesn't have one listed. I would still think something there still might work. I been using his mighty water adapter works ok. Hopefully ratchet chimes in.
 
HerbieVonVapster,

GreenHopper

20 going on 60
Thought this was a great post by u/Reeces_Pieces over on Reddit, so I decided to bring it here:

Title: Hopper was stuck on Red/Blue flashing (Sensor Damage) Lights. here's how I fixed it

*UPDATE: looks like the post has been deleted for some reason*

https://m.reddit.com/r/GrassHopperVape/comments/4tyxi9/hopper_was_stuck_on_redblue_flashing_sensor/

Summary: Full clean of backend threads and the gap below the temp control brought hopper back from the red/blue (or was it blue/red, meh) lights of death.

r/GrassHopperVape

Hopper was stuck on Red/Blue flashing (Sensor Damage) Lights. here's how I fixed it

u/Reeces_Pieces10m

I should pre-face this by saying that I could tell my Hopper needed to be cleaned and it had been about 2 weeks since I last cleaned it. However, it still worked fairly well and I would scrape out abv with a dry q-tip after using it and I was fairly busy, so I kept putting it off.

Well this morning I thought to myself "I should really clean my GH. I will right after I vape 1 bowl." So I go to do that and I get the sensor damage LEDs. Tried it again and same shit.

1st I went ahead and cleaned it with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol and then let the front end soak for a few minutes before going back and scrubbing it with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol again. I then carefully cleaned the battery contact on the back-end as well as the threads on the back-end with a q-tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol. I noticed a good bit of black gunk coming off on the q-tips whilst cleaning the back-end battery contact and back-end threads. Then, I left my GH in it's 3 separate pieces and left it out to dry for 20 minutes.

The next time I tried to use it I got the "Straight to Blue" problem. The LED would stay red for like 1 second and then immediately turn blue and no heat would be produced while drawing.

Well then, I unscrewed the back-end and put in a different battery(I'm pretty sure it's removing the back-end and putting it back on that helped here, not changing the battery). Then, I fiddled with the temp dial; turning it all the way back and forth a few times and I noticed that as I moved it, some solid black gunk came out from the small gap on the back-end that is under the temp dial (note: I usually never touch the temp dial and just leave it on 5). I wiped this black gunk off of my hopper now that it had been exposed.

I then left it on temp. 3 and took a draw and it worked fine. Then I changed it back to 5 and it still worked fine and it is back to being normal. Just put in the other battery and it works as well.

What is that black gunk you ask? I'm pretty confident that it is grease/oil/sweat from being touched by human skin. It can happen during the manufacturing and repair processes and it can also happen by being handheld by ,you, the user. All of those places where the gunk had built up was a result of holding my back-end piece with my bare hands. If you are screwing and unscrewing your back-end frequently like I am you will be more prone to this. Also, if you never move your temp dial too much you will have a similar problem on the gap of your back-end. The gunk will get caught there and will only be forced out by moving the temp dial.

The black gunk is not electrically conductive and will cause all sorts of electrical problems such as voltage drop.

So, make sure your back-end is clean(the threads and battery contact especially) and don't forget that gunk can also build up in the gap under the temp dial and to just move the temp dial back and forth to force it outside the gap where you can wipe it off.
 
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akwardsauce

gold all in my chains...dont believe me just watch
Has there been any solutions for the silicone mouthpiece? A third party replacement with black silicone would be nice.

Really anything that would give similar results without looking so nasty.

so i mentioned that if you go to a "vape shop" (aka e-cig store aka e-liquid store or even sometimes a smoke shop) you can get these little silicone sleeves that fit around the generic e-cigs (the ones that are the diameter of an actual cigarette butt) and stretch them around the tip of the GH. they work very well for me, arent too bulky, and do not discolor since you can squish them up above the mouthpiece-hole. lemme dig for my old post of it...here it is (from here https://www.reddit.com/r/GrassHoppe...t_your_free_14mm_silicone_adapter_that_might/):

"get your free 14mm silicone adapter that might not stain! edit: look around for these: http://www.dhresource.com/0x0s/f2-a.../electronic-cigarette-silicone-mouthpiece.jpg

pic 1 - these are cylindrical silicone tubes that you can stretch over the GH mouthpiece: http://imgur.com/4n3nTyM

pic 2 - dif angle: http://imgur.com/v9Z6OPz

find them usually free at the flavor section of the ecig stores used to sample dif flavors! cut em up and use just the ring part around the wide diameter also for sleeker look!"

btw, this is all i used and mine never stained (and theyre FREE!!!)

Aaahhh! Tomorrow is the day I get my hopper! I'm so fucking anxious. The major downside is that I need to pay ~U$138 in my local post office in customs taxes.
yikes thats harsh like my faulty gh on max! do you have to pay that if you send it for repairs also!?!? $138 is seriously overboard.
 
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ZC

Well-Known Member
@akwardsauce

Thanks for the links!

I'm looking at the e-cig ones and I'm wondering if the reason they don't stain is that they leave so much of the mouthpiece actually exposed. Since there's something like 1/16" of metal exposed, none of the vapor actually touches the silicon. So maybe you could get similar results with the stock silicon by simply cutting it a bit.
 

kingfisher

Well-Known Member
Has anyone experienced any odd operating phenomenon due to magnetism?

My case for my batteries has a magnet in the bottom. It's weak, and I'm not sure if there were any adverse effects.
 
kingfisher,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Thought this was a great post by u/Reeces_Pieces over on Reddit, so I decided to bring it here:

Title: Hopper was stuck on Red/Blue flashing (Sensor Damage) Lights. here's how I fixed it

*UPDATE: looks like the post has been deleted for some reason*

https://m.reddit.com/r/GrassHopperVape/comments/4tyxi9/hopper_was_stuck_on_redblue_flashing_sensor/

Summary: Full clean of backend threads and the gap below the temp control brought hopper back from the red/blue (or was it blue/red, meh) lights of death.
Ok, I am starting to wonder here if the screen in the bottom of the hopper bowl might be insufficient to keep gunk from getting into the back end of the unit? For resin to buildup in the back end, it seems like it would have to travel through this screen and past the heater.

Can anyone help me out with the internals of the GH a bit, does anyone know what the airpath past the heater is and how one might end up with gunk under the temp dial? I also wonder; is it more likely that the gunk is from excess errl stuck to the user's hands when turning the device on perhaps?

I would be quite concerned if the gunk were somehow getting to the back end through the inside of the unit. That would make me question the isolation of the battery/electronics from the vapor path!

Also I wonder if perhaps the gunk was machining oil from manufacturing? I know as many of you do that SS and Ti components are often liable to show up covered in manufacturing oils with a lot of vape products.

In order to prevent any chance of gunk getting through the bottom screen, it might be worth stuffing a solid layer of thick safe SS wool (S & B concentrate pad for example, cut to size if necessary) on top of the bottom screen to keep resin from oozing the wrong way ;)
 
herbivore21,
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ZC

Well-Known Member
I don't think there's any way herb is getting past the heater all the way to the temp gauge. The battery compartment is between them and seems to be sealed, and you don't see any gunk accumulating in the battery or in its compartment.

I think it's pretty safe to say the stuff they found on the temp gauge is from the other outside world.


That all said I got my hopper! No leather case. I saw mention that they'll be shipped later but I'm going to email just to be sure.

The purple ti is a bit strange, there seems to be some discoloration. It's rainbows, kind of the way a vaocap cap gets discolored with use.

Batteries came fully charged.

Haven't taken a hit yet, will later tonight.
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
I don't think there's any way herb is getting past the heater all the way to the temp gauge. The battery compartment is between them and seems to be sealed, and you don't see any gunk accumulating in the battery or in its compartment.

I think it's pretty safe to say the stuff they found on the temp gauge is from the other outside world.


That all said I got my hopper! No leather case. I saw mention that they'll be shipped later but I'm going to email just to be sure.

The purple ti is a bit strange, there seems to be some discoloration. It's rainbows, kind of the way a vaocap cap gets discolored with use.

Batteries came fully charged.

Haven't taken a hit yet, will later tonight.
Yeah it seems to me like if there was resin getting past the heater and to the back end there, that this would be a very obvious oversight for a couple of nasa engineers lol!

I do think we'll find this was either manufacturing oil or somebody got some dabs stuck on the back of their pen and just tried to smear it off, pushing it under the temp control part or similar (perhaps put the pen down on the wrong slick mat or something lol).

The uneven color will be from uneven anodization. Electrical current is run through the titanium to give it the purple color. Your description would indicate uneven anodization at certain points on the body I believe.
 

ZC

Well-Known Member
That makes sense. Kind if a bummer because you know, I payed for a purple vape. Not a mostly purple vape.

But I've waited so long for this thing I don't want to bother making a fuss to GHL, I'm just glad to have it. But I wanted others ordering to know before they buy a color ti that I guess some of them are discolored and not at all perfectly colored like in the marketing pics.

EDIT:

So first impressions are good! Back end isn't hot -yet.

Direct hits get the mouthpiece hot, as expected. But the vapor isn't as harsh as I expected and the taste is excellent.

And then there's water. Which is really what convinced me to buy this thing and definitely where it excels. Heats up fast and just doesn't stop producing. It's a pocket cloud machine.

I almost cancelled my order several times, but I'm glad I didn't.
 
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Gramin

Well-Known Member
The tiny holes that run around the top of the chamber are pretty much blocked on my unit due to how I fill it. Are these airway holes I need to keep unclogged? Might have to change my filling method...

Y4SawvN.jpg
 
Gramin,

Hammahead

Well-Known Member
If you're getting the low battery red flash lights, is it still dishing out heat power to take a draw at the higher temps?
In my experience not even the last draw before the low bat lights come is really as hot as expected.
Take a look at the whip @Ratchett is using (further up this page). Maybe he can tell us what diameter that tubing is..?
Don't know what he uses, I found the silicone tubing for the Aromed vaporizer works just fine, that's supposed to be 10mm diameter.
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
Aaahhh! Tomorrow is the day I get my hopper! I'm so fucking anxious. The major downside is that I need to pay ~U$138 in my local post office in customs taxes.
I'm REALLY looking forward to you getting yours (crazy customs fees, aside)! And I hope it's a perfect one!!!

And are you coming down with a little bug (no pun intended)? You may have to take a sick day today and miss work.;)
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
The tiny holes that run around the top of the chamber are pretty much blocked on my unit due to how I fill it. Are these airway holes I need to keep unclogged? Might have to change my filling method...

Y4SawvN.jpg
Wipe any material off the outside rim (with holes) as otherwise it will get into the threads of the mouthpiece. It's not a big issue, but if you make sure the top is clean before twisting the MP on, it will stay clean longer and twist on and off more smoothly.

Also, try loading only a tiny bit of bud in the chamber. I've found I tend to use too much, I still seem to get a couple of good hits regardless of pack amount. If you are using less just inhale slower and you get similar density hits.
 
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