Discontinued The Grasshopper

[jules172]

Heads up- achievement unlocked: same day shipping!! upgraded to ti with pfe. Excited to get it for the holiday weekend.

 

[Mr. Me2]

This is one of the easiest portables that I've used. Not having to stir and having even ABV plus great vapor flavor. It's very easy to maintain which makes this unit one of my favorites. I like ease of use and easy to clean. There doesn't seem to be a build up of resin on the inside of the oven. I just dump my ABV and the screen comes clean.

Its good for on the go but also at home using a water tool, you don't even need a GonG if your tool is 14mm. It's great just plain dry. Whatever way you decide to use this little portable is the right way.

It's a very convenient unit for the medical patient or the recreational user that's out on the night. It does not draw attention to itself other than the blue or red lights. It's easily hidden by your fingers anyways.

And this coming from a cautious long time observer and follower! I'm so happy to hear you're happy, @CarolKing !!!

 

[Baron23]

@ktmstick it sounds like your hopper isn't getting hot enough. The ABV should be turning a darker brown color. You maybe should think about sending it in for a warranty. A pale green color isn't good, you still have a lot of active ingredients in your herb still. Have you tried using a different battery?

I agree with Carol....you should be able to get dark brown AVB, particularly if you are cashing the load at temp 5.

No....light green ain't it, mate. RMA time, I believe.

 

[JoeMama]

Thank you, evvybuddy!

Myself I only use the PFE with glass because I prefer the standard mouthpiece. Why? perhaps habit? I can't quite put my finger on it but for native use I still prefer the pen tip.

The draw is definitely much better. However, mine gets hot as fuck (hotter than the original MP). The silicone doesn't really fit it and now I can't find the silicone...
ETA:
Ok, scratch that. Managed to find the silicone several minutes into a session. You can make it work and, if yours gets as hot as mine, it makes a huge difference.

@JoeMama:

About the PFE, I agree with @Mr Mellish, better airflow but it gets hot quicker. The better airflow isn't enough of a difference for me to prefer using it native, but it seems to be the way to go with water even though I can't test it yet.

If you are sensitive to airflow it's probably easier to justify the purchase. In that case, even a small improvement would be well worth it. For me, it's not as big of a concern, the airflow with the stock mouthpiece is acceptable.

Hey, Joe! (not the song, the mama...)
I love the pfe. I picked one up when they were first released a couple of months ago.
Use is currently about 50/50 dry and water.
...
There are no funnels inside and the screen is set differently, not as many places to collect/hold oils.
The screen can not work itself loose like the standard can. The standard can get stuck to the body and loosen when mp is unscrewed because they share the same thread way inside the mp. The pfe has a fixed ring inside that separates the screen from the body, greatly reducing risk of clogged threads. And forget those precision tweezers!
The standard is fussy in that small amount of flower will clog threads easily and clog screen sooner than with pfe. If that is one of the sources of your draw frustration, order a pfe right away!

The draw is less restricted, a little smoother with the pfe, but one additional comment I can make is about general draw restriction that can creep in over time with hoppers. The last couple of rma'd hoppers have come back with better draw that when they went to hospital. I don't think it's better than a clean/never-used hopper, rather the insides had become clogged somehow (I think...?). So it could be that your current hard draw is due to that internal clog. I was very worried a while back, that this would be the 'Achille's Heel' of all hoppers, but the most recent iterations have been good about draw for months now... (to empty, I rap it on wood and often take one hard draw with mp off, to hopefully suck out lingering debris). And I've pretty much stopped using iso inside the chamber, but I don't know for certain if this is helping.

My original impression was that pfe stays cooler after a few draws, but this is only minimally true. It will get hot if you take some hits in succession just like the standard, though the first 2-3 will be a bit insulated due to the sheer mass of the pfe. Then it will take a little longer to cool.

I have been using the new FPE on both my SS and Titanium units for the last week or so. I do not use it with glass, but have replaced the original MP with these. I like them a lot. Much less draw resistance. Much cooler to the touch. Experimenting, I've tried heavy inhalation draws and light inhalation draws. Long, deep draws were pretty massive (I use temp setting 5). I have found taking shorter draws (6 a 8 seconds) are optimal for me - I did find if I tried to take lighter inhalation in the draw with the FPE the autoshutoff kicked on.

My spouse even commented on how much cooler it draws with the FPE than the old MP.

I like it a lot.

Based on all of these helpful inputs, I've decided that since I'm a one-hit type of user (umpteen times a day, I just hit once every hour or two), methinks that the PFE will be a good thing. It won't get too hot that way, and I believe I'll be able to take a draw that's more like a "breath" than a "draw".

I have a Raw Ti and a Grey one, but I'll buy just one for now and see how that goes.

Thanks again, friends!

 

[MonkeyTime]

I have a ss hopper that I love. The problem I have is I can never get the abv to brown, only a pale green color. I can extract everything at 4-4.2 then try 1 hit at 5 and get very little extra out if it. If I then take that abv and put it in another vape at around 200, I have tried several, I get lots more hits out of it. Abv also comes out a more suitable color. I have delayed the process and the effect is very noticeable from the spent gh abv in another vape.

Backend gets hot

Sometimes straight to red led but has never failed me, always able to resolve with a power cycle/ backend remove etc.

Do you think this sounds like a poor performing hopper?

Yes, but I agree with @almost there , I sent in my similar producing unit and got it back in the same state. Not saying you couldn't/shouldn't try, just keep your expectations relative.

 

[slcbdco]

I've decided that since I'm a one-hit type of user (umpteen times a day, I just hit once every hour or two),

That's exactly how I use it most of the day! ... well maybe more like every half hour or two for me umpthirty times a day

 

[GrandWazoo]

Hi to everyone , nice to meet you again since long time... It took over one month to get the batteries from USA to Europe , here we can't find them. Anyway I was so happy to have my SS back in use again, but it didn't work ! Red light ten , fifteen seconds and then nothing . Sometimes it did heat and became blue , sometimes not , sometimes it did work simply starting with temp one and then to four only when blue . I did notice that the temp regulator was very hard and so I decided to clean it all with an expecial spray for electrical contacts . No results , same problem , probably this product was too dry . So I tried with compressed air , all the way , but nothing changed . I really didn't want to send it to the labs , it would significate sure doing holydays without , so I tried all the possible ways. Finally I did spray the part with WD 40 which is also lubricant , in fact the temp reg immediately became softer . 24 hours to wait till dry and it did work and work great again . And plus now I got four new batteries , so now I'm a rich man . Have a nice weekend , like I certainly will !

 

[Baron23]

Hi to everyone , nice to meet you again since long time... It took over one month to get the batteries from USA to Europe , here we can't find them. Anyway I was so happy to have my SS back in use again, but it didn't work ! Red light ten , fifteen seconds and then nothing . Sometimes it did heat and became blue , sometimes not , sometimes it did work simply starting with temp one and then to four only when blue . I did notice that the temp regulator was very hard and so I decided to clean it all with an expecial spray for electrical contacts . No results , same problem , probably this product was too dry . So I tried with compressed air , all the way , but nothing changed . I really didn't want to send it to the labs , it would significate sure doing holydays without , so I tried all the possible ways. Finally I did spray the part with WD 40 which is also lubricant , in fact the temp reg immediately became softer . 24 hours to wait till dry and it did work and work great again . And plus now I got four new batteries , so now I'm a rich man . Have a nice weekend , like I certainly will !

You know that WD stands for water displacement and this was the 40th formulation that they tried?

It does work well on damp and corroded contacts. Not sure what your issue was but I hope your GH keeps on working perfectly.

 

[CarolKing]

Hi to everyone , nice to meet you again since long time... It took over one month to get the batteries from USA to Europe , here we can't find them. Anyway I was so happy to have my SS back in use again, but it didn't work ! Red light ten , fifteen seconds and then nothing . Sometimes it did heat and became blue , sometimes not , sometimes it did work simply starting with temp one and then to four only when blue . I did notice that the temp regulator was very hard and so I decided to clean it all with an expecial spray for electrical contacts . No results , same problem , probably this product was too dry . So I tried with compressed air , all the way , but nothing changed . I really didn't want to send it to the labs , it would significate sure doing holydays without , so I tried all the possible ways. Finally I did spray the part with WD 40 which is also lubricant , in fact the temp reg immediately became softer . 24 hours to wait till dry and it did work and work great again . And plus now I got four new batteries , so now I'm a rich man . Have a nice weekend , like I certainly will !

Can you get batteries from Vapefiend? I've never ordered from them. I live in the U.S. I know they sell the GH

 

[vapviking]

omg, uh,

Happy Page 700 ?!?!?!
It's like the War and Peace of vape threads.

 

[Shieldsab]

My SS GH is still getting rather heavy daily use. 3 or 4 battery changes some days. It still hits like a rocket as long as the battery has power. It's been over 7 months since I got it and I've used it daily for all but 2 or 3 of those. I have just placed an order for a PFE and two new batteries, as my B1 is pretty much unusable now, and my B2's are starting to require charging more often. Also the wrapping is cracking on the negative end of one.

 

[AJS]

Whether my GH is working 100% perfectly...75%, 12%, idc ... it rips.

Sorry for the weird lighting

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUoHWhOAsEZ/?taken-by=ajs_fc_

 

[ChooChooCharlie]

omg, uh,

Happy Page 700 ?!?!?!
It's like the War and Peace of vape threads.

Certainly not the 700 club.

More like DCC comics.

Filled with the tales of Hopper Heroes, ready in five seconds to fight the villains of boredom and dis-ease.

 

[GrandWazoo]

Can you get batteries from Vapefiend? I've never ordered from them. I live in the U.S. I know they sell the GH

I just controlled and now they are in stock again ( not so last week ). 10 Eur instead of 7 , but probably it takes few days because they are in ( Europe ) . When UK will be out definitively it will be another problem ,
for the happyness of everybody.

 

[snaffle]

Hi folks. Happy hopper user here for about the last 6 months (and have lurked all that time), I have been lucky enough to have had a pretty reliable experience, no warranty needed so far (I have a hot backend, but am still happy with the performance). Prior to that I had a Vapir No2 that I used exclusively for years, so needless to say, this was quite the upgrade!

I wanted to ask about draw techniques / tips you guys have. I tend to go for the slow then fast cycles, like VaporEyes uses, just because it seems to work reasonably, but I haven't really played about with different draws much. Hopper Labs say that you can hit it however and it will be effective, but it definitely seems to change the vapor quality some way. So, how are y'all hitting it?

I'm curious about the PFE - does anyone have the Ti one yet? I see lots of people talking about it gets hot when used directly, which is interesting, but I wonder whether the Ti version will do better on that score. To be honest I don't really mind the draw restriction of the regular mouthpiece, but maybe that's just based on my lack of experience with lots of other vapes.

 

[AJS]

Hi folks. Happy hopper user here for about the last 6 months (and have lurked all that time), I have been lucky enough to have had a pretty reliable experience, no warranty needed so far (I have a hot backend, but am still happy with the performance). Prior to that I had a Vapir No2 that I used exclusively for years, so needless to say, this was quite the upgrade!

I wanted to ask about draw techniques / tips you guys have. I tend to go for the slow then fast cycles, like VaporEyes uses, just because it seems to work reasonably, but I haven't really played about with different draws much. Hopper Labs say that you can hit it however and it will be effective, but it definitely seems to change the vapor quality some way. So, how are y'all hitting it?

I'm curious about the PFE - does anyone have the Ti one yet? I see lots of people talking about it gets hot when used directly, which is interesting, but I wonder whether the Ti version will do better on that score. To be honest I don't really mind the draw restriction of the regular mouthpiece, but maybe that's just based on my lack of experience with lots of other vapes.

I have found vapor likes consistency. I pull just enough to hear the whistle thru the airholes.

Just fast enough to keep the heater going but slow enough to not pull too much air. I like my vapor thick. Also pulling harder is harsh on throat when native and not thick enough through water.

 

[MoltenTiger]

I'm curious about the PFE - does anyone have the Ti one yet?

My HL parcel has been stuck in Chicago for a week now, but when it finally arrives down under I'll be doing a little comparison of the SS/Ti PFE.
I'll suss the finish, durability, weight and the thermal differences.

From what I've read, the PFE is best suited for water pipe usage, however some have much preferred it and have replaced the front-end to it permanently. I am expecting to do the same, but I'd like to explore some pros/cons relative to different usage styles.

Straight up, the Ti PFE will heat up and cool down slightly faster and it will be noticeably lighter, but I'll try and decide what the price difference pays for.
The main reason I personally opted for the Ti PFE was to achieve the lightest option to avoid tipping one of my glass rigs when it's connected. I am pretty sure it will still tip regardless, but it made sense to go full Ti and take the $10 gamble

I have found vapor likes consistency

I agree, there would be an optimised airflow through the hopper (dependant on pack density/quantity), and fluctuating airspeed (although it works pretty decently in the hopper due to its rapid heater) will prevent the heater from dispersing its energy as evenly and would also cause wider fluctuations in temp.
The hopper is built to heat up only to the selected temp, so a consistent toke will offer the chambers material the best potential for the most rapid extraction and the biggest clouds.

___________________________
HL have released a new blog post;

BEST PRACTICES
The Hopper Labs team and customers sat down last week to come up with a list of Grasshopper best practices. The following tips are the results of that session. These tips will keep your unit in great shape. See our YouTube Channel for more!

1. Don't overfill your chamber. A loose pack will give you better airflow and faster extraction. If you are packing your chamber tight there is less room for hot air to vaporize your herbs. You'll have to take longer, slower draws, which are not ideal for the Hopper.

2. Turn the device off 5 seconds before your draw is over. Clicking your Hopper off a little before the end of your draw will help clear out any hot vapor, keeping your unit cool and giving you maximum extraction.

3. Keep your Hopper off as much as possible. The Hopper's fast heat up time means you should have the device off all of the time you are not drawing on it. Click it on, draw right after the lights turn blue and switch it off 5 seconds before you're done. Not only will you be extending your battery life but your device will stay cooler, and you'll get more out of you herbs.

4. Place your lips further back on the mouthpiece. The Grasshopper has a tapered mouthpiece, and the narrower the taper gets, the closer your lips will be to that hot stream of vapor. If your taking longer draws put your lips further back.

5. Swap your batteries. Keep spare batteries on hand and recycle older ones once they start to show their age. The Hopper was meant to have the battery changed. Early and often is the best way to maintain optimal performance. Nothing is going to affect your Hopper more than a worn out battery. Blog Post on Hopper Batteries here.

6. Keep it Clean. A sure way to problems is allowing your device to build up resin or plant material where it shouldn't be. Swabbing out you chamber with a dry q-tip at the end of your session is an easy first step. See our full blog post on cleaning.


Definitely worth a read, I'll be taking more care with the hoppers when I finally get the chance to.
I can definitely see some relation between points 1, 2/3 & 6 and my device faults

 

[duff]

I've got to say I'm itching to try the PFE.
Here are the best couple of hits I've had with the Hopper in a long time.

I'm wondering if there was a break-in period associated to changes/repairs made during my last RMA.
Performance has been pretty anemic since it's return but it also returned right when I was honeymooning with three different vapes, so it wasn't getting much use.

 

[snaffle]

I agree, there would be an optimised airflow through the hopper (dependant on pack density/quantity), and fluctuating airspeed (although it works pretty decently in the hopper due to its rapid heater) will prevent the heater from dispersing its energy as evenly and would also cause wider fluctuations in temp.
The hopper is built to heat up only to the selected temp, so a consistent toke will offer the chambers material the best potential for the most rapid extraction and the biggest clouds.

Ah, that's interesting, I hadn't thought of that. I'll play more with consistent pulling. When I try to pull slow the auto-shutoff tends to get in the way, but I suppose it's all a matter of playing around more and seeing what works best.

 

[vapviking]

Ah, that's interesting, I hadn't thought of that. I'll play more with consistent pulling. When I try to pull slow the auto-shutoff tends to get in the way, but I suppose it's all a matter of playing around more and seeing what works best.

Hi, welcome to the forum!
I also go with a consistent draw, but usually punctuated by one or two short, strong puffs, like, before shutting off (shutting off like recommended in the Best Practices blog post shown above).
If you'er not doing the early shut-off, then the short burst can keep the auto-standby from engaging for a little longer.
I find that sometimes the strongest vape kicks in even after the early shutoff!

Hey, @duff , if you find great hits happening, I suggest keeping that battery in the device and attaching to factory charger right after session. Batts, batts, batts, like that blog post says!

As a general comment, I'm so glad to hear some good reports from happy hoppers lately! I'm vaping vicariously through you all atm!

 

[duff]

Thanks @vapviking.
Got four new bats a week before I got my RMA back and pitched my old ones.

I'm going to test this battery some more then try a different one.
I'm relieved it's working better.

 

[btka]

Hi folks. Happy hopper user here for about the last 6 months (and have lurked all that time), I have been lucky enough to have had a pretty reliable experience, no warranty needed so far (I have a hot backend, but am still happy with the performance). Prior to that I had a Vapir No2 that I used exclusively for years, so needless to say, this was quite the upgrade!

I wanted to ask about draw techniques / tips you guys have. I tend to go for the slow then fast cycles, like VaporEyes uses, just because it seems to work reasonably, but I haven't really played about with different draws much. Hopper Labs say that you can hit it however and it will be effective, but it definitely seems to change the vapor quality some way. So, how are y'all hitting it?

I'm curious about the PFE - does anyone have the Ti one yet? I see lots of people talking about it gets hot when used directly, which is interesting, but I wonder whether the Ti version will do better on that score. To be honest I don't really mind the draw restriction of the regular mouthpiece, but maybe that's just based on my lack of experience with lots of other vapes.

I like to take a primer draw (puff)... after this you will get immediately vapor.... if not I have to draw for 4 to 6 sec. after that I will get vapor...

 

[PPN]

Just received today a dark grey titanium GH from another great member (my first GH!), it looks like it gone through a war but works perfectly!

More thoughts for later...

 

[GrandWazoo]

I begin early in the morning with 3 and end in the evening at 4 . Take at least 2 hits , cause the first don't get much vapor .When I want some harder , 3 or 4 ten seconds hits . It would be nice to click it out at the end of drawing , but I ALWAYS forget to do this . I've done it maybe 3 times in one year , but yes, it would be a good thing.

 

[AJS]

Cloud cloud cloud.

https://instagram.com/p/BUr4wrkALba/