RBT Milaana 1, 2, 3

vapviking

Old and In the Way
I thought a second screw was going to be packaged with Mi3 but was surprised there was only the installed screw in my #063.
Could this explain some of my difficulty getting accustomed to this vape? I've only had a V1 before this and was doing alright with that, using wattage mode.
 
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Terpenetime

Well-Known Member
I thought a second screw was going to be packaged with Mi3 but was surprised there was only the installed screw in my #063

That was certainly the plan that was announced in RBT’s email of the 31st December...

“After some research it was learned that the addition of the ceramic heater base brought some resistance to the system thereby reducing the heaters max temperature. After some prototyping of possible solutions a unique and valuable fix is underway. The long stainless steel screw in the Mi3 will be interchangeable with a new brass screw. This will provide a high temp / low temp option. Simply remove the bottom plate and replace the screw.”

Could this explain some of my difficulty getting accustomed to this vape?

It may well do if your Mi3 is running cold.
 

Resinrider

Well-Known Member
Mine came with the brass screw installed and a second (stainless?) screw in the box, but i don't know which one is high temp vs low temp?? I'm assuming the pre-installed brass screw is the low temp option because I can hold the button down for as long as I want and have not combusted. Please correct me if I'm wrong
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
Mine came with the brass screw installed and a second (stainless?) screw in the box, but i don't know which one is high temp vs low temp?? I'm assuming the pre-installed brass screw is the low temp option because I can hold the button down for as long as I want and have not combusted. Please correct me if I'm wrong
The brass screw is the hot screw if I understand correctly. Your Mi3 is still working right, no button failure?
 
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Resinrider

Well-Known Member
Ya its working fine. I have new HG2;s , so maybe they will produce more power once I run them through a few cycles. I was expecting to hold button for only a few seconds at a time to prevent combustion, but I find I am holding the button for at least 10 or more seconds for the first hit, then once heat builds up, I am feathering as required.
I think I will hold button to heat up the heater for maybe 10 seconds before i start my first draw and see how that works out
 

tb42091

Well-Known Member
My Mi3 also came with the brass screw installed and the silver one in the box. I havent combusted yet, but I have been on the conservative side and my AVB comes out coffee brown. I do think it has the capability to combust though.

Those times sound similar to my experience, though I dont have an HG2 but I find on a fresh, fully charged VTC6 it takes 6-8 seconds to preheat, then while I inhale it takes another 4-6 seconds to really get going, then I let go for 1 second and hold the button for another 2-4 seconds depending. I was actually expecting it to be more prone to combusting than it has been for me. But I pack the bowl up in the stem and cap it with one of the given screens so that helps I think.

Once the heater heats up fully it takes much less time though, I think that takes half a bowl for me or so
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Ya its working fine. I have new HG2;s , so maybe they will produce more power once I run them through a few cycles. I was expecting to hold button for only a few seconds at a time to prevent combustion, but I find I am holding the button for at least 10 or more seconds for the first hit, then once heat builds up, I am feathering as required.
I think I will hold button to heat up the heater for maybe 10 seconds before i start my first draw and see how that works out
My Milaana 3 is great at rapid extraction with a charged HG2. I try to not fill the basket all the way and only tamp enough to keep the load in place. My Milaana 2 is less aggressive and has me spoiled to just holding the button the length of the hit (with a bit of preheat and getting off the button before I'm done). That technique with the Milaana 3 will leave me with a center hotspot right from the first hit if I'm not careful.

My habit is to either practice getting on and off the button to rev the heater and improve my feel or to keep the Milaana 3 in a cleanup hitter role where I just use it to fully cache a stem from my Milaana 2 or a Splinter Z in TC mode.
 

Resinrider

Well-Known Member
I just tested my new plan of doing a pre heat cycle, and I learned a couple things...... The first thing is this thing just kicked my a$$.!! I also discover that I count faster than normal when I'm medicated. In reality I think Im holding button on for 3sec and off for 2sec once the heater has reached temp. I just needed to wait a bit for it to heat up before I start my draw. Having fun getting to know this beast!

My Mi3 also came with the brass screw installed and the silver one in the box. I havent combusted yet, but I have been on the conservative side and my AVB comes out coffee brown. I do think it has the capability to combust though.

Those times sound similar to my experience, though I dont have an HG2 but I find on a fresh, fully charged VTC6 it takes 6-8 seconds to preheat, then while I inhale it takes another 4-6 seconds to really get going, then I let go for 1 second and hold the button for another 2-4 seconds depending. I was actually expecting it to be more prone to combusting than it has been for me. But I pack the bowl up in the stem and cap it with one of the given screens so that helps I think.

Once the heater heats up fully it takes much less time though, I think that takes half a bowl for me or so
I was also initially planning to shove a small screen up into the mouthpiece so I could load the stem and cap off with the basket screen like you, but it wasnt working out for me, so I abandoned that plan until I get used to this thing , then I'll start experimenting.
 

RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Hey folks... did the inspection of the Mi3 today with the brass screw and all where in spec. The units have been sorted to low and high and the option will soon be available. A high unit will start hotter allowing rapid extraction and longer battery life but will be easier to combust (raped ape). A low unit will be easier to control but will have a shorter battery life (easy rider). Given that this screw needs to be thread locked in place to prevent it from loosening (loss of power) all future units will come with only the installed screw.

If you feel you have the skills and need to change to the stainless screw to cool down your existing Mi3 shoot me an email at ryan@rastabuddhatao.com and one can be sent out to you. I'll do a YT vid soon to go over the details... just a quick summary here.
Click the blue button below for the NFC discount code... Win a Mi3 in the contest thread...
 
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vapviking

Old and In the Way
Hey folks... did the inspection of the Mi3 today with the brass screw and all where in spec. The units have been sorted to low and high and the option will soon be available. A high unit will start hotter allowing rapid extraction and longer battery life but will be easier to combust (raped ape). A low unit will be easier to control but will have a shorter battery life (easy rider). Given that this screw needs to be thread locked in place to prevent it from loosening (loss of power) all future units will come with only the installed screw.

If you feel you have the skills and need to change to the stainless screw to cool down your existing Mi3 shoot me an email at ryan@rastabuddhatao.com and one can be sent out to you. I'll do a YT vid soon to go over the details... just a quick summary here.
Click the blue button below for the NFC discount code... Win a Mi3 in the contest thread...
Your first paragraph is confusing to me. "Did inspection of Mi3 today?" (huh?) I've had one for months now (#063), with only the SS screw (it's the one showing on the bottom plate, right?) and have been unsure whether I'm not learning or it's not behaving properly. I'm in the throes of a love-hate relationship. Good days and bad days kinda thing.
For a time were all going to get a second screw, that was the reason for a brief delay, and it was to add an option for high or low resistance screw. I don't mind at all if this is not the way it's gone down, but I don't understand the "work-in-progress" aspect of this vape. It is version 3, most all the bugs were worked out, this was my impression.

I had thought the higher resistance, original design ss screw is the one that leads to lower temps, shorter battery life; this seemed to be the glitch during the final stages of manufacture. But now it would be called "low" for 'low temp', is that right? But this doesn't sound like what you are describing.
"With the brass screw all were in spec.?" But now the spec sorts the Mi3 into batches of low or high? According to the screw installed?

Are you saying I already have a "low" or "high" unit but it just was never so-designated, whereas all future Mi3's will be sold as either a low or a high unit? Depending on how they've been "sorted" and which screw you have selected for that unit?

It could be that I'm not as educated as the group and rbt; though I do alright with a Splinter v1, I was expecting a major step up with a Milaana. But ALL of my education comes from FC, I don't do any other social media platform. I could be missing all the right details by not following instagram or some such thing. That's a loss I'll easily get over; maybe this ride is just not for me?
 
vapviking,

androponic

vaped.
Your first paragraph is confusing to me. "Did inspection of Mi3 today?" (huh?) I've had one for months now (#063), with only the SS screw (it's the one showing on the bottom plate, right?) and have been unsure whether I'm not learning or it's not behaving properly. I'm in the throes of a love-hate relationship. Good days and bad days kinda thing.
For a time were all going to get a second screw, that was the reason for a brief delay, and it was to add an option for high or low resistance screw. I don't mind at all if this is not the way it's gone down, but I don't understand the "work-in-progress" aspect of this vape. It is version 3, most all the bugs were worked out, this was my impression.

I had thought the higher resistance, original design ss screw is the one that leads to lower temps, shorter battery life; this seemed to be the glitch during the final stages of manufacture. But now it would be called "low" for 'low temp', is that right? But this doesn't sound like what you are describing.
"With the brass screw all were in spec.?" But now the spec sorts the Mi3 into batches of low or high? According to the screw installed?

Are you saying I already have a "low" or "high" unit but it just was never so-designated, whereas all future Mi3's will be sold as either a low or a high unit? Depending on how they've been "sorted" and which screw you have selected for that unit?

It could be that I'm not as educated as the group and rbt; though I do alright with a Splinter v1, I was expecting a major step up with a Milaana. But ALL of my education comes from FC, I don't do any other social media platform. I could be missing all the right details by not following instagram or some such thing. That's a loss I'll easily get over; maybe this ride is just not for me?
no, the ss screw you see in the bottom plate is just to hold the bottom plate on. you need to look at the threads on the top that hold the battery contact down and that should be brass (high temp long batt life) screw. mine are both early run units and i have the brass screw which in my opinion is the better one to have anyway.
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
no, the ss screw you see in the bottom plate is just to hold the bottom plate on. you need to look at the threads on the top that hold the battery contact down and that should be brass (high temp long batt life) screw. mine are both early run units and i have the brass screw which in my opinion is the better one to have anyway.
Thanks, that part is cleared up (for me). Mine also has the brass screw.
 

RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@vapviking the delay was to determine why the Mi3 was not producing enough heat and had a reduced battery life. It was determined that the addition of the ceramic heater base added resistance. To reduce the resistance of the system a custom brass screw was fabricated which caused the delay.

It was said that testing would be done to determine if the SS screw could be used as an option. The test showed that all units with the brass screw are in tolerance and the use of the SS screw in most cases will drop the unit out of range on the low side and have poor battery life. To prevent another failure mode the screw needs to be secured eliminating the possibility of a customer removal.

As a final resolution Mi3 will now be sold with a high and low temperature option. Again, as stated above, if you have a first batch unit and feel it is too hot you can request a SS screw.

Hopefully this clears up the misconceptions bred on that now defunk forum :)

15% OFF thru Sunday night midnight
 

vapviking

Old and In the Way
@vapviking the delay was to determine why the Mi3 was not producing enough heat and had a reduced battery life. It was determined that the addition of the ceramic heater base added resistance. To reduce the resistance of the system a custom brass screw was fabricated which caused the delay.

It was said that testing would be done to determine if the SS screw could be used as an option. The test showed that all units with the brass screw are in tolerance and the use of the SS screw in most cases will drop the unit out of range on the low side and have poor battery life. To prevent another failure mode the screw needs to be secured eliminating the possibility of a customer removal.

As a final resolution Mi3 will now be sold with a high and low temperature option. Again, as stated above, if you have a first batch unit and feel it is too hot you can request a SS screw.

Hopefully this clears up the misconceptions bred on that now defunk forum :)

15% OFF thru Sunday night midnight
Thanks, this clarifies a lot for me!
My misunderstandings (imo) generally come from following the posts you've made along the way. Granted, I only see through the FC lense, and so maybe not enough; maybe instagram is the better place to keep up with you, I'm just not going there.

The defunct forum has been an great resource, of which many of us are very fortunate to have been some small part. ;)

Again imo, your 'store' (website) is under-utilized by you as a line of communication. My preference would be for one dedicated place for you to educate your customers about the product. Somehow, I don't think that's where this is going...

I'm sorry if this is coming off as a bit edge-y. I know you're a one man show, and I think you've done some remarkable things. I'm also real happy to have your presence here. :wave:
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
You know what the hardest part of trying to do battery tests on a Milaana 3 is? How fucking stoned I am by the end of it :leaf::zzz:.

I was using mine yesterday through a china piece similiar to this one
grav-12-upline-bong-5126610452582_1400x.jpg

and wow was it effective! I have a couple standard 19mm male/19mm male connectors that I bought and ground down with my Dremel a couple weeks ago so I could finally experience my RBT stuff through some glass. The ones at RBT I never seem to be able to jump on in time but these work ok. My only issue is that I have to make the screens wider by pushing down on them or they'll fall out. I haven't tried packing the stems yet but that would probably work too. I need to pick up some screens but I'm not sure if 3/4" or 1" would be better.

Does anyone else measure their cells and know roughly what voltage they recharge at? I'm not going below 3.7V which seems very conservative and I get at least a good 6 bowls per charge roughly. I may have forgotten to write some down so I need to check at least a couple more times :rofl: over the weekend.
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
7 baskets on my Molicel 26A and I'm still at 3.755V. I do about a 5 second pre-heat then start my draw and it takes another 2 seconds for vapour roughly. That's keeping my device (not batteries) in a cooler ambient temperature. When it was warmer a couple days ago my preheat seemed shorter.

Woohoo! Just ordered a Milaana 3! I've been yearning for a good portable, my ArGo and Fury are decent with flavor but I want on demand hits when I'm lounging in my hammock
I haven't used a Fury but the Milaana will knock the socks off an Arizer portable. You're in for a treat.
 

bossman

Gentleman Of Leisure
Woohoo! Just ordered a Milaana 3! I've been yearning for a good portable, my ArGo and Fury are decent with flavor but I want on demand hits when I'm lounging in my hammock

Yeah no session vape can hit like a Milaana 3. Did you get cooling stems with it? Consider a Splinter Z at some point too.
 

despeRAWdo

Fan of Hot Air Makers.
Finally tested out my new Macacauba Nub Cooling Stem from KGWoodCrafts. It’s filled with 45 3mm glass beads. This tiny stem is a great addition. I feel a lot better about carrying my Milaana in my pocket when out for walks. Don’t have to worry about a glass stem.
You posted this on Reddit, and started my lust for the milaana. Just impulse bought one this morning. Super excited to get my hands on it. Love me some wood vapes.
 

Resinrider

Well-Known Member
Checked out the KGWoodCrafts website and did not see this stem on there. Looks like a custom? Would be interesting to see some wood stems with the option of having a notch to hold a screen inside the mouthpiece so we can load the stem and cap off with a basket screen if desired.
I am interested in a wood stem because I keep pulling the mouthpiece out of the unit by accident when it sticks to my lips.. So far I've managed to catch the stem before it hits the floor , but I expect some glass stem casualties soon
 
Resinrider,

glenCOCO

Well-Known Member
Just send her message and let her know what you're looking to do in terms of design and color then just brainstorm designs with her from there
 

RastaBuddhaTao

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Hey folks ... thanks for all the support during the NFC sale!

Those that ordered Mi3 should have received the email body below. The www now has a drop down to select a high or low output unit. Still need to update the pics as they still the Beta unit. This is simply drawing a line in the sand to separate in-spec units to a high and low category. This means that both a high and a low unit could be nearly identical if they where "on the line". This change is subtle and might not even be detectable to some.



RBT has just finished the full visual and electrical inspection of the latest batch of Mi3. The Milaana is an unregulated device which means that the resistance of the heater determines the amount of heat that a unit will output. There is a natural variation of the resistance of the heater as well as the other resistance contributing components. With Mi3 we have classified units as either low or high output. A high output unit has more heat and will provide rapid extraction and is good for heavy hitting through water. The high output unit is like a Corvette in that you need to be attentive and modulate the button more to get lower temperatures. The low output unit provides a more controllable temperature with a fresh battery but will not get as much battery life as a high temp unit. The low output unit is like a Maibu... good for terp chasing. The Low output unit basically acts like a high output unit with the battery slightly drained (temperature drops as the battery is drained).

This change is subtle and not very noticeable but since we tested every unit we thought we would make the designation so that customers could select this nuance to better pair them with a Mi3 that is more suited for they vaping style.

Sorry for the short delay this may cause shipping this week but we wanted to take a few minutes to reachout to you in attempts to make your Mi3 experience the best it can be.
 
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