OF

Well-Known Member
Hope authentic pics don't encourage the guys to produce better fake ones.. :uhoh:

I suspect counterfeiters don't rely on photos from the internet? The traditional way is to 'reverse engineer' the genuine article.

IMO ideally the goal here is no sales, not a better copy. In the end we do ourselves no favor by depriving Arizer (or any other 'investor') of their due profit. If you don't like the legal version at the price available don't buy one, supporting thieves seems wrong. It fails the 'Golden Rule' test as I doubt anyone likes it done to them?

I want Capitalists taking risks on new products, such is our future.

OF
 

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
Don't mean to criticise you @crazelee- what was your motivation to buy this knock off? Or didn't you know it wasn't a genuine one? Just curious.
 
vapen00b,
  • Like
Reactions: OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Don't mean to criticise you @crazelee- what was your motivation to buy this knock off? Or didn't you know it wasn't a genuine one? Just curious.

Fair question, I think, but not one that 'demands an answer'? I can 'see' several sound reasons for doing so, and in fact have done so personally:

Back 'in the day' when Thermovape was on the rise I was Beta Testing their Revolution/DART, a very cool 'load as you go' concentrate vaporizer on the 510 Cartomizer format. A medium size e-cig. Serious performer if demanding to load at times. I heard rumors of a 'clone' from an outfit called Zolly, a clear counterfeit. After some soul searching I had a friend run one down at his LHS for $80.

I never tried it, since I took it straight to Thermovape for teardown. Looked genuine but like the example above was not 'under the hood'. In that case, the details were wrong. The metal in the heater was common not the wizz bang stuff TV used. Likewise, the ceramic was wrong in material but in a critical detail wrong in construction. It was conventional alumina moldings, much like the unglazed rim on the bottom of a coffee mug. Not porous like the TV (it's the reservoir that held concentrate), it would have been 'load A LOT more as you go for sure'. But a novice would, of course, never know what he was missing.

I don't think it was for lack of understanding, they didn't have the resources/desire to provide the same product. The main body of the TV unit was a single precision 'screw machine' part. A machine, worth many BMWs, took the end of a 10 foot rod of stock and machined away chips leaving the threaded tube to astounding (at least to me) routine tolerances (we're talking .001" overall being expected) dripping wet with coolant every 45 seconds or so all night long. It loaded bars of stock from the rack as needed. They could literally park a bin under the machine and come back the next day to thousands of precise parts ready for wash. A few of their parts needed deburr but most did not. Some were plated at an outside shop. The Chinese version was 3 pieces of much heavier material (I suspect brass soldered) since they lacked the fancy Swiss machines (TV had a couple, one larger than the other) I think. Too big an investment if the goal is to make some quick cash and run. Minimum runs at TV were 15,000 pieces. Yes, 15,000+. They were pretty keen on Beta Testing since a mistake meant huge scrap losses. Otherwise they had buckets (literally) of the most amazing precision parts at pennies each.

Sorry to ramble, but again, the novice would not really notice the differences in this counterfeit any more than I think a guy buying an Air copy.

I, for one, am grateful the OP went to the trouble to tell us and more so had to learn to post photos to show us an excellent quality photo? Bring more of that kind of information/knowledge on! The fact he doesn't recommend/support others buying one is a key point as well?

at $169 from puffitup, no reason to not go with the real thing - win win

Agreed, at least in the general sense. I need to remind myself that for many a hundred bucks is a hundred bucks. I'm blessed to have worked into a place where that's not a concern, but there were times when it was very dear indeed. Sadly, some are today. I'm glad to not be there (any longer) instead.

So yes, spot on, great price and you get to support a great guy (and strong supporter of this Forum). "Best deal in town" for most IMO, but if some other fellow decides to jump through a few more hoops and save a few of his bucks I've got room for that too? I suspect he worked as hard for his as I did for mine.....or will happily assume so.

Deep stuff for an early Friday. I must be coming down with something......

Regards to all.

OF
 

Aimless Ryan

Came to read about grinders; fucked combustion
I have no problem with cloning. See that pizza in my profile pic? Clone.

If you go looking through knowledgeable pizza discussion on the internet, you will often see the word "clone" without looking too hard. If you look through my pizza blog, you will see the word "clone" a lot. Probably even in blog post titles.

Because of the work I and others have done in an effort to clone various pizza styles and pizza brands, those styles and brands will live on when there is no longer a Shakey's Pizza or Round Table or Tommy's (and others).

As pizza evolves, it is becoming cheap crap. Even in New York. Partly because of the record I have left, of how I make New York style pizza, people will be able to make New York style pizza in the future, after today's New York style pizza has evolved into tomorrow's [shitty] New York style pizza.

If you buy a slice of pizza in New York City today, chances are it'll be noticeably different than a slice you may have bought in New York City only five years ago. Cheap pizza is taking over New York (or at least Manhattan).

I don't think anyone who vaporizes wants the vaporizer industry to become similarly filled with people who don't know shit about shit. I analyze and reproduce pizzas very well. I don't do the same thing with vaporizers. If my two vaporizers die before I do, I sure hope there are more Arizer Airs and Aromeds where they came from. And if there aren't any, I sure hope there are some people left who know how to clone them.

Until then, I'll most likely choose not to buy a clone. If clones were being sold as the real thing, then I'd have a problem.
 

Aimless Ryan

Came to read about grinders; fucked combustion
For some reason I had forgotten about your picture, even though you have shared it recently. Thanks for reposting it. I have at least one question.

What motivated you to mod your AA in this way? Or what did you hope/intend to achieve by doing this?

Based on what I tried yesterday, I'm guessing first of all because it cools the vapor. I found it very pleasant yesterday not having to deal with either the normal temperature of the vapor or the temperature of the unit.
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Fair question, I think, but not one that 'demands an answer'? I can 'see' several sound reasons for doing so, and in fact have done so personally:

Back 'in the day' when Thermovape was on the rise I was Beta Testing their Revolution/DART, a very cool 'load as you go' concentrate vaporizer on the 510 Cartomizer format. A medium size e-cig. Serious performer if demanding to load at times. I heard rumors of a 'clone' from an outfit called Zolly, a clear counterfeit. After some soul searching I had a friend run one down at his LHS for $80.

I never tried it, since I took it straight to Thermovape for teardown. Looked genuine but like the example above was not 'under the hood'. In that case, the details were wrong. The metal in the heater was common not the wizz bang stuff TV used. Likewise, the ceramic was wrong in material but in a critical detail wrong in construction. It was conventional alumina moldings, much like the unglazed rim on the bottom of a coffee mug. Not porous like the TV (it's the reservoir that held concentrate), it would have been 'load A LOT more as you go for sure'. But a novice would, of course, never know what he was missing.

I don't think it was for lack of understanding, they didn't have the resources/desire to provide the same product. The main body of the TV unit was a single precision 'screw machine' part. A machine, worth many BMWs, took the end of a 10 foot rod of stock and machined away chips leaving the threaded tube to astounding (at least to me) routine tolerances (we're talking .001" overall being expected) dripping wet with coolant every 45 seconds or so all night long. It loaded bars of stock from the rack as needed. They could literally park a bin under the machine and come back the next day to thousands of precise parts ready for wash. A few of their parts needed deburr but most did not. Some were plated at an outside shop. The Chinese version was 3 pieces of much heavier material (I suspect brass soldered) since they lacked the fancy Swiss machines (TV had a couple, one larger than the other) I think. Too big an investment if the goal is to make some quick cash and run. Minimum runs at TV were 15,000 pieces. Yes, 15,000+. They were pretty keen on Beta Testing since a mistake meant huge scrap losses. Otherwise they had buckets (literally) of the most amazing precision parts at pennies each.

Sorry to ramble, but again, the novice would not really notice the differences in this counterfeit any more than I think a guy buying an Air copy.

I, for one, am grateful the OP went to the trouble to tell us and more so had to learn to post photos to show us an excellent quality photo? Bring more of that kind of information/knowledge on! The fact he doesn't recommend/support others buying one is a key point as well?



Agreed, at least in the general sense. I need to remind myself that for many a hundred bucks is a hundred bucks. I'm blessed to have worked into a place where that's not a concern, but there were times when it was very dear indeed. Sadly, some are today. I'm glad to not be there (any longer) instead.

So yes, spot on, great price and you get to support a great guy (and strong supporter of this Forum). "Best deal in town" for most IMO, but if some other fellow decides to jump through a few more hoops and save a few of his bucks I've got room for that too? I suspect he worked as hard for his as I did for mine.....or will happily assume so.

Deep stuff for an early Friday. I must be coming down with something......

Regards to all.

OF
Living on Long Island / New York, where you can't really touch a home for less than half a million dollars, buying "globally" is never as bad for me as for most of the rest of the country. Makes me wanna take my decent pension and live like a king someplace. Damn would Otis have a huge stash and 10 vapes...

on a side note, I've decided I'm developing a relationship with all my current vapes because I love them all. Just thinking out loud here, not committing to anything :mental:

AA # 1 Titanium: 'First' Man In, Velvet Fog, Dusty
AA # 2 Black: Blaze, Bravest, Black Cloud, Ember, Ash
Solo Black: Salty Dog, Captain, Cinder
Enano: Smokey, Cloudy, Kid Blast, Chief
Zion (one way): Rescue, Ashes, Phoenix (one can only hope)

Such typical fireman dog / pet names, can't help it, I just am so programmed to think that way. At one time every password had was a unit I'd worked in or a badge number. Damn, old habits die hard. (hope I'm an old habit) :myday:. My dog's name now is Fire Engine "RED", actually it's just red, but....

any help, comments, opinions would be much appreciate, even just on the Arizer stuff.
 
Last edited:

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
For some reason I had forgotten about your picture, even though you have shared it recently. Thanks for reposting it. I have at least one question.

What motivated you to mod your AA in this way? Or what did you hope/intend to achieve by doing this?

Based on what I tried yesterday, I'm guessing first of all because it cools the vapor. I found it very pleasant yesterday not having to deal with either the normal temperature of the vapor or the temperature of the unit.
I had the whip setup made for my Solo and it also fits the Air. I had seen someone with a whip that I liked. I don't even know where I saw it? I thought it looked like a neat way to use the Solo. What I really like about it besides cooling the vapor, is I can just set the vaporizer next to me on it side laying down in the recliner or on the couch. The Air is light weight so it will tip over.

It's just another way to use our fav portable. It makes vaporizing convenient and fun. I love trying different vaporizing accessories.
 

Aimless Ryan

Came to read about grinders; fucked combustion
What I really like about it besides cooling the vapor, is I can just set the vaporizer next to me on it side laying down in the recliner or on the couch.

Exactly. That's one thing I enjoyed about it, too. Even though I can already use the Air while lying down on the couch, it's just so much different when you don't have to hold it up to your face (or feel the heat). More relaxing.

Even though it works fine how I tried it, the whip detaches from the stem pretty frequently, which would get really old if I did it this way regularly.
 

TomC1315

Well-Known Member
Has anyone used the Ed's TNT 3" Bog Oak Air stem ?

I think that, once I got my grinded up bud dry enough and packed right, the stock stems work fine & dandy ... However, even though 98% my sessions are on either blue or white, our end of the stem gets a little hot

So, I'm wondering if the Ed's TNT Air stem stays cool throughout the session ... I'm not too worried about it effecting the taste all that much.

It looks to have a larger bowl area ... I like the idea of traveling with a much more sturdy wood stem if it hits nicely ... I've read quite a bit of the Ed's TNT thread and don't remember much in the way of the kind of info/opinions I'm looking for.

Thanks : )
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Has anyone used the Ed's TNT 3" Bog Oak Air stem ?

So, I'm wondering if the Ed's TNT Air stem stays cool throughout the session ...

Hotter than the stock stem? It depends on which end you're talking about. The bowl end, being SS not glass, gets lots hotter. In fact it 'robs' so much heat you need to bump the Air/Solo up a step to compensate.

OTOH at the MP end the wood is thicker than the glass so it stays cooler?

They are tough, but then I've never broken a glass one. Ataxian is our expert there. I think it's very cool to own a piece of wood from a tree older than the Pyramids on the Gisa plain in Egypt. As a wood it's not all that pretty, not strong, but how much have you ever seen that is that old? Let alone owned for such a reasonable price.

OF
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
I've used @Ed's TnT stems and the steel gets pretty hot. I see @OF suggests to turn the heat up, he explains it best. It's nice to have some wood pieces. With a 3 inch WonG it can be used dry or with a water tool. No worry about breakage.

The whip set up I had shown on the previous page the mouthpiece can be used as a 14mm WonG.
 
Last edited:

crazelee

New Member
Don't mean to criticise you @crazelee- what was your motivation to buy this knock off? Or didn't you know it wasn't a genuine one? Just curious.

because i have no creditcard/ paypal so i cannot get the Authentic AA.i willing to pay more than USD$200. but i cannot buy it without creditcard/paypal so clone is my only choice. now im consider to get the fake Ascent it cost arround USD80. again i willing to pay Authenticn price but i cannot buy it here.:bang:
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Finally happened, broke my first piece of glass, a stock, plastic tip stem. Not sure how... but not screwing tip on or off, must got caught in couch cushion or something, at just the right angle. It broke right at the threads....
 
Bravesst,
  • Like
Reactions: GetLeft

CloudScion

Well-Known Member
Hi there guys:),
First, sry for my english its not my native, but i would try my best.
I really want to order an AA but i have some questions because i live in germany.
I want to order it from a international Vape Shop because i get a Water Tool Adapter too for the same price,
the only problem (i think) is, that the Arizer Air is an american model.
The website says that there is an Adapter shipped with for the EU (220V),
so i can charge it here in germany, but is it possible for me to buy an germany AC (original arizer for sure) with 220V and put it on my american Arizer model??
I think in america its only 110V and i dont want to destroy my new Arizer then ( i dont know if the US model is different then the EU ).

Best Regards and vape on:)



P.s: after 2 years i finally broke my wispr, i opened it and the plastic is melted around the bowl :o ...
for anyone who might want to buy an wispr2..
Ok i used it every day, but i clean it often with ISO alc... and used it normaly with "almost zero impurity" gas.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The website says that there is an Adapter shipped with for the EU (220V),
so i can charge it here in germany, but is it possible for me to buy an germany AC (original arizer for sure) with 220V and put it on my american Arizer model??
I think in america its only 110V and i dont want to destroy my new Arizer then ( i dont know if the US model is different then the EU ).

The normal supply is good for 220 Volts as well, as are most cell phones, laptops and so on these days. The worst problem you could have would be needed a cheap socket adapter......but if you buy from an EU source that should not happen in any event.

You'll like the Air I'm sure.

Regards and best wishes,

OF
 

CloudScion

Well-Known Member
The worst problem you could have would be needed a cheap socket adapter

Thank you for your fast reply:),
Do i need this cheap socket adapter to be compatible with the US adapter itself (US Arizer -> US Adapter -> EU Socket Adapter)?
For what i understand is, i can buy an US Arizer and plug it into an original arizer EU adapter (Us Arizer -> EU Adapter) to charge and i will have no problems?
I asked because ive heard some rumors about that some Toasters and microwaves etc. from the US dont work in the EU (because of the Volts) only with a special transformator or somethin.

Iam sure i will love the Air:)
 
Last edited:

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Thank you for your fast reply:),
Do i need this cheap socket adapter to be compatible with the US adapter itself (US Arizer -> US Adapter -> EU Socket Adapter)?
For what i understand is, i can buy an US Arizer and plug it into an original arizer EU adapter (Us Arizer -> EU Adapter) to charge and i will have no problems?
I asked because ive heard some rumors about that some Toasters and microwaves etc. from the US dont work in the EU (because of the Volts) only with a special transformator or somethin.

Iam sure i will love the Air:)
The cable that comes with Solos and Airs is 100-220v 50/60hz. You need to buy a US -> EU wall socket adapter.
 
Top Bottom