The outside dimensions are 1 3/4" diameter by 3" tall. Cherry wood discs on the top and the bottom, held apart by 25ga stainless steel, wrapped in black leather.
The Bud Toaster - (currently: Model 14, version 3)
- Thread starter Hippie Dickie
- Start date
thank-you for your kind words ... i hope the Bud Toaster saga is amusing/interesting ... at this point the Bud Toaster seems to have a life of its own.
yes, i think the top and bottom discs could be reduce/eliminated with threaded end caps. The "guts" of the vape will be mounted on the bottom disc. So that would require a bracket or some such arrangement.
The batteries are each 1 1/16" diameter by 2 5/8" long. By the time i get the Deans female plug attached, and the whole battery dunked in Dip-It (or in shrinkwrap tubing), add 1/16" to the diameter and 1/4" to the length.
The diameter of the heater coil is 3/4", so that's the absolute minimum diameter without changing the glass geometry.
If this were a hash vaporizer (on the drawing board) it could be the size of a battery.
yes, i think the top and bottom discs could be reduce/eliminated with threaded end caps. The "guts" of the vape will be mounted on the bottom disc. So that would require a bracket or some such arrangement.
The batteries are each 1 1/16" diameter by 2 5/8" long. By the time i get the Deans female plug attached, and the whole battery dunked in Dip-It (or in shrinkwrap tubing), add 1/16" to the diameter and 1/4" to the length.
The diameter of the heater coil is 3/4", so that's the absolute minimum diameter without changing the glass geometry.
If this were a hash vaporizer (on the drawing board) it could be the size of a battery.
Maybe small size relative to most other vapes, but the iolite is all in one. The Bud Toaster has a cable and the battery pack, so not so stealthy. It would be okay in an office drawer, but not a pocket.
Continuing work on the bottom disc ... and the user input panel. i populated the circular pcb and cut the holes through the disc:
This is how the pcb looks when properly positioned:
The three small holes are where the cable connects this pcb to the command module pcb.
And the view from the bottom:
The buttons are slightly recessed so they can not accidently be clicked.
Now i'm populating the other two printed circuit boards.
This is how the pcb looks when properly positioned:
The three small holes are where the cable connects this pcb to the command module pcb.
And the view from the bottom:
The buttons are slightly recessed so they can not accidently be clicked.
Now i'm populating the other two printed circuit boards.
Now to populate the power pcb ...
The heater coil connects directly to this pcb. The LED will stick up through this pcb and shine into the bottom of the oven tube. The rim of the oven tube will glow red whenever power is applied to the heater coil.
Very simple pcb ... just two components -- the MOSFET to control the current to the heater coil, and a "snubber" diode to improve efficiency when the current switches from OFF to ON or from ON to OFF. According to theory, anyway.
This pcb is 1.25" wide by 1" high.
The heater coil connects directly to this pcb. The LED will stick up through this pcb and shine into the bottom of the oven tube. The rim of the oven tube will glow red whenever power is applied to the heater coil.
Very simple pcb ... just two components -- the MOSFET to control the current to the heater coil, and a "snubber" diode to improve efficiency when the current switches from OFF to ON or from ON to OFF. According to theory, anyway.
This pcb is 1.25" wide by 1" high.
Gosh, i must be inspired tonight ... here is the final pcb, the Command and Control pcb:
This pcb is 1" x 1" in size.
and, a group shot of all 3 pcbs:
i finally got some solder flux at Radio Shack, and some super thin (0.032") solder. Boy, does that make soldering a lot easier.
This pcb is 1" x 1" in size.
and, a group shot of all 3 pcbs:
i finally got some solder flux at Radio Shack, and some super thin (0.032") solder. Boy, does that make soldering a lot easier.
Bubar
Well-Known Member
Do you have any problems with heat and your transistor. My current theory on how I break my stuff is overheating. The gate pin and transistors keep dieing after I expose them to the 12v line. I tried to increase cooling by attaching a piece of aluminum, but that hasn't seemed to help much.
Does just the pcb provide the heat dissipation for your transistor?
Does just the pcb provide the heat dissipation for your transistor?
Bubar
Well-Known Member
Also, you may want to think about the way the duty cycle led is hooked up. The failure state (atleast I've found) for the transistors is to be stuck on, it may be better to put the led in parallel with the heating coil. A resistor of a few hundred ohms will keep the LED from clamping the heating coil voltage (a red led usually clamps at 2v and green at 2.5).
Also, Pics can drain more current than they can supply, so reversing your led orientation will make them brighter.
Another question: Where does your power cord and heating coil connect to on the pcb? I am making a pcb file with your version and my lcd version so I can do both at once.
Also, Pics can drain more current than they can supply, so reversing your led orientation will make them brighter.
Another question: Where does your power cord and heating coil connect to on the pcb? I am making a pcb file with your version and my lcd version so I can do both at once.
i'm not having a heat problem that kills the MOSFET. If the heat sink didn't help, that i would doubt that's the problem. i suggest running the coil at 5v for a while to see if excessive current flow is the problem. If the MOSFET still dies, then you have a different type of reality failure.Bubar said:
Yes, the pcb is the only heat dissipation for the MOSFET.
i don't understand that part about the LED having an effect on the heater coil. The way i see it, i'm just sipping a little current from the line that feeds the Gate. Actually, since the LED is larger power consumer (25ma) vs the Gate (3 ma), the Gate is the one sipping from the current hose. In any event, the LED is totally isolated from the coil and the power to the coil.Bubar said:
re: PIC draining more current -- the only input to the PIC is from the MAX, and the power to the MAX(hence the current to the PIC) is limited by the 2k resistor to about 1.5 milliamp; and from the button array which has at least 1k on the power drawn from the voltage regulator. So i don't understand that concern also. But, again, i'm not a hardware guy.
The PIC is mainly just supplying current to the green and red LEDs, the blue LED is feeding right off the voltage regulator.
What do you mean by "reversing the led orientation"???
The power cord is soldered onto the pcb. You can see the two black power cables on the right edge of the pcb:
The heating coil is screwed to copper plates that are soldered to the pcb. This is from the previous prototype, but i'm using the same technique going forward. Here are the copper plates:
and with the coil connected:
i just don't get that. the LED doesn't light at all when reverse voltage is applied. The resistors set the current just below the allowed maximum according to the specs - about 25 ma.
There's also a note in the 12F683 datasheet about the PIC GPIO locking up if it tries to sink too much current.
There's also a note in the 12F683 datasheet about the PIC GPIO locking up if it tries to sink too much current.
Bubar
Well-Known Member
In other projects I've had the negative end going to the pic and positive end going to the + power line. I set the pin to 0 to turn on the LED. That is just the convention that I have been told to use the past. I guess it doesn't really matter.
Here's a picture of the pcb files of you design, sans snubber diode and resistors on the max6675 lines:
Here's a picture of the pcb files of you design, sans snubber diode and resistors on the max6675 lines:
Check that left-most button on the button pcb ... the line from +v goes to both pins -- the left most connects of that left-most button should only connect to the common bus going to the PIC line. And that bottom left-most resistor is an extra resistor that isn't in my layout.
re: LED connection to PIC -- it just seems more natural to me to supply +V to the LED from the PIC, and connect the other end of the LED to chassis ground. i think that's exposing the PIC to a potential failure mode to sink rather than source the LED.
And your LED method will require another PIC output pin to drive the Gate of the MOSFET.
If you don't want to start your own thread, go ahead and post your drawings. This is more of a construction/ideas thread anyway. i've gone through (now) three prototypes since i started this thread.
re: LED connection to PIC -- it just seems more natural to me to supply +V to the LED from the PIC, and connect the other end of the LED to chassis ground. i think that's exposing the PIC to a potential failure mode to sink rather than source the LED.
And your LED method will require another PIC output pin to drive the Gate of the MOSFET.
If you don't want to start your own thread, go ahead and post your drawings. This is more of a construction/ideas thread anyway. i've gone through (now) three prototypes since i started this thread.
Bubar
Well-Known Member
My tentative name for my prototype is the Power Plant.
The main difference between yours and mine is having a blank bowl vial that raises the vaping bud vial so it is visible. I'll have to do some temperture measurements to compensate for the difference. Or mount the thermocouple in the airflow line.
Also I like my oven tube to be taller so I can leave the sipping tube in it while passing.
Here's updated pcb file: I just realized after posting that I think I put the diode in backwards.
i love the name ... as a matter of miscellaneous detail, the Eterra was designed by a guy who worked at a pyrolysis plant, which was a city power plant ... very apt.
i totally agree that a taller oven tube allows the stem to stay inserted in the vape for passing ... not such a problem for solo vaping, but sharing is a pain with a detached stem ... so that is very useful.
however, in my experience, it requires more user training. i had a friend drop the bud vial into the longer oven tube and crack it. my current thinking is to have a holder that can attach to the top via magnets to steady the stem when passing the vape.
Also, having glass extending above the body of the vape makes stonerly knocking it over dangerous. Been there, done that, more than once.
i haven't tested this, but i've always believed the vial needs to be in the heart of the oven to melt the trichomes (they look waxy after the vape session) so the hot air can vaporize the THC goo that is then exposed.
or, since the stems are about $0.10 each, and in this time of pandemic, every one can have a personal stem.
i could see going into a "coffee" house in the 'Dam and you buy the stem to use for the night and that includes the first vial.
i can see Bud Toasters lined up at the bar, with a rack of vials of different flavors. Walk up, drop the vial, wait 90 seconds and get a dozen hits.
i can see that.
i totally agree that a taller oven tube allows the stem to stay inserted in the vape for passing ... not such a problem for solo vaping, but sharing is a pain with a detached stem ... so that is very useful.
however, in my experience, it requires more user training. i had a friend drop the bud vial into the longer oven tube and crack it. my current thinking is to have a holder that can attach to the top via magnets to steady the stem when passing the vape.
Also, having glass extending above the body of the vape makes stonerly knocking it over dangerous. Been there, done that, more than once.
i haven't tested this, but i've always believed the vial needs to be in the heart of the oven to melt the trichomes (they look waxy after the vape session) so the hot air can vaporize the THC goo that is then exposed.
or, since the stems are about $0.10 each, and in this time of pandemic, every one can have a personal stem.
i could see going into a "coffee" house in the 'Dam and you buy the stem to use for the night and that includes the first vial.
i can see Bud Toasters lined up at the bar, with a rack of vials of different flavors. Walk up, drop the vial, wait 90 seconds and get a dozen hits.
i can see that.
(yes, i live a rather solitary existence)
i think your MOSFET is wired backwards. The Drain should connect to the -V of the coil. The N-Channel MOSFET controls the ground, not the power.
And the Anode of the Diode should connect to the Drain of the MOSFET -- which it does, but that should be the -V, not the +V ... the diode is hooked up in opposite sense with Anode to - and Cathode to +.
And the Anode of the Diode should connect to the Drain of the MOSFET -- which it does, but that should be the -V, not the +V ... the diode is hooked up in opposite sense with Anode to - and Cathode to +.
Check the diagram in post #1: Source goes to -Battery (ground), Drain goes to -Coil, +Coil goes to +Battery. That is, one end of the coil goes directly to the +Battery while the other end of the Coil goes to -Battery through the MOSFET. That is, the MOSFET completes the circuit to ground for the coil. This is N-channel MOSFET so it makes or breaks the ground to the coil.
The power cable solders directly to the MOSFET pcb. The other end of the cable has male Deans connectors. The batteries have female Deans connectors. These are excellent connectors that can handle massive current (30a) - used for radio control models. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=ML
i use Deans cable - ultra wire or wet noodle - very flexible, insane number of strands that have less resistance than solid wire:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX26&P=M
The power cable solders directly to the MOSFET pcb. The other end of the cable has male Deans connectors. The batteries have female Deans connectors. These are excellent connectors that can handle massive current (30a) - used for radio control models. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=ML
i use Deans cable - ultra wire or wet noodle - very flexible, insane number of strands that have less resistance than solid wire:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX26&P=M
RE: mounting the heater coil
i got some high purity copper sheet, 1/32" thick (0.032"), that i cut into 3/16" strips (shooting for 1/4", but i wasn't running the shear), just needs to be a bit wider than 3/32", which is the pilot hole for tapping a 4-40 thread. i got a couple of 4-40 taps at the local auto parts store for about $1.50 each.
Here is the copper strip after tapping two 4-40 holes:
The machine screws are 4-40 by 3/8" long.
Then the tapped end is cut off, and bent into an "L" shape, and soldered to the power pcb:
i got some high purity copper sheet, 1/32" thick (0.032"), that i cut into 3/16" strips (shooting for 1/4", but i wasn't running the shear), just needs to be a bit wider than 3/32", which is the pilot hole for tapping a 4-40 thread. i got a couple of 4-40 taps at the local auto parts store for about $1.50 each.
Here is the copper strip after tapping two 4-40 holes:
The machine screws are 4-40 by 3/8" long.
Then the tapped end is cut off, and bent into an "L" shape, and soldered to the power pcb: