KidFated.
Unknown Member
Yeah I misread cybrguy. Thanks for pointing it out.
Discontinued Splinter Z by RBT
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Monkeyhouse
Accessory Maker
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
More cross-posting:
Dark Walnut 14mm tip on Blackwood
Canary on Canary, both made by Alan
RBT US xl8r jr + custom 14mm adapter
Custom bent stems, still my favorite
Now I'm off to go through water with Z!
Dark Walnut 14mm tip on Blackwood
Canary on Canary, both made by Alan
RBT US xl8r jr + custom 14mm adapter
Custom bent stems, still my favorite
Now I'm off to go through water with Z!
Standard 18mm to 18mm male/male adapter works fine.
reeefermadness
Member
https://modpodlabs.com/product/cooling-stem/
Has anyone try this on the splinter or splinter z? It’s got a build in glass screen. Wondering if it fits. Rbt gets sold out fast.
Has anyone try this on the splinter or splinter z? It’s got a build in glass screen. Wondering if it fits. Rbt gets sold out fast.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I was ready to pull the trigger on the XL8R kit at VGoodiez but convinced myself I needed that VT75D from HCigar more.
I'll be back...
I can't tell from the pic, but if it is an ISO standard joint (19/26) it won't work with any RBT units. If it is US standard (19/22) it will fit on older RBT units and the Z or Milaana. The newer OGs and the Chinese made units (V1 and V2) spec at 19mm deep so if they are built to spec that joint will be too long. Some seem to be deeper...
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I used them in my splinter-z while in Jamaica for a week
(I installed an additional SS screen in there though to avoid bits getting through)Edit: They sure aren't real thick ... nothing like the original RBT cooling stems that's for sure!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So far V2 seems to fit all 22mm joint lengths too, haven't heard from anyone saying otherwise yet... Despite supposedly being 19/19
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
My older xl8r jr is even fitting well with a flat steel rimmed screen (all that fits that)
Monkeyhouse
Accessory Maker
Before I sold my V1 I tried all my stems with it and all of my 19/22 stems fit no problem, infact my OG splinter was more picky and that was from before the 19/19 reduction. Most of the stems fit with a metal rimmed basket, but some only fit with the RBT screens. It seems to be trial and error for the most part unfortunately.
Hammahead
Well-Known Member
Two remarks: the cleaning is a bit annoying as there will always remain a few drops in the mouthpiece after you blew out most of it. So I start with ISO and then rinse with warm water, so the residue is water. It's a little less than great but it's ok, give that it's great performance, see my 2nd remark
I started using the cooling mouthpiece Zion style I guess, I only know the Zion from videos.. I found the screen of the Sticky Brick more or less fits inside the connector on top of the small hole so between that screen and the basket screen there is a nice little chamber for more material than fits into the basket screen. And it's a lot easier to stir. When I only fill it half, instead of stirring, I can just blow into the mouthpiece to remix the material. I'm using it in watt mode with the mouthpiece, at between 45 and 55°C and have a super even roast with minimum effort. This way I have huge clouds within a few seconds and with a maximum 5 second puff. What a versatile beast that thing is
- I hardly use my Hopper any more.
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Easywider
Simple is the way
I forgot to mention this ^^^ very fragile if yo drop them they will break. I bought 2 and dropped one from 6-7 inches onto a countertop
I use mine with basket screens.I do this as well, If you want to use it again ASAP. You can hit it quick with a blow dyer or microwave for 30seconds. The residual heat will dry it up nice.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
So, what happened to you guys? Nobody held me back, I am not responsible for this decision...
This is really what led me to "invest" in the Mod instead of the glass. I have a feeling the Mod is gonna last a lot longer. I don't expect a thin walled mouthpiece to last very long for me.I forgot to mention this ^^^ very fragile if yo drop them they will break. I bought 2 and dropped one from 6-7 inches onto a countertop
The attraction of RBT's for me was the thick glass...
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh yeah the xl8r jr that came with my Canary Z is super thick, and so is the drydrotube, I guess it is nice to have a thinner cheaper option available too
Easywider
Simple is the way
Yeah The Xl8r stems seem about 3 times thicker than the MPL ones. Xl8r is super durable I drop it ALL THE TIME 
But I do like the smaller diameter of the MPL ones and I find they restrict airflow more which helps me as my lungs always wanna pull like every draw is my last draw. Still trying to get my hands on an Xl8r junior. PV has stock now for Canadians waiting for them to be posted to the site 
But I do like the smaller diameter of the MPL ones and I find they restrict airflow more which helps me as my lungs always wanna pull like every draw is my last draw. Still trying to get my hands on an Xl8r junior. PV has stock now for Canadians waiting for them to be posted to the site Just got my secondhand splinter z and an rx300 mod in the mail and was able to get a test puff but I’m feeling a bit overmatched as I look at trying to actually making the most of what seems to be a powerful and useful device. Any tips for a complete noob wrt mod boxes and the like. I’ve used handheld unregulated devices mostly and I use my Apollo regularly. But the mod thing is definitely a new world. Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers!
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
Just use it like the unregulated mods to begin with. Start in Power mode around 30 watts, press the fire button, wait a couple seconds for a little pre heat, then do a slow to medium draw till you feel the draw happening. Keep drawing past the release of the fire button, add/minus watts till you find your sweet spot. You'll get the hang of how long to draw and when to release the button.
Works great like that, you can mess with the tc stuff later, if even needed.
Have fun with the new vape.
Works great like that, you can mess with the tc stuff later, if even needed.
Have fun with the new vape.
I guess that’s essentially what I’ve been doing. The seller had AF installed with a splinter profile and it’s showing 40 watts but when I press the button it says 50 and some sort of countdown circle begins. I am getting nice pulls and not combusting but the extraction is a lot quicker than my Mi1. I’ll keep playing with it and lurk and read thru the sub. Thanks!
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
I've only tried AF for a minute, so I couldn't be of much help on getting you lowered wattage or switched over to a straight Power mode. 40 watts is kinda high and if it kicks up to 50 for a pre heat, that would lead to the quicker extraction, but your not combusting, so that's the main thing.
Lower wattage will get you longer sessions per bowl when you get the ins and outs of your mod figured out.
That mod can also accept the Funky Junky firmware which has a nice power mode with no cut off timer.
reeefermadness
Member
What setting are you guys using in the dna mod? As in ss316 ss430, kanthal, nickel 200, titanium, blah, blah, blah. Or is it just something everyone’s just playing around with? I got a dna 250c and I have no idea..... plain old wattage mode whoops my ass, but I wanna use the full potential of my dna250c thanks guys!!
kuzko
Well-Known Member
I’ve used both Nickel 200 and SS316 as material profiles for the Splinter on DNA mods but the best thing to do is download the custom Splinter material profile off escribe that another FC member created. There’s a link a page or two back from someone else asking.
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