T-Bucket Banger System by NewVape

[RustyOldNail]

Any interest in just making your own dabs instead? Thats ultimately the direction I went in as I have next to no access to concentrates at all. Can you get legal cbd concentrates? I find (and i have no idea how psychosomatic this is) that a little pure cbd mixed into the dab makes it easier to take the vapour, plus extra clouds to make it feel like I'm more of a toker than I actually am

Yeah, I saw a press in your sig. As someone with manageable OCD, the idea of making my own rosin is as of now, just a future goal. I got that far in the Ecig world, making my own juice, stocking up on NIC concentrate, and all the other ingredients, as well as making my own coils. The idea of knowing all the things that go into what you are inhaling, is just smart and safer. (Look at the tainted oil carts, that more or less has crushed the ECig market).

Currently, no access to decent amounts (for pressing) at reasonable costs for flower. Concentrates are getting expensive, especially as I’ve been using the new DCup a lot. I saw today that my NV WeedEater is on the way. Looking to extend and stretch the oils, by getting back into less expensive flowers. My original “dial” Volcano had been gathering dust for years, I need water filtration to help cool the smoke, coughing on dry herbs isn’t too bad if it’s filtered, and the convection of the Volcano is good, just never liked the whole “baggie” deal. The WeedEater, like most of the NV lineup looks and should last a long time with the industrial design Edwyn uses.

Oh, I’ll keep your CBD tip in mind, just worried it would make me sleepy, like some of the “couch lock” the Indica strains do to me.

 

[EmDeemo]

Yeah, I saw a press in your sig. As someone with manageable OCD, the idea of making my own rosin is as of now, just a future goal. I got that far in the Ecig world, making my own juice, stocking up on NIC concentrate, and all the other ingredients, as well as making my own coils. The idea of knowing all the things that go into what you are inhaling, is just smart and safer. (Look at the tainted oil carts, that more or less has crushed the ECig market).

Currently, no access to decent amounts (for pressing) at reasonable costs for flower. Concentrates are getting expensive, especially as I’ve been using the new DCup a lot. I saw today that my NV WeedEater is on the way. Looking to extend and stretch the oils, by getting back into less expensive flowers. My original “dial” Volcano had been gathering dust for years, I need water filtration to help cool the smoke, coughing on dry herbs isn’t too bad if it’s filtered, and the convection of the Volcano is good, just never liked the whole “baggie” deal. The WeedEater, like most of the NV lineup looks and should last a long time with the industrial design Edwyn uses.

Oh, I’ll keep your CBD tip in mind, just worried it would make me sleepy, like some of the “couch lock” the Indica strains do to me.

CBD has no pschoactive effect, as I'm sure you know, and I get the pure stuff, so no extra terpenes to 'entourage' my dabs, but it does seem to make the dab a little smoother (likely via just diluting my dab ). Dont forget, there is always the hair straighteners method to make your own rosin, on a per dab basis But I'm genuinely on medication for OCD so I understand how the idea of new obsessions can be potentially daunting!

The volcano is amazing, but goddamn it makes me cough like a bastard, and that was where my journey for 'no coughing' began in earnest

Anyway, this is all off topic! Back to TBucket talk!

One of the top tips I read on here that stuck in my noggin, is to choose the temp based on your dab size. So I can get away with 415 - 425 on the regular as my dabs are pretty small, and if I need a smack round the face I can up temps slightly and/or increase dab size. I think that was back when I was using the DCup that I read dab size/temp, so still relevant info.

Variables. Gotta love em.

 

[nspatient]

I got mine in today. First impressions are:

- It's really visually striking when you see it in person
- w/ sapphire - definitely more flavor and far (far) smoother than a SiC dish on a Vrod
- needs glass that doesn't tip easily
- angled joints require a bit of a balancing act to get the Tbucket to stay level and stay put.
- This thing is a BEAST. Auber RDK300A set to 525F, IR thermometer puts the dish at about 420F, and it is smooth sailing.
- Mine came with a one hole carb cap, which I'm happy about.

I'm digging the ergonomics and slightly more refined appearance of the Auber controller. No NewVape logo on my dial though . If a stand were to come out for this I think it would make sense to have it angle the controller(s) towards the user at like 30*-45* and then have a shelf/storage on top to hide the cables.

Also wish the top of the new universal carb cap was threaded to accept tools other than the scoop. I don't want to give up the nice wooden grip in order to switch to my shovel tool.

 

[RustyOldNail]

I got mine in today. First impressions are:

- It's really visually striking when you see it in person
- w/ sapphire - definitely more flavor and far (far) smoother than a SiC dish on a Vrod
- needs glass that doesn't tip easily
- angled joints require a bit of a balancing act to get the Tbucket to stay level and stay put.
- This thing is a BEAST. Auber RDK300A set to 525F, IR thermometer puts the dish at about 420F, and it is smooth sailing.
- Mine came with a one hole carb cap, which I'm happy about.

I'm digging the ergonomics and slightly more refined appearance of the Auber controller. No NewVape logo on my dial though . If a stand were to come out for this I think it would make sense to have it angle the controller(s) towards the user at like 30*-45* and then have a shelf/storage on top to hide the cables.

Also wish the top of the new universal carb cap was threaded to accept tools other than the scoop. I don't want to give up the nice wooden grip in order to switch to my shovel tool.

Congratulations!
While I’m a DCup user they share the coil, in my case same Auber 300 PID and 30mm Sapphire dish as you have. So the major difference is the Titanium metal cup/dish holder and how similar or different, I suspect as far as final “in dish” surface temperature measurements, they are probably extremely close for our science. So based on that I’ll share my rather in-depth temperature testing results, won’t bore with too many of the details on control points etc. This of course is assuming you want as accurate a temperature reading as you can obtain. I came to the DCup, from a torch and nail, and having accurate TP was the main reason I bought the best gear and made the move.

First off, I don’t know of any IR gun that is accurate at a close distance, and I own a decent Fluke model that has two laser type beams that show the general target area, and imagine that area being like the coverage of a water hose, the further away, the wider the area covered. But on the close end, it’s not narrow enough to cover a small 30mm disk. That’s why you will find similar advise from experienced users here and elsewhere, that IR guns are “inaccurate”, they are not with their intended use, which also considers the surfaces material makeup, and there are adjustments you can set as the model I have allows. Unfortunately, I didn’t know any of that, and was disappointed since I bought it to measure my torched nail. I didn’t go any further back then, and just used the inaccurate timing system.

So quickly, I have several DMM’s (digital multi meters), so that eliminates one variable. Two hand held temperature probes connect to DMM, and one separate battery operated temp gauge. That’s 3 sources, one less variable. Consistent warm up times 10 minutes. The PID in many cases shows your set point in 3 minutes, but as we all know, the dabbing surface is no where near that just yet. But even after 10 minutes or even longer, the surface is not going to get to your desired “set temp”. This is because the thermocouple sensor that’s built into the end of the coil sends the message back to the PID, “I’m up to your temp master”, but the temperature of your surface is insulated by the titanium metal cup holder that absorbs some of the coils heat.

So good news, is on a PID like the Auber 300a, you can adjust that temperature difference or “delta”, in the unit. There are 2 or 3 PDF manuals on the Auber site that detail how to do it, seems complicated when reading it, but distilled down it’s actually a few button presses and dial twists. Look for changing the PSL value if you want to play with that, it’s one of the main reasons besides the superior dial/button, being able to a temp on the PID and getting that same temp measured on the surface. Originally, I was hoping to be within +/- 5f, but with further temperature range and offset charting, then averaging their PSL differences I came up with a PSL: 1.16. Now I’m within 1-2 degrees and often spot on. I find it fun to check the surface right before I dab, with the battery hand held bell probe. Oh, and don’t forget to adjust the auto OFF feature if you want. I like that it goes off when you want, I upped the time from the default to 3 hours which suits me as a backup, since I turn my PID on and off for each use as I just think of it 10 minutes before I’d like to do a dab, and it’s ready, unless you crank up to 700 or more for scorch time, then give it closer to 15 minutes.

When my quick vape is done I turn down to 250f if I think I’m doing another within an hour, otherwise I turn the power button off, either way when the temperature gets to 400f and below I swab out left over oil, 1-2 dry QTIPS, never WET. So I leave it at the lower temp if I think I’m going back to it shortly, as it will get back up to temp faster. When I walk by the rig later and it’s cooled down I QTip the Sapphire dish, so almost every dab is super fresh, but even the in between ones only cleaned well with the dry QTips is the same, even to my OCD, taste wise I leave up to the taste experts.

Now you may read some they leave their hot coils on all day, or 24/7, and claim it’s better for the longevity of the coil. This didn’t make sense to me, as heat is the enemy of many materials using decreasing their effective life span. So I called the and spoke to an Auber tech support person, and he confirmed my suspicion, turning the coil on and off is better for them as well as fire safety. Now I don’t mean on and off every two minutes, that’s why I chose about an hour window for myself. In the end we are talking about 10 minutes in time, something I can live with, and I get to keep my dish super clean for the next dab.

And.... for those that boast they NEED to turn on their HEATER remotely before then get home to save 10 minutes. I’ll just say have a nice “fire sale”.......

Sorry to be so brief, I’m sure I left a lot out!

Yeah, forgot to add, as noted at the beginning, though very similar to a DCup, I don’t have a TCup, so my findings may not match anyone’s settings exactly.

For the “set temp” in your post of 525f, my surface readings were about -55f. Your IR gun read 420f, that’s a 50 degree difference between the way we measure. I’d bet you were actually at a higher temp. Now one could always bypass all this OCD stuff, and just remember what temps you liked on your PID dial. Only problem with that is many here post their dab temps, but without a standard or baseline, it almost seems not worth mentioning exact temps, and just saying, low, medium, high. As the materials can react differently to various temps.

I’ll find the link to the probe I trust in the most now for surface reading if anyone is interested.

 

[TheCheeseSmeller]

@RustyOldNail I'd be interested in more info about your trusty probe. I've used an ir gun on my vrod and the "results" showed over 200 degrees of difference between one side of the dish and the other. So I'd appreciate something more accurate

 

[RustyOldNail]

@RustyOldNail I'd be interested in more info about your trusty probe. I've used an ir gun on my vrod and the "results" showed over 200 degrees of difference between one side of the dish and the other. So I'd appreciate something more accurate

This is a link to the ThermoWorks web page for:
Pro-Surface Thermapen

https://www.thermoworks.com/Surface-Thermapen

After checking my 3 different DDM’s, Digital multi-meters for accuracy, then buying two handheld probes that connect to the DMM, one is standard “ribbon” end, the other a “tiny metal disk”. Surface measurements were close, then I saw the battery operated “ThermoPen”, and thought it would be better much more convenient to have one simple and easy to use temp gauge. At $125.00, it’s NOT cheap, but neither is accuracy in most cases. Of course I took caliper measurements to make sure it would fit inside my NV DCup’s “top lid cover”, after exchanging emails with their CS department. For those using a TCup, you don’t have that cover, so you will have a bit more room and no worries. The width of the tiny “bell sensor” is 19.20mm. I was thrilled that it closely matched the other two handheld DMM probes, and I was able to confidently put all the other measurement tools away, and have a quick way of accurately measuring the surface temperature of my 30mm Sapphire dish.

Only downside of this temp meter, is it ONLY GOES AS HIGH AS 572f.

From their webpage:
Range -58.0 to 572.0°F (-49.9 to 299.9°C)

While I occasionally play around with a “hot” dab at temps over 570f, I felt that when you are vaping at temps over 570f, temp accuracy becomes a bit less of a factor. And if you go through the trouble of experimenting to find the offset/delta between the PID temp setting, and the ACTUAL surface temperature, and then set your PID (if your model PID supports an offset), then you can be pretty confident that once you go over 570f, you will still be very close. I know this because the other two DMM probes go over 1000f, and I then checked using those probes to verify the higher temps that would be out of range on the Thermapen. So above just remember, NOT to use this probe over 570f!

There are a few other tiny usage tips, anyone can ask me about if you end up getting one.

As far as “thecheesesmeller”, I see you are using the VRod, I don’t own one, looks like those use the donut style dish inserts, that don’t have a large flat surface like the 30mm dishes used in both DCup and TCup models. So this particular Thermapen would not fit and work for the VRod I’m afraid.

The 2nd hand held probe has the smallest probe head at 8.5mm. Just checked, it it did not fit into the round track on my Highly Educated “Infiniti” titanium nail, never did temperature readings on the nail once I learned that my Fluke IR meter was not the tool for reading these tiny surfaces. It sits on a shelf these days.

I listed the ”Spring Loaded Surface Probe (K-000)”
In case it might fit your VRod. Of course using this probe would mean you need to use a decent DMM, and possibly the K-TYPE adapter I needed, to plug it into my DMM. I don’t see an elegant solution for those trying to measure super narrow surface temperatures accurately. Hopefully, this helps or informs others.

https://www.thermoworks.com/PRB-K-000

 

[TheCheeseSmeller]

Thanks for all the info. I used to have a thermometer probe box that the K000 looks like it would plug straight into. I'll have to dig around and see if I can find it.
Have you ever compared your good probes to the cheap $20 probe thermometers from amazon etc?

 

[Cannabis-Hardware-Ed]

@RustyOldNail here is the k-probe i use for measuring temps. https://www.instagram.com/p/B3mvl1pngWk/
let me know if you don't have access to instagram. I find the physical wire /probe fixtured on an indicator stand works best for me. This meter will export it's data into excel. The newvape controllers do allow the delta to be set as well. Years ago I used to suggest that everyone calibrate their deltas. However I've sense changed my opinion and have come to the realization that it's easier to keep the stock settings when discussing vaping techniques with people in public forums. I hope this makes sense. I've always herd that IF laser guns don't work well with shiny surfaces. They seem to work better on organic materials. here is a cheap one on amazon I prefer to attach the probe to a fixed stand so I can also eliminate those variables.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Thanks for all the info. I used to have a thermometer probe box that the K000 looks like it would plug straight into. I'll have to dig around and see if I can find it.
Have you ever compared your good probes to the cheap $20 probe thermometers from amazon etc?

Yes, the first probe was suggested on this site, $12 If I recall. It was the standard “ribbon” type. At the beginning, my probe holding technique was off, as well as my expectations on the time period before getting a final reading. With days of tests, I got better and learned more. But before that I lacked faith in the single probe, then spent more for the “disk” DMM probe, the 2nd one I linked to. That read such a small area, it was not ideal with my 30mm dish surface area, and I was curious about the “bell” handheld probe for DMM that they sell on Thermaworks. But I then saw some sale they were having on lots of their BBQ temp readers, and saw the “pro” Thermapen with the “bell” probe. It was more then 2x more $$, then just the probe version. Believe it or not, I actually like keeping things SIMPLE, I know hard to accept, but I like to get as much of the science and testing out of the way once I’m confident I got the facts right. Then make as simple a system to get consistent results. Having one solid temp measuring device that’s ready just by swinging the probe open, seemed a lot simpler then the DDM and their probes. I’m still glad I bought the other probes, as unless you have at least 2, or better yet 3, it’s hard to be certain of any given reading. This is why you can buy little electronic meters, that can verify how accurate your DMM is.

BTW: There is also a product someone brought to market not long ago, a small battery vape temp reader, with different color indications on when to dab. From the photos li appeared to have a small ceramic type tip. It was not cheap either, perhaps a bit gimmicky, not sure if actually displays temperature readings. But since it was similar in price to the Thermapen Pro, I had more faith in an established company doing temperature measuring equipment for awhile now. Reason I mention it, that smaller tip might be the answer for getting a reading in tight places, like a VRod dish. I can’t speak for that product or it’s accuracy.

Hope that helps. Write me back if you get the Thermapen, and I give you some small usage tips.

 

[RustyOldNail]

@RustyOldNail here is the k-probe i use for measuring temps. https://www.instagram.com/p/B3mvl1pngWk/
let me know if you don't have access to instagram. I find the physical wire /probe fixtured on an indicator stand works best for me. This meter will export it's data into excel. The newvape controllers do allow the delta to be set as well. Years ago I used to suggest that everyone calibrate their deltas. However I've sense changed my opinion and have come to the realization that it's easier to keep the stock settings when discussing vaping techniques with people in public forums. I hope this makes sense. I've always herd that IF laser guns don't work well with shiny surfaces. They seem to work better on organic materials. here is a cheap one on amazon I prefer to attach the probe to a fixed stand so I can also eliminate those variables.

Hi Edwyn:
You don’t know me, because I have mostly spoke with Chris on the phone for all my NV gear. Love your industrial, long lasting designs and execution.

I can’t see the end of the sensor tip, can you grab a shot, or a link to that sensor? If it’s just the standard two wire thermocouple you get with most meters, I’m familiar with it, works great for a lot of applications, but not great for our purposes, but I doubt you are using that tiny wire tip in your tests.

And while I completely understand why you mounted the probe on a stand rig, I originally tried that with my handheld probes. The ribbon style, which is probably the standard most have seen or used, needed a bit of downward pressure to get a more accurate reading, and my make shift stand was not able to do that. I also noticed a decent amount of temp differences from the middle to certain areas on the sides, this spot reading was even worse with the small copper spring loaded probe, that tip is tiny like a pea. By worse I mean the readings were quite different everywhere I held it on the 30mm sapphire dish, and the spring loaded disk they use made it seem even harder to hold down steady for 20-30 seconds at a time.

Then when I saw the much larger “BELL” probe, I assume mostly used by cooks to read hit grills, I knew that would be the best size to get, and now when I take a center dish reading, it’s a better overall average of the surface temperature. As I mentioned previously, I did make sure it fit through the DCup top first.

And the point in the end was to develop a fast and easy way for an end user like me to monitor my dish, and do away with all the lab gear, stands etc. Not as applicable to your lab test needs for sure.

That’s why I ended up quite happy with the Therapen Pro, I linked above. It’s especially great for those that don’t own DDM’s, or are not familiar with their operation.

I understand your reasoning on the delta issue. A lot of folks aren’t going to be interested in the journey to getting accurate PID versus surface temperatures. For me, coming from time guessing torch and nail, the whole point was to know the surface temperature, as PID’s can be different, coil wattage, etc. etc. If one has decently calibrated equipment, it’s just some learning and experimentation, which I enjoy.

So by you sharing certain PID setting temps, you are most likely speaking to the majority of users that assume the temperature they choose on the dial, is the temperature they are vaping at. And as most know, vaping preferences are all over the scale. It’s not a big deal, as most will either increase or decrease their set temps when they fine tune their results. The problem is, since I doubt I’m all alone on this, my hopefully more accurate surface temperatures and others like me, can’t really know if sharing dab temp recommendations has any value.

So for those just joining us, it seems as far as dab temp readings, there are kinda two different “standards”, or “benchmarks”. So let’s look at just a few basic variables. First, the end devices should be the same or very similar. Since I own a DCup, all my tests were done with that, but I feel fairly confident my results would be very close to a TCup device. Next is what type of surface are you reading, as well as the PID make and model, though I would guess here that all the decent PID controllers should do their job almost the same. Coil wattage could be another factor. But for sake of this scenario, let’s say USER #1 (set his PID for the temp offset/delta), and USER #2 (uses factory PID settings, NO OFFSET), both have identical gear. They live far apart, but want to share the temperatures they are using with the same concentrate. USER #1 says I get my best dab after a 10 minute warmup, at 475f. USER #2, says he gets very little vapor at 475f on his PID.

Well USER #2’s surface was probably closer to 425f, in my own tests there was a 50f measured difference at 475f. So those users are not sure why their results at the “same” temperature were so different. There is basically two different scales if you will, at work here. So while I understand it may be more global to just share ones temp numbers based on their PID dial setting, it’s my opinion that since I don’t know how the other party is setup, posting temp settings is at best a guideline or starting point and good enough for most. Some users will even post their last dab temp and say “surface temp”, now I think, well this dude has done his homework, but then I have to remind myself that I have NO clue how they got that number? If a user also adds that it was an IR gun, then I know it’s almost always completely off, as IR meters are pretty accurate for their intended purpose, but not reading tiny areas with reflective surfaces. In this case the surface is the least issue, you just can’t get the beam or angle that the IR lens reads at, in photography it’s called “The field of view”, close enough to our tiny surfaces. Read a dark engine block on a car, and that reading will be close to accurate. Perhaps they make a super CLOSE IR reader, bet that ain’t cheap......

Anyways, that’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!

 

[Cannabis-Hardware-Ed]

@RustyOldNail I agree with everything you said above. Additionally when you add the delta to the NV pid the numbers are difficult for some to understand. Let's say the delta is -50 deg. When the cold pid is turned on the ambient temp will no longer be displayed. Instead the ambient minus delta will be displayed. It's difficult for some to understand. The newer generation enails like maxvapor do a much better job of dealing with these deltas. Have you looked at their technology? You can store different hardware profiles for each coil and banger. Maxvapor does a really nice job with this. I am waiting for the technology to progress a bit more. We have had tremendous success with the reliability of the current NV controller and coils. I'm not quite sure if customers are ready to drop another 200 on a more intelligent controller. Thanks for the dialogue. Your observations are spot on. https://maxvapornail.com/products/maxvapor-e-nail

 

[nspatient]

@RustyOldNail I agree with everything you said above. Additionally when you add the delta to the NV pid the numbers are difficult for some to understand. Let's say the delta is -50 deg. When the cold pid is turned on the ambient temp will no longer be displayed. Instead the ambient minus delta will be displayed. It's difficult for some to understand. The newer generation enails like maxvapor do a much better job of dealing with these deltas. Have you looked at their technology? You can store different hardware profiles for each coil and banger. Maxvapor does a really nice job with this. I am waiting for the technology to progress a bit more. We have had tremendous success with the reliability of the current NV controller and coils. I'm not quite sure if customers are ready to drop another 200 on a more intelligent controller. Thanks for the dialogue. Your observations are spot on. https://maxvapornail.com/products/maxvapor-e-nail

I think I'd be willing to drop another 3 bills on a controller that had a nicer finish and could provide control over the temperature during the draw. Nice finish and decent interface would be necessary.

 

[RustyOldNail]

@RustyOldNail I agree with everything you said above. Additionally when you add the delta to the NV pid the numbers are difficult for some to understand. Let's say the delta is -50 deg. When the cold pid is turned on the ambient temp will no longer be displayed. Instead the ambient minus delta will be displayed. It's difficult for some to understand. The newer generation enails like maxvapor do a much better job of dealing with these deltas. Have you looked at their technology? You can store different hardware profiles for each coil and banger. Maxvapor does a really nice job with this. I am waiting for the technology to progress a bit more. We have had tremendous success with the reliability of the current NV controller and coils. I'm not quite sure if customers are ready to drop another 200 on a more intelligent controller. Thanks for the dialogue. Your observations are spot on. https://maxvapornail.com/products/maxvapor-e-nail

I went with your Auber 300a choice, like the quick button/dial, auto off time set by user.

TIME OUT: let me take a second to say, though it’s subtle. I consider myself a good shopper/researcher, case I ain’t rich. When I infrequently come across a small shop/company like yours, and I see other brand products that I was interested in beforehand, and there is no marketing or web page bias toward which one to choose, I get more interested. Besides offering the PROPER coils to WORK with either brand, and informative videos showing the various coil types and potential interface differences. I spend a good deal of time on a website not just looking at the products I’m going to buy. So these types of small things show me the CEO or just OWNER/OPERATOR, cares about satisfying the customer and their needs, not just the bottom line. I’d bet you have a slightly better profit margin selling your imported version, over the Auber, but give the customer the option. That’s old school business and almost extinct. Keep up the great example!

Oh, so what were we talking about, PIDS, yes, while I’m in the market right now, I am curious about a PID that can deal with temperature deltas, sounds logical and certainly needed before any of us can reliably talk and compare our personal settings. As of now there are just too many variables, most don’t want or need to be bothered with. However, there has been a few posts around talking about expensive PID’s that can be preset to ramp the temperature curve. I’d like someone to explain the technology they use, or the output wattage of the unit. Because as far as I can tell with my basic PID and coil, ramping the temperatures an amount for a user to notice a positive difference in let’s say a 20 second draw? Seems impossible without far greater tech and power I have in hand. Since I don’t have the same lung power as my younger version, I don’t think I’d have time to notice a difference in 10-15 seconds, second draw even less while coughing, even less time. If it’s not a placebo effect, then I’d love to see how they pull it off.

On my DCup with 30mm Sapphire dish, with Auber 300a, custom PSL set to “1.16”, I get either spot on, or am within two degrees from my readings from the dish surface, compared to the set number on the PID. Good enough for now.....

 

[EmDeemo]

Once the whole head is up to its set temp, it takes seconds for a temp increase on the controller to start making a difference in the dish, especially if one is only going from 415f to say 460f, certainly enough of a difference in dish to help get a slightly bigger dab down in less draws but not stay at the higher temp long enough to scorch the dab or leave one with an overly harsh last inhale and a dry dish that cant be cleaned up as easy.

 

[kyshxo]

Tsunami (has T-bucket) should be here today with Carta adapter and a Sapphire dish! Follow me on IG @tnherbal for content!

 

[EmDeemo]

Tsunami (has T-bucket) should be here today with Carta adapter and a Sapphire dish! Follow me on IG @tnherbal for content!

Please post your thoughts and videos here for the rest of this sites community.

 

[Baron23]

@NewVape710 @RustyOldNail

I have run dab surface vs PID set point measurements in the past with a Liger 2.0 and D-nail Slim Line Halo and documented the delta.

But I do not change my PID settings to add an offset for this delta as...well, who cares. If I like the dab quality when my set point is 545F, does it really matter what the actual dab surface is? I think not and tend to use the PID set point as a relative setting....turn it up, it gets hotter....turn it down, it gets cooler....leave it where you liked it before, all is good.

I am interested a bit in dab surface temp and delta from PID set point when I get a new banger of some sort and in particular if that banger uses a barrel coil as I believe the delta tells me how well I have the coil fitted to the banger.

But after that....nah.

Cheers and interesting discussion.

 

[RustyOldNail]

@NewVape710 @RustyOldNail

I have run dab surface vs PID set point measurements in the past with a Liger 2.0 and D-nail Slim Line Halo and documented the delta.

But I do not change my PID settings to add an offset for this delta as...well, who cares. If I like the dab quality when my set point is 545F, does it really matter what the actual dab surface is? I think not and tend to use the PID set point as a relative setting....turn it up, it gets hotter....turn it down, it gets cooler....leave it where you liked it before, all is good.

I am interested a bit in dab surface temp and delta from PID set point when I get a new banger of some sort and in particular if that banger uses a barrel coil as I believe the delta tells me how well I have the coil fitted to the banger.

But after that....nah.

Cheers and interesting discussion.

Agreed, we could have boxes with a dial that goes from #1-#100, as long as you know what products you like at what number. What ever system one individually uses that works for them. Which is exactly why I stated that sharing/publishing their individuals vape temps, is ballpark at best, and certainly not universal as we are all not using the same measuring methodology. I like “low/med/high”. When I first got my PID, I was excited to be able to use its ability to set your own offset, then I felt a bit intimidated reading the manual. But a few days later, I decided that since it was one of the reasons I wanted a PID, I would not give up. Turns out setting the PID was a two second deal. The real time was doing all the readings at various temps. Also some other experiments, like does the piece get up to temp faster on the aluminum stand, or on the glass rig. Personally, I enjoyed the whole process, and feel satisfied, that now when I dial in 500f, my surface temp is within a degree or two, works for me.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Once the whole head is up to its set temp, it takes seconds for a temp increase on the controller to start making a difference in the dish, especially if one is only going from 415f to say 460f, certainly enough of a difference in dish to help get a slightly bigger dab down in less draws but not stay at the higher temp long enough to scorch the dab or leave one with an overly harsh last inhale and a dry dish that cant be cleaned up as easy.

Interesting, I did a quick test with the DCup, and Auber 300a PID. Set temp on PID to 500f, for 20 minutes to make sure it was as heat soaked as possible. Normally, I get to desired “surface” temp in 10 minutes (but to eliminate any doubt cup was hot, I doubled soak time).

Confirmed my surface reading using “ribbon K-type”, hand held DMM probe. Surface within 2 degrees of PID setting of 500f (I’m using a PSL offset of 1.16).

So while monitoring the temperature reading on the DMM, I quickly dialed up the PID to 525f, a 25f boost so to say. By the time the coil underneath the DCup was able to increase my surface much, was way beyond the time I could do a single slow draw hit, or even a second or third.

So I guess I’m missing something here as my Auber 300a is incapable of ramping up even small temperature increases that quickly. If another PID, perhaps the “MaxVapor PID”, can ramp up that fast I’d love to know how they do it. I’m perfectly content with my current PID, but am always curious to learn more as a lot of the gear and technology we use, is constantly changing, in many cases for the better.

Thanks emmdeemo for your interest and feedback as always!

 

[EmDeemo]

Interesting, I did a quick test with the DCup, and Auber 300a PID. Set temp on PID to 500f, for 20 minutes to make sure it was as heat soaked as possible. Normally, I get to desired “surface” temp in 10 minutes (but to eliminate any doubt cup was hot, I doubled soak time).

Confirmed my surface reading using “ribbon K-type”, hand held DMM probe. Surface within 2 degrees of PID setting of 500f (I’m using a PSL offset of 1.16).

So while monitoring the temperature reading on the DMM, I quickly dialed up the PID to 525f, a 25f boost so to say. By the time the coil underneath the DCup was able to increase my surface much, was way beyond the time I could do a single slow draw hit, or even a second or third.

So I guess I’m missing something here as my Auber 300a is incapable of ramping up even small temperature increases that quickly. If another PID, perhaps the “MaxVapor PID”, can ramp up that fast I’d love to know how they do it. I’m perfectly content with my current PID, but am always curious to learn more as a lot of the gear and technology we use, is constantly changing, in many cases for the better.

Thanks emmdeemo for your interest and feedback as always!

Theres always a chance its in my head

Dont forget things change once the carb cap comes down, and I suspect, once the carb cap hits temp too. Five degrees loss I usually get once I start to inhale, so I wonder if the increase in temp, if nothing else, is just making up for that five degree loss.

I know one member on here who torches their carb cap for an 'up temp' hit (tho that is on a different enail).

I keep meaning to get the ktype probe out and do actual dish readings but I havent yet, I will do so soon. I have a two hole carb cap so I could feasibly block one hole by shoving the probe wire thru it and take in bowl readings while the cap is on.

I suspect that at the temps I play at, any increase, even 5 degrees or so, helps get a bigger hit.

 

[canj00digit?]

I'll be 'that guy' and say bah I've had the same enail (controller and coil) running min 18hrs/day every day for nearly 8yrs now.
I'd never claim it's better for the coil, it's simply better for the convenience of the multiple people in the house. And coils are cheap enough to accept the trade off in possible reduced life.
The fire risk is always there, of course, but must be put into perspective.
Unless something contacts the coil/nail (ie it being knocked over) the risk is likely no more than any other electrical device and probably less than things like the lithium-ion batteries in our phones and vapes.

Just my opinion though, I could be a bloody fool, wouldn't be the first time.

 

[EmDeemo]

I'll be 'that guy' and say bah I've had the same enail (controller and coil) running min 18hrs/day every day for nearly 8yrs now.
I'd never claim it's better for the coil, it's simply better for the convenience of the multiple people in the house. And coils are cheap enough to accept the trade off in possible reduced life.
The fire risk is always there, of course, but must be put into perspective.
Unless something contacts the coil/nail (ie it being knocked over) the risk is likely no more than any other electrical device and probably less than things like the lithium-ion batteries in our phones and vapes.

Just my opinion though, I could be a bloody fool, wouldn't be the first time.

Fire risk aside (make sure you do a follow up post if you burn your house down, yeah? ), 8 YEARS is grand anecdotal evidence. I like it.

8 years is a decent long time!

 

[canj00digit?]

Fire risk aside (make sure you do a follow up post if you burn your house down, yeah? ), 8 YEARS is grand anecdotal evidence. I like it.

8 years is a decent long time!

I will.

Where I live I'm in way more danger of being roasted in a bush fire.

 

[EmDeemo]

I will.

Where I live I'm in way more danger of being roasted in a bush fire.

Just dont be the start of one!

 

[RustyOldNail]

Theres always a chance its in my head

Dont forget things change once the carb cap comes down, and I suspect, once the carb cap hits temp too. Five degrees loss I usually get once I start to inhale, so I wonder if the increase in temp, if nothing else, is just making up for that five degree loss.

I know one member on here who torches their carb cap for an 'up temp' hit (tho that is on a different enail).

I keep meaning to get the ktype probe out and do actual dish readings but I havent yet, I will do so soon. I have a two hole carb cap so I could feasibly block one hole by shoving the probe wire thru it and take in bowl readings while the cap is on.

I suspect that at the temps I play at, any increase, even 5 degrees or so, helps get a bigger hit.

Cool. The thin wire type thermocoupler with the tiny “bead” at the are the hardest to use properly in my experience. They really need to be physically attached to whatever surface one is trying to read. I was trying to use it to measure the temperature on a new soldering iron’s tip, unsuccessfully till I learned from the experts on the Dave Jones electronics board “EEVBlog”. I was told to make a small solder bridge between the irons tip, and the wire probes lead, now they were physically connected, and measurements were accurate. The one I’m linking below, (for the benefit of all) is great to directly read the surface of our 30mm dishes, but obviously wouldn’t fit through a carb cap hole.

Now if you can squeeze a bead tip through a carb cap, you could at least measure the AIR TEMPERATURE, inside the cup, and perhaps see what if any differences you see in your test. You won’t be getting surface temps because even if the probe “bead” tip was touching it, without some solid pressure or being physically mated, the readings won’t be accurate or terribly useful. These bead type thermocouple wires, work very well when submerged in ice cold and boiling water, two tests used for double checking many temperature probes as well as the DMM, since we know what those two temperatures are supposed to be. I’ve also been able to squeeze the “bead” in between the end wrap of the heating coils, when not installed and ran some open air tests. There are uses for these “bead” type wire sensors, just not too many that I have found, thankfully the usually include one in every DMM I’ve bought, as they are cheap, and not too durable, though I have abused a few.

Below is the KType handheld probe (can read over 1,000f), I believe Baron23 originally recommended in another thread. At $14, I wasn’t hoping for much, but after comparing to my other probes, I felt it was quite accurate and I still use it now and then to make sure my #1 probe the Thermapen Pro (575f MAX TEMP!), is accurate to a few degrees. Showing on Amazon, as “no longer sold”, but like most Chinese clones, probably the same factory making them, and rebranding. So you will be able to get the same thing with some shopping. You’ll also see these exact same probes on websites selling for $40-50, ripoff!

Now if folks own a fairly standard DDM (digital multi meter), with standard banana style female lead sockets, you will need the adapter below, as I did, none of my DDM’s have the smaller “blade type” KTYPE socket, though some meters do, never seen one myself.

K-TYPE ADAPTER:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008S0N97K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008S0N97K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL]

K-TYPE HANDHELD PROBE:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0IPBEC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Feel free if you ever want to discuss your measurement tools or techniques, just something I’ve been enjoying, along with the vape results.....