Discontinued RBT Milaana 1, 2, 3
- Thread starter RastaBuddhaTao
- Start date
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I've been loving my little RBT family, they're a wonderful bunch. These are the 3 stem styles I've been using the most lately. The stem with the flared mouthpiece on my Mi2 was something I picked up from Aliexpress and then ground down with my dremel.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
Man that pic is beautiful. I want one.
Your Mi3 has now been dubbed, The Tiger King
NitroRIP
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to express my extreme disappointment in relation to my Mi3 preorder -I still have not received it. I realise I'm not in the U.S, but I am in Australia which has first world logistics and supply chains.
Have been extremely patient throughout this process but am now really starting to get the shits. I contacted Ryan and he told me to check tracking -I did so and found out it is still in the US. Was not even dispatched until the end of April.
Then I read on this forum all about how everyone has been taken care of, new Mi3's on sale in shop, free Mi3 giveaway etc.
My unit was ordered and paid for in August 2019 -that is shocking customer service in anyone's language....
Now I'm just praying that when it does arrive, I won't have a problem with button.......
(It says first post but was also a member of old FC)
z0r
New Member
I can only speak to your shipping woes....I definitely feel your frustration, I've had so many issues with shipping across different vendors and it can be infuriating as sometimes we are completely at their mercy. Who has the shipment, currently? Have you tried to contact them? Even in the first world, logistics have suffered and been unpredictable. I hope your shipment hasn't been lost!
seki
Well-Known Member
I feel for you. I'm also a non-US customer and I may have been the first, if not definitely one of the first few pre-orders. I actually ordered on August 9, a day before Ryan posted to FC asking people to check their email.
I was also able to order back when non-US orders weren't been taken due to a US mailing address I had access to, but I later changed this to ship to Canada with Cole when they opened it up to international orders.
I'm still waiting on two units myself, and mine weren't mailed out until early May. I will say though, I've gone through all of the RBT threads from the Zion to the Mi3, and yeah, there are some hard feelings and some contentious exchanges, but from what I saw/read, Ryan does make good on things with his customers. You might have to prod him a little, but he'll get there eventually.
Having said that, I'm definitely feeling the frustration too. I convinced a friend to order one and he placed his order the day after me. He got his order a few months back, had a faulty button, returned it, got it repaired and sent back to him, while mine still haven't arrived,
.I mailed Ryan a few days ago and had pretty much the exact same exchange you did. Really though, there isn't much that can be done outside of waiting on the postal service. Delays with Covid, and now the civil unrest in America are just compounding the issue.
For what it's worth, mine were mailed out on May 6, they didn't have any movement until May 12 to another in-state facility, then again no movement until May 25 where it said the package was dispatched to Canada. It's been in that state since then, and Canada Post has not yet received it.
We're experiencing some pretty extraordinary circumstances and it sucks, but I think our only option is to be patient. It might take a bit more time, but I'm confident we'll get sorted out eventually, one way or another.
Apologies if posting shipping info here is inappropriate, the old FC shipping thread is pretty dead, and there is no new thread here as far as I can tell. I wasn't sure if I should request creating one given the state of things currently.
NitroRIP
Well-Known Member
I feel for you. I'm also a non-US customer and I may have been the first, if not definitely one of the first few pre-orders. I actually ordered on August 9, a day before Ryan posted to FC asking people to check their email.
I was also able to order back when non-US orders weren't been taken due to a US mailing address I had access to, but I later changed this to ship to Canada with Cole when they opened it up to international orders.
I'm still waiting on two units myself, and mine weren't mailed out until early May. I will say though, I've gone through all of the RBT threads from the Zion to the Mi3, and yeah, there are some hard feelings and some contentious exchanges, but from what I saw/read, Ryan does make good on things with his customers. You might have to prod him a little, but he'll get there eventually.
Having said that, I'm definitely feeling the frustration too. I convinced a friend to order one and he placed his order the day after me. He got his order a few months back, had a faulty button, returned it, got it repaired and sent back to him, while mine still haven't arrived,
I mailed Ryan a few days ago and had pretty much the exact same exchange you did. Really though, there isn't much that can be done outside of waiting on the postal service. Delays with Covid, and now the civil unrest in America are just compounding the issue.
For what it's worth, mine were mailed out on May 6, they didn't have any movement until May 12 to another in-state facility, then again no movement until May 25 where it said the package was dispatched to Canada. It's been in that state since then, and Canada Post has not yet received it.
We're experiencing some pretty extraordinary circumstances and it sucks, but I think our only option is to be patient. It might take a bit more time, but I'm confident we'll get sorted out eventually, one way or another.
Apologies if posting shipping info here is inappropriate, the old FC shipping thread is pretty dead, and there is no new thread here as far as I can tell. I wasn't sure if I should request creating one given the state of things currently.
Cheers for the responses guys, makes me feel a little better seeing as I am not the only one still waiting. I understand the constraints that Covid-19 and BLM have placed on shipping but honestly I did expect product to be dispatched well before they became an issue -but as you say all I can do is wait.
While I'm here, does anyone have any recommendations in regards to batteries? This is the first electric/electronic vape that I have bought -have only ever used the Sticky Brick OG and vapcaps since I switched from smoking -so not so battery savvy. Am leaning towards the Sony and LG brands, tossing up between the VTC5/VTC5A/VTC6/VTC6A or HG 2. The VTC6A is the most expensive -but not sure if it's the best in relation to the Mi3 though. I assume flat tops are the go, as opposed to nipples. Finally, how many batteries would you guys recommend to enjoy long sessions with the Mi3?
Much appreciated.
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SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
Trust in Mooch
. Mooch's Recommended Batteries
You are responsible for your own safety! These batteries are designed, manufactured, and sold only for use in a battery pack with the proper protection circuitry and battery management system. They were not designed for vaping (electronic...
www.e-cigarette-forum.com
VTC5A would be a really good battery for the Milaana, it's his second best rated cell in the unregulated table. I wouldn't use a VTC6/HG2/30Q in an unregulated mod myself as I'm paranoid as hell when it comes to liion cells. I went with the Molicel 26A from 18650batterystore.com and it's a great battery for my Mi2 and Mi3. I don't take my cells low, no less than 3.6V and I see at least 7 bowls though I've documented as high as 11 I believe before I hit 3.6V. I haven't done back to back sessions with equally measured loads and timed button depressions but it's good enough for me. My Mi3 runs hot where as the cooler units will use more battery as you're riding the button more.
Orison
Member
I just wanted to share a pic of a beautiful spalted Milaana from the old fc.
z0r
New Member
@NitroRIP I have begun tracking my batteries by use, but unfortunately don't think this will help you too much as I don't have the brands. This isn't terribly scientific as my usage isn't consistent, but I wanted it to be more realistic to how I use the device (so far at least). Each session is a 0.08-0.12g dose, I was tracking how long I'd take for each hit but that became more tedious than I had patience for. Anyway, still very incomplete, and mostly anecdotal, but I'm happy to share after I complete this
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Can you explain the aforementioned paranoia? I use HG2 cells for pretty much everything these days, including my Milaana 2 and 3.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Perhaps @SquirrelMaster is just worried about the lower rated amps (30Q and HG2 are only 18A instead of the recommended 20A of 25R and HE4) but they are definitely fine to use in Milaana as RBT even used to sell/include an HG2 with them...
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
What is Milaana's resistance? (The discussion is correct as to the numbers even though they are based on you making your own RDA.)
Vaping 101: Battery Safety
Unregulated Single Battery Mod
Let's say we have a single coil build in an RDA on a single battery tube mod that came out at .35 ohms. Using Ohms Law, (4.2/.35) = 12A. We will need a battery that can handle at least 12A. We should add a safety buffer of 10%, making that 13.2A. We could get a battery with a higher capacity quite easily that will handle this build. The Samsung 30Q 15A 3000mah 18650 would be a good fit in this case as we saw with a regulated set up above.
What if we wanted to switch that around and find out what build we can use with our battery with the same build? We would rearrange ohms law to (Voltage/Amps = Resistance). Let's say we have a 20A/4.2V battery what build can we use? I would add in a generous safety buffer of 3A (15%) and change that to 4.2V/17A. (4.2/17) = .247 or .25ohm build for your RDA.
Unregulated Parallel Mod
As you can see in the diagram above there are two different types of battery configurations available in two battery unregulated mods, parallel and series.
In parallel batter configurations, that positive terminals together as are the negative terminals. This type of wiring allows for the the over all voltage of the power cells to remain at 4.2V but on paper it doubles the amperage.
In real life however the amperage basically increases by 50% due to resistance inserted due to the wires, battery sled and other factors. If your mod has two 20A batteries in parallel you now have a 30A cell. If you have two 30A batteries in parallel you now have 40A available to your mod.
Increasing the amperage of your mod makes lower ohm builds available to you which you can prove thanks to ohms law. Let's say we now have two LG HG6 cells, which are 1500mah 30A each. Using ohms law, with our 3A buffer, we can calculate (4.2/37) to get .113 ohms.
I still would not build that low on a mech just due to the fact that ohm meters are only accurate to .01ohm at that level but I would feel safe with a .13 build.
These precautions with low ohm builds may seem overly cautious but that is what makes me feel safe using these devices. I like having all my fingers and face intact.
Unregulated Series Mod
In a series mod you have a reverse configuration to that which we saw with parallel mods. The positive terminal is connected to the negative terminal of the next battery and vice versa. This also creates exactly the reverse effect: the voltage doubles and the overall amperage stays the same.
In this setup a previously safe build on single mode would now be unsafe since as you can prove with ohms law. Let's use that same 17A but this time the voltage is 8.4. (8.4/17) = 0.494ohm.
That previous build we were using on single battery of .247ohm is now pulling (8.4/.247) is now pulling over 40A! That is super unsafe as we only have 17A available to us.
Editor's note: If you are a new(er) vape user we would recommend against getting one of the mechanical / unregulated mods. Unregulated mods require a lot more knowledge than just the standard regulated mods / sub-ohm tank combo due to their lack of safety features. We consider unregulated mods an advanced user only item. Personally, we pretty much only use regulated mods these days for safety protections and the vape experience is customized!
Vaping 101: Battery Safety
Unregulated Single Battery Mod
Let's say we have a single coil build in an RDA on a single battery tube mod that came out at .35 ohms. Using Ohms Law, (4.2/.35) = 12A. We will need a battery that can handle at least 12A. We should add a safety buffer of 10%, making that 13.2A. We could get a battery with a higher capacity quite easily that will handle this build. The Samsung 30Q 15A 3000mah 18650 would be a good fit in this case as we saw with a regulated set up above.
What if we wanted to switch that around and find out what build we can use with our battery with the same build? We would rearrange ohms law to (Voltage/Amps = Resistance). Let's say we have a 20A/4.2V battery what build can we use? I would add in a generous safety buffer of 3A (15%) and change that to 4.2V/17A. (4.2/17) = .247 or .25ohm build for your RDA.
Unregulated Parallel Mod
As you can see in the diagram above there are two different types of battery configurations available in two battery unregulated mods, parallel and series.
In parallel batter configurations, that positive terminals together as are the negative terminals. This type of wiring allows for the the over all voltage of the power cells to remain at 4.2V but on paper it doubles the amperage.
In real life however the amperage basically increases by 50% due to resistance inserted due to the wires, battery sled and other factors. If your mod has two 20A batteries in parallel you now have a 30A cell. If you have two 30A batteries in parallel you now have 40A available to your mod.
Increasing the amperage of your mod makes lower ohm builds available to you which you can prove thanks to ohms law. Let's say we now have two LG HG6 cells, which are 1500mah 30A each. Using ohms law, with our 3A buffer, we can calculate (4.2/37) to get .113 ohms.
I still would not build that low on a mech just due to the fact that ohm meters are only accurate to .01ohm at that level but I would feel safe with a .13 build.
These precautions with low ohm builds may seem overly cautious but that is what makes me feel safe using these devices. I like having all my fingers and face intact.
Unregulated Series Mod
In a series mod you have a reverse configuration to that which we saw with parallel mods. The positive terminal is connected to the negative terminal of the next battery and vice versa. This also creates exactly the reverse effect: the voltage doubles and the overall amperage stays the same.
In this setup a previously safe build on single mode would now be unsafe since as you can prove with ohms law. Let's use that same 17A but this time the voltage is 8.4. (8.4/17) = 0.494ohm.
That previous build we were using on single battery of .247ohm is now pulling (8.4/.247) is now pulling over 40A! That is super unsafe as we only have 17A available to us.
Editor's note: If you are a new(er) vape user we would recommend against getting one of the mechanical / unregulated mods. Unregulated mods require a lot more knowledge than just the standard regulated mods / sub-ohm tank combo due to their lack of safety features. We consider unregulated mods an advanced user only item. Personally, we pretty much only use regulated mods these days for safety protections and the vape experience is customized!
Last edited by a moderator:
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
You got it @Shit Snacks the lower discharge rating on those cells is what worries me. You're fine (as is everyone else) I'm sure @bossman as Ryan said the Milaana heater is only drawing around 10A. I double checked with him on live stream a month or so ago because I was curious what watt rating (roughly) a Milaana would be running at. Liion cells just freak me out when they're not in a regulated device. I go above and beyond to satisfy my OCD brain, I'm weird like that.
DocAnchovy
Well-Known Member
Good TC information from user SEEK -
"Nickel and Titanium can release toxic fumes when heated above certain temperature. And TC can keep it from reaching that, while wattage mode can easily overheat the coil. Their resistance changes significantly when hot, which can make TC control easy for the vape, but wattage control inconsistent.
Kanthal has almost zero change of resistance when heated, so it can't be used for TC because it doesn't give the vape any info about its temperature.
SS changes the resistance slightly when hot, so its harder, but possible to use in TC and its still consistent enough for wattage mode. Also it doesn't release any fumes when overheated.
But there are also differend kind of nickel etc, like Ni20 and Ni80, and they have different properties. Don't know if what I said applies to every kind.
And when you tell your mod a wrong material, it will assume wrong responses to heat, and it will probably reach wrong temperature, have nonlinear rensponse and weird hysteresis. That assuming it will successfully cutoff the current at some point at all.
I think that the heater in a convection vape like this need to get hotter than a coil in e-liquid tank to properly function. The coils in tanks are in direct contact with the wick, so the heat is transferrent directly by conduction (which is very effective on liquids). In the Splinter, you don't have any wicks and you are heating the passing air, nad it's won't heat it up to its temp, so it needs to be hotter to heat the air up to 200 celsius. That is probably why people complained that the SS mode was too cold and nickel mode worked better. The SS mode heated it correnty, but they set the temp too low. And when you tell the mod that it's nickel, it will expect bigger changes of resistance per a degree celsius. So when it detect that change, it is already much hotter than it thinks. So the reached temperature is wrong - too high, but that high temp is what you need it to work."
"Nickel and Titanium can release toxic fumes when heated above certain temperature. And TC can keep it from reaching that, while wattage mode can easily overheat the coil. Their resistance changes significantly when hot, which can make TC control easy for the vape, but wattage control inconsistent.
Kanthal has almost zero change of resistance when heated, so it can't be used for TC because it doesn't give the vape any info about its temperature.
SS changes the resistance slightly when hot, so its harder, but possible to use in TC and its still consistent enough for wattage mode. Also it doesn't release any fumes when overheated.
But there are also differend kind of nickel etc, like Ni20 and Ni80, and they have different properties. Don't know if what I said applies to every kind.
And when you tell your mod a wrong material, it will assume wrong responses to heat, and it will probably reach wrong temperature, have nonlinear rensponse and weird hysteresis. That assuming it will successfully cutoff the current at some point at all.
I think that the heater in a convection vape like this need to get hotter than a coil in e-liquid tank to properly function. The coils in tanks are in direct contact with the wick, so the heat is transferrent directly by conduction (which is very effective on liquids). In the Splinter, you don't have any wicks and you are heating the passing air, nad it's won't heat it up to its temp, so it needs to be hotter to heat the air up to 200 celsius. That is probably why people complained that the SS mode was too cold and nickel mode worked better. The SS mode heated it correnty, but they set the temp too low. And when you tell the mod that it's nickel, it will expect bigger changes of resistance per a degree celsius. So when it detect that change, it is already much hotter than it thinks. So the reached temperature is wrong - too high, but that high temp is what you need it to work."
20 amp 18650s as the Mi peak to 13 and you need a factor of safety such that peak iss well below rated current. Batteries are cheap... and faces are expensive... dont blow off your face!
I understand the frustration with shipping but once the package is in the mail and tracking is provided there is not much more RBT can do. Unfortunately situations like this are common and is why RBT only ships to the US and Canada. Between the shipping and customs cost along with needing to replace lost units (in this case well under market value) makes international orders a impossible.
If you have any business with RBT please email Ryan@rastabuddhatao.com venting your frustrations here only appears to be cyber bullying which proves counterproductive to a win win solution... and there appears to be an unenforced rule against it as well?
On a bright note the #RBThistory contest giveaway Mi3 goes to @sacred buddha ... congrats!!!
I understand the frustration with shipping but once the package is in the mail and tracking is provided there is not much more RBT can do. Unfortunately situations like this are common and is why RBT only ships to the US and Canada. Between the shipping and customs cost along with needing to replace lost units (in this case well under market value) makes international orders a impossible.
If you have any business with RBT please email Ryan@rastabuddhatao.com venting your frustrations here only appears to be cyber bullying which proves counterproductive to a win win solution... and there appears to be an unenforced rule against it as well?
On a bright note the #RBThistory contest giveaway Mi3 goes to @sacred buddha ... congrats!!!
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Stonedbadger
Well-Known Member
I still really like my Mi3, you have to be careful with the button at first but you can get some huge hits.
Makes me crave an Mi2 big time! Does anyone know if they are available anywhere???
Makes me crave an Mi2 big time! Does anyone know if they are available anywhere???
Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
The Mi2 would be my first choice too...
