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The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

I ordered an Eq at half price yesterday ($135 shipped). When it gets here and is up and running, I can finally send my Volcano Hybrid in to get the display fixed. I will use the whip, hopefully it is in the same league as the 'cano for temp control.
Tried it out today. The 90* whip adapter is stuck in the stock chamber they give you, and I can't get it apart. Is there a trick with the 18mm joint which will get really hot, so it comes apart after use? Can't dump the ABV, and it just sits there baking cause the parts are stuck together. I tried heating it with water in case some oil had gotten on the mating surface.
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
You can try rocking the joint slightly, that should get it loose. Do not twist if you can avoid it. When you get them apart you can use a little bees wax the help with this problem, just a tiny amount is all you need.
 

MasterChief

Well-Known Member
So I got the EQ. I wanted to know what your technique for the best results. What temp to use for the whip? What about for the balloon? How long do you preheat? Do you let your herb preheat? Do you pack loose or tight?
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
So I got the EQ. I wanted to know what your technique for the best results. What temp to use for the whip? What about for the balloon? How long do you preheat? Do you let your herb preheat? Do you pack loose or tight?
Whatever your need’s R?
One degree from your boiling point?
Just do it!
Enjoy.
Q = uplifting
15minute pre-heat is my guess? (Seem’s 2 work)
Loose pack normally!
 
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herbasam

New Member
So, I emailed Arizer and asked about this. Kevin from Arizer replied:
"After speaking with our engineers I am told that the appearance of this piece is normal -- it is a bracing part for the ceramic heater made out of a blend of ceramic and mica, it's non-toxic and safe unless exposed to open flame. Being that this part comes into direct contact to the ceramic core to brace it, after use it will appear like this because it can soften very slightly when the unit is heating, but rest-assured it is completely safe to use; it does not pose any health or safety concerns. "

So, according to the engineers the melting is normal, i.e., expected! And the piece is supposed to be mica+ceramic. Note that others have posted that they've been told it's just mica by Arizer. Anyways, from the information I can gather a mica ceramic blend should not melt at the temperatures reached by the heater.
I replied and asked for the exact material of the piece and got no answer (10 days ago)
I asked to them respond to this thread and they didnt. Not officially that is...

My conclusion: fuck them and I'll never touch my EQ again (got a LSV instead)
could I get a picture please
 

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
So I got the EQ. I wanted to know what your technique for the best results. What temp to use for the whip? What about for the balloon? How long do you preheat? Do you let your herb preheat? Do you pack loose or tight?

420F*
Whip / Stubby glass piece
(I don't balloon)
I do not preheat
It takes roughly 10 minutes to produce vapor
I take a draw, and if I get vapor, I sip on it for about a half an hour or when vapor stops.
I don't grind (I pick apart bud with fingers)

*Strangely high considering I run my AIR I on the lowest setting (blue light aka 356F), and love it there; however, with this beast I haven't found a better temp range. For reference, the highest setting on the AIR I (red light, 410F) is still less than the EQ, yet the EQ at +10F tastes just as good to me as the AIR I at a lower temp range. My guess is that it has to do with the chamber volume size...356F on a really small chamber versus 420F on a chamber substantially larger (relative in size).
 

daoist

Well-Known Member
So I got the EQ. I wanted to know what your technique for the best results. What temp to use for the whip? What about for the balloon? How long do you preheat? Do you let your herb preheat? Do you pack loose or tight?
I use the EQ at 185 degree celcius, than i temperature surf to 195 celsius. I just keep the ABV to finish off in my mighty at 210.
The pre heat is about 5 minutes. then little vape comes out but very tasty, but at about 8 minutes you can get full thick vapor.
I personally don't preheat to long because vapor is to thick. for the first couple of hits. But you may like it. you can get super white vape bags if you pre heat for 10 to 15 minutes or so, but that is pretty intense. So i just start vaping after 5 minutes.

I like the balloons at fan speed 1. With the whip i just use the all glass elbow with glass screen for best flavour, that is optional arizer part. They have a balloon glas-whip to with the glass filter but the vaposhop fucked up my order, so i have not tried it.

I often use the whip or the balloon on a bong. The balloons are nice (i got the big balloons) which let you take 5 or 6 hits. per balloon.
I think the balloons at fan speed one are the best quality vape because it is a really slow draw. But the whip is nice for just take a toke when you feel like it.

don't forget to stir the bowl.

The EQ was my first vaporizer, and i still use it once in a while, even though i have a herborizer and a mighty. the EQ is just the best bang for the buck.
 
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Tommybwell

Active Member
Has anyone received anything for your Q from DDave Mods? I placed an order on 12/4 and have not received it and they have not responded to multiple messages. Is this their usual customer service?
 
Tommybwell,
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Delta3DStudios

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Hey all! :wave:

Bit late to the party with this one but a long time ago I had a few requests to whip up an organizer for the EQ's various components. After a bunch of R&D testing with my own EQ I've finalized v1.0 of my new ExtremeQ Organizer Tray!

20210103_143349__74603.1609709490.1280.1280[1].png

This organizer tray requires no modifications for installation and holds multiple bags, picks/tools, glass pieces (18mm/14mm/10mm), pocket for screens, even a velcro strap in the back for whip storage after your session! I've been really excited to share this with the community, looking forward to some feedback on the design :science:
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
Hey all! :wave:

Bit late to the party with this one but a long time ago I had a few requests to whip up an organizer for the EQ's various components. After a bunch of R&D testing with my own EQ I've finalized v1.0 of my new ExtremeQ Organizer Tray!
View attachment 4948

This organizer tray requires no modifications for installation and holds multiple bags, picks/tools, glass pieces (18mm/14mm/10mm), pocket for screens, even a velcro strap in the back for whip storage after your session! I've been really excited to share this with the community, looking forward to some feedback on the design :science:
My brother could use this! Awesome!
 

fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
If you have a broken EQ that runs too hot to use, no matter what the dial says, are crazy or desperate, well out of warranty and overseas like me, then this may be worth a try. Clearly, it is a last ditch technique when the EQ would otherwise be thrown out. You'll need a PWM DC controller board (anything rated +24v +50W will work fine - a few dollars on ebay)

After about 5 years of reliable service, my first EQ got hotter and hotter over a week - same dial setting (190c)..long story short, the thermocouple weld had failed - I pulled it out to confirm. Arizer says "safety" and won't sell me a replacement heater/thermocouple unit. So I whipped out the soldering iron.

The heater element resistance cold was about 7 ohm using a crappy old multimeter so at 12v will draw less than 2A max for 24 watts. Well within spec for a cheap chinese PWM controller board I had lying around. The idea with pulse width modulation is to turn the input DC supply on and off really fast but to control the ratio of total on to total off as you turn the PWM dial down. For example, if the total off period is 50% of the time, the heater element will draw 2A 50% of the time on average so will run at about 12W. The rapid switching is not likely to hurt the heater element, particularly if it's +thousands of times a second.

So I wired it so the PWM input is the 12V DC from the wall wart, and the load is the heater circuit.

Do not try this at home kids. The potentiometer shaft sticks out from an ugly hole in the shroud. It looks really, really awful.

I plugged it into a wattmeter and left it running after turning the dial on the PWM board so it was consuming 18w - too hot - I'm working my way down - at about 11W it works much like it used to - despite the lack of temperature set point. It's just pumping out 11W and in thermal equilibrium most of the time except when my occasional (slow) toke drops the temperature a bit - probably more than it did when it had a working thermocouple. Bottom line is that not only does it work, but it works surprisingly well so far. Takes a long time to get heat soaked but I can turn it up and return to the 11W setting when it's ready. I'll report back after a few days. I'm waiting on a probe so I'll be able to get some temperature readings. At 11W, I am getting excellent looking ABV - no scorching but uniformly and well toasted - same as when it was working properly at about 190 on the dial. I actually could not really care what the dial says - it hits pretty much as well - although dialing it in involved 3 bowls in half an hour so I might just be befuddled.

Google tells me that they can be rewelded using a 12v car battery and a carbon brush electrode to soak up oxygen! Too late to try that now - but I now have a sort of log vape that I can use all my DDave kit on.
YMMV
 
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fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
24 hours later: I like it.

Optimal setting seems to be somewhere between 11-12W and I just leave it running - the cheap wattmeter won't go fractional. The shroud and top are cool so I think it will work just fine for hours at a time. Interesting, vaping without much clue about the temperature. The ABV tells the story as much as the subjective hit. I await the arrival of my thermocouple probe and readout. I think I'm ready for a log. Fuck thermocouples!
 
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fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
In case anyone cares:

After a couple of days including one with a thermocouple installed in the heater unit in place of the busted one, I have a much better understanding of the importance of thermal mass and inertia in log vapes :)

1) Maximum temperature reached at steady state: Takes 10 minutes or so and it rises as the watts drawn at the wall increase. At 10W it gets to about 220c, 12W goes to about 240c - far too hot to start but see 2)

2) The temperature during a long deep hard toke sees a ~40c drop unless I decrease the air intake rate to a very low rate - it is possible to keep the temperature steady but it takes a lot of effort - and I am a former wind player so have unusually good breath control.

3) Watching the temperature after a toke climb it is notably faster at higher watts input - at 10W I have to wait a couple of minutes between draws.

My conclusion: If you have a busted thermocouple and arizer won't replace it, you could try welding it using a 12v battery and a carbon brush - google it - or you could get a PWM controller and wire it in like I did. It will work. Not very well in terms of temperature control, but much better than nothing. I'm voting with my feet and just ordered an underdog :)
 

fubar

Ancient and opiniated inhaler
Final notes: I pulled and rewelded the broken thermocouple using a googled DIY welding guide (!) Why didn't a get it fixed under warranty? Arizer told me that the lifetime heater warranty was exactly that and my heater was working. Not the thermocouple and they don't sell replacements - citing "safety". If they saw what I had to do as a result of "safety", they'd be shocked.

Ugly wrestle to get the thermocouple out of the heater tube - it is not designed to be extracted. A 12v battery and a carbon brush electrode that chews up all the nearby oxygen as it combusts (!) so you can get a decent weld - it was probably the stupidest thing I've ever tried that actually worked. I got a nice little bead of weld at the tip of the twisted pair of wires. Very exciting - sparks flying everywhere - very short contact time needed but you do need to see some glowing wire to get a weld - wear safety goggles if you do it and unplug the thermocouple from the circuit board socket while you fiddle around welding.

Rewired the EQ controller without the PWM board, and pushed the now working thermocouple tip back into the heater unit and fired it up. It looks a little the worse for wear inside but it's only @12v and all joints are soldered and heat shrink insulated - and it works as it did when I first acquired it.

I can confirm that the EQ is much, much better with the temperature control working. Much more consistent extraction with less fussing is the obvious benefit for me.

As a log with a PWM controller, the EQ is actually useable but you'll need to nurse it whereas with the thermocouple working, it's a beast - temperature in the core remains rock steady.

I've posted my first underdog log experience over in that forum if anyone cares - very, very different and an excellent alternative but requiring a lot more finesse on the part of the operator to get good results. The EQ is really stupidly easy to use, especially with decent glassware like the DDave kits. The underdog appears to have more thermal mass, but requires slower toking and smaller loads to give good and tasty results in my hands. I like them both. The EQ is ideal for a quick session because it only takes about 70 seconds from cold to be useable whereas the underdog will be ideal when I want to sit around medicating steadily for a few hours - it really does take 10-15 minutes to reach a useful temperature. Once it does, it is tasty and effective with patience and practice.

Draws about 10W according to my wattmeter so about AU$0.03 to run for 10 hours here.
 
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flyingturtle

Well-Known Member
After going through two cyclone bowls (they haven't broken, but the black bit to keep from burning your fingers came off) I decided to get a Tuff bowl... I just got it and didn't realize it came in a silicone sleeve. Is that for storage and you should remove it before using, or is it intended to always be attached?
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
After going through two cyclone bowls (they haven't broken, but the black bit to keep from burning your fingers came off) I decided to get a Tuff bowl... I just got it and didn't realize it came in a silicone sleeve. Is that for storage and you should remove it before using, or is it intended to always be attached?
Maybe the silicone is just 4 transport?
I have a TUFF BOWL without silicone!
 

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
After going through two cyclone bowls (they haven't broken, but the black bit to keep from burning your fingers came off) I decided to get a Tuff bowl... I just got it and didn't realize it came in a silicone sleeve. Is that for storage and you should remove it before using, or is it intended to always be attached?
The silicone sleeve is what makes it "tuff". Defininately don't remove it. :2c:

If you listen to @ataxian too much you'll end up with a pink EQ. :lmao:

:peace:
 

Endless Interim

Active Member
Just ordered one from POTV.Will look into some of the DDave mods as well.Want something I can just kick back sitting at the table and zone out with and not have to worry about batteries at least not for now.I'll pick up a portable vaporizer down the road.For the price and the reviews I have read it seems pretty good for what you get.I have a Dynavap M 2020,Sneaky Pete The Gentleman Recycler with various attachments to dab with and use with the Dynavap and such.I ordered some other gear but there was some kind of screw up with my bank card and for the moment cancelled it for now.

I need something that me and my roommate can medicate with so a desktop makes more sense without worrying about battery life.
 
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