Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT

[Hackerman]

OK.... who bought my bubinga Z ???

There are a couple left showing on the web site but when I tried to put it in my cart it said, out of stock.

I ASSume there will be another batch coming along soon?

Really loving my Splinter. It put my VapCap in the drawer and that takes some doing. Eats through batteries like crazy. A Z is an absolute 'must have' for me. Guess I just wait for the next batch.

 

[analytika]

Not sure this is necessarily the case.

Let's say you are vaping through a 100% freeflowing vape and the airflow going through is about 50% speed due to slowing down your own breath. Or you get a vape where you can draw fast but the airflow is still 50% speed because it is moderated by smaller holes.


The lower airflow seems to create a back pressure as a fast pull meets the restricted ariflow, maybe causing a sort of turbulence.


All I know is, a slow draw on the Zion compared to a faster draw with the air inlet plugged up feels like a totally different vape experience.


Having tried nearly every rbt product and having adequate time with all of them, I personally find the lower airflow vapes provide a much denser, flavorful vapor much more easily.


The biggest difference for me is the Milaana vs Milaana 2. I used the Milaana for what...2 years before being introduced to the Mi2. Had plenty of experience moderating my breath and adjusting, but the Milaana 2 just provides significantly fatter clouds faster.


Just my experience and my theories based off my experience.


Just talking out my ass.


In the end, both free flowing and restricted have their benefits.

Wikipedia does a pretty good job of debunking the engineering myth of "back pressure", which is really just, in this context, a lowering of air pressure, when you pull with more force than the airflow can accommodate.

Turbulence? Not likely.

Now, does lower air pressure facilitate vaporization of cannabinoids? Seems at least possible.

Haven't run across info on that in the literature. But i do recall the founder of Uptech, W9Tech, whatever they're calling it these days, maker of the Triton, strongly debunking that idea that lower air pressure from restricted flow facilitates vaporization of cannabinoids in, at least, the case of concentrates.

His latest and, he says last, design is the most open airflow he could engineer in a decade of imagining and reimagining the design.

I think it really comes down, mostly, to compelling you to slow your draw.

 

[Stu]

Haven't run across info on that in the literature. But i do recall the founder of Uptech, W9Tech, whatever they're calling it these days, maker of the Triton, strongly debunking that idea that lower air pressure from restricted flow facilitates vaporization of cannabinoids in, at least, the case of concentrates.

I find this subject rather fascinating. After doing my own experiments I find plenty of evidence that pressure does indeed have an affect on vapor production. I'm not an expert by any means, but the more I study this, the more I tend to believe it. Why do carb caps increase vapor production if this wasn't the case? In my testing I've found that the temperature does't increase by carb capping, but actually decreases (or reduces the rate of temp increase) while simultaneously increasing visible vapor production. This goes for dabbing and herb hits IME. Why is this?

I'd love to see some real scientific data on this, though.

 

[Seek]

I prefer the hi-flow through water and generally run around 39 Watts/390F in Nickel temp mode on my DNA box.

I saaw few people mentioning the use of TC mode, which is great, my box mod can do that and it could enable long high-wattage hits without combustion. But I've always assumed it's a SS coil heater, that can be used in both TC and wattage mode. Is it nickel? Because nickel can't be used in wattage mode, and a lot of people are using the splinter in wattage mode. I'm confused. Do you use the right TC mode?

EDIT: I've just watched vapefiend's latest vid and he says there the Splinter can't be used in TC mode? So that's another conflicting information, anyone here knows how it really is?

And how evenly does the Splinter / Splinter Z vape the bowl? Does it make any hotspots that have to be stirred, or can it vape the entire bowl without stirring?

 

[ChooChooCharlie]

@Stu - maybe sensor placement issue?
Puzzled by results. here's my uninformed babble to add confusion.

Maybe post placement issue instead - go ahead and move, I don't mind

I'm wondering about carb caps, too. Don't think pressure is a factor. I agree with the dnail guy in that streaming interview video with the vape grandfathers. It's an open system.

More likely to me: architecture

The structure transforms from open to sheltered using the carb cap

Without cap, it's an open sky of cool molecules rushing in.
With cap, architecture transforms into an insulating oven.

The smaller carb cap's hole air inlet adds turbulent mixing with its velocity.
Now it's a high velocity mixing convection toaster oven.
More heated molecules interacting with our precious

Interaction is a good thing

 

[Cheesequake]

I saaw few people mentioning the use of TC mode, which is great, my box mod can do that and it could enable long high-wattage hits without combustion. But I've always assumed it's a SS coil heater, that can be used in both TC and wattage mode. Is it nickel? Because nickel can't be used in wattage mode, and a lot of people are using the splinter in wattage mode. I'm confused. Do you use the right TC mode?

EDIT: I've just watched vapefiend's latest vid and he says there the Splinter can't be used in TC mode? So that's another conflicting information, anyone here knows how it really is?

And how evenly does the Splinter / Splinter Z vape the bowl? Does it make any hotspots that have to be stirred, or can it vape the entire bowl without stirring?

TC mode isn't officially supported but it works fine.

 

[Seek]

It might work fine, but you have to know the material of the heating coil to set up the box mod right. Every material is used in TC mode differently and the box mod need to know what material is it.
Stainless steel coild are the only ones that support both wattage and TC mode, so if it's SS, it would make sense.

 

[Pyr0]

What makes you think only SS can be used in wattage and TC modes?
I've not tried them for a while, and I could very well be completely wrong, but I'm sure I've been able to run ni200 and Ti coils in wattage and TC modes in the past for ecigs

 

[SavageCore]

It might work fine, but you have to know the material of the heating coil to set up the box mod right. Every material is used in TC mode differently and the box mod need to know what material is it.
Stainless steel coild are the only ones that support both wattage and TC mode, so if it's SS, it would make sense.

It is SS. I believe Ryan was quoted saying something along the lines of leave the TC 'to the kids' and he personally only uses Wattage.

 

[Summer]

@Seek, here are posts obtained via search in this & the Splinter thread. Hopefully, @Other Side or more experienced members will weigh in with more of an explanation. The posts show that users of the Splinter are successfully employing nickel. Only 1 member post reflects titanium usage. I'm sure there are other posts, but the search feature doesn't allow searches for words less than 4 letters so forget about Ni or Ti searches.

Nickel related posts:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-79#post-1286601
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-68#post-1275939
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-39#post-1212086
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-39#post-1212084

I'm running nickel temp mode at 36 watts/365 temp and the vapor quality is amazing. Very tasty, consistent and just perfect density. You fire and the DNA mod pegs the temp with zero fluctuation in about .5 seconds.

@Other Side is one of RBT's tried & true beta-testers so if he's using nickel successfully I'd feel comfortable using it.

Titanium posts:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-71#post-1280345

 

[KeroZen]

Yes heater is SS, probably grade 316 but I don't think we got any confirmation on the exact grade.

If @Other Side is using TCR (as opposed to TFR) then it's only a single coefficient. So it doesn't matter what you chose, it's just the slope of a straight curve. There will be always be a point, given a particular temperature setting on screen, that will match and stabilize to a usable vaping temperature. If he's using TFR then it's more puzzling...

Chances are that when he's using Nickel coeff. and 365°F on screen, he's getting a much different effective vapour temperature.

Now when you raise or lower the set temperature while using the wrong material coefficient, the real temperature will depart from the curve wildly. With some combos, you'll have to change the number on screen a lot in order to change the real temperature a little. And with others it will be the inverse, changing just a little the screen temperature will yield a huge variation in the real outcome.

Sometimes when you fall in that first combo case, it can prove useful. Say for instance, you have a mod that can only change in +/-5°C increments (that's a lot of °F) then maybe using the right coefficient would limit you to a few usable temperature settings. But using the wrong one might allow you to have a much larger usable settings range. The downside being that the numbers on screen are absolutely not representing the reality, but as long as it's consistent you just get used to it.

 

[Seek]

What makes you think only SS can be used in wattage and TC modes?
I've not tried them for a while, and I could very well be completely wrong, but I'm sure I've been able to run ni200 and Ti coils in wattage and TC modes in the past for ecigs

Nickel and Titanium can release toxic fumes when heated above certain temperature. And TC can keep it from reaching that, while wattage mode can easily overheat the coil. Their resistance changes significantly when hot, which can make TC control easy for the vape, but wattage control inconsistent.
Kanthal has almost zero change of resistance when heated, so it can't be used for TC because it doesn't give the vape any info about its temperature.
SS changes the resistance slightly when hot, so its harder, but possible to use in TC and its still consistent enough for wattage mode. Also it doesn't release any fumes when overheated.

But there are also differend kind of nickel etc, like Ni20 and Ni80, and they have different properties. Don't know if what I said applies to every kind.

And when you tell your mod a wrong material, it will assume wrong responses to heat, and it will probably reach wrong temperature, have nonlinear rensponse and weird hysteresis. That assuming it will successfully cutoff the current at some point at all.

I think that the heater in a convection vape like this need to get hotter than a coil in e-liquid tank to properly function. The coils in tanks are in direct contact with the wick, so the heat is transferrent directly by conduction (which is very effective on liquids). In the Splinter, you don't have any wicks and you are heating the passing air, nad it's won't heat it up to its temp, so it needs to be hotter to heat the air up to 200 celsius. That is probably why people complained that the SS mode was too cold and nickel mode worked better. The SS mode heated it correnty, but they set the temp too low. And when you tell the mod that it's nickel, it will expect bigger changes of resistance per a degree celsius. So when it detect that change, it is already much hotter than it thinks. So the reached temperature is wrong - too high, but that high temp is what you need it to work.

 

[Other Side]

Here is the deal gang, I am not a mod box expert but I have owned a number of different models and used them with just about any wax or dry herb atty you can think of.

As for the settings, I don't get into downloading custom settings/profiles. I have been sticking with stock settings and mostly with the DNA mods I own. I don't use any TCR value like you need to set on some of them. I use the profiles set up as default and adjust them to my liking. At the end of the day I find these settings to be excellent to get top shelf vapor quality/taste without combustion or much of a need for stirring. The Splinter/Splinter Z are my favorite dry herb atty's. In my opinion the look the nicest, perform the best and are more straight forward to deal with (no coil tinkering and set/forget once you find what you like) then the competition.

 

[Summer]

Nickel and Titanium can release toxic fumes when heated above certain temperature. And TC can keep it from reaching that, while wattage mode can easily overheat the coil.

Can't speak for Nickel, but I thought I read in a post somewhere that Titanium is only toxic if the medium used is a liquid.

Now when you raise or lower the set temperature while using the wrong material coefficient, the real temperature will depart from the curve wildly.

While the mathematics of this went over my head, I get the gist of what you said. But do you have to be concerned that the TCR & temp values used while in the wrong material coefficient will result in incorrect wattage being displayed & therefore possibly exceeding the 50W safe level for the Splinter?

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Lots of useful info on the subject in this thread. Might be worth a read a lot the same question on mods and TC settings are answered in great detail.
Splinter core either 316 or 316L stainless steel
with mica.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/

Here's one that i like for the 75c/250c

http://www.djlsbvapes.com/evolvdna/

The ones for the olderDNA's are in FCSHARE file.

https://forum.evolvapor.com/files/file/567-fcshare/

Will update when i receive the Z and have few days of testing with it.

 

[Summer]

Lots of useful info on the subject in this thread. Might be worth a read a lot the same question on mods and TC settings are answered in great detail.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tc-box-mods-firmware-discussions-and-customizing.23742/

 

[KeroZen]

@Summer: No, Watts going to the atty will always be correct as they depend on the ohmmeter readings, which are independent from TC and materials selection. In fact the mod only sees resistance readings and that's all, there is no temperature sensor in the atty.

All that TC mode does is just trying to extrapolate a temperature from the resistance readings, and also trying to stop applying the power you selected (max watts setting) once the resistance increases to what it expects to be for a given set temperature.

As for Titanium, the problem is that it can ignite explosively if you heat it too much (and with super thin wires it happens fast) hence why you should never use that material in power mode. Plus there are also some concerns over oxides formation at high temperatures, but nothing conclusive so far, yet better be safe than sorry. We're getting seriously off-topic there indeed!

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

We got to at least try
The DIY section really not the first place most member would look for this type of info. Plus a lot of it's spread around muti threads @Summer has help sorting some of it.

I though about making a new thread for DNA mods but that would just add more confusion. So try to link to where most of the answer are alright covered and discussed. Some of them are long and to retype info over and over in muti threads clogs up the forums.

I'm still learn new things on the dna setting. So by all means my setting aren't 100% perfect just sharing what I founds that works best for me. Hopefully these premade setting help some folks get there mods workings save someone some frustration. Allow them to enjoy device till they have the time to experiment more with the mod

 

[Lazy Lighting]

Ryan posted a pic on IG of a 3d printed box mod where the 510 connector was almost flush with the bottom of the unit. Created a nicer form factor. Thinking about building one myself with a DNA board. Has anyone tried making one taylored to the splitner and splinter z?

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

Ryan posted a pic on IG of a 3d printed box mod where the 510 connector was almost flush with the bottom of the unit. Created a nicer form factor. Thinking about building one myself with a DNA board. Has anyone tried making one taylored to the splitner and splinter z?

Been a lot discussion but no real progress on a it.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/l-shaped-side-by-side-mod-box-enclosure.30564/#post-1307584

 

[Summer]

Ryan posted a pic on IG of a 3d printed box mod where the 510 connector was almost flush with the bottom of the unit.

It's not a 510 Splinter, it's a Splinter with leads called the PAM (Phat Ass Module) sold on his website.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-96#post-1306611
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307122
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307128

 

[Hogni]

What a - unnecessary - big confusion!

 

[AJS]

For those of you as completely brain dead as me when it comes to mods and temp control, SS, nickels, quarters, dimes, DNA double helix reverse polarity combustion, etc

I screw in my Splinter. Google how to change settings on my mod. I find TCR M1. I set the tcr to 180 and a temperature to vape at. If the temperature gets my herb too dark or too light I adjust the tcr. Just takes a few adjustments to get a good representative temp.

I don't know what it all means, I just move a number (tcr) up and down until the other number (temperature) seems accurate when I vape.

Edit: oh yeah...what I can here to say.

Been using the MIQRO for a while for little session dosing, lot of fun. I brought out the Splinter Z tho and WOW the clouds are just so much larger. Takes longer to get a hit and there is more air involved upfront but once it starts, it really pours. I get way more medicated off the same amount of herb.

Found a better way to get much better flavor. I just stopped preheating as much. Has made a huge difference. I guess that sudden burst of heat can darken too quickly and not fully release the terps. When I use it like a Milaana tho and ride through the temps the flavor is much better and the Z ramps up fast enough to where I still get a large cloud pretty fast.

 

[Lazy Lighting]

It's not a 510 Splinter, it's a Splinter with leads called the PAM (Phat Ass Module) sold on his website.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-96#post-1306611
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307122
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307128

Thanks that's good to know. Love maker projects. Sad I missed out on that.

 

[HerbieVonVapster]

It's not a 510 Splinter, it's a Splinter with leads called the PAM (Phat Ass Module) sold on his website.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-96#post-1306611
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307122
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-splinter-by-rbt.23476/page-97#post-1307128

What a - unnecessary - big confusion!

Yea that suck if you bought that not knowing. Still I like the ideal for the diy types.

For those of you as completely brain dead as me when it comes to mods and temp control, SS, nickels, quarters, dimes, DNA double helix reverse polarity combustion, etc

I screw in my Splinter. Google how to change settings on my mod. I find TCR M1. I set the tcr to 180 and a temperature to vape at. If the temperature gets my herb too dark or too light I adjust the tcr. Just takes a few adjustments to get a good representative temp.

I don't know what it all means, I just move a number (tcr) up and down until the other number (temperature) seems accurate when I vape.

When testing TCR found found my ideal setting was around 150. Easy good instruction for a non DNA mod. It getting you producing clouds. On some mod they only do TCR then the above works just use a material suited for TC.

If mod is able do more it's worth taking the time to explore the options I feel. The DNA are awesome mods but the settings you use will either make or break the experience.

Ugh didn't mean to double post