Today only or what? I have some friends to tell about this saleHey!
code: fchalloween for 20% off your order! Happy Halloween!
fyi, site says code invalid, but theres an auto -20% for almost everything. (NOT the 8.00 19-14 adapter, but almost anything else... I might have preordered TOO pre!)Today only or what? I have some friends to tell about this sale
I have a Splinter v2, not a z, but I found a huge difference if you dramatically slow your draw speed. Have you tried that?Hmm. So questionable performance, my screen timesout after about 10 seconds and I think it stops firing as well so long draws resulted in weak results. I started refiring around time out and started to get better performance. I'm up to 425 f 50w and
.43ohms. I switched to wattage mode, 33 watts. The stem got hot pretty quick, but not much vapor. Some nice low temp effects, but not getting log strength yet... Later tonight I'll try some more combination, for now I switch to an actual log vape to put me back to sleep..
Thresholds. How much ohms of resistance is too much. What temps border on too high. What wattage is too high? How much max ohms to watts when in wattage mode?
Thanks yall
I'm not sure what's going on with this recent attempt you describe but that performance is unacceptable.Hmm. So questionable performance, my screen timesout after about 10 seconds and I think it stops firing as well so long draws resulted in weak results. I started refiring around time out and started to get better performance. I'm up to 425 f 50w and
.43ohms. I switched to wattage mode, 33 watts. The stem got hot pretty quick, but not much vapor. Some nice low temp effects, but not getting log strength yet... Later tonight I'll try some more combination, for now I switch to an actual log vape to put me back to sleep..
Thresholds. How much ohms of resistance is too much. What temps border on too high. What wattage is too high? How much max ohms to watts when in wattage mode?
Thanks yall
If you put downward pressure on it while turning you might be able to unscrew it. Once you get it off the mod box, you can repair this yourself with some Krazy Glue or similar. This was a common problem with early beta test Splinters and I and a few other testers did this repair. I can't speak for the others but my beta Splinter has been fine ever since.
From the RBT website.
Is adhesive used in RBT products and is it in the flow path?
Yes, Loctite® M-121HP™ Hysol® Medical Device Epoxy Adhesive (ISO 10993) is used to attach the rim of the heater glass to the wood. This is the coolest part of the heater glass and rarely does it reach over 150 degrees F which is well below the 300 F temperature limit of the this epoxy. The adhesive is not part of the primary flow path and has minimal exposed surfaces
Depending on the age and if you can prove the date of purchase this is normally covered under warranty.
Hey my splinter got separated too. Is any kind of those super glues suitable? That metal gets hot as fuck wouldn't it be toxic?
My bubinga Z is a custom and the finish hasn't help up as well as my ZV1 and ZV2. Performance is close since they're all on DNAc mods but the Chinese Zs are both a bit more even too so you might consider a Chinese Z as your backup.Damn, was gonna grab a back up custom Z finally, Purpleheart this time, but I see they are sold out now... I could just get canarywood again to have it be a full on back up spare, or I suppose bubinga maybe, but I dono if I am feeling it or not... Anyone with a Bubinga Z wanna share some photos to tempt me?
My bubinga Z is a custom and the finish hasn't help up as well as my ZV1 and ZV2. Performance is close since they're all on DNAc mods but the Chinese Zs are both a bit more even too so you might consider a Chinese Z as your backup.
Hey my splinter got separated too. Is any kind of those super glues suitable? That metal gets hot as fuck wouldn't it be toxic?
The glue is nowhere near anything that gets that hot. The glass gets mildly warm but not hot enough to be a concern. As far as I know, any kind of cyanoacrylate is fine.
That sounds about right for what Chinese Z’s retail for. Simplicity is their draw.Thanks for the help guys.
Glued it with epoxy yesterday and there was a bit of a smell that seems to be gone by now. I was a bit surprised by how simple the Z is. I thought the part I couldn't see had a bit more thecnology, but it is really simple. Seems like a similar vape could be made in a 3rd world country for like 20 ou 30 bucks.
Exactly. They do make em cheaper. But Ryan’s gotta be making something!That sounds about right for what Chinese Z’s retail for. Simplicity is their draw.
Hey folks ... anyone that purchases from RBT before midnight CMT 11/10 (Code by Cole in Prior post) gets entered to win the KG Woodcraft @khelek41girl Skeletor Finger VapCap Stem. Also a chance to see it and win it on IG!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4dEuUAnUO2/
Indeed there is: @HerbieVonVapster created DNA and DNAc ecigprofiles for the Splinter and Splinter Z. You can run escribe on a computer and put them on your mod to take out the guess work and get great TC results with your Z.I got a DNA 75 mod and was wondering if there was any better options besides just wattage mode? Don't get me wrong, wattage mode gets me great results but was wondering if I could use some of these extra features on the mod for some temp control. Or has anyone used the lamart firmware or articfox with the Z with good results?