The Arizer Air
- Thread starter pakalolo
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sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I had a battery in similar condition. Then I took that battery put it in 18650 box with a stem and screen. The screen came out of the stem and then caused the battery to arch.
Bottom line, you can buy re-wrapping supplies on the internet and for a few pennies you can be safe.
OF
Well-Known Member
I agree completely. It should be OK, at least for now........but consider the downside? "Not worth the risk" IMO.
Are you in the US? If so PM me and I'll mail you a couple of replacement jackets to play with. A hair dryer is usually enough, careful work with a lighter always does when it comes to shrinking them on.
PM me and let's get it fixed properly? No need to risk drama.
I agree, the cat's prolly guilty. Take claw prints and see.
OF
TomC1315
Well-Known Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15x-Tobacco...mm-1-4-x1-2-/201702712818?hash=item2ef66b25f2
Once the bowl gets a little bit of build-up in it, the screens stay in place ... in fact, when I soak the stems in iso, I keep the bowl out of it to maintain the build -up.
With a light pack, the screen stays clean for quite a while.
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TwistedGray
Well-Known Member
Scoured the web, did some searching here, but couldn't find my answer. I think my battery is finally to the point of no return?
When I plug it into the charger, I'll get a blinking green light on the lower LED. This is normal of course; however, it will soon change to a red blinking light.
I cannot find a clear answer to what this means, but I am pretty sure it is not charging.
Anyone else run into a similar situation? This is after about one year of use (slightly less) on the same battery.
When I plug it into the charger, I'll get a blinking green light on the lower LED. This is normal of course; however, it will soon change to a red blinking light.
I cannot find a clear answer to what this means, but I am pretty sure it is not charging.
Anyone else run into a similar situation? This is after about one year of use (slightly less) on the same battery.
OF
Well-Known Member
I don't recall this, but perhaps someone else will? One thing I think is safe to assume is flashing red is not good.....
I assume the base problem is the battery no longer makes vapor? From an owner POV it's one of three parts: Battery, unit or charger. Yes, put the charger on the list.
Substitution is the best troubleshooting tool generally, and specifically here. Having 'known good' examples of those 3 parts (say from a working set) you can quickly determine which is the issue. Standard drill, but you need the parts for substitution. Or you have to buy them......
Assuming you have no resources (USB cable, standalone charger, other 18650) the logical first pass is the battery (technically a cell since there's only one, FWIW). But this is probably the least likely unless you've left out a valuable clue: Li-ions generally don't die outright without warning, they get weaker and weaker. It the number of sessions per charge has been degrading, my money's on the 18650. Otherwise it's the logical place to start and IMO it's a good plan to have a backup one (charged to about 75%) anyway for a number of reasons aside from the obvious one in front of us.
Does it run at all? That is can you 'use while charging' at all?
Secondly, on the list you're probably wishing you had all along is a USB cable (to eliminate the charger from the suspects). Handy to have and cheap, you might order one now as as well. These work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQCMRJ6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
There have been problems with similar ones, the metal isn't long enough and you have to slice a thin 'doughnut' of plastic off like here:
Anyway, the third suspect, the unit itself, is identified by elimination, that one's a tougher nut. You can probably 'get by' on an external charger (?), but that seems lame somehow.
Warranty is, of course, another route? Not to add to the retrospect regrets list, but if you'd bought it from Randy at PIU (and let him know you had a problem.....) you'd no doubt have the answer in the mail by now.
Good luck with it, please let us know how it sorts out?
OF
Hi all. First let me apologize as I am a complete newb to forums like this.
Here's my story: I've had my air for 2 years. Using the stock battery and a OEM spare (purchased from their site) about a year ago. From what I've read here I have not been treating them as well as I could. I will often use them until completely drained though I never store them in that state. I have stored fully charged batteries for up to a week. I will sometimes session it a couple of times for its full cycle and then fully charge the battery again. All charging is done with the stock wall charger. I haven't noticed any performance issues and typically get 3 cycles on white and 2 on green before I charge the battery.
I finally got a Nitecore D2 a couple of days ago. Drained one battery and partially drained the other. Used the D2 yesterday to fully charge both and when I popped one in the Air would not turn on at all. Same for the other battery.The only thing that happens is when I plug it in the top LED will illuminate red, go out and then the bottom one illuminates red and also goes out. I have been in contact with Arizer and I'm troubleshooting as per there instructions. I have left it plugged in for 3 hours and sometimes the bottom light will illuminate green but it still won't power on. The green light will change to yellow and then go out as well.
I cannot follow Arizer's troubleshooting instructions completely since I don't know anyone else who has an Air so I can't try their battery or their charger.
Questions: Anybody here encounter similar issues? I tried to search the forums but nothing came back similar to my issue.
I have validated the Nitecore through their website. I purchased it from Amazon but I don't know if it's the most current model. There are no error messages when I charge the batteries with the D2. Does anyone think that the charger or batteries are the issue? Could the D2 have damaged the batteries so that the connection isn't solid when inserted into the Air?
Thoughts? and thanks for reading!
PS I friggin love this thing. Definitely helped me stay off cigs. Had a funny issue in the first year where it wouldn't stay on for a full cycle but it magically fixed itself after I did a couple of resets.
What a tricky little dicky the Air is. After typing this up I decided to go check on it. Took out the original battery and popped in the second OEM I purchased and it works. Testing now to see if it stays on for a full cycle
.
Here's my story: I've had my air for 2 years. Using the stock battery and a OEM spare (purchased from their site) about a year ago. From what I've read here I have not been treating them as well as I could. I will often use them until completely drained though I never store them in that state. I have stored fully charged batteries for up to a week. I will sometimes session it a couple of times for its full cycle and then fully charge the battery again. All charging is done with the stock wall charger. I haven't noticed any performance issues and typically get 3 cycles on white and 2 on green before I charge the battery.
I finally got a Nitecore D2 a couple of days ago. Drained one battery and partially drained the other. Used the D2 yesterday to fully charge both and when I popped one in the Air would not turn on at all. Same for the other battery.The only thing that happens is when I plug it in the top LED will illuminate red, go out and then the bottom one illuminates red and also goes out. I have been in contact with Arizer and I'm troubleshooting as per there instructions. I have left it plugged in for 3 hours and sometimes the bottom light will illuminate green but it still won't power on. The green light will change to yellow and then go out as well.
I cannot follow Arizer's troubleshooting instructions completely since I don't know anyone else who has an Air so I can't try their battery or their charger.
Questions: Anybody here encounter similar issues? I tried to search the forums but nothing came back similar to my issue.
I have validated the Nitecore through their website. I purchased it from Amazon but I don't know if it's the most current model. There are no error messages when I charge the batteries with the D2. Does anyone think that the charger or batteries are the issue? Could the D2 have damaged the batteries so that the connection isn't solid when inserted into the Air?
Thoughts? and thanks for reading!
PS I friggin love this thing. Definitely helped me stay off cigs. Had a funny issue in the first year where it wouldn't stay on for a full cycle but it magically fixed itself after I did a couple of resets.
What a tricky little dicky the Air is. After typing this up I decided to go check on it. Took out the original battery and popped in the second OEM I purchased and it works. Testing now to see if it stays on for a full cycle
.
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Jimiblues
Well-Known Member
My guess is that the contacts were slightly dirty? The two red lights come on when the adapter is in and there's no battery in the air. Maybe the air air didn't recognize the battery anymore or it went belly up. I had a similar issue and the air corrected itself. Thank god for the arizer..the only vape that fixes itself lol
I did try both batteries last night and had the same 2 red lights experience. It's things like this that make me believe there's a higher power controlling tech; like the gremlins pilots talked about in WW1
OF
Well-Known Member
What a tricky little dicky the Air is. After typing this up I decided to go check on it. Took out the original battery and popped in the second OEM I purchased and it works. Testing now to see if it stays on for a full cycle
Glad to hear you're on track and (hopefully) will be enjoying your Air again soon.
You've just discovered the sage 'first question of troubleshooting' which is, of course, "What was the last thing you did before the lights went out?". In this case I suggest it was trying the new charger?
Anyway, congrats, and welcome to the Forum. Lots of good folks, hope you can stick around and enjoy the company. Just don't let @ataxian near your glass (inside joke, hang around and find out?).
Regards,
OF
Last night I was definitely cursing the D2 charger (the bastard hurt my Air) seeing as it was the new factor in the equation. The thing is the newest battery was also fully charged in the D2 and hasn't been in the Air while plugged in with the wall charger for any amount of time since the problem. Would you continue to question the new charger now that the Air is working with a battery that had been charged in it?
PS Thanks for taking the time to post everything you have; I've learned a ton in a short period of time. And for the love of god please tell me if I'm not posting in a correct manner with the replies and such!
OF
Well-Known Member
Sure, I'd question everything until the root cause is sorted out and put right. Troubleshooting 101 stuff. I'd get the 'will this 18650 work OK in the Air using it's internal charger?' to weed out defective cells. Then, I'd see if the new charger can complete a charge (run it down a couple sessions and pull it out and put it in the new charger. It's possible I guess that the charger could even be charging higher than Air, although that was not the case in my tests 'in the day'.
As was stated above, the connection to the cap, especially the spring loaded pin, has been identified as a problem in the past, be aware of that.
IMO your posts are just fine, way better than some, not to worry.
You're welcome, of course, glad to help when I can. Good on ya for mentioning it, such is unfortunately rare these days........ Settle in and do a bit of (IMO fun) reading. Lots of good information there, lots of good folks willing to help.
Regards,
OF
FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
Hey guys, Just picked up an Air for portable use. Looking to get a few extra batteries with a charger. Could anyone recommend the lowest priced, best quality batteries? So far I've came across these. http://m.ebay.ca/itm/4pcs-18650-Bat...00mAh-Unprotected-4x-/131441642632?nav=SEARCH http://m.ebay.ca/itm/4pcs-18650-500...t-Charger-EU-Plug-LE-/282274594806?nav=SEARCH http://m.ebay.ca/itm/4pcs-18650-3-7...er-For-Flashlight-CA-/162355433416?nav=SEARCH With all of the different battery colors, protected/unprotected, OEM, and all of the specific battery information, I find it a bit confusing. Looking for something safe, that will keep the Air charged for awhile. I noticed Vapepower.ca has a battery specifically designed for the Air, but that's $12 for one battery. If anyone could elaborate on OEM, protected/unprotected definitions, ideal V/mAh etc, and anything else that I should know, that would be great. Thanks
OF
Well-Known Member
Air is very sensitive to overall length and diameter. Many simply don't fit, some fit but cause problems with the spring loaded pin that contacts the cap.
Best advice is to stick with the OEM offering. It has been carefully researched by our very own CentiZen who found it was basically the best choice for the job of all available at the time so he bought in bulk from the maker (Holland?) and offered them to us at 'good guy prices' for a while. He knows his stuff, Arizer knows what they're doing, they picked the top choice or so says 'the smart money'. You really only need one spare most likely, why take a chance? Ten bucks, how much did you expect to save?
BTW, don't keep the spare fully charged (with higher temperatures simply storing, never using, at 100% for a year can kill the sucker. Notice you get them at about 70% charge? Your Air came that way (or should have.....) for this very reason. If they fully charged it and it sat in a warehouse or shelf somewhere.......
Good luck with it, but that's my advice (and I believe the common advice as well). Stick with the OEM product. Charge it up fully then enjoy a session before removing it (at about 3/4 charge) to store away.
Good luck, the idea is to enjoy it not worry about non spec 18650s?
OF
Modnote: Edited to fix quote tags
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FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
OF
Well-Known Member
You're welcome.
No, I advise against it in fact. No need. I suggest not charging it up fully and putting it away that way, instead charge it and enjoy a session 'for the sake of the battery'.........
In the end it's a $10 part, wearing it out in service, even to an early death through poor power management, is not a big deal IMO. They generally get weak, not die out right without warning, anyway. It's just unfortunate and perhaps even a serious issue, to grab your backup and find it's been compromised by long storage at high charge at elevated just when you really need it.......
OF
FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
As a follow up question regarding the batteries, does anyone know if these would work? http://m.ebay.ca/itm/131441642632 (Battery details - http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...2632&category=48619&pm=1&ds=0&t=1487629461673) I checked out the Vapepower.ca battery and sent a message but it states that they're out of stock. These seem quite similar, although they're much cheaper and on for half price for the 4. Just want to ensure they'll be quality, if anyone has experience with these batteries. Also is it best to have protected or unprotected batteries. Thanks for the information guys I appreciate it
OF
Well-Known Member
For the reasons I said above, I don't recommend this. You can only use one at a time, so a single backup is all most of us need, you can save a few bucks and get one of the genuine ones and have no worries?
Otherwise, it's a crap shoot......your call.
You don't want to mess with protected cells, they're almost sure to be both too long (the PCB) and too fat (strap under the label on one side) to even fit in.
You asked advice, notice nobody came up with proven better alternatives? Yesterday you were going to order the factory unit, what has changed? The factory cell really is the best available, or Arizer would surely change?
OF
FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
Thanks man yeah I just noticed the one website was out of the genuine ones. Don't know much about batteries but thought that finding a quality one or a few sold together that's similar could save a bit of cash while being able to have more batteries. I heard that unprotected Panasonic NR18650B are okay and a higher capacity, but not as best as having an OEM battery which I've since learned the definition of. I'll go ahead and wait to see if any OEMs come back in stock at Vapepower or I'll order directly through Arizer. Anyone know of other places that sell the OEM for around $12? About $20 shipped to buy through Arizer
lookhigh
FC member
http://www.puffitup.com/Arizer-Air-Replacement-Battery-p/arz.air-101_bat.htm
best and fastest service out there.
best and fastest service out there.
FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
Thanks @lookhigh Cool user name by the way. Just have a few questions if anyone could be of assistance that would be appreciated. Recently got the Air but I've noticed a few things that concern me.
1.How do you keep herb from falling onto the heating element and causing a conduction style vapor as it's generally used vertically, also with there being 4 little holes on the bottom of the heating element I worry some crumbs could get down in there and cause an issue over time, that's the main concern for this question.
2. I've researched this and found mixed opinions, but won't having the silicone case on when using the Air, covering the slits at the top where the hot air escapes, cause an issue with the device? Could it get too hot at the highest temperature and possibly melt the silicone or does silicone require a hotter temperature for anything negative to happen to it itself?
3. I've found it difficult to remove the silicone case because it's a snug fit which is definitely a good thing but I had to push and put some pressure on the bottom where the battery is to get it off, could putting too much pressure on this area cause an issue?
4. What would happen if one turned the unit on but forgot to untwist the top rubber cap as it heated up to a high temperature? So far I've forgot to remove the cap once, but when having people over I'll try to always remember and remind myself and others to make sure to do that before turning it on.
5. I couldn't find any information on this but I've heard that some people can remove the tops to put an O-ring, more commonly with the solos. Well, with my Arizer Air it seems there's a circular rubber piece sticking out (located in the heating element area) that's not symmetrical and even around the circumference of the hole and it bothers me a bit. I was hoping that I could somehow remove the top part and realign this rubber piece somehow. Here's the imgur link so you can see what I mean https://m.imgur.com/y8v4lZn
6. Should you have to stir the bowl mid session or is it really not essential? I've found that the last few times it wasn't vaped too evenly so I had to revape the bowl after a stir (the bud was finely grinded by the way)
And that's all that I can think of for now! There was a few other thoughts that came to mind, but I can't think of anything else right now. Thanks for the help FC'ers!
1.How do you keep herb from falling onto the heating element and causing a conduction style vapor as it's generally used vertically, also with there being 4 little holes on the bottom of the heating element I worry some crumbs could get down in there and cause an issue over time, that's the main concern for this question.
2. I've researched this and found mixed opinions, but won't having the silicone case on when using the Air, covering the slits at the top where the hot air escapes, cause an issue with the device? Could it get too hot at the highest temperature and possibly melt the silicone or does silicone require a hotter temperature for anything negative to happen to it itself?
3. I've found it difficult to remove the silicone case because it's a snug fit which is definitely a good thing but I had to push and put some pressure on the bottom where the battery is to get it off, could putting too much pressure on this area cause an issue?
4. What would happen if one turned the unit on but forgot to untwist the top rubber cap as it heated up to a high temperature? So far I've forgot to remove the cap once, but when having people over I'll try to always remember and remind myself and others to make sure to do that before turning it on.
5. I couldn't find any information on this but I've heard that some people can remove the tops to put an O-ring, more commonly with the solos. Well, with my Arizer Air it seems there's a circular rubber piece sticking out (located in the heating element area) that's not symmetrical and even around the circumference of the hole and it bothers me a bit. I was hoping that I could somehow remove the top part and realign this rubber piece somehow. Here's the imgur link so you can see what I mean https://m.imgur.com/y8v4lZn
6. Should you have to stir the bowl mid session or is it really not essential? I've found that the last few times it wasn't vaped too evenly so I had to revape the bowl after a stir (the bud was finely grinded by the way)
And that's all that I can think of for now! There was a few other thoughts that came to mind, but I can't think of anything else right now. Thanks for the help FC'ers!
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OF
Well-Known Member
1. I think most of us that are worried about this insert the stem into a heated inverted unit (upside down) and take the first couple of hits this way, "hamster style". This tends to glue the load into a solid mass, which shrinks back as it dries (moves away from the opening). Moderate debris should fall out the bottom of the oven eventually and should cause no problems, none have been reported anyway?
While a controversial topic, I believe Solo and Air are conduction for a number of reasons. One of them is you need to warm the stem up, unlike with true convection? A tiny bit of debris doesn't change the mode of operation.
4. Nothing happens it seems? Didn't you just report that? Many of us have repeated that experiment and found the same I think (not advised but not a sin). While it might have some use in Solo, on Air I pull the cap off right away rather than waiting for it to catch on something and get ripped out like my first one did. That cured me of leaving it closed.......
5. No room, nor IMO any need, to add a ring to Air like in Solo. Although there's no reason to, you can unscrew the top cover off (the cap with the vents in thread off just above the buttons). That rubber piece snaps over the lip above the Aluminum oven cover, it's loose, center it to your heart's content. The seals that matter are much stiffer and lower down, you'll see once you get the cap off:
That's a counterfeit unit on the right.
6. You can if you want, but I think most of us don't. In fact, many vape intact nuglets (which obviously can't be stirred). Your call.
Air/Solo is a very versatile unit. It can be effectively used many ways. You should experiment yourself, rather than looking for 'the answer' on the web based on some stranger's opinion.
BTW you should consider ordering some of these screens, they really are excellent:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200981331675?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
They really are superior. The same fellow sells other quantities, poke around some. Some use it 'dome up' to cut the volume (load size) to about half. Better for single sessions for most? Others use them 'dome down' where they help control fouling so you an vape more between cleanings.
Regards,
OF
FUCKCOMBUSTION88
Active Member
Thanks for coming through again @OF, it's nice to hear accurate information from those with more vaporizer experience than myself and to get some assurance on the concerns, and I need to get my post count up here on FC anyway for whatever the benefits are that it would provide. Yeah I'm definitely going to order more screens and a battery, currently using pipe screens but it's doing the job for now. I had the top cap on for a minute as it heated up but then quickly removed it once I noticed, just was concerned more in the case that it was left on for the full cycle say 10 minutes or so... Crazy that people can vape nugs in these, I have no idea how they would stay intact in the stem even with a screen, depending on the size of the nug/nuglet of course, chances are it would fall right on the heating element? I'll stick with finely grounded myself, to ensure that I extract the most. I bought the Air for $120 CAD (lightly used...) with an extra solo stem and the original box/contents, it's a 2014 model though and I'm sure there are newer models with some advantages, but I still saved some cash and I doubt the newer models would have too many improvements?