vape4health
Well-Known Member
Is this something you are selling . Looks awsome dude.
The Bud Toaster - (currently: Model 14, version 3)
- Thread starter Hippie Dickie
- Start date
Perhaps. Well, that's how i justify all the "wasted" time to my gf ... "but dear, this will be a great product, it has iPod sales-level potential -- millions of units" ... yeah, right ... after 33 years of living with me she's not a believer anymore ...
vape4health
Well-Known Member
I would like to buy one like in the drawing .
I'm reading all the page's now.
I'm reading all the page's now.
vape4health
Well-Known Member
Would you sell all the parts minus the battery stuff .
i still have to get past the prototype stage before i can think about selling it. this is only the 3rd version using my design for computer temperature control -- it will be at least another one or two iterations before i get to a pre-production model.
so, no, i'm not ready to sell anything yet ... but i'll keep posting the construction details as they unfold.
so, no, i'm not ready to sell anything yet ... but i'll keep posting the construction details as they unfold.
vape4health
Well-Known Member
Cool man . It seems perfect .
I see from reading this is a personal project more then something to make a buck . Very cool man . I hope you get it to work just like you want . I like to tinker too but your way out of my range . I'll keep watching .
I see from reading this is a personal project more then something to make a buck . Very cool man . I hope you get it to work just like you want . I like to tinker too but your way out of my range . I'll keep watching .
Bubar
Well-Known Member
I'm having problems with the transistor not turning off. I don't know why. The back side of the transisitor goes to the middle pin right? Drain. I'm pretty sure I have it wired right. When I set it up at school with a benchtop supply I can see it is 0A when off, but at home it always lets juice through. I don't know if I keep damaging the transistors somehow or what.
Yes, the middle pin is the Drain, same as the back side.
If the MOSFET is always ON, then the gate must be seeing Vdd voltage. All you are changing between the two location is the power supply?
+battery (or power supply) goes to one end of the heater coil
-battery (or power supply) goes to MOSFET Source
MOSFET Drain goes to the other end of the heater coil.
If the MOSFET is always ON, then the gate must be seeing Vdd voltage. All you are changing between the two location is the power supply?
+battery (or power supply) goes to one end of the heater coil
-battery (or power supply) goes to MOSFET Source
MOSFET Drain goes to the other end of the heater coil.
And you are using the same Fairchild N-Channel MOSFET that i use? FDB6030BL/FDP6030BL
Or perhaps the snub diode (are you using one?) is backwards. It should be wired with Anode to Drain and Cathode to +battery -- the opposite of a normal diode where cathode goes to ground.
i'm sorry you're having so much trouble. My Bud Toaster is working like a champ.
Or perhaps the snub diode (are you using one?) is backwards. It should be wired with Anode to Drain and Cathode to +battery -- the opposite of a normal diode where cathode goes to ground.
i'm sorry you're having so much trouble. My Bud Toaster is working like a champ.
i don't think the snubber is necessary since there is one built into the MOSFET. From the data sheet:
Rugged internal source-drain diode can eliminate the need for an external Zener diode transient suppressor.
You're using a breadboard wire panel, right? check for shorts.
Sounds like you're having a classic reality failure. In situations like this (happens to me ALL the fucking time), i would draw the circuit diagram based on the hardware -- like looking at a picture upside-down to ignore the image so i can focus on the details.
---- ---- ----
When i first hooked up my MOSFET i had the Drain and Source switched. The MOSFET wouldn't turn on even when i connected the Gate to +5v. Kind of the inverse of your situation.
--- --- --- ---
Also, did you put a volt meter on the PIC Pin 5 controlling the Gate. Do you see 0 volts until the vape goes into RUN mode, then do you see +Vdd volts? The resistor on the line from Pin 5 to Gate just limits the current so the PIC doesn't lock up its I/O buffer.
Rugged internal source-drain diode can eliminate the need for an external Zener diode transient suppressor.
You're using a breadboard wire panel, right? check for shorts.
Sounds like you're having a classic reality failure. In situations like this (happens to me ALL the fucking time), i would draw the circuit diagram based on the hardware -- like looking at a picture upside-down to ignore the image so i can focus on the details.
---- ---- ----
When i first hooked up my MOSFET i had the Drain and Source switched. The MOSFET wouldn't turn on even when i connected the Gate to +5v. Kind of the inverse of your situation.
--- --- --- ---
Also, did you put a volt meter on the PIC Pin 5 controlling the Gate. Do you see 0 volts until the vape goes into RUN mode, then do you see +Vdd volts? The resistor on the line from Pin 5 to Gate just limits the current so the PIC doesn't lock up its I/O buffer.
i finally figured out how to mount the pcbs in the cylindrical body so i started on Model 13 Version 5-3 today ... here is the new pcb:
This will be cut apart into three pcbs. two are 1"x1" and the power driver is 1.25"x1". They will be stacked in the bottom of the cylindrical body.
The only difficult part of construction is cutting the circular grooves in the top and bottom wood discs. The hole cutter is terribly dull. Fortunately, the groove is entirely hidden so there are no cosmetic issues.
i'm liking this design a whole lot. As my projects go, this should be incredibly easy to fabricate.
This will be cut apart into three pcbs. two are 1"x1" and the power driver is 1.25"x1". They will be stacked in the bottom of the cylindrical body.
The only difficult part of construction is cutting the circular grooves in the top and bottom wood discs. The hole cutter is terribly dull. Fortunately, the groove is entirely hidden so there are no cosmetic issues.
i'm liking this design a whole lot. As my projects go, this should be incredibly easy to fabricate.
No, i haven't tried that ... What are the voltages on pin 5 connected to the Gate???
Or, take out the MOSFET and put in the red LED ... is it off and then turns on when the vape starts? i really love how the red LED flickers to show the amount of current getting to the coil. This is the best feature, other than the vapor.
Or, take out the MOSFET and put in the red LED ... is it off and then turns on when the vape starts? i really love how the red LED flickers to show the amount of current getting to the coil. This is the best feature, other than the vapor.
Bubar
Well-Known Member
For the gate voltages I've tried 3.3v and 5v.
I'm short an LED right now, because one of them burnt out. I'm gonna head to the lab later and hopefully get this thing figured out. Oscilloscopes and lab bench supplies make the work much easier. I'm gonna be real pissed though is the problem is just a bum breadboard...
I'm short an LED right now, because one of them burnt out. I'm gonna head to the lab later and hopefully get this thing figured out. Oscilloscopes and lab bench supplies make the work much easier. I'm gonna be real pissed though is the problem is just a bum breadboard...
yeah, but have you measured the voltage on pin 5 of the PIC???
here's a (stoner) thought ... do you have a rock-solid ground in your wiring across the breadboard??? a floating ground (somewhere) might be causing your problems.
can you etch a pcb? i'll send you a template if you like - either the first one with through-hole devices or the current one with all surface-mount devices.
it's really drop-dead simple ... there is some transfer paper that works really well, and detaches easily when it is dunked in water. i still feel like i have to go over the pattern with a extra fine point Sharpie, but the resulting board is perfect. Drill before you etch, or the thin traces get damaged by tearout from the drill bit. i'm using 0.035" drill bits (for the dremel) that i got from the place selling the transfer paper.
i'm buying parts as if i'm going to make 5 Bud Toasters ... that way i've got spare components so only my stoner idleness keeps me from always making progress. In a prior lifetime i could just go down to Redwood City, to the will-call desk at one of the component suppliers and get whatever i needed immediately -- kind of like a Radio Shack that had everything.
here's a (stoner) thought ... do you have a rock-solid ground in your wiring across the breadboard??? a floating ground (somewhere) might be causing your problems.
can you etch a pcb? i'll send you a template if you like - either the first one with through-hole devices or the current one with all surface-mount devices.
it's really drop-dead simple ... there is some transfer paper that works really well, and detaches easily when it is dunked in water. i still feel like i have to go over the pattern with a extra fine point Sharpie, but the resulting board is perfect. Drill before you etch, or the thin traces get damaged by tearout from the drill bit. i'm using 0.035" drill bits (for the dremel) that i got from the place selling the transfer paper.
i'm buying parts as if i'm going to make 5 Bud Toasters ... that way i've got spare components so only my stoner idleness keeps me from always making progress. In a prior lifetime i could just go down to Redwood City, to the will-call desk at one of the component suppliers and get whatever i needed immediately -- kind of like a Radio Shack that had everything.
Congrats. and damn, i had that happen to me once -- kept reading 0x0000 from the MAX --- and i was going to put a test in for that condition. i do detect when the MAX says the probe is missing and abort the session, but no reasonableness checks on the value returned. For examples: (1) no change in value over several samples, (2) too big a change between two samples, and (3) zero value returned.
i guess i better put in some tests asap.
i guess i better put in some tests asap.
the ready light has a 25 second (250 ticks) delay AFTER the coil temperature passes the trip temperature, which is about 350F or so in the hexcode. If there is overshoot this value is adjusted down for the next session.
you really need a LED on the gate pin to know what's happening. or a voltmeter.
i guess you don't have a thermometer in the oven tube?
you really need a LED on the gate pin to know what's happening. or a voltmeter.
i guess you don't have a thermometer in the oven tube?
Bubar
Well-Known Member
I use a finger on the transistor to look for juice. Lol.
I changed out the mosfet led, but I burnt it out trying to figure out wtf the mosfet is doing. I think I got it to work. It doesn't freak out with 5v like it does with 12v. I also tried unlidding the mason jar, so now I can lose more heat. Idk, I'll check the temperature with a better thermometer tomorrow.
I'm starting to think about making some finished prototypes. What is your manufacturing process like for your wooden caps like?
I changed out the mosfet led, but I burnt it out trying to figure out wtf the mosfet is doing. I think I got it to work. It doesn't freak out with 5v like it does with 12v. I also tried unlidding the mason jar, so now I can lose more heat. Idk, I'll check the temperature with a better thermometer tomorrow.
I'm starting to think about making some finished prototypes. What is your manufacturing process like for your wooden caps like?
The wooden discs are 1 3/4" diameter by 1/2" thick. A buddy turned some 2"x2"x18" long pieces of cherry on a lathe to get a 1 3/4" diameter by 18" long stick which i chop to 1/2" lenghts.
i have a 1 3/8" hole saw which is used to cut a 1/4" deep groove in the disc. This is a very thin kerf blade (made from a band saw blade, i think).
the bottom piece will have a 1" diameter recess for the button panel to fit it. Three holes bored for the buttons. Two holes bored through the side for the green and blue leds.
the top piece has the groove and the center is drilled through with a 16mm bit. the oven tube sticks up through this hole.
i'll post some pictures when i get this done this week.
i have a 1 3/8" hole saw which is used to cut a 1/4" deep groove in the disc. This is a very thin kerf blade (made from a band saw blade, i think).
the bottom piece will have a 1" diameter recess for the button panel to fit it. Three holes bored for the buttons. Two holes bored through the side for the green and blue leds.
the top piece has the groove and the center is drilled through with a 16mm bit. the oven tube sticks up through this hole.
i'll post some pictures when i get this done this week.
Starting the wood work for Model 13 Version 5-3.
The bottom of the Bud Toaster is a cherry wood disc, 1.75" diameter by 0.5" thick:
A 1" diameter, 1/4" deep flat hole is milled in the inside bottom of this disc (using a Forsner bit). Then a 1 3/8" diameter groove is cut that is 1/4" deep, using a very thin kerf hole saw in my table-top drill press.
The 3 button control panel (user input) will be mounted in the 1" diameter hole, so the buttons are pressed from below. Here is the circular pcb waiting to be populated with buttons and resisters:
The bottom of the Bud Toaster is a cherry wood disc, 1.75" diameter by 0.5" thick:
A 1" diameter, 1/4" deep flat hole is milled in the inside bottom of this disc (using a Forsner bit). Then a 1 3/8" diameter groove is cut that is 1/4" deep, using a very thin kerf hole saw in my table-top drill press.
The 3 button control panel (user input) will be mounted in the 1" diameter hole, so the buttons are pressed from below. Here is the circular pcb waiting to be populated with buttons and resisters:
