iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge
- Thread starter Alan
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- 510 convection on demand portable
boon
Well-Known Member
Hi guys!
My iH is arrived on thursday
My mod is a Smoant charon-tc-218 in copper. that's the first time i'm using a mod
In Tcr don't be stupid like me and hold the fire button without setting= instant glow
I've no results in SS TC even at 300°c but in tcr its seems to work
Now my current tcr is on 0.00210. at this setting i need to stirr my load to have even abv (it's the only downside)
here my firsrt bowl
https://imgur.com/a/toKBH
tree days later i'm happy with this vap. it's easy to use but i'm not able to reproduce an heavy (one or two to kill the bowl) hit like with my HGL I need more testing with al my stem and tcr settings
let you now after more testing
My iH is arrived on thursday
My mod is a Smoant charon-tc-218 in copper. that's the first time i'm using a mod
In Tcr don't be stupid like me and hold the fire button without setting= instant glow
I've no results in SS TC even at 300°c but in tcr its seems to work
Now my current tcr is on 0.00210. at this setting i need to stirr my load to have even abv (it's the only downside)
here my firsrt bowl
https://imgur.com/a/toKBH
tree days later i'm happy with this vap. it's easy to use but i'm not able to reproduce an heavy (one or two to kill the bowl) hit like with my HGL I need more testing with al my stem and tcr settings
let you now after more testing
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Glass between the heater and wood will only prevent conductive heat transfer, it will not stop radiant heat transfer. Since the spiral coil is free standing, it does not require glass to prevent it from contacting the wood as in the other models you mentioned. The less time that the heater is energized, the less radiant heat energy will be transferred and the wood will stay cooler. The longer the heater is energized with no air flow to remove the heat, the hotter it will glow. The more the heater glows, the more radiant energy will be transferred to the wood. The concept of the spiral coil is completely opposite of what we are taught about how convection vaporizers are supposed to work. The less mass and conductive heat transferred away from the coil the better. As much energy as possible should be available for heating the air, so that you use only as much energy an you need to heat the flower. Waste heat equals a shorter battery usage time. More efficient battery usage equals more bowls roasted.
The great thing about using the spiral coil with a mod box is that you can set the power level to where you don’t have to worry about temperature fluctuations. I never need to feather the trigger with a mod box. It is all about power level and draw speed. Obviously, the roasting tube must also be appropriately packed and the screen clean to get consistent results.
You may be getting the bamboo too hot by trying to operate the iHeat in the same manner as you are the other models you mentioned. There should never need to be more than 2 seconds of pre-heat time before you start drawing air. If you need the air to be a little hotter, increase the wattage before increasing the pre-heat time. Don’t leave the stem in the iHeat between hits as vapor remaining in the tube can drop down into the coil area and make it smell bad. I always draw the excess heat out of the iHeat after each hit by putting my lips to it and inhaling. The large surface area of the heater will quickly release any excess heat and the wood will stay cool. There will never be any charring or sweating of the wood under normal usage.
Sometimes you just have to break from conventional thinking. That is what I did when creating Heat Island Technology. All log vaporizers at the time were designed around the idea that you needed to have a large thermal mass to regulate the temperature and provide a proper hit. The only problem was that the large thermal mass / core cause charring of the wood and caused the wood to crack, not to mention the long heat up time. I eliminated the large mass and went with a plain ss tube to hold the heater w/ air inlet holes to create a thermal conductivity restriction point. It slashed the heat up time and increased the air temperature making it much more efficient. The conventional way of thinking changed. Log vaporizers today are no longer designed to have a large thermal mass, and consequently all have fast heat up times, plenty of hot air, and very efficient.
Wooden roasting tubes are definitely not for some people who like to have their tubes totally clean between uses. After a few uses, a glass tube will taste just like a used wooden tube. The glass tube does have the advantage that it can be cleaned after an accidental combustion event. The wood tube will just take a while before it only has the regular vapor flavor again. I have found that it is more about how you load the roasting that determines whether you will get a hot spot / tunneling. I load just enough to fill the basket screen using a straw method and then lightly pack it down until it is the shape of a hockey puck. This will allow the air to uniformly pass through the puck. Placing a second basket screen on top also helps to distribute the heat since the second screen gets hot with the incoming air and it spreads out the heat to all parts of the puck. I very rarely need to stir when it is packed properly with the correct amount of material. The smaller the basket screen size, the easier it is to get an even roast without stirring.
Here is my latest roasting tube style.
It has a 12mm hole in the tapered part of the wood and a 13mm hole in the straight part of the tube. It allows for roasting with a 12mm screen in a wooden bowl with a glass vapor path. Keeps the wood clean from reclaim and allows you to completely clean the glass. My 14mm GonG tube are 13mm in diameter and will also work in the tube.
@boon - Glad to hear it arrived safely and you are happy with it. Hope more testing will have you liking it even more. Have you tried a simple power mode with the wattage set at around 30? 38 watts is about the upper limit that I use. Anything over 40 can risk combustion unless you are drawing very hard. The open air flow allows you to draw as hard / fast as you like.
IME the other heater tech discussed has heater mesh right up against the glass and mica, which both end up conducting heat, which is simply wasted. While the iHeats coil is isolated, only really heating up the air passing over it. There's still residual heat in the coil, so you can still "ride the wave" after releasing the button, but less so than the other heater tech. In my opinion this is a good thing, since more of the heat/energy you use is heating up your herb instead of the unit itself.
P.A.M.
Vapo Rising
Lol .. bamBoo 
.. @KeroZen , can I swape my turn on the list with you in exchange for your bamboo iHeat? Lol is it foul play to trade your place in line 
I joke but not , I do have a bamboo HI log, I would fancy a bamboo iHeat cartridge to go along with it !
From my experience with my HI , it is warm to the touch if left at higher voltage then normal for a long period of time. I don't have any wood logs but i am experienced with wood enough to know a
Wood log would be less warm to the touch or a "different kind of warm " almost best describes it , then the bamboo is..
Owning a bamboo vape myself, I sense from your experiences described with your iHeat 510 , that it is not necessarily your technique nor the heater that is behind the shell running hot but perhaps just the bamboo running a little hotter then most other wood do in general..
You would probably get more satisfactory results with a different wood species while using the same heater.
perhaps you would have the same results with the other coil in a bamboo shell as well.
we all have different opinions and taste when it comes down to the design of vaporizers, what's great is how we are fortunate and blessed to have all these mad vapocraftmens satisfying our lungs .
.. @KeroZen , can I swape my turn on the list with you in exchange for your bamboo iHeat? Lol is it foul play to trade your place in line I joke but not , I do have a bamboo HI log, I would fancy a bamboo iHeat cartridge to go along with it !
From my experience with my HI , it is warm to the touch if left at higher voltage then normal for a long period of time. I don't have any wood logs but i am experienced with wood enough to know a
Wood log would be less warm to the touch or a "different kind of warm " almost best describes it , then the bamboo is..
Owning a bamboo vape myself, I sense from your experiences described with your iHeat 510 , that it is not necessarily your technique nor the heater that is behind the shell running hot but perhaps just the bamboo running a little hotter then most other wood do in general..
You would probably get more satisfactory results with a different wood species while using the same heater.
perhaps you would have the same results with the other coil in a bamboo shell as well.
we all have different opinions and taste when it comes down to the design of vaporizers, what's great is how we are fortunate and blessed to have all these mad vapocraftmens satisfying our lungs .
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
I love the design and the form facyor, but unfortunately I cannot stop combusting with the iheat in desktop mode. The dial on the bottom does not seem to be helping at all with the regulation and on pretty much any setting I combust incredibly easy and have not yet been able to have a session free of combustion. I own several milaanas as well as formerly owned a MVT. While the technique required is different here I think I'm generally a quick learner with these devices.
Not really sure what else to do with this. It's kind of a shame i can't seem to get the results t hg at others in both threads are achieving. As I've moved to Texas i had planned to make this my primary driver due to the flexibility for use as a desktop or a portable.
Not really sure what else to do with this. It's kind of a shame i can't seem to get the results t hg at others in both threads are achieving. As I've moved to Texas i had planned to make this my primary driver due to the flexibility for use as a desktop or a portable.
I was going to suggest that it is a technique issue but if you have a Milaana, it is the same idea... you aren't holding down on the button the entire time. I am a Mi veteran and gets hot much faster than the Mi but not so much where I couldn't control it. Also, the difference when changing the dial on the bottom was definitely noticeable. It sounds like there could be an issue with your unit. The one thing that I would suggest is unscrewing the top, cleaning off the threads, and trying again. I've had some issues with my mod box that has been fixed by a quick cleaning of the threads. I haven't had the same issues with the plug in base but it's worth a try.
Good luck.
As a user of hand held portable vapes for quite a few years now, my introduction to the coil heat design arrived only a few months ago, and I was immediately sold on performance. Fascinated, when all the science @Alan was telling me about actually panned out exactly how he explained it.
Using a Witcher box with my very first iHeat was a pleasure. Suddenly, I was forgetting about how many batteries I had charged. I'm a pretty heavy user, so I was used to burning through batteries. Now I rarely use more than two in a day. I charge 4 batteries every few days. I don't use my second charger any longer. Nice plus.
But beside just longer battery life, the iHeat / Witcher combo stayed pretty cool to the touch. Alan had explained all about the radiant heat going right through glass, providing no protection, and only distance acted as insulation. But the real cooling came from the open draw, and pulling all the heat into the tube. And what an open draw it has. The whoosh of warm, thick vapor was quite impressive, and very repeatable, as long as I kept my stem / screen nice and clean, bam. I usually set the Witcher for somewhere between 35 and 40 and just control it with my draw speed. Feathering isn't really necessary with a Witcher box.
The evenly colored ABV (no hot spots) was clear proof of what was going on inside. Nice, quick, even heat. Goes on when I hit the button, off when I release it. No heat syncing into the unit, having to let it cool down between stems. Really never gets hot enough for me to need to cool it. All the heat is in the flower. The coil heater is a remarkable design.
iHeat, for me, was a game changer, and I'll never be without one.
Using a Witcher box with my very first iHeat was a pleasure. Suddenly, I was forgetting about how many batteries I had charged. I'm a pretty heavy user, so I was used to burning through batteries. Now I rarely use more than two in a day. I charge 4 batteries every few days. I don't use my second charger any longer. Nice plus.
But beside just longer battery life, the iHeat / Witcher combo stayed pretty cool to the touch. Alan had explained all about the radiant heat going right through glass, providing no protection, and only distance acted as insulation. But the real cooling came from the open draw, and pulling all the heat into the tube. And what an open draw it has. The whoosh of warm, thick vapor was quite impressive, and very repeatable, as long as I kept my stem / screen nice and clean, bam. I usually set the Witcher for somewhere between 35 and 40 and just control it with my draw speed. Feathering isn't really necessary with a Witcher box.
The evenly colored ABV (no hot spots) was clear proof of what was going on inside. Nice, quick, even heat. Goes on when I hit the button, off when I release it. No heat syncing into the unit, having to let it cool down between stems. Really never gets hot enough for me to need to cool it. All the heat is in the flower. The coil heater is a remarkable design.
iHeat, for me, was a game changer, and I'll never be without one.
almost there
Well-Known Member
Was it that bad? It looks so good together
P.A.M.
Vapo Rising
"It's all about the he-says she-says bullshit " break stuff - Limp Bizkit
So after seeing @AJS having success with it I picked up the RX 2/3 for my iHeat.
I'm really surprised at the build quality. Very well made, feels incredibly sturdy. Reminds me of the airizer air.
It works really well with the iHeat in wattage mode, but I can't get TC mode to work. It just says temp protection. I'm assuming there's some setting I haven't figured out yet
I'm really surprised at the build quality. Very well made, feels incredibly sturdy. Reminds me of the airizer air.
It works really well with the iHeat in wattage mode, but I can't get TC mode to work. It just says temp protection. I'm assuming there's some setting I haven't figured out yet
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Wattage mode is really the only way I use it. Let me correct my earlier wattage report. I usually vape between 32 and 40. Out and about, especially in the cold, the higher wattage seems to compensate for the ice cold unit.
It is a pure pleasure to use. Ensuring a clean screen / stem, tamping to a nice even hockey puck, allows me to pull the heat from the coil into the herb, with minimal radiation to the body of the unit. No preheat. Press. Draw. Release. Draw a little more.
It is a pure pleasure to use. Ensuring a clean screen / stem, tamping to a nice even hockey puck, allows me to pull the heat from the coil into the herb, with minimal radiation to the body of the unit. No preheat. Press. Draw. Release. Draw a little more.
Andreaerdna
If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
iHeat = Beast
Roasting Tubes = Beast
Everything that pours out of Alan's shop is a game changer...
Nah man it's just straight up not heating when it does this. Right now I just set it to TC SS, set the temp to 450 F. It says power is 37.6 w. I press button, and it INSTANTLY says temp protection, and the power fluctuates between 0 and 5 watts for ten seconds until the 10-second time limit hits and it stops itself. Something isn't right. Same thing happens in TCR mode, which I definitely don't understand the settings for.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Did you install any custom firmware yet? Would help to see both the set and live resistance values.
On AF, my iHeat is detected at around 0.36ohm when it starts, with the live resistance value anywhere between 0.34 and 0.38, depending on the mood of the 510 port (yeah the thing has a life of its own)
Power is set to 28W, set temperature at 140°C. Coil material TFR316L. PI regulator enabled (900, 80, probably not optimal but good enough for my draw speed) No pre-heat.
The times I had the exact behaviour you describe was when my brand new evic Primo mini went haywire (and never recovered unfortunately) After investigation it was a problem with the 510 and/or the iHeat 510 port.
Is your iHeat wobbly on the 510 threads when it's not fully screwed? Mine is, on all my mods. As if the screw flanges (don't know if that's the correct term) are not wide enough. On my evic VTC mini it's not really a problem: if I screw it fully I got the correct resistance (or around it, as said above, but I can compensate by changing the set temperature)
On the Primo mini, when it went bad, with the iHeat fully screwed the resistance jumped to above 0.4! With that high of a value, the mod believed that the coil was above 200°C when cold!!! And indeed when I pressed the trigger, it entered protection immediately as it was already above the set point. To make it work I had to unscrew the 510 slightly, resistance dropped to a more realistic value (btw I triple checked with high quality ohm-meters and I know that mine is 0.363ohm, so when the mod displays something else I know for sure it's off)
The problem is that with the wobbly 510, it became unusable partly unscrewed: there was some lateral play on the threads, and just drawing on the iHeat made it move ever slightly, and this in turn altered the live resistance while I was using it, making it completely unpredictable.
With the VTC mini, a variation of 0.36 going to 0.38 can mean a computed temperature variation of over 40°C! And if it goes the other direction towards 0.34 it's the same. In one case the vape is anemic until I bump 40°C up. In the other case the vape is too hot and can char in one hit, until I lower 40°C. You see this is pretty wild and why I say TC is super finicky on my Joeyetech devices. Everytime I start I need to double check that it's not tripping with the resistance value.
These days I found a position on the 510 that is relatively stable. I don't touch it at all and it only varies between 0.35 and 0.37. When it happens I nudge it gently and if I'm lucky it gets back closer to 0.36. But it's never precise.
I don't have these problems with the SmoAnt Knight v2, but it doesn't fit the iHeat being a SBS design. So I'm not able to determine yet if it's a problem with the 510 port on the Joyetech devices (the trifecta with Wismec and Eleaf are all 3 known for having crappy 510's) or if it's a problem with the 510 threads on the iHeat itself, in which case it would be wise to try to source a better base / deck.
On AF, my iHeat is detected at around 0.36ohm when it starts, with the live resistance value anywhere between 0.34 and 0.38, depending on the mood of the 510 port (yeah the thing has a life of its own)
Power is set to 28W, set temperature at 140°C. Coil material TFR316L. PI regulator enabled (900, 80, probably not optimal but good enough for my draw speed) No pre-heat.
The times I had the exact behaviour you describe was when my brand new evic Primo mini went haywire (and never recovered unfortunately) After investigation it was a problem with the 510 and/or the iHeat 510 port.
Is your iHeat wobbly on the 510 threads when it's not fully screwed? Mine is, on all my mods. As if the screw flanges (don't know if that's the correct term) are not wide enough. On my evic VTC mini it's not really a problem: if I screw it fully I got the correct resistance (or around it, as said above, but I can compensate by changing the set temperature)
On the Primo mini, when it went bad, with the iHeat fully screwed the resistance jumped to above 0.4! With that high of a value, the mod believed that the coil was above 200°C when cold!!! And indeed when I pressed the trigger, it entered protection immediately as it was already above the set point. To make it work I had to unscrew the 510 slightly, resistance dropped to a more realistic value (btw I triple checked with high quality ohm-meters and I know that mine is 0.363ohm, so when the mod displays something else I know for sure it's off)
The problem is that with the wobbly 510, it became unusable partly unscrewed: there was some lateral play on the threads, and just drawing on the iHeat made it move ever slightly, and this in turn altered the live resistance while I was using it, making it completely unpredictable.
With the VTC mini, a variation of 0.36 going to 0.38 can mean a computed temperature variation of over 40°C! And if it goes the other direction towards 0.34 it's the same. In one case the vape is anemic until I bump 40°C up. In the other case the vape is too hot and can char in one hit, until I lower 40°C. You see this is pretty wild and why I say TC is super finicky on my Joeyetech devices. Everytime I start I need to double check that it's not tripping with the resistance value.
These days I found a position on the 510 that is relatively stable. I don't touch it at all and it only varies between 0.35 and 0.37. When it happens I nudge it gently and if I'm lucky it gets back closer to 0.36. But it's never precise.
I don't have these problems with the SmoAnt Knight v2, but it doesn't fit the iHeat being a SBS design. So I'm not able to determine yet if it's a problem with the 510 port on the Joyetech devices (the trifecta with Wismec and Eleaf are all 3 known for having crappy 510's) or if it's a problem with the 510 threads on the iHeat itself, in which case it would be wise to try to source a better base / deck.
@virtualpurple - Sorry to hear the issues your are having with your Insta Heat. Have you tried the cartridge on a mod box yet to see if you are getting similar results? Happy to take a look at it to see what the issue might be if you aren't able to get it working properly.
@Bravesst - Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear you are enjoying the spiral coil design. You are doing a great job of incorporating it into your own portable units. Others will soon be able to enjoy it too.
@ZC - Wish I knew enough about all the different mod box settings to get the temperature control to work for you. May be some simple setting that just needs to be changed. Hope you are able to figure it out.
@hoyo77 - Thanks for posting the photos. Looks great on your mod box. Hope you have been enjoying it.
@KeroZen - I do find the best performance when the 510 deck is lightly tightened. The 510 decks that I am using come with a hollow center pin. I now replace them with a solid ss center pin for better conductivity. They look better too as it uses a hex drive rather than a slot for a screwdriver.
@Bravesst - Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear you are enjoying the spiral coil design. You are doing a great job of incorporating it into your own portable units. Others will soon be able to enjoy it too.
@ZC - Wish I knew enough about all the different mod box settings to get the temperature control to work for you. May be some simple setting that just needs to be changed. Hope you are able to figure it out.
@hoyo77 - Thanks for posting the photos. Looks great on your mod box. Hope you have been enjoying it.
@KeroZen - I do find the best performance when the 510 deck is lightly tightened. The 510 decks that I am using come with a hollow center pin. I now replace them with a solid ss center pin for better conductivity. They look better too as it uses a hex drive rather than a slot for a screwdriver.
virtualpurple
Well-Known Member
@Alan I have only tried using it on a mod box once that I recall, however I don't know that I had the settings correct on my mod box, my mod was flashed with @funkyjunky's firmware. I will be having it shipped to me in texas and I will take you up on your generous offer, thank you. I sense it may also be time to order some new slide-a-bowls!
I'm also planning to purchase a mod box that has true temperature control, I believe a thread here contains links to a few reasonably priced units.
VP
I'm also planning to purchase a mod box that has true temperature control, I believe a thread here contains links to a few reasonably priced units.
VP
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hoyo77
Well-Known Member
So today i decided to try some moonrock/caviar in this bad boy. This thing really shines on caviar....it turns it into the gift that keeps on giving. Started out at about 29w took a few rips...little vapor but nice flavor very intense..jacked it up in 2w intervals till i got to 40w. @Alan can this handle a dab??
I have found the best way to use oil is to mix it with the flower. Hemp fiber also works too, but I like the flavor better mixing it with flower. The larger the surface area, the bigger the clouds.