iHeat 510 Heater Cartridge

hoyo77

Well-Known Member
Just got the email that my iHeat is ready...yasssssssss. Picking it up monday after i land in Denver. Will post pics and reviews monday night. I have both a wattage only mod device and one that does temp. I am strictly a wattage guy and unless squid vapes comes out with a temp model i am sticking with that. But i do have 2 vaporesso mods that will do temps. I will pack one and test it monday night as well. Give me some temps to fool around with. @Alan feel free to post pics...i do not mind at all!!
 

Alan

Master JedHI
Manufacturer
Here is a photo of @hoyo77 's amboyna burl iHeat 510 cart w/ matching 2.5" lg WonG and 3" lg glass mouthpiece tube.

ihamboynaburl.jpg


Still had some of the wood he had sent to me for making his HI's. It was only about 1" thick, so there wasn't enough to make a HI. Just the right size for an iHeat 510 cart. The finished unit is about 25mm in diameter and 2.25" tall. It is setting on a ss ring so it will stand up for the photo. There was also enough extra wood to make a 14mm WonG tube and a 5" long 18mm WonG tube.


I am very excited about my new iHeat arriving soon. Will post pics for sure. Really love convenience of the Witcher box combination. Out and about, it looks very *eCig*, sorta like hiding in plain site.

My gold standard in a portable. Here's my current unit.
iupcLPb.jpg

Thanks for posting the photo @Bravesst. I seem to reach for my Witcher more than my Cuboid 150. It is a very nice size and so efficient. The battery will last a long time and roast many loads. Sometimes it is nice not to have a cord.
 

hoyo77

Well-Known Member
Here is a photo of @hoyo77 's amboyna burl iHeat 510 cart w/ matching 2.5" lg WonG and 3" lg glass mouthpiece tube.

ihamboynaburl.jpg


Still had some of the wood he had sent to me for making his HI's. It was only about 1" thick, so there wasn't enough to make a HI. Just the right size for an iHeat 510 cart. The finished unit is about 25mm in diameter and 2.25" tall. It is setting on a ss ring so it will stand up for the photo. There was also enough extra wood to make a 14mm WonG tube and a 5" long 18mm WonG tube.




Thanks for posting the photo @Bravesst. I seem to reach for my Witcher more than my Cuboid 150. It is a very nice size and so efficient. The battery will last a long time and roast many loads. Sometimes it is nice not to have a cord.
WOW!!!!! @Alan simply beautiful!!!
 

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Here is a photo of @hoyo77 's amboyna burl iHeat 510 cart w/ matching 2.5" lg WonG and 3" lg glass mouthpiece tube.

ihamboynaburl.jpg


Still had some of the wood he had sent to me for making his HI's. It was only about 1" thick, so there wasn't enough to make a HI. Just the right size for an iHeat 510 cart. The finished unit is about 25mm in diameter and 2.25" tall. It is setting on a ss ring so it will stand up for the photo. There was also enough extra wood to make a 14mm WonG tube and a 5" long 18mm WonG tube.




Thanks for posting the photo @Bravesst. I seem to reach for my Witcher more than my Cuboid 150. It is a very nice size and so efficient. The battery will last a long time and roast many loads. Sometimes it is nice not to have a cord.

Magnificent...
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Sorry for the back to back post but I want to share how much I like this vape under some conditions:
- water filtration (helps to handle the hot vapor)
- small amounts (avoids hot spots)
- more Watts for micro loads (28-32), less Watts for larger loads (20-28)
- stirring needed except for micro-doses

I think I agree with all points, excepted I don't do water filtration so I have no other choice but to bare with it. The vapor is hot indeed and it's due to 3 things: the 18mm format, the super short stock stem and the fact the stem is made of wood.

I much prefer 18mm in terms of air flow as it gives a very pleasant "free-flowing" sensation, but the downside is that you draw a lot of hot air and your throat (or worse, your teeth if you are not careful) will feel it. I don't have this issue with 14mm systems as the hot air beam is more focused, but I find them more draw restricted and I have to draw for longer, which I don't like. They also tend to clog easier with their smaller screens. Ah, trade-offs... always a matter of trade-offs in life...

For the hot spots, I find that they are easier to avoid in TC mode. In power mode the iHeat has the same bad tendency as the Milaana. Make a single timing error and you get a darker spot. Not charred for sure, but enough to spoil the taste. When taste is spoiled, your mind is tricked into believing the bowl is soon cashed where in fact it's not. That damn ABV taste is a trigger... Again, it's less of an issue with 14mm systems as the bowl surface is smaller.

Your remark about the Watts difference vs small and larger loads makes sense. The bigger the load the gentler you have to extract, otherwise you end up with something very uneven with a clear color gradient, the exposed surface of the bowl getting brown while the material touching the screen is still green.

Stirring in indeed necessary, even in TC mode. I stir at least once near the end, but with some strains I found myself having to stir twice per bowl. I never had to stir twice with my other on-demand convection vapes. I believe this is due to the wooden stem: there's no conduction to even things out like we have with glass ones.

And this is the two other reasons that I cited for the hot vapor: stem is not only shorter than the Milaana one, which is already at the limit of what I can support, but wood has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient. It might rob less heat from the system but it cools the vapor much less.


The I-Heat is sadly difficult to use dry for me, hot vapor, stirs and the separate stem don't make this vape a good candidate for vaping "on the go"... but it's a perfect micro log you can carry around. Although I still hope the blackwood mp I'm awaiting for will fix my dry hits issues!

Why do you expect the blackwood stem to improve things? Will it be longer than the stock one? Denser wood perhaps, so slightly higher thermal conductivity?


I remenber to like the dry hits while using the device in TC mode, I will try again but encountered some issues with this mode despite some success in the beginning.

Yes it's a pain to make it work right on the Joyetech devices, even with custom firmware. Drop me a MP if you want and we'll discuss it more in detail. But it's finicky and inconsistent to say the least...


ps: I want to confirm and say you "sorry sir" @KeroZen the wood shield might become very hot if you chain hits without any pause, although never tasted the wood at all and most of the time I take 1 and half or 2 hits per minute. I didn't noticed the hot shield cause, with my Evic, I haven't to touch the I-Heat shield while in use. Not a real issue imo.

Yes perhaps we are not supposed to chain hit like this, so this would be "user error" (but the fact we can do it is the proof the iHeat can deliver big and fast)

In my case, the bamboo shell has a pretty unpleasant smell. It's quite obvious as soon as it gets warm. When I stick my nose near the air intake holes I can smell it and I don't like it.

To me this is a downside of this vape: going glass-less is without a doubt more efficient energy-wise, it's also pretty nice in a portable as there's nothing to break, but this vape has a woody taste. Not a signature, it's really a part of the experience and the higher the temperature the more present it is.

I won't talk too much about my concerns around the presence of high levels of cyanide in most parts of the bamboo plant, they are most probably unfounded in this case, but this is still something that sticks to my mind and I wish it was not the case or that it was properly boiled, let's say just for my peace of mind. If I had the choice I would most definitely have gotten a blackwood version instead.


Guys, If anyone is still looking for a Box on which to attach an iheat I found a really inexpensive box mod (...) There are duals available for under $20 up to over $40 just buy the cheapest

No please don't! There are so many fake mods floating around. You could even get clone PCBs of the Eleaf Pico for less than $10 on fasttech at some point. These clones have lower quality boards, lower quality parts and some lack protections. Their firmware is most often not updatable etc.

Plus these Joyetech mods are dirt cheap in the first place. Talking about fasttech, you can find them for about the same price but they are genuine. Just make sure that the product title says "authentic" and it's the real-deal. Any product lacking that word or having the adjective "styled" is a clone.


A quick question please.... Is the new firmware from the Tubo would work with the Evic Mini and the I-Heat? Is it a true upgrade?

@KeroZen did you still downloaded this upgrade? did it help for TC mode and I-heat?

Yes, most definitely. I use ArticFox myself instead but the tuboevic firmware is pretty good too.

Still as I said, it will be finicky and have some quirks, but it's already night and day compared to the stock TC implementation in Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf mods. Make sure to enable the PI(D) algo though.
 
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little maggie

Well-Known Member
I have a mod question specific to the iheat. I know there are several threads about best mods to buy. But I am a non techy who wouldn't even know what a mod is if not for my tubo and I'm not 100% sure what part of the tubo is the mod. There's a reason why all my vapes are hand made wood. So I'd like a recommendation for- not the best mod-but the simplest and easiest to use mod. I just want to set it and leave it alone.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I have a mod question specific to the iheat. I know there are several threads about best mods to buy. But I am a non techy who wouldn't even know what a mod is if not for my tubo and I'm not 100% sure what part of the tubo is the mod. There's a reason why all my vapes are hand made wood. So I'd like a recommendation for- not the best mod-but the simplest and easiest to use mod. I just want to set it and leave it alone.

Just get an Evic Mini, the digital box side of your Tubo is the mod/evic. Then use his software with both iHeat and Splinter and you'll have no trouble at all! Someone mentioned it in the Splinter thread for you I think too, seems like the best option for keeping things simple and I may do the same myself! (unless I go dual batteries)
 
Shit Snacks,

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
I'm not a water guy, so I can't comment on that, but I've been using the iHeat for a few months now, and I do agree that lots of hot air will irritate, but there is so much control here, shouldn't that be an easily handled issue between adjusting wattage and improving technique with the device?
 

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Just get an Evic Mini, the digital box side of your Tubo is the mod/evic. Then use his software with both iHeat and Splinter and you'll have no trouble at all! Someone mentioned it in the Splinter thread for you I think too, seems like the best option for keeping things simple and I may do the same myself! (unless I go dual batteries)
What difference does dual batteries make? Anyway, I just checked and they are 60w and 75w. I'm not sure which to get and where to get one. I checked the joytech site but that didn't help.
 
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Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
I think we should put on the bottom of each 510 vape thread first post a set of mod recommandation

This being an un up to date wattage range and values for temperature controlled mod (plus a couple of entry level units to pair with), otherwise the whole thread will be asking and repeating the same info all over

Me first I am going to ask those questions as soon as I receive my unit (TC or tcr? value to set resistence for tcr mode?)

@Stu what do you think, could be possible for the owner to keep the edit window open?

@KeroZen i choose my wooden vapes almost exclusively in walnut; it tastes good when hot, even my charred walnut vapman smells like chocolate
 

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
Does anyone know what blackwood tastes like?

I do not know very well the answer. I had a vapcap stem in blackwood , now gone, it was quite neutral IIRC

One thing I noticed though, it was sweating some dark stuff where it was gettin hotter
Have also a solo wong out of blackwood, it sweated too at first uses and I kind dislike it because of this so no more blackwood for me near heat source

It does look magnificent though

Maybe @PPN could chime in about its smell, as his IH is black wood...

@KeroZen you are right about bamboo and maybe that is why it smells bad when hot
 
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Gray Area

Well-Known Member
I found my Blackwood solo stem pretty neutral, especially compared to the amboyna burl nano stem I have... you can really taste the wood with the amboyna...

I'll be going with Blackwood for mine :nod:
 

Summer

Long Island, NY
Maybe @phattpiggie & @Winegums could chime in about the blackwood flavor profile & the sweating. Take a look at the 3 last posts above this. Thanks!

Not dissing on @Ed's TnT, but considering he has a pregnant bride, 4 or 5(?) kids now & 1 on the way, a big house move shortly, a new workshop he's gonna have to set up & he's still gotta bring home the bacon to feed all those hungry mouths & make a mortgage payment. Geesh! :doh: Exhausts me just reading that line I typed. :lol:
 
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phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Summer when I turn BW it gives off a sweet nearly chocolate flavour, to me.
My VC stem has a small amount of it, similar to the one I sent you, and I've not noticed any taint.

Once there is a coating of reclaim in the BW it would taste less but you would never get an all wood stem clean and they develop a weed smell.
This is the reason I won't do pieces with out a full length condenser/sleeve.

@Andreaerdna the sweating is the natural oils coming to the surface of the wood, my stove has a BW handle and it is really bubbled.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Ah but the iHeat shell is very close to the heater and there's nothing to insulate it. If it sweats on the inside and on top of that there's never gonna be any reclaim build-up down there as it's on the air intake path not the vapor path, then I foresee similar problems... Hmmm...

I could use a glass stem for sure, but there's nothing I can do for the shell. That's one of the appeals of the Splinter / Milaana / Zion vs the iHeat / Lil'Bud, there's this glass sleeve inside. It might be fragile of course but it's not just there for decoration nor to rob heat away, it definitely has a purpose.

Plus as I said early in the Mi-Log thread, I think this large mass acts as a heat reservoir, a kind of buffer, and it smooths the temperature changes. It allows to release the trigger and keep drawing and drawing. Especially in the Zion where it's pretty obvious: the thing rolls like a train, you get half of your hits with the trigger released, and this is why despite being only voltage regulated, it feels like a very stable temperature regulation. Better than any of my TC mods actually, custom firmware or not.

Why would that be desirable you might ask? Well, as soon as you release the trigger the temperature only drops gently, it stops rising, so it's easier to regulate, you don't have a up down up down yo-yo temperature wave to ride, you just climb up to the right temperature then let it cool down, once per hit. In the MVT for instance which has a much lighter heater I have to feather the trigger on and off several times per hit and I find it harder to regulate (contrary to what other users report surprisingly)

It's easier to focus on not missing the target (the highest temperature point you want to reach) just once, than having to focus on not missing it several times per hit.
 
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
You did well. I said blackwood because it's so beautiful but I had no idea it could sweat like that (although I heard before it was quite oily)

I also knew @phattpiggie's stems were isolated from the vapor by the condenser etc. This is clearly a problem with wooden stems: like old school pipes you can't really clean them. They develop a coating and mix with the smell of what you put inside but you can never get them pristine clean like boro or quartz.

In the end it tends to create a blend of all the strains you pass through. Some kind of hashy smell. Not bad but definitely not neutral.
 

Andreaerdna

If God is the answer, then the question is wrong
the sweating was the reason for me not to choose Blackwood (wich would have be magnificent over my all black smoant charon (received, it is hefty and looking “solid as Irak” :) , but I reckon i do not know anything about both mods and BW natural oils, just noticed them, maybe acetone bath removes them (i cleaned first sweat oils away with it)

Back on IH track
@KeroZen I kind of disagree about heat management, i mean an on demand vaporizer without a heat sink to preheat should be a lot easier to use

To my superficial look (differently from you I did not try any of those (yet) so my are speculations) this should be because:
1 you risk less to loose count when your vape is really on demand (counting is annoying and with heat sink you have both preheat and draw duration to count. while hitting you can taste/feel so you can learn. Preheat is only by counting)
2 inside the bowl you should have more heat gradient when you have a heat sink all around (meaning narrower tunneling and more need for stirring)
3 You need less power to deliver same heat (more autonomy with less stress on cells seems very good too)

If I may say, I understand you have a peculiar (extended and diluted) way to vape, meaning doing a lot of very small hits in series or until the bowl is spent, maybe this is why you seem more comfortable regulating that kind of vapes?

Anticipation for my unit is growing fast
 
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